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NARRATIVE 



LIFE, TRAVELS AND SUFFERINGS 



OF 



THOMAS ¥. SMITH: 



AN ACCOUNT OF HIS EARLY LIFE, ADOPTION BY THE 
GIPSYSj HIS TRAVELS DURING EIGHTEEN. VOY- 
AGES TO VARIOUS PARTS OF THE WORLD, DUR- 
ING WHICH HE WAS FIVE TIMES SHIP- 
WRECKED; THRICE ON A DESOLATE ISL- 
AND NEAR THE SOUTH POLE, ONCE ON 
THE COAST OF ENGLAND, AND ONCE 
ON THE COAST OF AFRICA. 



HE TOOK PART IN SEVERAL BATTLES ON THE COAST OF SPAIN AND PERU 
AND WITNESSED SEVERAL OTHERS; WAS ONCE TAKEN BY PI- 
RATES, FROM WHOM HE WAS PROVIDENTIALLY DELIVERED, 
PLACED IN A SMALL BOAT AND SET ADRIFT AT A GREAT 
DISTANCE FROM LAND, WITHOUT THE MEANS FOR CON- 
DUCTING- HER TO THE SHORE. — HE AFTERWARDS 
TOOK PART IN FOUR MINOR ENGAGEMENTS 
WITH SAVAGES NEAR NEW GUINEA. 



WRITTEN BY HIMSELF. 

BOSTON : 

PUBLISHED BY 

WM. C. HILL, 24 CORNHILL ; 

NEW-BEDFORD, THOMAS W. SMITH ; PORTSMOUTH, 
WM. B. LOWD ; EXETER, A. R. BROWN, 

Tzu. 







Entered according to an act of Congress, in the year 1544, by 

THOMAS W. SMITH, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. 



PREFACE. 



The Author has presumed to present the public his Biography, 
which contains an account of the various scenes, through which 
he has passed during thirty-five years of his life, in his voyages 
and travels in various parts of the world. In writing, he has been 
under the necessity of trusting wholly to memory, not having kept 
a Journal of his Adventures ; as the idea of their publication had 
not until recently occurred to him. 

As a writer, he claims no merit, not having been favored with 
le rudiments of a common English education ; but to the authen- 
ticity of his Narrative, he claims as a christian, from the intelligent 
and candid, their implicit confidence. He therefore presents it to 
the community as a series of incidents, which scarcely has its par- 
allel. 

Unadorned by the flowers of rhetoric, he leaves it to the reader, 
to judge of its merit or demerit. T. W. S. 

New-Bedford, Sept. 1, 1844. 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
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THE 



LIFE, TRAVELS AND SUFFERINGS 

OF 

THOMAS ¥. SMITH. 

CHAPTER I. 

The birth of the author — the early death of his father — he and his 
widowed mother are taken into her father's family — the author 
put out to service and deprived of education — his labors and suf- 
ferings while with Moore — his return home— is put out the se- 
cond time to a Mr. Miles — his cruel treatment while there— is 
induced by young Link to run away with him — they lodge in a 
gravel pit —are taken out by a company of Gipsys and carried 
to a cave in a wood — conversation with the Gipsys, and his 
adoption by them. 

I was horn of respectable parents in the neighbor- 
hood of Lewisham, County of Kent in England. My 
father's name was Alfred Smith, and he survived my 
birth only about three years. Death then came, and 
with its iron grasp, severed the ties of nature and 
love, which bound us together as a happy family ; and 
thus deprived me of the natural protector and guardian 
of my youth. 

My father's spirit took its flight 
To realms of joy and pure delight. 

My mother, being left destitute with a helpless babe, 
to the mercy of an unfriendly world, now took shelter 
beneath her parental roof. Her parents, although not 
in very favorable circumstances, did not hesitate to wel- 
come their own dear and unfortunate child to their 
paternal protection. 

I resided beneath my grandfather's hospitable roof 
five years, enjoying the productions of nature's bounty 
in proportion to our limited circumstances. 



6 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

As time rolled on I was sometimes sent to take care of 
the old gentleman's lambs to prevent them from getting 
into our neighbor's pasture. Another branch of my em- 
ployment was that of leading my grandmother to meet- 
ing or to any other place which her business or wishes 
called her. 

She became blind when my mother was a little girl. 
However, for many years, she performed the duties of 
her domestic circle with extreme exactness and discre- 
tion, to the astonishment of her family and neighbors. 

Ah ! poor woman ! It is with deep and painful 
emotions of heart, that I often recall to my recollection 
her fond parental caresses, which on me were so lav- 

ishlv bestowed. 

•/ 

I was now seven years of age, and it was thought 
advisable by my parents, that 1 should be put out to 
some place where I might be kept with more strict- 
ness, in order to prevent me from associating with wick- 
ed boys, whose influence in all probability would have 
destroyed the seeds of morality, which were carefully 
sown in my youthful heart by my pious mother. Ac- 
cordingly a place was procured. The day was appoint- 
ed for my departure, and my mother employed all pos- 
sible means to prepare me for it. This being the first 
time I was to leave my mother, it proved to be a severe 
trial. 1 found that I was now no longer to be indulged 
with a fond mother's care, no longer to be caressed by 
a tender and indulging grandmother. I expostulated 
with my parents to permit me to remain with them un- 
til I should finish my education, which I had .but 
just commenced. But s.ll my expostulations were 
in vain, as they deemed it expedient for my future 
welfare that 1 should become experimentally acquainted 
with labor in my young davs, in order that by its means 
I might obtain an honorable subsistence in after life. 
Poor misguided parents! Having themselves been depriv- 
ed of the inestimable blessing of education, they knew 
not the value of it in their offspring. This indeed was 
a great error, the magnitude cf which I shall ever de- 
plore. Had my parents allowed me to acquire a com- 
mon English education, I should have been qualified, 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 7 

in some degree, to become a useful member of society, 
and in all probability it would have had a great influence 
in preventing me from wandering away from them and 
would have prevented the final separation,, which subse- 
quently took place between us. 

All things being now T ready, I took my departure in 
company with my mother, with a tremulous heart and 
weeping eyes, for my new master's house. My mas- 
ter, Mr. Edward Moore, instructed me how to perform 
the various duties of my office, which was that of an 
errand-boy. He was a man in comfortable circum- 
stances in life. His family consisted of nine persons ; 
himself and wife, his sister and niece, his wife's mother 
and sister, and three domestics. As I was but a small 
boy my wages were small also, it being only one shil- 
ling per week. 

I had now been three weeks with Mr. Moore's 
family, during which time I had been to market several 
times with Mr. Moore, and had become acquainted with 
his usual places of trade. One morning he sent for me. 
On appearing before him he asked me if I thought my- 
self capable of going to market and purchasing such 
things as he should direct me. 1 answered in the af- 
firmative. Accordingly I was supplied with money and 
w T as sent with particular orders to purchase things and 
return with all possible dispatch. On my return he 
seemed to be well pleased with me, After that I w T as 
sent to market frequently. One morning on my return 
from market I put the change, which was left, on the ta- 
ble where I was accustomed to leave it. After Mr. 
Moore had done his breakfast he called for me as usual 
to give him an account of what I had bought. I went 
immediately to the table where I had left the change, 
took it up and gave it to Mr. Moore. When he 
examined the account he found that the money was de- 
ficient a shilling. I was at a loss to know what had 
become of it, as I was perfectly satisfied the change was 
correct when I left it on the table. Mr. Moore over- 
looked this misfortune of mine, but not without en- 
tertaining some suspicions of my honesty, as he plainly 
showed on another occasion. I entertained some suspi- 



8 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

cion of a middle aged woman, who had taken the place 
of a chamber-maid a week previous to the loss of the 
shilling. I saw her handling the money but did not men- 
tion it to Mr. Moore. Two or three days subsequent to 
this she desired me to accompany her a short dis- 
tance to see a lady, to whom she had some money to 
pay. Agreeably to her request I accompanied her to 
the place. — After passing a few compliments she handed 
over her money, and I was extremely surprised to see in 
her hand the identical shilling which I had lost from the 
table. The money was readily recognized by me in 
consequence of certain marks which it bore. 

Mr. Moore, notwithstanding the unfavorable condition 
in which I stood with him, still continued to send me 
to market, occasionally. 

A week subsequent to the transaction taking place, I 
gave Mr. Moore as usual the change, which was left. 
When he examined it, it was found deficient a six-pence. 
I did not know what to say or do. I well knew 
that the change was correct, when I left it on the table. 
However, Mr. Moore did not say much to me, but I 
perceived by his stern countenance that he was dis- 
pleased. 

About this time Mrs. Moore's mother and sister leas- 
ed a tenement and I was employed in removing such 
things as I could well manage, for which services the 
old lady rewarded me with a silver shilling. The morn- 
ing following I was agafn sent to the market and again 
the change was found deficient a few pence. Mr. 
Moore at this time unwisely let loose the arrow of his 
ungovernable passion, saying that I was a little rogue 
and threatened me severely. I went from him trem- 
bling and weeping over my innocent misfortune. 

It so happened that my mother came to visit me on 
the following day. I was highly gratified on seeing the 
object of my tenderest affection. I informed her of my 
misfortune and the causes of the same and thus gave re- 
lief to my dejected spirits. Soon as it was ascertained 
that my mother was in the house, Mrs. Moore came 
in to see her. After passing the usual compliments 
Mrs. Moore very politely invited her to go up stairs. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. y 

Shortly I was sent for to appear before them. As soon 
as 1 appeared my mother requested me to give them the 
necessary information relative to the money, which had 
been lost. I related the whole as well as my ability 
would permit. Mrs. Moore was greatly surprised at my 
disclosure, but still entertained some doubts, as may 
plainly be seen by the following question. She inquired 
of me how I had come in possession of the shilling, 
which I then had in my possession. I informed her, 
that her mother had the goodness to give it to me, and 
the old lady being present testified to the fact, Here 
the matter was suffered to rest. Sometime subsequent 
to this, Mr. Moore called for me to bring him fire to 
light his pipe. I did not hear in consequence of being 
in the garden. One of the domestics informed me of it 
and immediately I obeyed the command. On appear- 
ing before him he inquired where I had been and the 
cause of iny delay. I gave him a reasonable answer. 
He appeared to be very much out of temper. He took 
the fire, lit his pipe, and as I turned to go from him, he 
kicked me severely saying "there you little rogue, away 
with you and be more attentive for the future." 

This ill treatment without any provocation, was more 
than I could possibly endure, and I immediately quit his 
house, leaving my wearing apparel behind. I soon ar- 
rived at my parents' humble dwelling where I was re- 
ceived with joy and some surprise. After communicat- 
ing to my mother the cause of my departure from Mr. 
Moore's family, she very much approved of my resolu- 
tion. During my residence with Mr. Moore he was so 
generous as to present me with a suit of summer clothes. 

Thus ended my first service for a man who looked 
suspiciously on me, and who treated me unhandsomely 
without making the least effort to ascertain the truth by 
which he might have imparted justice where justice was 
due. 

I was next put out to one Mr. Miles, a twine-spinner 
by trade. He was a man of dark complexion, high 
cheek bones, sunken eyes and stern countenance. His 
appearance made a very unfavorable impression on my 
mind. This was my first effort in physiognomy. I was 
2 



10 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

not, however in the least mistaken. He proved out by 
his unmanly and inhuman behavior, all the rascality, 
which was depicted in his countenance. My employ- 
ment was to turn the spinning wheel, for which toilsome 
labor I was compensated with my board and \8d. per 
week. For the first week things went on smoothly. 
One winter's morning, (I have the greatest imaginable 
reason ever to remember that unlucky day,) as we were 
going to our work I had the misfortune to fall in the 
street, by which I skinned the palm of my hand, and 
thus inflicted a severe wound, which partly deprived me 
of the use of it. The following morning my hand felt 
very stiff and painful, in consequence of the cold having 
got into the wound, which had not been dressed since 
its infliction. Mr. Miles requested me to go to my usu- 
al labor. I informed him that it would be entirely im- 
possible for me to turn the wheel with one hand, and 1 
could not use the other very well. His reply was, '17/ 
make you turn it with the devil to you, you little lazy 
dog" I found there was no possible means of avoiding 
it, and therefore reluctantly proceeded with Mr. Miles 
to my avocation. We commenced our day's labor and 
every thing went on with the usual tranquillity with 
the exception of my hand, which was very painful. 
While I was in the act of taking the thread off the hook 
it slipped from my hand. Mr. Miles was very much 
exasperated. However, he did not, at this time lay his 
hand on me, but threatened that if ever I permitted the 
like to occur again he would certainly chastise me with 
the greatest severity. This threat greatly agitated me. 
I trembled with fear. I sighed for my parents and be- 
wailed my sad fate. Yet 1 found no relief; no arm to 
protect ; no parental bosom on which to recline. My 
spirits were depressed and I fell into a state of despon- 
dency. 

The hour soon arrived when I was to feel the full 
weight of Mr. Miles' denunciation and resentment. The 
wheel line gave way, which was rather old and very 
much the worse for wear. This disaster exasperated his 
unreasonable mind and in a great measure prepared him 
to execute his previous threat. He soon repaired the 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 11 

Injury which was done, amid volleys of imprecations, 
which proceeded from his polluted mouth. I trembled 
exceedingly, as I was not accustomed to hear such pro- 
fane language. The wheel-line being now'repaired we 
again commenced spinning. My hands by this time 
had become so numb as to be incapable of holding any- 
thing between my fingers. The thread was now to be 
taken off and I left the crank with that intention : when 
on stepping over the stand which supported the wheel 
I stumbled over it and fell on my face and hands, the 
result of which was a cut-lip and a bloody nose, at 
which I was very much alarmed, having never before met 
with such a disaster. I bled freely. Mr. Miles, whose 
passion had not yet abated, now lustily cried out while 
I was endeavoring to wipe off the blood : " make 
haste you little rascal, and take off the thread." I en- 
deavored to obey his command but in vain ; his passion 
raged and he got there before me. This unreasonable 
man now gave vent to all the springs of his malicious 
passion. He executed his previous denunciation by treat- 
ing me in the most brutal and inhuman manner. This 
cruel monster beat me with such severity that the bruises 
were plainly to be seen two months after their infliction. 
I did not leave Mr. Miles at this time in consequence of 
the great distance which separated my parents from me. 
I therefore was obliged to endure all the abuse, which 
he thought proper to heap upon me. During the time 
of my residence with him I had become acquainted 
with a boy who lived at a little distance, with a Mr. West, 
a green grocer. This unfortunate boy's name was John 
Link. He was from twelve to thirteen years of age. 
He was an artful and fearless boy, and was also shame- 
fully ill treated. We were in the habit of meeting in the 
evening, and mutually communicating our feelings. 
Things with us went on well for a while. One evening 
after returning from work, Mrs. Miles sent me of an 
errand. It was to get a pound of butter. 1 bought it 
and was returning home with all possible speed, when 
squezing through the crowd in the street 1 was pushed 
down ; the butter fell from my hand, and before it could 
be recovered it was trodden under foot by the busy 



12 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

crowd. I ran home crying mournfully and related my 
misfortune to Mrs. Miles. As soon as she heard it, she 
rose from the chair with her hands uplifted loudly 
exclaiming : " Oh ! you careless little villian ! I will 
teach you how to be more careful for the future." 
So saying she took the broom and struck me on my 
shoulders and head several times. So severe were her 
blows, that she raised, several bumps on my head. Af- 
ter this John Link and I met at the usual place to re- 
late our misfortunes to each other. He informed me 
that Mr. West had unmercifully whipped him. He 
stated that he had resolved to leave and seek his 
fortune elsewhere. I inquired of him where he intend- 
ed to go. He said he was going to Dartford, a prosper- 
ous village with a population of ten thousand inhabitants, 
situated ten miles from Lewisham and fourteen from 
Bury St. Edmunds, the place where we then resided. I 
interrogated him respecting his motive for going at such 
a distance from his home. His answer was to this effect, 
" I am determined to go some where, where it will be 
impossible for my parents to find me." " For," con- 
tinued he, " it is of no use for me to go home ; they 
will put me out again — they take all my wages and 
spend it for gin, and I am obliged to go bare-footed in 
consequence of it." I enquired of him how he could 
go to Dartford without money. His answer was, that 
he was going to ask Mr. West for permission to go and 
see his parents and for his wages to take home to his 
mother the amount of which would be Is. which he 
thought would be sufficient to sustain him until he could 
find employment. 

After Link had disclosed the whole of his plan, he 
advised me to adopt it in every respect and accompany 
him. I withstood him some time. I stated that our 
money, provided we should succeed in getting it, was 
not sufficient to pay the stage fare and support us if we 
should be so unfortunate as not to find a place imme- 
diately after our arrival there. " As for the stage fare ? " 
said he, " we need not pay any thing. All we have 
to do is to get every thing ready and when the stage 
passes we will jump up behind it and hang on as far as 
it will carry us on our road." 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 13 

After I had fully considered my condition, I came to 
the conclusion, that if I must labor far from home, I 
would endeavor to find a situation, where I should be 
used more humanely than I had been hitherto. 

Next evening Link and I met again, and I informed 
him, that I hr.d formed the resolution to adopt his plan 
in every respect. The- following Saturday was the day 
agreed upon to ask for our money and permission to 
visit our parents, and we put our resolution into prac- 
tice and fortunately succeeded in our undertaking. Next 
morning we commenced our journey, it being Sabbath 
day. We traveled with our little bundles over our 
shoulders to the bank of Blackheath Pond, which was 
six miles distance from the place of departure. Here 
we sat down to rest our weaned limbs and eat our scanty 
meal, which consisted of dry bread, having had the pre- 
caution to provide ourselves each with a three-penny 
loaf. 

Blackheath is situated on the south of Greenwich 
Park, from which it is separated by a handsome built, 
brick wall, which incloses the Park. This heath con- 
tains some hundred acres of land and is covered with the 
shrub called black-heath, from which it derives its name. 
It is also noted for its celebrated race ground. It is a sum- 
mer rendezvous for the Gipsys who spread their tents in 
that delightful spot. 

We traveled until after the sun had gone down, and we 
had not as yet arrived at any habita f ion, where we could 
obtain a shelter from the chilling winds of night. We were 
very much fatigued and felt solicitous to obtain some place 
where we could rest our wearied limbs, having travelled 
ten miles, a distance which we had never walked before. 
We continued our journey until we came to the side of a 
hill where we found a gravel-pit, in which notwithstanding 
the severity of the cold, we took up our lodgings for the 
night. But neither the severity of the weather 
nor the weariness of our stiff limbs had the least 
tendency to deprive us of the enjoyment of a sweet re- 
pose. We had not been many hours enjoying our sandy 
bed when we were awakened by a loud noise, like the 
barking or growling of dogs. On arousing we were very 



14 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

much surprised at seeing before us four large English 
mastiffs, by which we were so frightened, that we hard- 
ly dare move or breathe. Presently we saw two men 
coming toward us. 

' Hallo,' says one, ' what is here ?' They approached 
us. The dogs stood by them wagging their tails ; now 
looking at us and then at their masters, as if they were 
waiting for the word of command to seize us, as their 
prey. After they had strictly examined us they with- 
drew a short distance and held a consultation for a ^ew 
minutes and returned saying : " come, my little boys, 
you must go with us and we will take you to a place 
where you may sleep comfortably and free from all 
danger." 

We immediately complied with their request having 
no inclination to do otherwise. We travelled on the 
highway about a quarter of a mile and then we turned 
into a lane and proceeded to the north. In this lane we 
met the third man, who also was of the company, with 
two dogs and an ass. We travelled from one lane into 
another, a distance of four or five miles, until we arrived 
at the base of a high and spacious hill, whose sides were 
covered with thick and lofty woods. We entered the 
woods and travelled in a zigzag manner toward the sum- 
mit of the hill, which was crowned with a high, strong, 
and ancient castle, whose blackened and terrific wall be- 
spoke to its observer the days ot William the Conquer- 
or. We proceeded until we arrived to the north side of 
the hill, which was secluded from society. Here we 
came in contact with the perpendicular side of the hill, 
which w r as very thickly inclosed with the stately oak 
and majestic elm. We continued travelling along by 
the side of this precipice the distance of tw r o hundred 
yards. We then approached two immense lofty and 
stately oaks, whose boughs and leafless branches inter- 
mitted ; and as they partly rested on the side of the hill, 
formed a most beautiful inclosure, into which we were 
led by our conductors. This inclosure being forty or 
fifty feet in length led us to the side of the hill, in which 
was a gap, about eight feet in breadth, which ushered 
us into a capacious cavern, which had the appearance of 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 15 

having been made by human hands. It was hid from 
view by the immense boughs, by which it was overhung. 
It was between two and three o'clock in the morning 
when we were introduced into our new habitation. We 
were then led in the dark to a heap of straw and com- 
manded to lie down and rest. Presently one of the men 
came and covered us over with a couple of blankets. 
We soon fell into a sound sleep in which we buried for 
a few hours the toils and anxieties which we had endur- 
ed the preceding day. When we awoke from our sleep, 
in the morning we found ourselves in a dark and se- 
questered cavern. On looking around me I beheld 
three brownish, robust, good looking females, whose 
countenances bespoke the enjoyment of health and vigor 
of life, two small children, and the three men who 
had conducted us thither. Near the mouth of the 
cavern were three asses and six dogs. These con- 
stituted the whole number of inmates and domestic ani- 
mals of our new habitation. 

When breakfast was ready we were invited to set by 
a good turf-fire and participate with them of an excellent 
repast, which the women had prepared of good lamb- 
chop, — which I presume was stolen the previous night 
— a good cup of coffee, some boiled potatoes and bread, 
However, we made an excellent breakfast. 

After we had participated of their repast, one of the 
men, who was frequently addressed by the members of 
the company by the appellation of Mr. Jack and whom 
we subsequently ascertained to be the captain of the 
company, interrogated us respecting cur parentage, the 
place of our nativity, the cause of cur leaving home, 
and the place of our intended destination. We answer- 
ed every question with honest simplicity to the admira- 
tion and satisfaction of the company. As soon as we 
had accomplished our recital, one of these brawny queens 
of the forest took me into her lap and expressed her 
sympathy. She addressed Mr. Jack, her husband, to 
the following purpose : "It is my ardent and sincere 
desire to adopt this little boy, for you know, Mr. Jack, 
he will be company, beside being useful to us for many 
purposes as we travel through the country." Mr. Jack 



16 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

then addressed me gruffly, saying ; " Well, my little 
man, you have heard what the lady has said ; she wish- 
es you to stay with us, and go where we go. What say 
you ; will you stay ? We will treat you with parental 
kindness, and you shall have plenty to eat, and that ot 
the best which the land can afford, and but little to do ; 
besides, you will see new places very often, and shall also 
ride on my 'Arabian,' (meaning his ass,) to every place 
where we may go." These fascinating inducements, so 
artfully presented to my young and tender mind, shone 
with such sparkling lustre before my eyes, that I found 
it impossible to resist their proposals, and therefore 1 was 
readily induced to acquiesce. Link had a similar offer 
made to h«m by one of the other females ; and he very 
readily acquiesced. 

This female who adopted Link had a beautiful babe, 
of two years of age, and Link was occasionally to take 
care of it, while she went in company with the other 
women to the neighboring villages vo impose on the hon- 
est credulity of the villagers by pretending to tell for- 
tunes. 

This science of fortune-telling, which these queens of 
the forest pretended to possess, is a means, to which 
they have cunningly resorted to obtain an easy liveli- 
hood by imposing on the credulous and ignorant mass of 
the more ' refined' part of society. 

By this time Link, who was an artful boy, began to en- 
tertain suspicions, that we had fallen among Gipsys and 
attempted to inform me of it by a whisper, but was 
heard by one of the men who accosted him thus ; ' Yes 
my boy, you are right ; we are jolly Gipsys, sons of 
liberty, who are not confined to one particular place 
by relatives, houses or any thing of an earthly nature. We 
go here, and there, and everywhere, and are like the 
eagle, which is a bird of liberty and flies wherever it 
sees its prey. Is not this a better way to live than to 
be confined to a master and be whipped like a slave, in 
the same manner that you have been?' pointing to us. 
" We do not intend to whip you or injure you in any 
degree whatsoever. And now since you have consent- 
ed to stay with us, boys, you must be baptised in order 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 17 

to become a Gipsy." So saying, he got a bottle of gin 
and said ; " now boys, you must say after me, c I will be a 
Gipsy ; I shall be a Gipsy and a son of the forest.'" 
So saying, he sprinkled some gin on our heads, saying ; 
" there boys, you are become the sons of liberty ! Now 
you must shake hands with all the company." So they 
all shook hands with us and hailed us as jolly young 
Gipsys. It was now near mid-day, and Mr. Jack took 
us 7 out of the cavern. ( There/ said he, c do you know 
nhere you are ?' ' No,' we replied. And how could we 
know ? We saw not any thing before us but a thicket ; 
nor over us but the intermingled boughs and branches of 
the high and proud English oak, and the majestic elm, 
which obscured the view of the blue sky. ' Here,' con- 
tinued he, ' are a plenty of rabbits and foxes that will at- 
tack you and bite you to death if you should happen to 
stray away alone in the woods.' This was said to in- 
timidate us, that we might not stray away from the 
cavern, and we being credulous very readily credited it. 
Link and I had now to undergo a daily operation, and 
that was to be washed with walnut-water every day in 
order to tan our skins brown. This was deemed neces- 
sary in order to appear Gipsy-like, a brown skin being 
their uniform. 



18 LIFE AND TRAVELS 



CHAPTER Iff. 

Departure from the cavern — travels with the Gipsys ; description of 
places ; description of a body of smugglers and their galleys; the 
condition of the common classes of societv ; the cause of smug- 
gling in England ; encamps at Eochester city; visits to the 
Sun-tap ; cultivates an acquaintance with Willie the sailor-boy; 
conversation with a sea-captain ; induced to go a voyage to 
North Shields ; absconds from the Gipsys ; character and habits 
of these singular people. 

We resided with this company of Gipsys in their win- 
ter retreat for nearly three months, during which time 
we were well supplied with every kind of provision. 

Early in the spring the company commenced active 
operations in providing suitable necessaries of life for the 
ensuing year. Accordingly the necessary arrangements 
were made for our departure. Every thing which was 
deemed unserviceable for us in our travels, was carefully 
deposited in the side of the hill, in a place which they 
had previously excavated to conceal such things as they 
unlawfully possessed. Accordingly each man, with his 
family and animals, was to travel a half day's journey 
from the other. This was cunningly devised to prevent 
the attention of the public being attracted by us, which 
evidently would have been the case, had the whole of 
the company traveled together. We were to travel in 
this manner towards a particular place in the vicinity of 
Maidstone, where we were all to meet and pitch our 
tents at half a mile's distance from each other. This 
was done to divide the distance equally, for the purpose 
of affording equal conveniences for all to visit and assist 
each other and to prevent the possibility of public suspi- 
cion. Mr. Jack and his family were the last that left the 
cavern. We traveled 15 miles that day through lanes 
and by-roads, seldom traveling on the high-way. Short- 
ly after the sun had descended beneath the western 
horizon, we pitched our little tent in a lane. Next 
morning we took down the tent and again resumed our 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 19 

journey. We traveled on the highway, passing villages 
and beautiful fields on the right and left. I could not 
help admiring the beauty of the scenery. We arrived 
at the place of our destination, pitched our tent, took 
supper and soon retired to rest on a bag of straw, lying 
on the ground, where I slept as soundly as if I had 
reposed on a bed of down. My foster parents' bed 
consisted of canvas, stretched on four sticks, which 
were driven into the ground for the purpose. 

Next morning I was the first member of the family 
that rose to behold the beautiful town of Maidstone, 
which lay spread out on the plain below. We resided 
in the vicinity of Maidstone several weeks, fully enjoy- 
ing the comforts which a Gipsy's life imparts. Our 
employment during our residence here chiefly consisted 
in telling the fortunes of those, who came to us from 
the town for that purpose, a custom which is very pre- 
valent in England. 

The credulous individual whose fortune is told rewards 
the fortune-teller with a shilling, as an equivalent. 

During the time of our residence here, Link and I had 
frequent interviews, in one of which he informed me 
that he was highly pleased with his new mode of living. 
I sincerely concured with him. And well we might be 
highly pleased. Our living was good and the usage 
still better, having little or nothing to do, but to catch 
rabbits and other game, when opportunity offered. 

After we had resided here for some weeks, and our 
fortune-telling business becoming rather dull, it was 
deemed^expedient by the company to leave the place and 
proceed to our cavern by a circuitous route, which would 
enable us to pass through a number of villages before 
reaching our rustic home. 

Accordingly we proceeded on our journey, adopting 
the same method as in our previous travels to Maidstone. 
We encamped in the course of our journey in the vicin- 
ity of many large and beautiful villages, whose honest, 
industrious and credulous inhabitants visited us daily 
during our stay to learn their fortunes. At last, after an 
absence of three months, during which we had traveled 
oyer one half of the county, we arrived at our seques- 



20 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

tered cavern, which was hid in the brow of Shutes' 
Hill. Here the company once more united and merri- 
ly spent their time in harmless carousal. After a few 
days spent in this manner, and having deposited in the 
hidden cells such things as remained, we made prepara- 
tions for another journey. 

It was agreed by the company, that Margate was now 
the place of our destination. This being a town of high 
celebiity for the resort of the London nobility in the sum- 
mer season. Thither, thousands resort to enjoy the ben- 
efit of the sea air, and others the refreshing luxury of a 
salt-water bath. It was thought by the company that 
this journey would prove highly favorable, notwithstand- 
ing the great distance we had to go, which was 60 or 
70 miles. Accordingly we proceeded on our journey, 
traveling at the rate often miles per day, passing by and 
through many pleasant villages and cities. We passed 
through Dartford, Rochester city, Milton and Fevers- 
ham. 

The reader will doubtless remember that Dartford 
was the place of our intended destination when we were 
found in the gravel pit by Mr. Jack and his companions. 
While passing through the village Mr. Jack addressing 
me by my new appellation said : " Wei!, young Jack, 
this is the great and beautiful village of Dartford, where 
you was going when I found you in the gravel pit. Do 
you wish to stay here now without any friends to take 
care of you." I informed him that I had no desire to 
stay there or any other place, but wished to go with them 
to Margate or any other place where they might go ; so 
strong was my inclination for traveling and seeing new 
objects. 

The next place we came to, of any note, was Roch- 
ester city. We passed through and encamped on the 
green in the south-east part. After having rested for the 
night we proceeded on our journey toward the town of 
Milton, sometimes traveling in the night, at others by 
da/. We passed through Milton in the night. Next 
day we encamped in the vicinity of Feversham and spent 
the night there. We again took up sticks and continued 
our progress, passing through the south part of the city 




OF THOMAS W SMITH. 21 

early in the morning. Next evening we encamped at a 
late hour on the south of the village of Heam. Our 
next place was St. Nicholas, where we spent part of a 
a day and night. We left it at night and proceeded 
toward Margate where we arrived on the following after- 
noon. We pitched our tent near the shore, about a 
quarter of a mile's distance from the baths. On our 
arrival at Margate we again united with our company, 
who had encamped a quarter of a mile's distance from 
us. In Margate we spent the whole of the summer, 
during which, we were constantly visited by the Lon- 
doners, who daily arrived in the place, and we were al- 
so indulged with the friendly visits of the citizens. 

During our residence at Margate Link and I participa- 
ted in all the enjoyments which a Gipsys rural life would 
afford. 

As the fall of the year came on, the visits of the 
Londoners were over, and it was deemed advisable by 
the company to return toward the city of Rochester, 
where we encamped a few days, after which we remov- 
ed to the vicinity of Dartford and Erith, where we 
were to commence rapid foraging operations, to provide 
resources for the subsistence of the company during the 
winter season, which was now approaching. The clay 
previous to our departure from Margate, a transaction 
occurred which I cannot refrain from relating. It was 
about two hours before sunset; we were intensely en- 
gaged in viewing the beauiiful sea-gulls, sportingly flap- 
ping their wings against the elastic elements and swiftly 
gliding over the bosom of the limpid, briny deep, when 
we beheld four long black galleys, swiftly lowing toward 
the spot which we occupied. The rowers were toiling 
vehemently to e;ain the place of their destination. While 
contemplating what these galleys might be, we observed 
just over the bank as many as a hundred armed men 
and others coming toward us and soon they stood by us. 
"Come," said they, "Gipsys, if you don't wish to 
get into trouble, you had better take up your sticks and 
start quickly." We did not know what to make of it 
and therefore did not hurry ourselves. The galleys had 
by this time reached the shore and were actually landing, 



m 



22 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

when unexpectedly we heard aloud cry among the men, 
•'* to arms ! to arms !" " the blockade men ; the block- 
ade men ! ' - Quickly about one hundred of the men, 
who were armed with muskets, advanced a quarter of a 
mile's distance toward the blockade men, who wore red 
coats. They were the marines of the station who had 
been watching the galleys as they approached the shore 
and whom they well knew to be smugglers, and there- 
fore came to prevent them from landing their goods, or 
to seize ihem and their goods if it were possible. But 
finding themselves opposed by a superior force they 
were obliged to keep at a respectful distance where they 
endeavored to terrify the smugglers by pouring a deadly 
fire upon them. But in this they were mistaken. — 
These men were not so easily terrified as they had im- 
agined. Having their fortunes and liberties at stake, 
they were resolved to protect their property and main- 
tain their liberties at the hazard of their lives. The 
blockade men's fire therefore was speedily and contin- 
ually returned. During the time that the fighting party 
were engaged in their bloody conflict, there were a hun- 
dred men conveying the goods away into the country, 
out of danger ; and the boatmen, who were over seven- 
ty in number, were engaged in landing their freights, 
which consisted of silks and laces worth thousands of 
pounds. 

As soon as the goods were landed, the boatmen took 
to their boats and away they went speedily from us. — 
Each of .th ese galleys had 18 oars ; they were low and 
narrow, their length being from forty to forty-five feet, 
while their extreme breadth did not exceed seven feet. 
I have since had the pleasure of seeing a number of 
those boats, and have been informed that they are built 
for the special purpose of smuggling, and will row over 
to France, in smooth weather, in two hours, the distance 
being 21 miles. By this time the sun had descended 
beneath the western hills, and night had spread her dark 
and gloomy mantle over us. The blockade men had 
been severely repulsed, the property protected and safely 
conducted to the place of its destination. On the fol- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 23 

lowing day it was currently rumored that several men of 
both parties had been severely wounded. 

Occurrences like this frequently take place in the 
County of Kent. It is proverbially said that the Kent- 
ish men are all smugglers. The practice of smuggling 
is more extensively carried on in Kent than in any other 
county in England, and no one who is well informed, 
can possibly deny it. This state of things in England 
grows out of tie extreme poverty and sufferings of the 
lower class of the people, who are crashed to the earth 
by heavy taxation, imposed by the government to sup- 
port a titled aristocracy, and pay the interest of the 
enormous national d»bt, incurred in her career of war 
and oppression. The sufferings of the poor and the 
injustice of the law afford the only ground on which 
smuggling can be justified. 

We took our departure from Margate late in the after- 
noon, retracing our former steps until we arrived at 
Rochester Green, where we pitched our tent with a de- 
sign to remain a week. The family to which Link was 
attached pitched their tent on the other side of the river, 
near the foot of the bridge, it being a favorable position 
for business. The other family pitched their tent down 
toward Chatham. 

On the day after our arrival at Rochester, Mrs. Jack 
took her cards as usual and went into the city to seek 
employment. She returned in the evening highly grat- 
ified with her day's work. This she evidently proved 
by taking a handful of silver from her pocket, to the 
amount of twenty shillings. Mr. Jack was extravagant- 
ly pleased at the sight of the money. He was de- 
sirous of knowing where she had been to meet w T itb 
such remarkable luck. She then informed him that 
having accidently observed some sailors and their wives 
going into a public house by the waterside, and think- 
ing that she might there possibly meet with a chance to 
display her skill, she followed them in. On entering 
the Tap Room she beheld forty or fifty men and women 
who were in extravagant carousal. Approaching a 
young woman, w 7 ho was one of the party she addressed 
her in the following manner : " Will you have your for- 



24 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

tune told ?" To which she replied in the affirmative. 
This was some encouragement to her and prepared the 
way for others. She soon ascertained that there was 
sufficient employment to last her for that day. 

JMi*. and Mrs. Jack, seeing that there was a prospect 
of doing a good business for some length of time resolv- 
ed to stay at Rochester as long as business continued 
favorable. They also deemed it advisable to adopt a 
new plan, by which to derive some income. It was 
this. They were to boil some shrimps and I was to 
be the merchant. 1 was to accompany her with these 
things in a basket, into every public house, to find cus- 
tomers for my merchandise. The plan was accordingly 
put into execution, and on the following morning we 
proceeded to the Sun-tap, this beingthe place where she 
had met with such remarkable good fortune the prece- 
ding clay. We arrived there and I soon sold out my 
merchandise to the ladies and sailors. She was very 
soon employed by them and made a tolerable good day's 
work. 

During our stay here, my attention was attracted by 
the ship-boats-, which frequently came to land the sailors 
on shore, into which I delighted to enter and play with 
the sailor boys, after I had disposed of my merchandise. 
My inclination for playing in those boats daily increased, 
and 1 embraced every opportunity to indulge this pro- 
pensity. A short distance from the Sun-tap was a jetty- 
head where small vessels discharged their cargoes of coal, 
and there were generally two or three discharging at the 
same time. These vessels very much attracted my at- 
tention and I became a frequent visitor on board. 

In consequence of my visits to the Sun-tap with Mrs. 
Jack, whom they took to be my mother, I became famil- 
iar with a number of the sailors who frequently resorted 
to this place, to indulge themselves with a pot of beer 
and a pipe of tobacco. Among them was a boy, who 
belonged to a small brig, lying at the jetty, loaded with 
coal. With him I became intimately acquainted and I 
was frequently invited to dine with him on the brig. — 
One day, after having disposed of my merchandise, I 
obtained permission of Mrs. Jack to visit my new friend 



OF THOMAS W- SMITH. 25 

on board of the vessel, and I went to see him with the 
intention of getting some biscuit and spending an hour 
in play. We met in a friendly manner and soon enga- 
ged in playing up and down the rigging. Although my 
young friend possessed considerable advantage over me, 
in consequence of being older and having sailed several 
voyages in the vessel, he could gain no advantage over 
me in climbimg up the rigging. This was observed by 
the captain, who stood on the ]etty near the vessel and 
cried out in the north country dialect : 'Hurra, Willie ! 
don't you let that land-lubber beat you now!' Having 
fully enjoyed ourselves, we finished our play and de- 
scended to the deck where we met the master of the 
vessel, who interrogated me respecting the place of my 
nativity and parentage. I imported all the requisite in- 
formation as far as my childish ability permitted me. 
The captain then enquired of me, if I should like to see 
my parents, to which I answered in the affirmative. 
He then asked me if I should like to go down to North 
Shields with him in his brig, as he was in need of a 
small boy to attend on the sailors. " If you go with 
me," continued he, " you will see your parents in about 
6 weeks, for I think that I shall have a freight for London 
by that time and then you can go and see your parents 
and come back to the brig if you like to stay with us." 
I informed him that I should like to go, but could not, 
for it was my opinion that Mr. and Mrs. Jack would not 
be willing to give consent. " As to their consent, it is 
of no consequence, but if you are willing to go J prom- 
ise you that they shall not find where you are. So," 
said he,, "you had butler make up your mind and go 
with me, and you and Willie can eat and sleep tcgether ; 
besides you will see so many new things which will in- 
terest your attention, and with which you will be highly 
pleased. You will see a great many ships, towns, vill- 
ages and thousands of fishes and birds of all kinds." 
These novelties and promises excited my youthful mind. 
My whole soul drank deeply of the fountain of joy that 
seemed open before me. I could rot resist the proposal. 
I agreed to sail with him in ths brig Venus, bound to 
North Shields. 

4 



26 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

On the following morning, at high water, the Venus 
hauled out into the stream and having got ready took 
the ebb tide, accompanied by a favorable breeze, which 
swelled the bosom of the lofty sails, as she gently glided 
down the river Med way This being the first time that 
I had ever sailed on ship-board, it produced a degree of 
excitement in my tender mind, which I could not easily 
govern. Every object on either side of the vessel at- 
tracted my attention and I ran from side to side, gazing, 
unwilling that any object should escape my eager eye, 
which I find is never satisfied with seeing. Ah 1 inno- 
cent child ! Little did I think that I was then laying 
the foundation of my subsequent sufferings on the ocean. 
I then looked over the stern of the vessel, toward the 
Sun-tap, as if unwilling to leave or lose sight of the spot, 
where I had left Mrs. Jack, and if possible to catch a 
glance of the tent on the green, to which I had so long 
been attached and under which I had so often indulged 
the repose, which nature demands. But it was in vain ; 
I could not distinguish one place from another. I could 
not help at this moment reflecting with a degree of ten- 
der feeling on the condition of my foster parents, whom 
I had left behind me to mourn my unknown fate. These 
remarkable wanderers had adopted me as their child ; 
at a time too when 1 stood most in need of a friend to 
console my young and drooping spirits ; and while I was 
with them watched over me with tender and parental 
affection. And is it too much to say that I left them to 
mourn over a lost child ? 

The English Gipsys are an uncultivated, tawny 
class of mendicants and fortune-tellers, who wander about 
the country during the warm season of the year, like 
the ancient Scythians, dwelling in tents. The fortune- 
telling is mostly done by the women, while the men en- 
gage in fishing and hunting for subsistence. They pay 
no taxes, acknowledge no superiors, and claim to be 
free. Though coarse in their manners and food, unre- 
fined and uneducated, they are in many respects a noble- 
hearted and generous people. They generally seclude 
themselves from public view in the winter season. This 
they do that they may more effectually enjoy their dis- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 27 

honest gain without detection. They choose some fa- 
vorable spot in the forests, where they generally provide 
themselves with a suitable hut. to shelter them from the 
inclemency of the weather; but when they cannot pro- 
vide a suitable place in the forest, they get in to some 
miserable hovel on the outskirts of some village and there 
spend the winter. Previous to the winter months they 
accumulate and deposit, in their huts, their winter's pro- 
vision, which chiefly consists of potatoes, barley and 
lamb. They obtain these articles chiefly from the far- 
mer's fields and flocks whenever an opportunity is pre- 
sented. Other necessaries of life with which they some- 
times indulge they purchase at the lowest rate. 



28 LIFE AND TRAVELS 



CHAPTER III. 

First voyage to sea in the brig Venus • arrival at Shields ; depar- 
ture ; comes to anchor near the Sands • driven on shore by a 
French lugger ; the logger leaves the vessel unmolested j hap- 
py congratulations; failure in getting the vessel off ; prepara- 
tions for the gale ■ discovery of her situation j the gale com- 
mences ; the crew take refuge in the vessel's tops ; sufferings 
during the gale ; termination of the gale ; loss of the vessel ; 
taken off from the wreck • arrives in the lower hope and comes 
to an anchor ; ships on board of the brig Paragon bound to 
Spain. 

The Venus, swiftly gliding with the rippling stream, 
passing beautiful prospects on either side of the river 
Medway, soon arrived at Sheerness, where laid a num- 
ber of the ships of the line, fitting for sea. 

I was struck with surprise at the beautiful prospect 
before me and gazed with admiration at those enormous 
ships, from whose mast-head waved in the breeze, the 
nation's imperial flag. We soon passed by and left 
behind us those elegant floating bulwarks of old Eng- 
land, which are her pride and glory. We steered our 
course for North Shields at which we arrived in a few 
days, the weather having proved favorable. 

Shields is the greatest place in the United Kingdoms 
for the production and exportation of coal. Its numer- 
ous and extensive coal mines, which extend for several 
miles beneath the ocean ; its beautiful and safe harbor, 
and the advantageous geographical position which it oc- 
cupies, imparts to it a laaing superiority over its competi- 
tors. In addition to this, she possesses some thousands 
of vessels, which are continually employed in the ex- 
portation of this valuable fuel. 

Four or five days had elapsed since our arrival at 
Shields, and the Venus was again ready to proceed on 
her destined voyage. She was again put to sea. We 
steered to the S. S. W., having the wind west and blow- 
ing a good top-gallant breeze. In a few days, by mak- 
ing short tacks in shore, we arrived opposite the town 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH- 29 

of Barton, three leagues in the offing and the same dis- 
tance from the mouth of the great Yarn outh river. 

It was the intention of our captain to hug the land as 
mu~h as possible in order to avoid being taken by the 
French luggers, which made frequent visits to our 
coast in foggy weather, and very frequently took or des- 
troyed our vessels. But in consequence of the wind 
heading two or three points off of our course we were 
obliged to sail without the sands which lie close into the 
land, and make short tacks in shore in order to keep up 
to the windward shore. Having been toiling for some 
days and the wind having become more unfavorable, and 
a dense and sleety fog setting in, the master deemed it 
advisable to come to an anchor under the lee of one of 
the sands, which lie three leagues off from the mouth of 
the great Yarmouth river. 

The third day had begun to dawn but the density of 
the fog had not as yet diminished in the least degree, 
and the fog-horns and ship bells still continued to sound 
in our ears. Among the several horns one was heard at 
various times, which appeared to draw near us, on the 
larboard side, in consequence of which it was deemed 
advisable to give the alarm, being apprehensive that the 
sound came from some vessel on the way, which proba- 
bly would run us down, did we not make our posi- 
tion known. Soon after having heard the fog-horn on 
our larboard side we heard in the same direction the 
alarming report of fire arms. This unfavorable omen 
very much alarmed our captain, who at the time was 
heard to say, that he was apprehensive of a French 
lugger being nigh. Soon the cry of " sail ho /" was 
heard on the forecastle. Every one on board was now 
anxious to know what had come. She was discovered 
by the mate, who looked through his spy glass, to be a 
large vessel of some kind. Soon the mariners caught 
sight of her ; and as she loomed up in the fog, they 
cried out, "it is a French lugger! it is a French 
lugger!! We are lost men!!" Our captain, who 
was then looking through his glass, soon appeased their 
fears, by informing them that he had ascertained it to be 
a boat with a large sail, steering towards us. In a few 



30 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

minutes they arrived along side. It proved to be a boat 
with four men, who had made their escape from a col- 
lier brig, which had been boarded by a French lugger, 
a short distance from us. The brig's crew had observed 
the lugger close to them stretching in shore across their 
stern in order to board them on the next tack, and had 
made their escape by taking to the boat. Some of the 
Frenchmen who had boarded the brig, on perceiving 
the boat, at a distance, fired at her, and that caused 
the report which was heard and gave us so much 
alarm. 

Our captain, having received this important informa- 
tion, immediately resolved not to be made a prisoner of 
war, but rather run the risk of losing the vessel. In a 
moment he cried out with a voice of thunder: "All 
hands loose sails." The sails being loosed and set 
in short time, the Venus was moving for the land under 
full sail. 

The lugger having boarded the brig and not finding 
any thing of consequence on board excepting coal, she 
destroyed the vessel. 

Our brig having previously been exposed to the lug- 
ger by the ringing of our bell and the sound of the fog- 
horn, she undoubtedly embraced the opportunity of tak- 
ing our bearings which undoubtedly proved beneficial to 
her as a guide to find us. 

The lugger having scuttled the other brig, as we 
supposed, immediately steered towards us under full sail, 
with an evident intention of making us her prize. Our 
captain being apprehensive of her design kept a con- 
stant look out for her on our weather quarter, this being 
the direction in which he expected to see her make her 
appearance. 

About three quarters of an hour after we slipped our 
anchor, our captain cried out : " There she comes boys, 
and we are lost." The hopes of escape which a few 
minutes before had lighted every countenance now in- 
stantly expired. The painful idea of being made pris- 
oners of war, of spending a number of years in a mis- 
erable French prison, was revolting to the mind and 
filled every heart with despondency. But there wac 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 31 

but one alternative ; either to run the vessel on shore 
and thus endanger our lives, or be taken by the lugger 
which was rapidly coming up with us. Our captain had 
the precaution to have our boat ready along side, in or- 
der to make our escape after having run her on shore, 
which was his premeditated plan, if no other possible 
means of escape presented itself to his mind. Our 
leadsman, who was continually employed in throwing 
the lead and giving us the sounding, now cried out : "by 
the mark, three." Our captain cried out : " port your 
helm, my boy, haul in your weather braces, my lads, 
quickly and let us run her on shore and save ourselves if 
possible." " Steady she goes, my boy/' cried our cap- 
tain. " Steady" responded the helmsman- Again the 
leadsman sung out : " under quarter, two." " Steady 
she goes," said our captain, and " she will be on shoie 
in five minutes." Soon she struck. 

The lugger had by this time begun to ascertain that 
she was a lessening the depth of her water ; she tacked 
about and stood out from the shore, being unable to pur- 
sue us any farther in safety. 

On seeing the lugger about, the captain command- 
ed all hands to the boats to be in readiness, to leave the 
vessel, in case the lugger should deem it proper to 
send her boat to destroy us. All hands having got into 
the boats excepting the captain, who kept a constant 
lookout with his spy-glass. The Frenchman apparently 
did not feel disposed to send his boat to finish our de- 
struction, seeing that we were already on shore and in 
in imminent danger. They seemed perfectly satisfied 
with our situation and therefore left us to make the best 
we could of our perilous case. Happy were we, when 
we heard the welcome news from our captain's lips : 
" She is gone, boys, come out of the boats !" 

Every countenance now shone with a hope, and eve- 
ry heart beat with joy. 

All hands were now employed in taking in the sails 
and sending down the top-gallant-masts and yards, to 
make the vessel snug and prepare for getting her off. 
This being done, the kedge anchor was taken out astern 
with great difficulty and the rope taken to the windlass 



32 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

and we hove on it, until it parted. By this time it had 
had become entirely dark. 

At 4 o'clock the watchman reported that the fog had 
totally disappeared and that the wind had considerably 
increased and that the sea was making a breach across 
the deck. 

This unwelcome news very much alarmed our cap- 
tain, who immediately came on deck and on observing 
the indications of a gathering storm which threatened us 
with immediate destruction, called all hands to send 
down the topsail-halyards and drop the top-sail. This 
was done to prevent the main-mast from going over- 
board, as the tops were now our only places of refuge in 
the storm. Having firmly secured all the spars, the 
captain advised the men to provide themselves with suf- 
ficient bread and water in the lops to sustain life during 
the trial which awaited us. 

It was now about S o'clock, A. M., the sun had risen 
and shone with unusual brightness on the white foaming 
billows, which surrounded and partly covered us at in- 
tervals. 

The weather being now perfectly clear, every eye on 
board was anxiously engaged in observing and endeavor- 
ing to discover our truly deplorable position and ascer- 
tain if there was any possible means, by which, we 
might be assisted and delivered from our perilous situ- 
ation. 

Our captain ascertained that we were cast away on 
the south of the St. Nicholas, on a dangerous sand-bar, 
situated three leagues from the land. He also discover- 
ed two vessels which were wrecked on the same sand, 
two miles distant from us, lying on their sides. On the 
west, and inner side of the sands, were several vessels 
lying at anchor and riding hard. From them we could 
expect no assistance, they having no suitable boats to 
encounter the breakers in which we were enveloped. 

it was now mid-day and ebb-tide ; this was favorable 
to us, as in the course of an hour we were very much 
relieved from the dashing of the waves. 

The gale increased and the clouds became dark and 
lowering, which bespoke the approaching storm. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 33 

At sun-set the captain advised us to take some nour- 
ishment and prepare ourselves to re-ascend to the tops, 
the only remaining place of refuge, during the dark- 
ness of the night. We ascended with heavy hearts and 
having gained the desired spot, each individual secured 
himself with a rope, to prevent his falling. I, being 
young, and incapable of securing myself, was secured by 
one of the sailors. Being comfortably wrapped up 
in a good pea-jacket, and childlike, regardless of the 
perilous situation in which we were placed, I enjoyed 
some repose during the gloomy night. 

During the night the storm continued to rage with un- 
abated fury. 

About midnight, the roaring gale apparently had at- 
tained its height. The elements seemingly had united 
in one all their tremendous powers to overwhelm our 
little bark, which seemed doomed to utter destruction. 
The waves were now making tremendous surges over 
the whole of the vessel, sweeping away with unrestrain- 
ed fury her bulwarks and everything on her decks 
of a movable nature.' 

What indeed, could have been our thoughts while en- 
deavoring to extend our eager eyes around us, as far as 
the shades of night would permit us ? What could we 
see before us that would in the least degree have any 
tendency to console our desponding spirits or alleviate 
our miserable condition ? 

We could see the white, curling waves successively 
rolling and tremendously beating against our little unfor- 
tunate bark, with unabated fury, and threatening to swallow 
us. We could hear the roaring and howling of the tem- 
pestuous gale, whistling swiftly by us threatening to cast 
us into the merciless abyss beneath. There was no 
created arm to appearance that could possibly have sav- 
ed us from our deplorable and forlorn condition. 

Oh ye mothers and fathers, wives and sisters, often 
think of your dear suffering kindred, floating on a track- 
less ocean, whose tender-hearted affections commingle 
with yours. Let your prayers and sympathies go with 
them. 

It was 12 o'clock at night, when the gale had attain- 
5 



34 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

ed its highest degree of violence ; it now began to 
lull. At 4 o'clock we had long lulls and short puffs, 
which were certain indications of the termination of the 
gale. 

Every countenance now was illuminated with the 
hope of relief, and every heart swelled with grati- 
tude for our miraculous deliverance from a premature, 
a watery grave. 

At 12 o'clock the elements around us had become 
perfectly calm. The weather was now favorable and 
being under no apprehension of being swept overboard 
by the waves, we descended to the deck after having 
been confined twelve hours in the top. 

On examining the remains of our bark we ascertain- 
ed that she was a total loss, her bilge and stern having 
been knocked in by the beating of the sea ; she was half 
lull of water and past recovery. 

The vessels which had been lying at anchor on the 
opposite side of the sand, had by this time got under 
way and were steering towards London, being favored 
with a light breeze from the southeast. Our captain 
now made a signal of distress in order to acquaint those 
vessels, that we had survived the severity of the storm 
and needed their assistance. 

On seeing the signal flying at our mast-head, the 
two cod smacks, which were the nearest , immediately 
steered towards us. It was some time before they could 
come near us, in consequence of the lightness of the 
wind. Some time after the sun had hid his refulgent face 
beneath the western horizon the vessels arrived within 
hail, and having approached us they immediately sent 
their boats to take us from the wreck. We all got into 
the boats rejoicingly, taking with us the few remaining 
articles of wearing apparel which we had managed to 
save. Having got on board of the smacks with safety, 
we steered towards London, it being the port to which 
they were bound with their cargoes of fish. The two 
vessels sailed in company, and being favored with a fair 
wind, arrived and cast anchor in the Lower Hope, tw T o 
days after we departed from the wreck. We came to 
anchor at high water, finding it impracticable to proceed 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 35 

any farther in consequence of the tide and lightness of 
the wind. During the ebb-tide there were several out- 
ward bound vessels, which had floated down the river 
with the stream and came to anchor close by us. On 
the following morning, just before the turn of tide, we 
were hailed by a large transport brig, which was very 
near to us, in the following manner: " Smack, ahoy ! 
have you got any fish to sell ?" " Yes," was the reply. 
Soon she sent her boat and the captain came on board 
to purchase some fish. While in the act of buying, 
perceiving that there were more men on board than the 
proper complement he immediately inquired into the 
cause of it. Having ascertained that we were a vessel's 
crew on board, who had been wrecked, and he, being 
short of hands, inquired of our captain if there were any 
of them who would like to ship with him in his brig. 
Among our crew he found two men who willingly ship- 
ped with him to go the voyage. Having agreed with 
these men he inquired of our captain if the two boys 
were his apprentices. Our captain's reply was, that 
Willie was his apprentice, but Tommy was not ; and ad- 
ded, if you want a cabin boy, you had belter take him; 
giving me a good recommendation, and saying to him 
that it would be a deed of charity as I was friendless. 
He then asked me if I was willing to go as a cabin boy 
on board of that fine looking brig ; adding, that she was 
going to Spain and would perform her voyage in a few 
months, and on my return I should have some money 
which would enable me to see my mother, if I could 
find her. 

Although I had a strong desire to see my mother, 
yet I did not disapprove of the proposal, but hesitated 
in giving an answer, not knowing what to do. After 
some persausion he succeeded in obtaining my consent, 
and accordingly I went with him on board his fine look- 
ing brig, the Paragon, of London. 



86 LIFE AND TRAVELS 



CHAPTER IV. 



Ships on board the Paragon ; sails from the Downs with a convoy; 
taken prisoner by a French lugger ; efforts to escape imprison- 
ment ; recapture of the vessel and our liberation ; arrival at 
Spithead ; embarkation of the troops ; departure of the convoy j 
description of the scene ; ancient tradition of the moon ; arrival 
at Portugal and disembarkation of the troops ; retreat of the 
French army out of Portugal ; arrival at Cadiz, and disembark- 
ation of the troops j arrival at Carthagena and disembarkation 
of the troops ; arrival at Alicant ;? junction of the forces ; attack 
on the city and landing of the army ; description of the attack • 
capture of the city ; retreat of the French army, pursued by the 
English; return of the army to the city ; embarkation of the 
army j departure from Alicant "; arrival of the army in the 
south of Spain • landing of the army ; defence of the enemy; at- 
tack on the French redoubts and fortification ; dislodgement of 
the French ; evacuation of the fort and retreat of the French, to 
the plain ; general engagement on the plain ; the French are re- 
pulsed and retreat ; embarkation ol the army ; the Paragon leaves 
the fleet and returns to Carthagena ; arrival in England ; the au- 
thor is induced to leave the ship ; enters on board of a ship of 
war. 

Having got on board of the brig, I was taken down in- 
to the cabin and instructed in the duties assigned me to 
perform during the voyage. 

At 12 M. it being about the turn of the tide, the 
pilot commanded to loose sails and heave short. Soon 
the anchor was weighed and her lofty sails were spread 
to the pleasant breeze, which speedily conveyed her 
through the waters of the Queen's Channel, towards the 
North- foreland light. The wind proving unusually fa- 
vorable, enabled us to cast anchor in the Downs at 11 
o'clock, P. M. Here we continued two days, waiting 
the arrival of more vessels from London, which on their 
arrival were to form a convoy and sail for Portsmouth, 
under the protection of a sloop of war and brig. The 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 37 

vessels having arrived, and the tide and wind proving 
favorable, we weighed anchor at 6 P. M. again spread 
our lofty canvas to the gentle breeze. Fifty sail of ves- 
sels constituted the whole of the convoy. They made 
a grand formidable appearance. We sailed close to the 
wind until we arrived opposite to Fair Leigh, where the 
wind headed us off shore. The order of the commo- 
dore indicated his intention to make a long stretch off 
shore, in order to enable the convoy to weather Beachy- 
head on the next tack. We sailed about two hours in 
this direction, when it was deemed necessary, in conse- 
quence of the increased violence of the wind, to reef 
top-sails. The wind still continued to increase, and 
again we were under the necessity of reefing and taking 
in sail. 

Our vessel could not keep to windward with the rest 
of the convoy, in consequence of her deficiency of bal- 
last. Being three miles to the leeward of the convoy 
and dark, it was with great difficulty that we could oc- 
casionally perceive the lights of the nearest vessels. We 
tacked ship in order to get in the track of the convoy 
on the next tack. We stood in for the land, uncon- 
scious of the near approach of our ill fate. We had not 
been above an hour on this tack when we perceived a 
strange sail close by us, crossing our bow. The officers 
immediately brought their spy-glasses to bear on her and 
announced her to be a French lugger. 

The vessel now became a scene of confusion* ; the 
captain and mate were so much embarrassed that they 
did not know what course to pursue for the safety of 
the vessel. There was no alternative ; no possible way 
of escape could be devised. Some were of the opinion 
that the firing ot our signal gun to alarm the commodore 
would probably deter her from taking us, as she would 
be detected by the commodore. Others were of the 
contrary opinion, and imagined that this would ultimately 
prove fatal to some of us, as it would only serve to en- 
rage the furious Frenchmen, who would undoubtedly re- 
venge themselves if we fell into their hands. This was 
an important consideration, and as such it was appre- 
ciated. 



38 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

Our captain, was determined to make his escape, if 
it were possible. Accordingly, he immediately com- 
manded to shake out all the reefs and loose the top-gal- 
lant-sails. The sails being all spread, he put up his 
helm, and steered for the Downs, being resolved to give 
the lugger a trial for the superiority in sailing. But the 
Frenchmen had not been idle during the time that we 
had been employed in making sail. They had been 
watching all our movements, and having discovered our 
intentions, she immediately wore ship, made all possible 
sail and steered for us. We soon perceived that the 
lugger was in pursuit of us, and undoubtedly had mark- 
ed us for her night's prey ; yet, notwithstanding the dis- 
couraging position in which we were placed, there still 
remained a universal hope and persevering spirit among 
the crew. But this hope was only momentary, as it 
gradually banished as the lugger approached nearer 
and nearer to us. The enemy, having approached us 
on our weather quarter, hailed us in English and com- 
manded us to heave to, with our head to the westward, 
and that without delay. Our captain, knowing that dis- 
obedience to the command given, might be attended by 
the sacrifice of some of our lives, immediately took in 
sail and and hove to, and waited for the lugger to board 
us. The lugger soon came to, under our lee quarter, 
and we were boarded by twenty Frenchmen, sword in 
hand. They commanded us to go below , where we 
were barred down and kept secured. Having done this, 
they made sail on the vessel and steered before the 
wind towards the coast of France. 

During our confinement our agitated minds became 
seriously concerned for our future destiny. Some deep- 
ly lamented the long anticipated separation from home 
and friends, which would unavoidably take place in con- 
sequence of our expected long, tedious confinement in a 
French prison. Others thought more of privations and 
the sufferings which their destitute families would have 
to endure, during their imprisonment. 

We were prisoners of war, and probably doomed for 
a long time to suffer the privations of a loathsome prison, 
deprived of the comforts of life, of our personal liberties, 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 39 

and all that on earth to us was dear. Placed in such 
trying circumstances as these, life, though sweet in itself, 
now become a painful burden. But kind fortune had 
unrevealed and unmerited favors reserved for us in 
store. The vessel continued her course during the 
night, and early in the morning arrived off the mouth of 
the bay of Bologne. The Frenchman had intended 
to sail into the harbor before the break of day, if 
possible, to escape the English cruisers, if there were 
any cruising or lying at anchor, at the mouth of the 
harbor. But in consequence of the darkness of the 
night they necessarily had been compelled to shorten 
sail, and the fury of the wind, having abated towards 
morning, they were thus frustrated in their designs and 
daybreak overtook them on the ocean ; and thus they 
were exposed to the English cruisers. It was fortu- 
nate for us that it so happened, for had the night been 
clear and the wind continued, the vessel would have 
arrived in the harbor before morning in safety, and we 
must have gone to suffer indescribable miseries in a 
French prison ; but it was otherwise ordained. The day 
was breaking when the vessel commenced entering the 
harbor of Bologne; and not having as yet discovered any 
of the English cruisers, the Frenchmen were in great hi- 
larity, thinking themselves in perfect safety with their 
prize. 

But the scene was soon changed ; those who were 
now rejoicing and quaffing deeply of the cup of prosper- 
ity, were soon brought to mourn and drink as deeply 
of the bitter cup of adversity. 

Soon the noise ceased on deck, and in a few minutes 
subsequent, we heard articulating in French, ' A brig of 
war! a brig of war !' ' He is an Englishman,' reported 
another voice. ' Sacra la Anglois !l resounded every 
voice, all over the decks. In fifteen minutes more we 
heard the report of a great gun ; this circumstance con- 
nected with the preceding report, raised our dejected 
spirits and led us strongly to believe that our redemp- 
tion was nigh. Soon after we heard the sound of the 
speaking trumpet and immediately after was heard the 
shrill sound of the boatswain's pipe. These were fol- 



40 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

lowed by the roll of the drum and a great concussion on 
our lee-quarter, which shook the vessel fore and aft. 
This was succeeded by a great noise on deck, like the 
jumping and running of men. English voices, com- 
manding, were now distinctly heard, ordering the dis- 
mayed Frenchmen to the quarter deck. 

They made no resistance when boarded by the first 
class of boarders, from his British majesty's brig of war, 
but quietly submitted to their fate. Having obtained 
possession of the vessel, the English commanding offic- 
er immediately ordered the French crew to be confined, 
and to liberate the English prisoners. Thus in a few 
minutes the scene was greatly changed. They were 
confined and we were liberated ; freed from confine- 
ment and from our anticipated miserable condition. 
This unexpected deliverance was hailed by us with great 
joy. Our hearts, which had previously been made sad 
by adversity, now swelled with gratitude. But in the 
midst of our joy we could not help reflecting on the sud- 
den change which fortune sometimes makes. 

The prisoners being now secured under hatches, both 
vessels made sail for the anchorage, where we soon arriv- 
ed in safety. While lyi n g here, the prisoners were re- 
moved to a sloop of war, and our captain again was put 
in full possession and command of his vessel. The 
wind being now unfavorable, we were under the neces- 
sity of waiting for a favorable change. This having 
been accomplished, we weighed anchor and with light 
hearts and a jovial song made sail and steered for Ports- 
mouth in company with the sloop of war, which escort- 
ted us as far as Beaohy-head and then returned to her 
station. We arrived at Spithead three days after our 
departure from the Bay of Bologne. Having come to 
an anchor among the shipping, the commodore and trans- 
port agent and ship-masters came on board to receive 
information relative to our mysterious disappearance 
from the convoy. 

At Spithead we waited a week for the arrival of the 
troops from the different sections of the country, to 
embark for Lisbon, in Portugal, as a reinforcement to 
the remains of Sir John Moore's army, which was then 
commanded by Lord Wellington. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 41 

During this time we were employed in taking in all 
kinds of provisions and warlike stores. 

At length the troops arrived, and were embarked for 
Portugal to reinforce Lord Wellington's army, which 
was then occupying an important position to cover the 
city of Lisbon from the invasion of the French army, 
then commanded by the distingushed Massena. It was 
early in the morning when the admiral's ship fired a 
gun, loosed her fore-top-sail and unfolded his blue Peter 
on the fore sky-sail mast, which is a signal ior sea, and 
for weighing anchor. Every vessel belonging to the con- 
voy immediately obeyed the signal. This is a strict 
rule to be observed by the commanders of every ves- 
sel in the convoy without deviation. In the first 
place, before the convoy leaves the port, the admiral 
or commodore makes a well-known signal for the mas- 
ters of all the transports to come on board of his ship to 
receive their instructions and signals, by which they may 
know from the commodore how to steer, make or short- 
en sail in their passage to the port of destination. By 
these means convoys are guided and protected across 
the ocean. As the signals were promptly obeyed, soon 
every vessel spread her wings to the favorable breeze. 
Being young and unaccustomed to seeing such a vast 
number of ships, I was very much surprised, and view- 
ed the interesting scene with great admiration ; it seemed 
like a city on the ocean, its lofty spires pointing to the 
skies. 

We sailed for Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, with a 
convoy of 60 or 70 sail of transports and ships of war. 
In company with us sailed three other convoys, which 
together swelled the number to 500 sail. Those con- 
voys were destined to the Cape of Good Hope, West 
Indies, Mediterranean, he. It will be borne in mind 
that these convoys were made up of merchant vessels, 
which were carrying their merchandize to their respec- 
tive places of trade. 

We sailed by the beautiful Isle of Wight, steered 
our course down the channel, and at mid-day arrived off 
the White-cliffs near Berry-head. A few hours after- 
wards we arrived near the Eddystone light-house. This 

a 



42 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

is built on a small rock situated nine miles from Ram's 
head, which is the West pointof the mouth of Plymouth 
Bay. This sea-monument is one of nature's curiosi- 
ties. The rock on which the light-house is built, is 
sufficiently large to form its foundation which is secur- 
ed with iron fastenings. This mode of securing the 
foundation was adopted when the present light-house 
was erected, in consequence of the former one having 
been washed away in a gale of wind. 

The light-house keeper has a perilous, and unenviable 
situation, as during the existence of a gale, the sea fre- 
quently rises over the rock, and the spray often rises to 
the lantern. We viewed the delightful prospects 
which the different hillocks presented to our view from 
the different sections of the Albion coast, as we swiftly 
passed by it. At length the sun descended beneath the 
bosom of the western ocean and the night enveloped us 
in her dark mantle, which banished from our vision the 
interesting remains of our highly favored isle. 

Having performed the duties of the day cheerfully, I 
retired to repose my wearied frame. My bed consisted 
of a hammock, which was suspended beneath the deck 
by a number of small lines, which left it in a swinging 
position ; in it was a hair matress, accompanied by a 
double blanket. I laid down f;nd endeavored to sleep 
in my new fashioned bed, but it was in vain ; no sleep 
to my eyes ; no rest to my wearied limbs. This dis- 
turbed state proceeded from being unaccustomed to the 
creaking noise of the bulk-heads and swinging, rolling 
and pitching of the vessel, which kept every thing in 
constant motion. Happy was I when I beheld a ray of 
morning light. Notwithstanding the sleepless and rest- 
less night which I passed, and the qualmishness that I 
then felt, I jumped out of my swinging hammock in or- 
der to go on deck ; but as soon as my feet touched, 1 
was rolled away with the roll of the ship to the lee-side, 
then backward and forward several times in succession 
before I could assist myself in the least. At last after 
being considerably bruised, by chance, I took hold of a 
supporter, by which means I regained my standing po- 
sition. I then became more cautious of the movements 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 43 

of the vessel and succeeded once more in regaining the 
upper deck. We sailed towards the port of destination 
without experiencing the least molestation. Finally « we 
arrived in the port of our destination and came to an- 
chor below Balurn Castle and immediately proceeded to 
disembark the troops. This task was accomplished the 
same day of our arrival. The troops made preparations 
to march on the following day. That evening, news 
was received from the army by the commanding officer, 
that Massena, after failing in his endeavors to draw lord 
Wellington from his position, was precipitately march- 
ing out of Portugal and his lordship's army was following 
in his rear, harassing and successfully dislodging his troops 
wherever they attempted to form, to cover their retreat. 
Tin's gratifying and welcome news was universally 
hailed as the redemption of Portugal from the usurping 
power of Bonaparte, and was celebrated by a magnifi- 
cent illumination throughout the country. 

The troops having rested from the fatigue of the voy- 
age and recovered from their sea-sickness, part of then> 
took up the line of march to unite with the army. The 
remainder were re-embarked lor Cadiz, to reinforce 
General Graham, who commanded that important gar- 
rison, and defended it from the desperate assaults of the 
French army, and who after that sallied out and obtain- 
ed a victory over them upon the nights of Barossa in 
connection with the Spanish General Lapena. 

The troops being re-embarked, the commander's 
ship fired a gun, hoisted the Blue Peter, and our gal- 
lant fleet was again in motion. We sailed for Cadiz, 
and in a few days arrived there and cast anchor in safe- 
ty. Here we disembarked some hundred troops as a 
reinforcement for the garrison of that important city. 

On the day after our arrival, we received orders, to 
proceed with the remainder of the troops to Carthage- 
na, to reinforce the Spanish troops and take posses- 
sion of the castle of Tallalla, which is situated on a 
high, commanding eminence, on the side of the city as 
you go into its harbor. 

We again weighed anchor and proceeded on our voy- 
age through the gut of Gibraltar, and soon passed that 



44 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

great and impregnable fortress, which is considered by 
well-informed men, the key and bulwarks of the straits. 
We still continued on our passage, and in six days ar- 
rived safely and cast anchor in the harbor of Carthage- 
na, and immediately proceeded to disembark the troops, 
Having landed our troops, the fleet immediately made 
sail for the port of Alicant, where we were to meet the 
main army, then waiting our arrival, in order to 
unite for the attack on the French. On the following 
day we arrived in the bay of Alicant, and there met the 
main body of the army, waiting our arrival. 

All necessary preparations being previously made, 
the army, consisting of 10,000 men, proceeded to 
disembark in the face of the enemy's intrenched lines 
and strong batteries under cover of the gun-boats and 
such of the small vessels of war as the shoal water would 
safely admit. To my young and inexperienced mind 
the scene was truly majestic and terrible. The line o f 
gun-boats, bomb-ships, and other smaller vessels of war, 
arranged in the line of battle, under the muzzles of the 
enemy's guns, exhibited a stern resolution in our officers 
and men to conquer or die in the attempt. 

It seemed to me to be truly grand, and I already im- 
agined the battle won. Add to this, 60 or 70 flat-bot- 
tomed boats, each carrying a long gun and 60 armed 
men. In addition to this, the transport-boats engaged in 
towing these large boats full of troops to the several 
suitable positions for landing ; and 100 or more boats 
from the several ships of war landing the marines and 
sailors, with their suitable implements to scale the walls 
of the enemy's batteries. In the midst of these active 
operations, the roaring of the cannon, which shook the 
very earth ; also the dense columns of smoke, which 
reached the heavens, conveyed the tidings that a great, 
a destructive conflict was going on. Next the respect- 
ive showers of musket balls from the enemy's trenches 
which fell in and around our landing boats, and which 
deprived many of life, taking their souls into the world 
of spirits. 

The continual showers of cannon-shot, and bullets of 
the enemy's guns, skipping on the surface of the deep, 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 45 

cutting men and boats asunder and dismounting guns and 
sinking gun-boats at their will, added to the terrific 
grandeur of the scene. 

In the midst of this vehement fire the troops landed, 
formed and marched with a firm step, forced the trench- 
es at the point of the bayonet, stormed the redoubts 
and turned the guns towards the main fortification. Soon 
they succeeded in forcing the main batteries and obliged 
the gallant Frenchmen to retreat precipitately, leaving 
the dead and wounded and a great part of their stores in 
possession of the victors. 

Thus ended this bloodv and contested struggle between 

^ CO 

the contending armies of two of the greatest powers in 
Europe. 

This victory was not decisive of the liberation of the 
province from the encroaching and usurping power of the 
French. Though they had been vanquished and routed 
from this important city in less than four hours, and a 
great victory and a city had been gained ; yet there re- 
mained much to do to exterminate them from the prov- 
ince, as they still held the greatest part in their posses- 
sion. 

The French were closely pursued for several days in 
succession along the coast, during which time the com- 
manding officer spared no pains nor military skill in his 
efforts to draw the French general into battle, but all in 
vain. 

The shrewd Frenchman was something like the child 
who had been stung by the bee. He felt no disposition 
to approach the hive again. The French now being in 
full retreat to concentrate the provincial forces, and the 
English general failing in all his endeavors to bring him 
to battle, came to the conclusion to halt, countermarch 
and re-embark his troops and proceed along the coast 
and dislodge them at Rosas, where they had a strong hold. 

The army centered at Alicant after an absence of ten 
days amidst the acclamations of the citizens, who took 
them by the hand on every side as they marched through 
the city, and expressed gratitude for their deliverance. 
The army approached the sea shore and the embarka- 
tion took place. In a few hours they were on board, 



46 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

and the ships were ready for sea again, but in conse- 
quence of adverse winds we were under the necessity of 
remaining inactive in the port for several days. 

This short respite was considered in some degree 
favorable to the troops, as it enabled them to repair dam- 
ages and rest from the fatigues produced by the recent 
battle and forced marches. 

The ocean breeze in a few days proving favorable, 
our admiral ship fired a gun and displayed the blue Pe- 
ter. We steered our course for the south of Spain, and 
in a few days arrived and came to an anchor in safety, 
opposite the French fort, which was seven miles dis- 
tance from us. This was a very unfavorable position 
which the ships unavoidably had taken, in consequence 
of the shallowness of the water ; and it was one, which 
at the time, was deeply regretted, as it deprived them 
of rendering the necessary co-operation to the troops in 
covering their landing in the approaching encounter. 

The night subsequent to our arrival a Spanish boat 
came off under cover of the night, which brought im- 
portant information to our commander. Having ascer- 
tained the position and strength of the enemy's forces, 
and having previously made all necessary preparations 
for the disembarkation, we proceeded on the following 
day to land the appointed forces, which numbered 4000 
men, in the very face of the enemy, who were advan- 
tageously posted along the top oi the small sand-hills on 
either side of the fort. 

It would be utterly impossible for n.e to describe the 
scene correctly or to do justice to the subject, being pla- 
ced at such a distance from the scene of action ; but 
according to my knowledge, and that which 1 derived from 
those who partock of the honors of that day, I will en- 
deavor to give an impartial representation of the battle. 

I had conceived that the recent battle, which had ta- 
ken place in Alicant was truly majestic and sublime ; 
but in my opinion, this by far, surpassed it in bravery on 
the part of our troops, considering the many disadvanta- 
ges under which they labored. Jn the first place, the 
shallowness of the water prevented the ships from cov- 
ering the landing troops from the enemy's destructive 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 47 

fire to which they were long exposed. In the second 
place they were under the necessity of forming their 
ranks whilst up to their waists in the water, and marching 
in this manner for a long distance towards the enemy, 
who being comfortably situated, was constantly pouring 
a deadly fire upon them. In the third place, after gain- 
ing the dry land, they had to march up the sand hills at 
the mouth of the cannon to dislodge the enemy from 
their strong and advantageous position, at the point of the 
bayonet. 

These obstacles could not have been surmounted by 
any ordinary mode of warfare. Nothing short of an un- 
wearied, unyielding and persevering spirit of intrepidity, 
could have successfully surmounted the difficulties here 
delineated. 

They dislodged the enemy from their strong position, 
who commenced a retreat under the protection of the 
fort, towards the plain and in its rear. By this time 
a party of sailors, who had been sedulously engaged in 
getting a long gun on the top of a commanding hill, had 
actually succeeded in their difficult enterprise and had 
now commenced an effectual and destructive fire, which 
conveyed dismay into the fortress and threatened its im- 
mediate dissolution. This gun was kept constantly em- 
ployed ; every shot was effectual and did some execu- 
tion. So severe and destructive was its fire, that in less 
than three quarters of an hour, the enemy found them- 
selves under the necessity of evacuating the fort, as it 
had become a very uncomfortable residence. 

The French having been compelled to leave the fort, 
now slowly retreated towards the plain, intentionally 
drawing cur forces from the sand hills that they might 
effectually charge them in the rear with their cavalry. 
The French having got to a suitable distance, halted, 
formed in line of battle and opened a brisk fire, which 
was immediately returned with equal success. 

After the firing had continued for some time, during 
which many fell on both sides, the French made a des- 
perate and united effort, horse and foot, to charge the 
English wings. Their right wing which was composed 
of infantry, supported by a squadron of horse, charged 



48 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

the English left wing, which rested at the base of a small 
sand hill. Their left wing, with a full battalion and six 
or seven hundred horse, charged the English right, with 
full confidence of turning the wing to attack the rear, 
and thus drive them towards their centre, which was 
ready to receive them. The English being well formed 
calmly received the expected onset with a bent knee, 
vigorously repelling them on the left wing. On the right, 
the heavy battalion and 700 horses, made several at* 
tempts to drive the wing into the rear but without effect. 
The English wing being firmly formed to prevent its 
being turned, and a resolute spirit of resistance existing 
among the troops, all the efforts of the enemy to break 
the line proved unavailing. The French made one 
more desperate attempt to force the English wing. 
The foot, in front of the horse, attempted to get into 
the rear. In doing this, a body of 500 from the reserve 
unexpectedly came upon them, from behind the sand 
hills, which they had to pass in order to get to our rear, 
which threw them into confusion and disorder ; and not 
being able to advance to support the charge of their in- 
fantry, they retreated with great loss and disorder. At 
the same time that the cavalry was repelled, their infan- 
try was also repulsed. At this time the whole of the 
English lines advanced to the charge, which the French 
avoided by a precipitate retreat. 

The French now being in full retreat were pursued 
but a short distance, having no cavalry to assist and re- 
pel the French cavalry in their desperate onsets, had 
they deemed it proper to have made another stand. 

Having endured the excessive fatigue of a severe 
fought battle, we again embarked our troops to proceed 
along the coast and dislodge the enemy from every foot- 
hold. 

Our captain and several others while lying at Alicant 
had received orders from the transport agent, to make 
preparations to discharge the remaining government 
stores on our arrival at Rosas, as it was expedient for 
the vessels to return home, by expiration of the time 
for which they were employed by the government. — 
On our arrival at Rosas, the troops which were on board 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 49 

of our vessel, were immediately conveyed on board of 
the other transports and all the government stores. 

Having embarked all the troops and the wind proving 
favorable, the fleet again set sail and steered along the 
coast. The vessels which were homeward bound were 
7 in number, including the sloop of war, which was to 
convoy us home. These sailed for Carthagena, where 
we were to load with spars for Portsmouth, England. 

At Carthagena the vessels went into the arsenal ba- 
sin, where we took in our cargo, and at the expiration 
of four weeks we joyfully made sail for the land of our 
birth, at which we arrived in seven weeks. 

On our arrival at Portsmouth we received orders from 
the navy commissioners to enter the harbor and discharge 
our cargo at the navy yard. 

Having fulfilled all our orders, according to the wishes 
of the commissioners, the ship's crew was immediately 
discharged and the vessel was laid up until the captain 
should find employment for her. 

I, being young and homeless, was permitted by the 
captain to remain on board of the vessel, as he had an- 
ticipated taking me as an apprentice to the ship. For 
my past services the captain rewarded me with a good 
suit of blue sailor's clothes and others of inferior quality, 
and 55. for pocket money. This compensation was more 
than adequate to my just demands. During the voyage 
I had the good fortune to receive the kindest of treat- 
ment from the captain and his amiable lady. 

While in Portsmouth I became acquainted with a 
a number of boys who belonged to a large king's ship, 
near to us and which was nearly ready for sea. She 
was a ship of 2,000 tons, drawing 24 feet of water, hav- 
ing four decks, three of which w T ere above water, on two 
of which she mounted 24 guns of 32 lbs. caliber. Her 
complement of men was 120. She was one of the gov- 
ernment ships, employed in conveying stores of all des- 
criptions to the army and navy in all parts of the world. 
She was not a regular fighting ship, but was sufficiently 
armed to fight her own way and to protect such convoys 
as might be intrusted to her protection. She was H. 
B. M. ship Hindostan, built in India, and at this time 
7 



50 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

was commanded by captain Dunken Ware, one of the 
twelve masters. Whether this means the twelve oldest 
masters in the navy or the twelve trinity masters I am 
not able to decide. Be it as it may, they were intrusted 
by the admiral each with the command of one of these 
store ships, which in discipline did not in the least de- 
gree deviate from that of a regular ship of war. By 
these boys I was frequently invited on board. These 
invitations were readily accepted and we often enjoyed 
our mutual visits. When I first visited this store-ship I 
was struck with surprise at the immense size of this floa- 
ting monster of the sea. 1 admired the great guns and 
shot-lockers round the hatchway, and the neatness of 
the ship in every respect, and especially the birth-deck 
and mess-tables which were as white as they possibly 
could be. The shelves on which the crockery was pla- 
ced for security were painted very nice and tasty; in a word 
every thing appeered neat and grand. I was more than 
gratified with the neatness of the sailors' uniforms the first 
sabbath that I witnessed them answering their master. 
They were dressed in white trowsers, blue jackets and 
leather hats, on which the ship's name was beautifully 
inscribed in gilt letters. 

My mind now became ravished with these allurements, 
and I became a frequent visitor on board. The fre- 
quencies of which created an ardent desire in me to 
embark on board and traverse the ocean in this great, 
floating bulwark of Old England. My mind proved 
unstable for some time on this point, but finally I came 
to the conclusion to sail in her if possible. Having as- 
certained that the ship stood in need of four or five boys, 
I made immediate application to the second master for 
a situation on board, who, having satisfactorily interroga- 
ted me, gave me an assurance of a birth. I remained 
on board of the brig until this great ship was ready 
for sea. This I did to prevent a premature disclosure 
of my plan to Captain Brown, whose interference would 
probably have frustrated my designs, though he had no 
right to do so, as I was not an apprentice to the vessel. 
Four or five days having elapsed I ascertained that the 
ship was ready for sea and that she would leave the jetty 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 51 

on the next high water. According to this information 
I readily perceived that the time of my departure drew 
nigh and that it was necessary that I should be on board 
in season. It was now high water and apparently there 
was a great bustle in getting the ship off from the jetty. 
It was then that 1 embraced the opportunity. I ming- 
led with the boys and stepped on board unobserved. 

In a short time the ship was under sail steering out of 
the harbor with a favorable breeze, which is indispensa- 
ble in consequence of the narrowness of the harbor's 
mouth. In about one hour and a half the ship came 
to an anchor at Spithead, where she laid a week, taking 
in her water and provision. 



52 LIFE AND TRAVELS 



CHAPTER V. 



Sails in H. B. S. Hindostan ; arrives at Gibraltar ; from thence to 
Carthagena ; visits the English soldiers and fortifications ; ar- 
rives at Mahon and meets part of Sir Edward Pillow's fleet 
there ; description of a sailor's trial and horrible punishment ; 
arrives at Carthagena; gains knowledge of the city; descrip- 
tion of the city and its fortifications ; public execution of three 
English deserters ; description of the Spanish G-ipsys ; departure 
from Carthagena ; meets the Victory 7d with her prize of 90 ; 
description of the battle ; arrival at Gibraltar ; attack of the 
French on Tariffa, Algesiras and St. Roche ; description of the 
rock of Gibraltar, its fortifications and the town ; description of 
St. Michael's cavern ; arrival on the summit of the mount ; the 
Moorish Castle ; arrival at Cadiz ; description of the Carraques : 
departure from Cadiz ; short allowance of water ; the suffering 
of the author ; arrival in England ; takes in 15 American pris- 
oners ; conversation with one of the prisoners ; departure from 
Spithead ; preparations for an engagement with a supposed ene- 
my ; arrival at Chatham , chosen by the captain's lady to be ed- 
ucated and is disappointed by a misrepresentation of his dispo- 
sition. 

Having made all necessary preparations for sea and 
the wind being now favorable, we started with a convoy 
of 40 sail for the Mediterranean. This convoy was pro- 
tected by two frigates, one sloop of war and two store- 
ships. We sailed down the channel with a favorable 
breeze until we arrived off Torbay, where we were un- 
der the necessity of coming to anchor in consequence of 
adverse winds. In Torbay we remained a few days, 
waiting for a favorable wind to waft us to our destined 
port. At length being favored with a good wind we 
sailed in company until we arrived off the city of Lis- 
bon, at which point our convoy was divided ; one half 
of which under the protection of one of the frigates 
sailed for Lisbon, it being the place of their destination, 
and the remainder proceeded on their voyage until we 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 53 

arrived at the Straits of Gibraltar, where the two store- 
ships separated from the convoy and run into the harbor. 
The remainder of the convoy proceeded on the voyage 
to their several ports up the Mediterranean. 

Having parted from our convoy w r e came to an anchor 
in the bay of Gibraltar, close in to the Mole-head. — 
Here we disembarked two companies of artillery who 
were to be stationed three years at this impregnable 
fortress. We discharged several hundred tons of cordage 
for the ships of war, together with powder, shot and pro- 
visons of all descriptions. Here we remained two or 
three weeks, during which time we discharged a part of 
the cargo for the arsenal, when we again weighed anchor 
and steered our course for the city of Carthagena, where 
we arrived in safety in 13 or 14 days. On our arrival 
at this port we came to anchor close into the land, under 
the castle of TalJo ; and on the following day entered 
the arsenal basin. Here we remained six weeks, dur- 
ing which time we were busily employed in discbaiging 
all kinds of stores for the Spanish army and na\y, also 
for the English garrison, which had charge of all the for- 
tifications of this important city. 

While lying here, the ship's crew was fully indulged 
every sabbath with liberty on shore. This privilege, 
greatly appreciated by the crew, gave us a good oppor- 
tunity to acquire a knowledge of the city and its fortifi- 
cations. 

The first sabbath subsequent to our arrival, three fourths 
of the ship's crew had liberty on shore and I had the 
pleasure of being one of the number. Three or four 
bxiys of us, accompanied by an old quarter-master, to 
whose care we had been intrusted while on shore, soon 
pa-sed through the navy-yard gate, which led us into 
the city and into Royal street. This was a long and 
wide street ; in it and opposite to the navy yard gate 
was the marine barracks; this is a beautiful stone build- 
ing, four stories high, very long and capacious and suffi- 
ciently large to accommodate 6 or 7,000 men. We 
proceeded toward the gates of Madrid, near which was 
a very extensive brick building originally built for a gra- 
nary, but recently converted into a barrack, and at this 



54 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

time was occupied as such by the English troops. To 
it we made our way, enjoying hopeful anticipations of 
being richly rewarded by the expected gratification of 
seeing and holding a mutual conversation with our friends 
and countrymen who had been compelled to leave behind 
them their friends and relatives to fight the battles of 
strangers. Upon arriving at the barracks we were con- 
ducted up to the first floor, which was occupied by the 
soldiers. In the course of our visit through the several 
apartments to satisfy our curiosity, I met with several of 
the soldiers who came out with me in my previous voy- 
age to this port. They congratulated me on my pros- 
perous return home and my speedy return out to this 
port in my large war ship, as they termed it. During 
our visit we were handsomely entertained and invited to 
visit them again as soon as convenience would permit us. 

Being fully gratified with the day's recreation and the 
evening shades appearing, we slowly retired to our 
respective ships, to be ready to resume on the following 
day our duties. 

During our continuation in port, we continued our 
visits to the barracks and all parts of the city and its for- 
tifications. Having discharged that part of our cargo 
which was destined for this place, we again made prepar- 
ations to continue on our voyage to the next port of des- 
tination. The ship now being ready for sea and the 
wind proving favorable, we made sail for port Mahon, 
where we arrived in a few days. At port Mahon we 
met part of Sir Edward Pillow's fleet, which had come 
from the blockade of Toulon to refit, this being the 
place appointed by government, it being the nearest and 
most suitable place. We immediately proceeded to 
discharge the cargo which was designed for these ships, 
which consisted of provisions and all necessary war- 
like stores. Here also we were indulged on the sab- 
bath with permission to visit the shore and city. Hav- 
ing delivered our stores to the several fhips we again 
made the necessary preparations for proceeding on our 
voyage. While lying in the outward roads, ready for 
sea, an occurrence took place the remembrance of which 
causes the blood to chill in my veins. It was this : ois* 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 55 

of the mariners whose name I cannot remember, indulg- 
ed a strong desire to revisit the city once more before 
the departure of the ship. This unfortunate man was 
so strongly tempted by this propensity, that he put his 
life on the altar as a sacrificial equivalent to its gratifica- 
tion. He had the audaciousness to take a boat in the 
silent hour of the night, from the ship's side, and almost 
from under the immediate watchful eye of the quarter- 
master, in which he conveyed himself on. shore. Early 
in the morning the boat was missing ; the quarter-mas- 
ters of the night-watches could give no account of it, for 
which omission of duty they were put in irons and con- 
demned to suffer punishment according to the crime.— 
In consequence of this occurrence, the ship's crew were 
in a state of excitement, knowing that if the captain 
brought this man to a court martial, he would undoubt- 
edly be hung to the yard-arm ; this being the penalty 
of the act, unless he was reprieved and sent through the 
fleet to receive 4 or 500 lashes on his back; he had 
committed a double crime, stolen the boat and deserted 
the ship, the penalty of which is death by the laws of 
w 7 ar. 

Having confined the quarter-masters, a boat w 7 as im- 
mediately dispatched to the shore in search of the de- 
serter. After an hour or two he was apprehended, 
brought on board and put in irons. At 9 o'clock the 
captain came on the quarter-deck and after walking there 
a few minutes, he called for the carpenter and his mates 
to rig the gratings, and the boatswain and his mates to 
pipe all hands to witness the punishment. This is a 
well known and unwelcome sound, which when it is 
heard, conveys dismay and creates sensations of pain 
in the heart of every honest tar which cannot be des- 
scribed. 

The ship's crew were now arranged on -one side of 
the quarter-deck, while the marines occupied the poop 
and the officers the other side of the deck. The gra- 
ting was fastened perpendicularly to the main rigging, 
and the captain stood near it. Near by stood the boat- 
swain and his mates. The prisoner stood near and op- 
posite to the captain. 



56 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

After a thorough examination of the prisoner's ease, 
the captain requested him to say whether guilty, or not 
guilty. He plead guilty to the charge alledged to him. 
Having acknowledged his guilt, the captain gave him 
choice to be tried by a court martial on board of the 
admiral's ship, or to receive six dozen lashes on board of 
his own ship. To the latter part of the proposition he 
readily acquiesced. He was now fastened, hands and 
feet, to the gratings. The boatswain's mate stood by 
with the cat-o'-nine-tails in his hand, waiting for the 
word of command, to strike. Now the heart-rending 
scene opened to our view. The captain spoke : ' Boat- 
swain's mate, do your duty.' As he laid on the strokes, 
the blood oozed forth, the flesh quivered, the sufferer 
groaned, and a breathless silence pervaded the ship's 
company. 

The first boatswain's mate gave him thirty-six lashes ; 
the pitiful sufferer's back was now in a complete gore. 
The second boatswain's mate, with a clean ' cat,' was 
now called to do his duty and to accomplish the sen- 
tence passed. He proceeded and accomplished his task, 
amid the groans of the unfortunate man, whose back 
exhibited a deplorable sight not easily described. The 
quarter-master, whose watch it was, when the boat was 
taken, was also slightly punished, for omission of duty. 
The others, who were not found guilty, were liberated 
and sent to perform their duty. 

This is one of the heart-rending scenes which men-of- 
war's men are often called to witness, and on such oc- 
casions, they do not fail to bestow their honest sym- 
pathies on their unfortunute ship-mates. 

The ship being ready for sea and the wind now prov- 
ing favorable, we made a signal for sea and spread our 
large and lofty wings once more to the winds, which 
conveyed us to cur destined port, where we arrived in a 
few days. 

Upon our arriving in the Bay of Carthagena, we 
sailed into the arsenal basin and came to an anchor, in 
a suitable place to take in our cargo, which was to con- 
sist of spars, great guns, and shot. 

In our stay at this port, the ship's crew had liberty 



OF THOMAS W SMITH. 57 

to go on shore every sabbath. The cabin boys gene- 
rally attended their master to the market every morning. 
This afforded us an opportunity to acquire a know- 
ledge of the city. 

In my former and present voyage, I acquired consid- 
erable knowledge of the Spanish language, which I found 
to be of great advantage then, and in many instances in 
my subsequent career in life. 

During our stay here, we visited all the fortifications 
within and without the city. This privilege could not 
have been granted us, had we not been employed 
in the navy, and the fortifications in the possession of 
the British. In addition to this, we visited all the con- 
vents and obtained some knowledge of the orders of 
their priests and friars. 

Carthagena cannot fail of being interesting to a for- 
eign observer. Interesting for its large and beautiful 
bay, its safe and commodious harbor, which is capable 
of containing a thousand ships of war in perfect safety. 
The Arsenal Basin, which is within the harbor, is a 
most beautiful and safe place for shipping, as they are 
completely sheltered from every danger. 

The city presents the form of a bow, the part which 
faces toward the city of Madrid represents the back part 
of the bow, and the part which faces the harbor repre- 
sents the front of it. The breadth of it from the cen- 
ter of the bow to the center of the string, that is from 
the gates of Madrid to the sea gates, is probably one mile 
and a half long. The principal street, which runs 
in the direction of the string of the bow, is probably two 
miles and a half, that is, from the gates of St. James to 
the Arsenal gate. 

This city is built on a plain, and it is surrounded by a 
strong, well-built rampart ; the outer wall of which is 
60 feet high and is built of very large and massive stone. 
From the wall projects half-moon bastions, which are 
one-sixth of a mile apart, mounting ten guns each. The 
part of the rampart which faces Madrid is 60 feet wide; 
that which faces the sea, the greatest part of it 300 feet 
wide. This part of the rampart is situated at the foot 
of the Moorish castle. It is handsomely flagged and 
8 



58 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

sufficiently large for a parade ground, for three or four 
thousand troops at a time, for which purpose it is 
frequently used. This rampart has but two bastions, 
the remainder being a long, straight, high and strong 
wall, against whose base the sea is continually dashing. 
This rampart rises on the side of a mountain, on the left 
of the inland part of the city, and unites to the castle of 
Tallo, which crowns a mountain one mile long and 7 or 
800 feet above the level of the sea, and which forms the 
most important part of the harbor, its basin. The cas- 
tle has a complete command over the harbor, and all its 
fortifications within and without the city. It is inacces- 
sible on every side and therefore impregnable to every 
foe. About three-quarters of a mile without the city, 
opposite to the castle of Tallo, is another mountain, 
which is 5 or 6 hundred feet above the level of the 
sea and which is inaccessible on three sides, and the 
fourth is very difficult of access. On it is a large stone 
castle, which is named Soladado, or Solitude, which 
mounts from 70 to 80 guns. This castle can render no 
protection to the city, farther than to prevent an enemy 
from raising a fortification on the mount, which would 
very much annoy the castle of Tallo. 

The space from the foot of this mountain to the near- 
est part of the city wall is three-fourths of a mile ; it is 
nearly level and is occupied by a large village, which 
bears the name of Kitta-pellagos or e take-off-skins.' 
Here there are many gardens of note and particularly 
the Governor's, which is very large and remarkable for 
beauty. 

Half a mile distant *on the right of the city, as you 
face it from the harbor, is another very large village, 
which is denominated St. Cines, and which is situated 
on plain ground along the sea-shore. In the midst of 
this village is a small castle, which also bears the name 
of the saint, and is an excellent outwork. On the right 
hand of the entrance of the harbor and opposite to the 
castle of Tallo is another castle situated on a high ridge, 
which also commands the entrance and a great part of 
the harbor. Without the city wall there is a ditch 
which completely encircles the city from one side of the 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 59 

sea to the other, including the mountain, on which the 
castle of Tallo stands at whose outward base is a lake 
into which the ditch empties its contents. This lake 
is separated from the sea by a small sand bank, which 
is from 60 to 70 feet wide and one-fourth of a mile 
long, and abounds with good fish. 

Before the city is an avenue, or kind of mall, which 
is three miles long, 150 feet wide, and it is decorated 
and shaded by a line of high and beautiful trees, en- 
twining in each others' boughs. It commences at the 
gates of Madrid and ends at a very large and beautiful 
village, which bears the name of St. Antonio. This is 
a place of recreation for the nobility ; and to it they 
generally resort in the after part of the day to enjoy the 
fresh reviving air. 

There is a street which runs straight from the gates 
of Madrid to the sea-gates, which is called la calle prin- 
cipal, or principal street. In this street is the govern- 
or's mansion and several national buildings built of 
black marble. This street contains the three principal 
squares, each of which contains a large and beautiful 
white marble fountain, from which issues streams of crys- 
tal water. 

The city contains nine marble fountains, situated in 
the principal squares : from them the w T ants of the in- 
habitants are daily supplied. It also contains four large 
and beautiful barracks, capable of accommodating 20,000 
troops. Close to the rampart on the right side of the 
gates of Madrid is a long and spacious building which is 
a quarter of a mile in length, and about 400 feet wide, 
3 stories high, and is built of large square stones. It is 
the national armory. 

On the right of the sea gates, and about a quarter of a 
mile distant, 300 hundred yards within the rampart, is 
a high hill, the summit of which is crowned with a cas- 
tle, denominated the Moorish castle, which is said to 
have been built and possessed by the Moors some hun- 
dreds of years ago. It is a strong and commanding for- 
tification, and it might, with the greatest propriety, be 
denominated a citadel, as it is within the city ; but it by 
far excels an ordinary fortification of that kind, being 



60 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

fortified by nature and impregnable. It commands the 
city, its ramparts and all the harbor. 

The city contains six monasteries and one nunnery ; 
each monastery has from 30 to 40 priests and friars. 

There is an existing misunderstanding which is prev- 
alent with many persons relative to the proper order of 
priests and friars. I have therefore deemed it advisable, 
for the benefit of the reader, to define the orders. 

A candidate for the priesthood must be in posses- 
sion of a thorough collegiate education, this being indis- 
pensable to his admission to the convent ; after which 
he has to wait a number of months to go through his de- 
grees, previous to ordination to the order of the priest- 
hood. Having been ordained, he is then qualified to 
perform the duties of his office, which is to say mass, 
confess the people of their sins, inflict penance, and to 
forgive sin in the name of the Lord ; which the individ- 
ual believes to be done as soon as the benediction is con- 
ferred upon him. 

A qualified priest has his head shaved round, one inch 
above the ear, and four inches in diameter on the crown 
of the head. This leaves the hair to resemble a crown, 
which is emblematic of the crown of thorns worn by our 
Savior at his crucifixion. 

As to the friars it is indispensable that they possess 
piety equal to that of the priests, in order to be qualifi- 
ed for admittance into the convent. A liberal education 
is not required of a friar, nor can can he attain to the 
holy orders of the priesthood. His duty is to perform 
the domestic labor of the convent. His garments differ 
from those of the priests ; his head is not shaved. The 
friars solicit alms for the convent. This duty is per- 
formed by some on foot and others on horse-back. 
Those who perform this duty on foot, take the image of 
the patron saint of the convent to which they belong, 
and travel the country round in quest of alms for the 
saint. These collect money only, but those on horse- 
back collect grain of all descriptions and any thing that 
the benevolent public gratuitously bestows upon them. 

I have visited these convents in succession. Their 
private and dining apartments are not remarkable for neat- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 61 

ness. I have visited their churches a number of times. 
They are extremely beautiful, being ornamented with 
rich paintings and costly images. Their altars are also 
richly decorated with gold and silver candle-sticks and 
holy vessels. Their mass meetings, their high feasts, 
and their yearly religious processions exhibit a degree of 
grandeur seldom seen in a Protestant country. 

The Spanish mass commences on the Sabbath at 4 
o'clock, A. M. and continues until 12 o'clock, having a 
different priest each hour. After the bells have done 
tolling and the congregation has assembled, a number of 
large wax candles being lit on the altar and on the great 
arch over the altar, which contains the great images, 
the priest makes his appeal ance, dressed in costly robes 
and enters within the gates of the altar ; approaches the 
altar and opens the Latin bible which is placed on a 
suitable stand and always on the altar. The priest then 
commences by reading a Latin prayer, to which the as- 
sistants, who are school-boys previously taught, occa- 
sionally respond, Amen. During the continuance of the 
service, he often puts the palms of his hands together 
and raises them and his eyes towards the great image, 
bowing his head and knee at the same time. He then 
passes to the other end of the altar, bowing his knee ev- 
ery time he passes or repasses to read in the different 
bibles. The assistant then gets the Esop and sprinkles 
the place and the altar with holy water. The priest 
still continues to read, and the assistant occasionally re- 
sponds, Amen. The assistant then brings to the priest 
the censer of incense, which betakes, and passes to and 
fro before the altar several times, swin^in^ the censer at 
the same time, from which a cloud of smoke ascends. 
After this, the assistant brings to him a box of holy wa- 
fers, out of which he takes one; holding it in his fingers, 
he prays over it, then facing the congregation, he raises 
it above his head. At the same time, a little bell 
is rung by the assistant, and the congregation bow down 
and strike their breasts as an emblem of repentance; the 
congregation all this while remain on their knees, as 
there are no seats of any description. After this the 
priest to the saint above the altar, raises the holy wafer, 



62 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

which is stamped with the Savior's image, and bows as 
he takes one half of it into his mouth, the wafer being; 
twice as large as a dollar, and by far too large to be in- 
troduced into the mouth at once. The assistant, being 
on his knees, rings a little bell to notify the congrega- 
tion, and they beat their breasts during the time the 
priest is partaking of the ' real body of Christ,' which 
they say, is in the wafer, or ostia, after it has been 
blessed by the priest. After this the assistant blings 
the golden chalice, which very much resembles a wine- 
glass in shape, but larger, being one foot high and oth- 
erwise in proportion. This is the holy vessel, out of 
which the priests partake of the wine which they be- 
lieve is the real blood of our Savior, after it has been 
blessed by the priest. The priest having partaken of 
the very body and blood of our Savior, according to 
their faith, the assistant rings a little bell again, which 
produces a different sound from the previous one, it be- 
ins a signal for the congregation to rest, after having 
been on their knees for three-quarters of an hour. The 
male part of the assembly then rise up and stand on 
their feet, while the females sit on their heels. 

After a few more ceremonies, the priest faces the con- 
gregation, puts forth his hand, makes the sign of the 
cross and pronounces the benediction. The mass is 
then at an end. 

The next scene worthy of notice here is their re- 
ligious processions, which are performed with great 
pomp. 

The procession is chiefly made up of the members of 
the different monasteries and some citizens. The streets 
through which the procession is to pass, are thickly 
strewed with green rushes and flowers of every descrip- 
tion. This gives it a gay and fascinating appearance. 

The order of the procession is as follows : First. 
The full statue of our Savior on the cross, borne by 
eight men. After this follows between 2 and 300 Naz- 
arenos or Nazarenes, who are dressed in the original 
Nazarene style. This dress consists of a long purple 
robe, with a smooth cap of the same cloth, which is 
three feet high and in the shape of a sugar loaf, with a 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 63 

piece of the same cloth over the their faces in which 
are two little holes for windows. 

In the second order of the procession, the image of 
John the Baptist, is borne by eight men and followed 
by the highest order of priests, who are denominated 
clarions. They were dressed with long black gowns, 
short narrow blacks ephods, with a square piece of blue 
embroidered velvet on the breast, a four cornered black 
mitre, and high shoes with very large silver buckles. — 
No person can be admitted as a candidate for this order 
of priests excepting he be of a high, rich and indepen- 
dent family. 

In the third order of the procession is the image of St. 
Peter in full stature, borne by eight men, followed by 
the priests of that order, who are denominated capuchinos. 
Their robes consist of a long mixed woolen gown, with 
large sleeves with pockets, sufficiently large to hold half 
a peck of green peas, and round the neck and on the 
back part of the head, is a hood used instead of a hat. 
Round the waist is a black horse-hair girdle with a num- 
ber of knots worked on it. They also wear a rosary 
which is composed of large beads at the middle of which 
hangs a wooden cross six inches in length and beautiful- 
ly set with pearls. On the feet, high hemp sandals. 
Their beards are a foot long, and depicted, disfigured, if 
not sanctified countenances. 

In the fourth order of the procession, the image of St. 
John was followed by the priests of that order, who 
wear long light and black robes, over which they have 
a white loose Ephod, and on their heads a large rimmed 
black hat ; on their feet high thin shoes, and round their 
waist a black leather strap and buckles. 

In the fifth order of the procession, the image of St. 
Joseph is followed by the priests of that order, v\ho wear 
long white robes, with long black and light ephods 
tightened round their w r aists with a white hemp cord. 
Their heads were ornamented with white broad rimmed 
hats, and on their feet light shoes, with small silver buck- 
les. 

In the sixth order of procession, the image of St. 
Francis, in full stature, is followed by the priests of that 



64 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

order, who wear long, coarse woolen blue robes, with 
long peaked elbow pockets, and a large peaked hood on 
the back of their necks, a substitute for a hat. Round 
their waists a hemp girdle full of knots, and on their 
feet white hemp sandals. 

In the seventh order of the procession the image of 
St. Mary is followed by the priests of that order, whose 
robes are white and fine ; on their heads a broad rimmed 
hat, and on their feet thin shoes, with middle sized sil- 
ver buckles. 

On either side of the priests, the whole length of the 
procession, the citizens followed, each bearing a large 
lighted wax candle, from four to five feet in length, and 
three inches in diameter. 

There is an existing tradition which very much ope- 
rates on the minds of this credulous people. It is this: 
It is said that any person, bearing a lighted candle in 
the procession, whose light by chance should happen to 
be extinguished before the termination of the procession, 
is destined to die very soon. 

I have stood by and have heard the remark made by 
many a spectator, whenever any person passed by who 
had been so unfortunate as to lose his light, that he must 
die soon. 

Respecting the nunnery I have no information to im- 
part, as there was no admittance to it, and the nuns are 
invisible to every eye except that of the bishops and 
priests. But notwithstanding this I have seen several 
nuns in the streets of this city, but they were from those 
cities which the French had captured, from which they 
had made their escape. They were dressed in white 
long woolen robes over which they wore a black robe 
and a long close black veil, through which it was impos- 
sible to discern any traces of the face excepting the eye- 
balls sparkling through two small holes. 

I shall now endeavor to amuse the reader by impart- 
ing some interesting information relative to a Spanish 
masquerade. A Spanish masquerade is a yearly feast, 
which to the Spaniards is a season of universal hilarity, 
all classes of society participating without exception. I 
shall here attempt to impart no information as to the rea- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 65 

son which led to the celebration of this feast on the three 
particular days. It will only be my object to describe 
a Spanish masquerade as it exists or as it existed at that 
period. The masks are made of all sizes and descrip- 
tions, suited to all faces and all ages. There is no 
particular fashion or rule to be observed in relation to 
dress. All are at liberty to choose their dresses and 
masks as their fancy may dictate. This without doubt is 
obvious to the spectator as his eye meets the lively 
throng of thousands of individuals, who for their ow 7 n 
gratification, have chosen different and indescribable dres- 
ses. 

The main object to be accomplished by those who 
participate in a masquerade, is the modification of the 
dress, behavior and voice to such an extent as to escape 
personal recognition, even by their most intimate friends. 
For this purpose they disguise themselves in a thousand 
indescrib able ways. Middle aged persons choose dresses 
which would be more suitable for young persons, and 
young persons those which would be more suitable to 
the aged. Women dress in men's attire and men in wo- 
men's. It is not unusual for members of one family to 
be enjoying each other's company at the same dancing 
ring, and yet not be aware of each other's presence. 
You w 7 ill not unfrequently see members of both sexes 
decorated in Turkish attire, riding upon mules, selling 
dates, as their character. The men have silk Turbans 
on their heads of various colors, long false beards, their 
mouths generally ornamented with long Turkish pipes 
reaching to the ground, out of which issues and ascends 
tobacco smoke. Others are disguised in the attire of 
Arianos or caravan drivers, with large leather bottles 
hanging to their saddles, which are filled with the best 
of good wine, while in their hands some of them hold 
a long tin gun, into which they blow to discharge its 
contents. 

The next thing which attracted my attention was an 
old looking masker, dressed with a fisher's coat, holding 
in his hand a bamboo fishing pole with a string attached to 
its end on w 7 hich was a small round cake. On the right 
he held a short stick with which he struck the rod. Be- 
9 



66 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

fore him were about twenty boys who kept constantly 
jumping at the cake with their mouths open endeavoring 
to catch it, and if any succeeded it was his as the reward 
of his labor, but if any attempted to possess themselves 
of it by any unfair means they were rewarded by the 
old masker with the weight of his stick. 

Another thing which attracted my attention, was six 
smart looking maskers, whose dresses resembled the 
dresses of harlequins. They had a large white cloth 
and in it a full size man, made of rags, dressed in the 
like attire as themselves. These maskers amused them- 
selves by tossing their rag man into the balconies amid 
the young ladies who are generally out witnessing the 
scene. Sometimes the young ladies would seize it as 
their prize and endeavor to conceal it from them, and 
thus amuse themselves at the others' expense. But this 
seldom took place although it was attempted in very 
many instances, as they were supplied with two scaling 
ladders, by which means they would immediately scale 
the balcony and recover their amusing object. 

The next and most interesting scene to my youthful 
mind was the Gigantio e La gig ant a. These were two 
great figures, representing a giant and giantess, who made 
their appearance in the midst of the great concourse, 
looking down upon the crowd from their towering bights 
as if they had been like the pigmies, mentioned in Gulli- 
ver's travels. 

This imitation of the ancient fabled overgrown inhab- 
itants of our earth was so perfect in its construction, that, 
had we lived in an age when giants inhabited the earth, 
we should have found it a difficult task to have discov- 
ered the deception at a distance of 200 yards. These 
unusually wrought figures were so ingeniously construc- 
ted as to admit motion when operated on by an inward 
agent. The feet moved forward and backwards and the 
arms were capable of every motion. The head moved 
apparently as easy as though it had been in reality a 
Jiving head. In each of their right hands they held a 
talking stick which they seemingly used quito handily. 
My attention being so intensely attracted by the sight 
of these unusual beings I was unavoidably drawn by 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 67 

them and I mingled with a throng of boys and maskers 
which followed and surrounded them as they went. I 
followed them in the throng about a mile toward the 
centre of the city. At last they made a stand and I 
forced my way as near to them as possible. It was not 
until then that I became convinced of the deception. I 
then ascertained that the visible parts of the figures were 
composed of very fine paste board, so completely formed 
and adapted to the human form as to admit of no rival- 
ry. I drew nearer to the male figure who apparently 
stood deeply engaged in conversation with a citizen. On 
approaching this monstrous human form I ascertained 
that there was actually a voice proceeding forth from 
some part of the figure, which on strict examination I 
ascertained to proceed from the abdomen. On a yet 
stricter examination I discovered the mouth and eye 
holes, which discovery led me to the conclusion that these 
figures were operated on by persons inclosed within. 

After the sun has descended the maskers retire from the 
bustle of the street to large and suitable halls, fitted for 
the occasion, to spend the evening in a social dance. — 
This is generally the course adopted within a city, but 
in the suburbs they pursue a different course. They on 
all occasions of this kind, the streets being wide, form 
large circles before their doors, with benches and chairs 
in the midst of which they perform their dancing. The 
instruments of music to which they dance are la Gitur- 
ra e la Manrubia; the former is a large instrument with 
eight or nine pairs of strings which are played by the 
fingers ; the latter is small and it has four or five strings 
and is played with a small stick. The dancers keep to 
the tune as near as possible, the males snapping their 
fingers and the females playing bass Castanaters or bra- 
kers, which are made of hard wood and in the shape of 
a cockle shell. They are tied to the thumb with a hand- 
some ribbon to support them, and being thus secured, 
they apply the four fingers to them, which produces a 
rattling noise which greatly animates the dancers and 
assists the music. 

In this manner the feast is kept for three successive 
days, which is the lawful and appointed time. Rut it is 



68 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

proverbially said, that while we are in the midst of life 
we are in death. This world is the theatre of life ; man 
is the actor and death the changer of the scene. To- 
day we are invited to the house of feasting to drink of 
the overflowing cup of rejoicing ; to-morrow to drink 
deeply of the bitter cup of affliction. Thus it was with 
us. We had been much delighted with the recent in- 
teresting scenes which we had witnessed. But oh ! how 
solemn the thought, that after witnessing and feasting on 
such a cheering and stirring scene, that we should be 
called to witness immediately after a scene revolting to 
our nature and terrific to mortality. 

The scene to which our attention was now invited, 
was the public execution of three unfortunate English 
deserters from the army, who, having been apprehended 
and tried were condemned to be publicly shot, as an ex- 
ample to others. This is the inhuman and barbarous 
punishment which the spirit of war deals out for that 
which may be no sin in the sight of God. The day ap- 
pointed for their public execution having arrived the 
troops marched without the city early in the morning to 
witness the dreadful and melancholy scene. I stood at 
the gates of Madrid and beheld the troops as they pass- 
ed. In the rear were the unfortunate victims, the ob- 
ject of our commiseration. They were escorted by a 
small guard. After them followed three coffins born by 
twelve of their men. Oh ! reader, what could have 
been the hidden thoughts of their minds and the feelings 
and emotions of their hearts ? Where is the pen that 
can depict or the tongue that can tell the agonizing emo- 
tions of their hearts. The troops, having arrived at the 
appointed place, halted and formed in a concave line. 
The appointed guard which was to perform the dreadful 
duty stood arranged without the line and in the centre 
of the concave, waiting for the dreadful signal to fire. 
The poor, trembling convicts stood in front of the troops 
without the concave, facing the guard from whom they 
momentarily expected to receive the mortal shot. All 
this while the troops stood motionless and a deathly si- 
lence pervaded the ranks. Every eye was fixed on the 
commanding officer who stood a few paces from the right 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 69 

wing ready to give the dreadful signal of death. At last 
the dreadful signal was given ; the guard fired ; the vic- 
tims fell ; a momentary struggle and life was extinct. 
The bodies of the poor fellows laid lifeless on the" sod. 
The troops from the left wing commenced the line of 
march by the remains of their unfortunate comrades. This 
was done in order that the example might be fully im- 
printed on their hearts and make a deeper and more last- 
ing impression. I beheld until the very last soldier, the 
sergeant of the guard, marched by. At that moment 
one of the unfortunate victims of the law of war weltering 
in his blood, raised himself and reclined on his hand. 
At this unexpected event, the sergeant made a stand 
and discharged into his head the contents of his gun, 
which apparently was provided for the occasion. This 
unexpected and heart-rending scene produced indescriba- 
ble emotions in my mind, such as I never experienced 
before. I could not help exclaiming: "Oh! that mm 
might be humane to his fellow man." 

As I have given the reader some account of the Eng- 
lish Gipsys, it will now be my object to give him some 
information relative to the supposed origin and peculiar- 
ities of the Spanish Gipsys. Having resided for three 
months in the village of Si* Antonio, which is three miles 
from the city ol Carthagena, and during the time, had 
a good opportunity to acquire the requisite knowledge 
as I resided in the midst of this class of people. 

Los Gitanos or the Gipsys of Spain, originally emi- 
grated from Egito or Egypt, consequently ihey have 
been properly denominated by the Spaniards Gitanos, 
the interpretation of which is Giptians. 

The Spanish Gipsys are a peculiarly distinct people, 
not unlike the Jews in this particular, as they contract 
no matrimonial alliances with any but their own people : 
and if they were so disposed it. would be utterly impos- 
sible, as they are held in contempt by all classes of so- 
ciety. 

With respect to their religious views, they without 
exception embrace the whole of the Catholic faith, but 
like other classes of society they do not strictly adhere 
to their professions, the consequence of which is great 



70 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

immorality. With regard to their domestic habits, they 
are rather inclined to indolence and uncleanliness, in 
which they sink beneath even the lowest classes of the 
Spaniards. 

Another of their characteristics is their peculiar pro- 
pensity for dancing, and the peculiarities of their dances 
which greatly differ from those of ths Spaniards. The 
instrument of music to which they generally dance is 
La Sumbomba, which is composed of an earthen ware pot, 
sufficiently large to contain three or four gallons. Over 
the mouth of this pot is a kid skin, with a reed placed 
and fastened in its centre with a piece of wire. To pro- 
duce music with this instrument, the hand is slid up and 
down the reed which produces a rumbling noise, which 
constitutes the music. 

Another trait which peculiarly characterizes the Los- 
gitanos is that they are the greatest jumpers in Spain, 
having become so by constant practice from childhood. 
I have witnessed this practice over one hundred times 
while residing with my master in the village of St. An- 
tunio. Their dress greatly differs from that of the Span- 
iards. Their jackets and breeches are richly ornament- 
ed and trimmed with silver or gold spangles according to 
their several abilities. La montera or the cap which 
they wear is made of silk velvet and is richly adorned 
with embroidery and small silk tassels, and is made in 
the shape of a cocked hat. The vest is beautifully 
trimmed and setoff with four rows of silver bell-buttons. 
The shoes are also set off with a pair of silver or gold 
buckles. This is a description of their Sunday dress. 
On other days of the week their dresses are not so cost- 
ly and fantastical. With regard to their honesty and 
veracity they are not to be relied on and are therefore 
looked upon by their nearest neighbors with a jealous 
eye. 

Another prominent feature by which they are charac- 
terized is their business, by which they obtain a subsis- 
tence, for they all have the same employment. I have 
not seen or heard of a Spaniard's being engaged in the 
business. The business to which we have alluded is 
the shearing of asses and mules, which they perform 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 71 

with ease and dexterity. Some of the more wealthy 
are, to some extent, engaged in dealing in horses and 
other animals, and they are acknowledged to be very 
shrewd in their business, which generally proves profit- 
able to them. 

Another peculiarity which characterizes the Los Git- 
a?ios, or Gipsys of Spain, with a few exceptions, is their 
complexion, it being darker than the darkest of the 
Spaniards. 

During our continuance in St. Antonio we witnessed 
much both in the city, village and country around, which 
was interesting to us all. Having laid in that port four 
months, and the ship being ready, again put to sea, and 
having a favorable breeze, steered our course for the 
Rock of Gibraltar. We sailed along unmolested until 
we were apprized by our mast-headman, of two large sails, 
apparently ships of war, which were rapidly coming up 
with us. The officers of the watch immediately brought 
their spy-glasses to bear, and soon reported them to be 
ships-of-the-line. At 10, A.-3VI., the strange sails were 
within three miles distance, on our weather-beam. The 
weather being clear and the sea smooth, we could dis- 
tinctly perceive the whole of their hulls, which loomed 
up very high above the level of the sea. 

Several conjectures now arose among the crew as to 
the possibility of their being French ships of war, escap- 
ing from Toulon and making their way to the west of 
France, through the straits of Gibraltar. Had this been 
the case, we must unavoidably have been taken and 
made prisoners of war; but a kind Providence had 
wisely ordained it otherwise, These conjectures were 
partly strengthened by the ships' going about, which 
brought the other side to our view, by which we discov- 
ered that they presented different aspects, the larger of 
the two being painted red on one side, and white on the 
other ; red being a favorite color in the French navy. 

These ships were now stretching across our bows and 
nearing us at every swell of the sails and roll of the sea, 
and yet they had not displayed their national flag, not- 
withstanding ours had been flying for some time. Soon 
it was perceived, that the ships displayed English 



72 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

colors ; and the larger of the two, exhibited French col- 
ors under the English, a demonstration of her being a 
captured vessel. 

The smaller of the two ships now demanded our name 
and the place of our destination, which demand waa 
promptly and satisfactorily answered. We continued 
making signals to each other, until we had obtained the 
desired information which was cheering to our minds. 
We had learned that the smaller of the two ships was 
the Victory, of 74 guns, the very ship that was foremost 
in the battle of Trafalgar, and which at the time of that 
memorable battle, bore aloft the flag of that invincible 
and illustrious hero of the Nile, Lord Nelson. The 
prize-ship was the Rebolia, a French 84, mounting 90 
guns, and manned by 800 brave Frenchmen. The Re- 
bolia was a new ship, bound to France and just out of 
Venice, when she fell in with the Victory and the Wea- 
zel. The former mounting 74 guns and manned by 500 
men, and the latter mounting 20 guns and manned by 
120 men. 

At the time the fearful encounter took place between 
these two floating castles, the wind was light and the 
sea smooth, which was rather favorable for their work 
of destruction and blood. The battle lasted for two 
hours without cessation. The cannon incessantly and 
mutually roared, and swept as with the besom of de- 
struction hundreds of hands, red with blood, to the ocean 
of eternity.* 

The sea became perfectly calm, while the ships lay 
motionless and ungovernable on the bosom of the ocean 
which was crimson around them with the blood of the 
wounded and the slain. While thus floating, seeming- 
ly motionless, without a breath of air to swell their sails 
and yet striving to conquer, the little Weazel, which 
had kept aloof in the commencement of the battle, now 
swept under the stern of the Rebolia and opened a 



# Oh ! that men could see their folly and become suffi- 
ciently wise to ' cast their cannons into plow-shares and 
beat their swords into pruning hooks and learn war no 
more.' 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 73 

raking and destructive fire, which the gallant French- 
men could not withstand. They made every possible 
effort to drive the Weazel from her position , but all in 
vain. Some 6 or 8 guns were brought to the stern to 
bring them to bear upon the brig, but her stern being 
very much shivered to pieces, afforded no shelter to her 
men. The fire from the brig was so severe and de- 
sructive, that in less than an hour, over 300 brave French 
mariners were swept away by its fury into the world of 
spirits. 

There was but one alternative for this brave enemy, 
and that was, either to sink or surrender to her foe. She 
chose the latter and became a prize to the Victory and 
Weazel. 

After the capture of the Rebolia it was ascertained 
that she had sailed out of Venice suitably prepared, and 
for the special purpose of taking these two vessels, of 
which she had frequent information, as they were block- 
ading the Gulf of Venice. 

We received this information as these two ships 
passed us, on their passage to England. There, I sub- 
sequently became acquainted with some of the Victory's 
crew, and the particulars of the action. We proceeded 
on our passage, and arrived safe at Gibraltar where we 
came to anchor and waited orders from the admiral to 
proceed to the next port of destination, which was 
Cadiz. But in consequence of the French, who were 
then actively employed in besieging that great and im- 
portant city, we were under the necessity of lying in 
this port until the siege was raised by the sallying out of 
the English garrison, then under the command of Gen- 
eral Graham, who, in concert with the Spanish General, 
Lapena, defeated them on the hights of Barossa. 

While lying in this port, we were under the necessity 
of witnessing the frequent and furious attacks of the 
French, on the several towns along the Spanish coast. 
Tariffa, near the strait of Gibraltar, was beseiged and 
assaulted by the French for several days, but it being 
chiefly defended by the English, they were under the 
necessity of retreating from it with great loss. 



74 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

Algesiras was also desperately assaulted for a number 
of days and nights in succession, and it was the general 
opinion of competent judges, that the French would 
have been successful, had not the English garrison, 
from the fortress of Gibraltar, extended to them asist- 
ance. 

St. Roque, or Roche, a large town on the plain, was 
also assaulted and bravely defended, by the united ef- 
forts of the Spaniards and the English garrison. These 
towns, which were visible to our view, were attacked in 
succession, and so complete and determined was the pur- 
pose of the enemy, that for three weeks in succession, the 
coast exhibited, night and day, a continued scene of 
battle. 

While lying in this port we enjoyed the usual privi- 
lege of visiting the city every sabbath, which after be- 
ing so long confined on board, was refreshing to the 
body and cheering to the spirits. These privileges were 
improved in acquiring a knowledge of this great and 
important fortification. 

We continued in this port 17 weeks. My previous 
acquaintance with the artillery-men whom we had brought 
out and landed at this place, proved beneficial to me in 
my researches, as they were kind enough to permit me 
to enter and examine the fortifications. This was a priv- 
ilege, denied commonly to all excepting the naval 
officers. 

The Rock of Gibraltar is a peninsula, rising from a 
level with the sea to 1,500 feet above. Its extreme 
length does not exceed 10 miles. The back part of it 
is perpendicular and inaccessible. This part, notwith- 
standing its preeipitousness is densely inhabited by ba- 
boons; and it is authentically stated, that they do not 
hesitate to attack a single person, whenever they have 
an opportunity. This information was given me by the 
artillery guard, stationed at the telegraph-house on the 
summit of the rock. 

The front part of the rock is protected by a stone 
rampart which is 50 feet high, and extends from the 
Mole-head to the Spanish lines, at which point is a very 
narrow neck of land, nearly level with the sea. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 75 

This narrow plain seems to be the only place easy of 
access which nature has provided, and this only extends 
about 100 yards from the perpendicular rock to the arm 
of the sea. To prevent the access of an enemy at this 
quarter, they have cut a wide and deep ditch, by which 
they have brought the sea against the perpendicular 
rock, which renders it impassible, without the assistance 
of boats. To protect this point, which is the weakest, 
there is built in front of the Spanish lines, strong and 
massive batteries, with very deep and wide ditches, 
strengthened in front by the arm of the sea, which beats 
against the perpendicular rock. In this rock, which is 
immediately over the batteries and over the narrow arm 
of the sea, are ceils excavated sufficiently large to 
contain a large gun each, with a sufficient number of 
men to work them, and ammunition and sufficient neces- 
saries of life to endure a long siege. There are great 
number of cells of this kind all over the rock which com- 
mand all the fortifications below, and are inaccessible to 
an enemy. I have often stood in front of these places 
in the rock, viewing the advantageous position of the 
guns wondering with admiration, how they could have 
ever succeeded in getting those guns up in such difficult 
places, where there was no passage, except a zigzag 
narrow foot-path, cut in the rock, about eighteen inches 
wide. 

On the rampart, which extends from the mole-head 
to the Spanish lines, against whose base the sea is con- 
tinually beating, are a great number of guns with their 
muzzles continually pointing to the sea, bidding defiance 
to the united navies of the world. 

The city is built on the declivity and occupies nearly 
one half of its length of the rock, from its centre to the 
Spanish lines. It is hemmed in on three sides by the 
fortifications and its rear is protected by the perpendicu- 
lar rock. The city has one principal street, running 
parallel with the rock, from which, on either side, branch 
out a number of short streets leading up and down 
from the water. The houses are neatly built of stone 
and brick, after the Spanish and English style. Near 
and above the mole-head is a beautiful village, which con- 



76 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

tains two large barracks and a parade ground ; between it 
and the mole-head is the navy yard. 

While lying in port, we visited St. Michael's cavern, 
situate on the side of the road, a short distance from the 
telegraph-house, which crowns the summit of the mount. 
A party of us. having agreed to visit the ancient habita- 
tion of the saint, proceeded on our journey, immediately 
after our landing, toward the summit of the mount. 
On our arrival at the cavern, we entered its ancient and 
venerable mouth, and descended into a large space about 
50 feet in diameter and 25 feet in hight. Its sides, 
from which projected a hundred ragged rocks, favored 
the form of a quarter ©f a circle. Its top was decorated 
with a great number of crystals, hanging in clusters, 
which resembled bunches of grapes on the vine. It 
was very damp, caused by the continual dropping of 
water from above, which formed several small pools. 
After viewing this spacious part of the cavern, we pro- 
ceeded down the declivity, in the back part of the rock, 
passing and crossing small pools of water as we went, 
groveling in the f dark, while the cool drops trick- 
ling from above, made us very uncomfortable. More 
than once, I wished myself out of the place. But, not- 
withstanding difficulties, we descended until we came to 
a pool of water, which completely arrested our progress 
and around which we could find no passage in conse- 
quence of the deficiency of light. 

By this time we had proceeded down the declivity, 
between four and five hundred feet from the mouth of 
the cavern ; but finding our progress arrested, we com- 
menced retracing our steps and soon regained the large 
room of the cavern, where some of our party amused 
themselves, for a short time, in knocking off pieces of 
concealed stone, which they considered to be valuable, 
as curiosties, to take home. 

As we came out of the cavern our attention was at- 
tracted on our right hand by two large flat stones which 
were bedded in the ground close upon the ridge of the 
mountain. We proceeded to them to satisfy our curiosi- 
ty, but on approaching them, to our surprise, we discov^ 
ered that their surfaces were adorned with ancient wri- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 77 

ting, which bore not the least resemblance to our modern 
chirography. It is the opinion of the learned that these 
stones must have been placed there some hundreds of 
years ago, but by whom or for what particular purpose 
no one that 1 have ever discoursed with on the subject 
has been able to give me any satisfactory information. 
There are, however, some conjectures in relation to them. 
Some suppose that the remains of the saint who inhab- 
ited this retired spot must have been interred there. 
Others imagine that they are some old Jewish tables, 
and others that they are some ancient Moorish inscrip- 
tions. In the midst of these multifarious conjectures, I 
have been left in total ignorance about the truth and my 
opinion is that I shall ever remain so. 

From the Cavern w r e proceeded along the ridge to the 
summit of the mount, at which we soon arrived and were 
met by the artillery-men who courteously invited us 
in the house to rest our wearied limbs, after which we 
examined a large flat place on which were two very large 
guns, and how they could have succeeded in getting 
these guns to the summit of the mount, considering 
the difficulty of the road, was a matter of surprise to 
me. While I stood by the guns, viewing with admi- 
ration the surrounding scene two ships of the line, which 
were lying close in to the Mole-head, particularly at- 
tracted my % attention in consequence of their small ap- 
pearance at that distance beneath us. This led me to 
conceive the power of the two guns at their elevated 
and advantageous position and the effect which the shot 
fired from them must necessarily produce on the shipping 
beneath. 

We took leave of our friends and proceeded down 
the declivity by a narrow path which led us down to the 
Moorish castle, situated in the rear and above the city^ 
The castle bears no resemblance to a castle properly 
so called, but is merely a long stone building, one story 
high with many windows which were closed by shut- 
ters. Why this building has acquired the name of a 
castle, is more than I can define. The building was 
not at that time occupied for any purpose, neither have 
I been able to learn that it ever was by the English or 



78 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

the Spaniards before them. It was said that the Moors 
paid a yearly tribute to the English to keep the building 
shut up, but for what purpose this was done, if it ever 
was done, is more than I can account for, unless it 
was to render it memorial of their ancient trophies in 
Spain. 

On the following Sabbath we again resumed our in- 
vestigation of the cavern. -Accordingly having landed 
at the Mole-head we commenced our ascension toward 
the cavern to which we arrived at 10 A. M. After 
resting awhile from the fatigue of our journey we made 
suitable preparations for our descent. Having lit our 
candles and secured them in the lanterns with which we 
w 7 ere provided, we descended into the once recluse re- 
treat of the departed saint. We followed the leaders of 
the party round crooks and turnings and through small 
pools of water collected by the constant droppings from 
above. We proceeded in this manner for some time 
constantly descending toward the sea. After proceed- 
ing a considerable distance, it was concluded by our 
guides, as our lights had become dim in consequence of 
the deadness the air, it was best to retrace our steps, as 
it was probably dangerous to proceed any farther. 

It had been the original design of the party to have 
gone as far into the cavern as the British officer, who 
it was said left his gold watch here as an enticement and 
reward for any person who should venture as far as he 
had done ; but we were frustrated in our y designs and 
were under the necessity of relinquishing our enterprise 
and-returning without our anticipated prize. 

We retraced our steps to the mouth of the cavern, 
where we gladly arrived to enjoy the fresh reviving air. 
We then descended toward the Spanish lines, and after 
luxuriously enjoying a saltwater bath, we returned 
through the city to our ship. 

It was now seventeen weeks since we first cast anchor 
in the bay of Gibraltar near the Mole-head, during 
which time we had patiently waited the raising of the 
siege of Cadiz, our destined port. The seige now be- 
ing raised, we proceeded to Cadiz where we arrived and 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 79 

proceeded to Carraques or Creeks of Cadiz to take in 
great brass guns and anchors to convey to England. 

Las Carraque or Creeks of Cadiz are four in num- 
ber, leading out of the entrance of the harbor op- 
posite to the Castle of Pantilles which is a strong and 
beautiful fortification situated on the island of Leon and 
opposite to the island of St. Pedro or Peter. 

Having sailed into the Carraque we expeditiously 
commenced taking in our cargo, which was brought to 
us by small vessels. During our stay in the Carraque 
we were deprived of the usual privilege of visiting the 
shore, which was in consequence of being situated at a 
great distance from the towns. 

Having finished taking in our cargo, which was ac- 
complished in four weeks, we immediately sailed for 
England in charge of a small convoy of six transports. 
Our departure for England from the island of Leon, pro- 
duced in some home-longing minds, a joyful anticipation 
of a re-union with their relatives and friends after the 
absence of a year. We proceeded on our passage with 
a favorable breeze until we arrived in sight of the mouth 
of the river Tagus, off which we perceived several vessels 
sailing out ; and as we were sailing across each other, 
we soon approached sufficiently near to discern each na- 
tional flag. Our crew were somewhat surprised at the 
display of two American flags on board of two large 
ships near us. The exhibition of these flags produced 
a momentary hilarity among the crew, thinking that we 
should secure these two vessels as our lawful prize, be- 
ing then engaged in an unnatural war with America. 

On perceiving the American flag so boldly flying near 
us our captain immediately sent a boat on board to re- 
connoitre the vessels, and after a thorough examination 
of them returned to the ship bringing the news that 
they were licensed ships and therefore they were per- 
mitted to pass on unmolested. 

We continued on our passage toward home, amid 
prevalent light winds and calms, which lengthened out 
our passage beyond the calculation and expectation of 
our captain, who was apprehensive of making a long 
passage. Being rather scant of water, he deemed it ad» 



80 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

visable to put the crew on an allowance, sufficient for 
the actual demands of nature, had every person receiv- 
ed his just proportion ; but this was not generally the 
case. The water being distributed by messes, every in- 
dividual belonging to the mess, had unlimited access to 
it, in consequence of which, those who indulged their 
appetites more than usual with salt beef, became thirs- 
ty, and having; access to the water, drank a double al- 
lowance. Others indulged in drinking a little more grog 
than their proper allowance, which also created an undue 
degree of thirst ; and they also, in their turn, would 
have recourse to the water, and in this manner a great 
deal of suffering was inflicted, which might have been 
prevented. My sufferings on this occasion were intol- 
erable ; being a small boy, it was with difficulty that I 
could at any time obtain a half pint ; and very many 
times I obtained none at all. 

On one occasion when I was thus suffering with a 
severe thirst, it being about 10 o'clock, P. M., some of 
the men, who were alike sufferers with me, contrived to 
get some water, but where and how they got it, yet re- 
mains a mystery to me. The night being very dark, it 
was by mere accident that I discovered them, lying 
down by the booms and secretly indulging their refresh- 
ing draught, I sat down by one of them, who was the 
cooper of the ship and a messmate of mine, and to whom 
I used to give my allowance of grog, and asked him to 
give me some water, which he did, after they had fully 
satisfied their own thirst. For this favor I was very 
grateful, as it revived my spirits, although it was no 
more than a half pint, and that so muddy that the beasts 
of the field would have rejected it. A few days after 
this, being thirsty, I went to the keg to obtain some 
water, but found it empty, and having no means by 
which to obtain any, I suffered intolerably during the 
greater part of the day. At 8 o'clock, P. M. so severe 
was my thirst that I could no longer resist it. I then 
went into the ship's head and drew a pail of salt-water, 
of which I drank, — I think without any exaggeration — 
two pints. This gave me some relief from my suffering 
condition, although I did not relish the draught, which 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 81 

laid heavy on my stomach for some time. We contin- 
ued on our passage, and after the lapse of seven weeks, 
we arrived and cabt anchor at Spithead and waited or- 
ders from the admiral to proceed to our destined port, to 
deliver our cargo. 

On the day following our arrival, we received orders 
to proceed to Chatham, on the river Med way. The 
order was accompanied by 100 prisoners of war, 25 of 
which were Russians, and 75 Americans who were the 
crew of a privateer which had been taken on the skirts 
of the Bay of Biscay. Among the number of this crew 
were but 6 or 8 white persons, with the exception o: 
the officers, who were all white. 

As 1 had heard so much about the American war, and 
never had seen any Americans before, my attention was 
very much attracted by them, seeing that the most of 
them were colored men, a sight quite novel to me, hav- 
ing never before seen more than half a dozen blacks ; I 
concluded that white" men must have been scarce in 
America, when they sent that privateer to our coast. 
But I was struck with admiration, when I heard them 
talking as good English as those of the middle counties 
in England. 1 had previously understood that the 
American people descended from the English ; but I 
was at a loss to know how those colored men came in 
America and why they had not a language of their own. 
These few reflections occupied my mind while I stood 
before them examining their complexion and features, 
which interested me much. At last I ventured to ques- 
tion one of lighter complexion than the others, a young 
mulatto, who appeared more attractive and social than 
the others. It was from him that I learned the manner 
of their capture. 

We sailed with a small convoy, and being favored 
with a leading wind we arrived off Beachy-head where 
the wind headed us off the land. We had not been on 
this tack more than half an hour, when the officer of the 
watch reported to the captain a square-rigged vessel 
bearing down on us. Our captain immediately came on 
deck and commanded the gunner to beat all hands to 
quarters. This well known sound thundering in the 
11 



82 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

ears of old tars soon brought hammocks and tables down 
to the lower deck, and in less than ten minutes every 
man was to his post and the ship ready for action. Sev- 
eral night-signals were made to ascertain what she was, 
but to these there was no answer, which confirmed the 
prevalent opinion of her being a French vessel. 

The strange sail still bearing down upon our beam 
and within hail, our captain hailed her several times, 
but received no answer. The vessel was now within 
three times her length, on our weather-beam, and ap- 
peared to be a large sloop-of-war brig. Our captain, 
standing on the poop-deck, cried out, through the speak- 
ing-trumpet, ' Stand by your guns ; take aim!' : Stand by 
your weather braces ; heave all a-back,' which was in- 
stantly done. This he did to give our ship stern-way, 
in order to bring the vessel foul of us, and thus deprive 
her of crossing our stern and raking us, if she were an 
enemy. The captain of the brig, perceiving the imme- 
diate danger, cried out to the helmsman ' port your 
helm ! !' 

Our captain at the same time gave the word of com- 
mand, ( fire !' Fortunately for us and them, our offic- 
ers disobeyed the word of command, they having dis- 
tinctly heard the commanding officer of the other vessel 
give the word of command in plain English, and justly 
concluded that she was an English vessel, commanded 
by some obstinate upstart, and therefore withheld their 
fire ; for which act they highly deserved commenda- 
tion, which was afterwards bestowed upon them. The 
vessel was so near to us that she could scarcely avoid 
the danger without damage. In the attempt to get 
clear, she carried away her flying jib-boom, which caught 
our quarter gallery. As the brig passed our stern, our 
captain spoke to her commander with great severity, 
and added, that he would report him to the admiral, on 
our arrival at the Downs, for his unjustifiable conduct. 

I have merely stated the circumstance as it occurred, 
to exhibit to the reader the imminent danger to which 
haughty and unthinking men expose not only their own 
lives, but those of others, which are intrusted to their 
qare. This captain might have well avoided all the 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 83 

danger to which he unwittingly exposed the lives of his 
crew, if he had only been willing to comply with the 
dictates of reason'; which was, to have answered our 
signals. 

We arrived in the Downs on the following day and 
laid there one day and then proceeded toward the riv- 
er Med way, where we arrived in 24 hours — from thence 
to Chillicum ridge, where we came to anchor and sent 
the prisoners to the prison-ships which laid at this ridge. 
We then proceeded to Chatham to discharge our cargo. 
Having arrived there, we discharged three-fourths of the 
ship's crew, who were hired for the voyage, and the 
remaining fourth, which consisted of the officers, boys, 
and a number of long-servitude men, were put on board 
of a hulk to pass away the winter. Our chief employ- 
ment during the winter, consisted in keeping the ship 
clean, and occasionally in rowing the officers to and from 
the shore. 

Our captain and his lady, after passing the forepart of 
the winter on board, took a journey to Scotland, his na- 
tive land, and returned early in the spring, to make pre- 
parations to proceed on another voyage. 

I was one day surprised by the captain's cabin boy, 
while ] was deeply engaged on the lower deck, playing 
at marbles, with the unpleasant news, that I was not 
going in the ship the next voyage. I asked him how 
he knew. His reply was, that he had overheard the 
captain and his lady's conversation, which amounted to 
that. I w r as at a loss to know the reason why I should 
not be permitted to continue in the ship, being uncon- 
scious of having committed any act which would justify 
the captain in my dismissal. My mind became much 
depressed at this unwelcome news, and the more I 
thought of the subject the more it affected me ; and why 
should it not ? I was a destitute child, homeless, and 
friendless ; the ship to which I was attached, was my 
home ; depriyed of this source of subsistence, I should 
be exposed to the unkindness of a selfish world. 

In the afternoon, the same boy informed me that the 
captain required my immediate presence. I complied 
with the request, and entered the great cabin and stood 



84 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

trembling and motionless before tbe captain and his lady. 
Lady Ware instantly perceived the agitation of my mind, 
and smilingly said ; ( do not be alarmed, we are not go- 
ing to injure you in any respect.' ' We have sent for 
you/ continued she, ' to ascertain whether you would be 
willing to live with me in my house at Rochester. If 
you will, I will dress you in a handsome livery and send 
you to school every day.' At this kind and unexpect- 
ed offer, a visible glow of gratification overshadowed my 
countenance. I immediately answered that I was willing 
to serve her according to the best of my ability. 

Having given my consent to serve her, I was then 
advised by captain Ware to be in readiness to go on 
shore the following day. 

The next morning the green cutter was ordered along 
side to take the captain's lady and baggage ; and to be 
in readiness to put them on shore. 

I stood near the gang-way in readiness to be call- 
ed upon ; but in this I was disappointed. The captain 
and his lady went over the side, without saying a word 
to me. I was surprised at this, and did not know 
what to make of it, but was soon informed by one of 
the quarter-masters who was a particular friend of mine, 
of the whole mystery, which was this : Having many 
months before weighed anchor at the Nore and made 
sail on the ship, they immediately piped all hands to 
breakfast. The mess to which I belonged did not re- 
ceive their allowance, as soon as it was expected by 
them in consequence of the neglect of the mess-cook, 
whose duty it was to have every thing on the table 
in readiness for the men, for which they are excused 
from duty that day. 

At this time, when every thing was in a bustle, as I 
was going down the fore-ladder in the midst of the crowd, 
who should I meet with, but an old Scotchman, who 
was a messmate of mine. He inquired of me why I 
had not gone for the cocoa, a thing which I had never 
been requested to do before. I made no reply, not 
knowing what to say. At this he commenced swearing, 
and beating me, and said that I should not have any- 
thing to eat in the mess. I got clear of him as soon 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 85 

as possible, very much terrified and grieved at this un- 
deserved treatment. 

This was the first time that I had been abused since 
my departure from Mr. Miles, and I was so much affec- 
ted by it that I resolved at the time to fulfil his threat, 
consequently I did not eat any thing more in the mess. 
Some how or other the affair became known to the sec- 
ond master, but not in its true light. He was informed 
that I had taken the sulks and would not eat any thing, 
which was not strictly true. The consequence of this 
misrepresentation was that the second master being in- 
formed that lady Ware had made a choice of me to live 
with her, informed captain Ware of this occurrence, which 
had taken place several months before. In informing 
the captain he represented me as not being a suitable 
boy for her choice in consequence of my irritable dispo- 
sition. Thus the only favorable opportunity ever offer- 
ed me of acquiring an education was frustrated by de- 
signing and malicious men. 

It is impossible adequately to conceive of the magni- 
tude ol evil resulting from a misrepresentation of the 
truih. Sensible, of the irreparable injury inflicted on 
me, I have subsequently and frequently looked back to 
that unfortunate period with tears in my eyes. 

Having passed the winter merrily and comfortably on 
board the hulk, and the ship having received the neces- 
sary repairs to enable her to proceed on another voyage, 
she was again brought along side of the hulk to refit for 
the ensuing voyage. 

The ship having refitted and taken in her cargo she 
was then ready to be manned. The hired part of the 
crew was now shipped and the ship proceeded to Ports- 
mouth on her intended voyage, where we arrived and 
waited for a convoy to proceed to our destined port, 
which was Malta. This is an island situated in the 
Mediterranean, in possession of the English. 



86 LIFE AND TRAVELS 



CHAPTER VI. 

Departure from England ; encounters a gale in the bay of Bis- 
cay ; dangerous position off Cape Palos ; turtle soup ; water 
spouts amid the convoy ; makes the island of Malta.; descrip- 
tion of the place where St. Paul was wrecked:; enters the harbor ; 
description of Malta and its harbor ; position of the city of St. 
John and the town of Valetta ; description of St. John's church ; 
John the Baptist's skull ; the embalmed bodies in the Vaults"; the 
Queen's Garden ; horrible murder; departure from Malta; ar- 
rival at Gibraltar ; departure for England with a, convoy ; prep- 
aration for action ; chases the supposed enemy ; arrival at Ports- 
mouth. 

FOURTH VOYAGE. 

The convoy being now in readiness to sail, the Com- 
modore's ship, the Royal Sovereign, made the signal for 
sea which was immediately obeyed by weighing anchors 
and setting sail. We steered for the Mediterranean with 
a convoy of 12 sail of troop-ships and transports which 
were bound, some to Portugal and others to Spain. The 
passage was pleasant until we came into the border 
of the Bay of Biscay, where we encountered a most 
severe gale of wind, which continued to harass us for 
three successive days. Hitherto I had been a stranger 
to the dangers and sufferings arising from the effects 
produced by a severe gale of wind. I had experienced 
the sufferings of a shipwreck and had embraced an idea 
when I joined this great ship, that it would be impossi- 
ble for the sea to produce any serious effect upon it, but 
found by sad experience that I had been deceived in 
this. I soon ascertained that our great ship, as large as 
she was, was not a rampart against the mighty rolling 
billows. I also perceived that the small vessels of the 
convoy made better weather than the larger. This is 
owing to the heavy weight of metal which the larger 
ships carry above water, which is the cause of their roll- 
ing and pitching so heavily in a gale of wind. Howev- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. Bl 

er, there was no serious injury received by any of the 
ships arising from the severity of the gale excepting the 
Royal Sovereign, which sprung her bowsprit. 

The wind having abated its fury and having become 
favorable, we again spread our lofty sails to the pleasant 
breeze, which in a few days led us through the straits of 
Gibraltar into the Mediterranean Sea. We proceeded 
on our voyage with cheerful hearts, favored with a steady 
breeze, until we arrived near the Bay of Malaga, where 
our wind forsook us and left us in a calm to be driven 
by the current to and fro at its will. Being becalmed 
for several days, and having no controling power over 
the ship the current drove us close in to the Spanish 
main and near Cape Palos. We drifted round the cape 
into the elbow of the land formed by the cape, within a 
mile or two of the shore, but some of the small ships 
were a great deal nearer. While we were driving about 
in this perilous condition, not knowing what the ultimate 
result would be, our officers spied two ship-boats in shore 
of us engaged in taking sea-turtle. Our captain imme- 
diately ordered two boats lowered down and despatched 
in quest of these, then to me, unknown animals. In the 
afternoon the boats returned to the ship laden with 
very large turtles. They were soon discharged and 
hoisted to their places. 

Among the English people turtle-soup is considered 
one of the richest dishes. A number of turtles were 
slaughtered and dressed to make soup. After the sun 
had descended, it was served to the several messes. 
This refreshment was considered a mark of the captain's 
favor to the crew. 

The soup having been dispensed to all, many of the 
crew became noisily merry, having been making them- 
selves a little too free with old Jamaica. This merri- 
ment begun to increase in one of the messes, and I be- 
ing near at hand my natural curiosity attracted me to pass 
that way to ascertain what was going on, when of a sud- 
den, as I was in the act of passing, I received a tremen- 
dous stunning blow on the side of my head, which caus- 
ed me to reel several times before 1 could recover my- 
self to make my escape. Having recovered my feet I 



88 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

made my way good to the after part of the cabin, roar- 
ing and bleeding like a gored bull. The noise soon 
brought the doctor and some of the officers to my assis- 
tance, who took me into the dispensary to examine and 
dress my head, while some of the officers hastened to 
the scene of confusion to ascertain the cause of this un- 
warrantable deed. The master's mate soon returned 
having ascertained from the men who appeared to be 
very penitent that it was an accident, so the matter rest- 
ed. The wound on the side of my head was an inch 
long and was inflicted with a large quart bowl which 
broke in five or six pieces. Had the wound been inflic- 
ted three inches forward it must inevitably have proved 
fatal. This frivolous accident, probably so considered 
by the reader, has taught me a lesson that time cannot 
obliterate from my mind. 

In the evening a light land breeze sprung up which 
carried us a few miles farther off land, and there again 
left us to the mercy of the current. At ten o'clock A. 
M.j a number of water spouts were visible around us. 
At 12, some of them were so near that we became 
somewhat alarmed for the safety of some of the ves- 
sels. At 2, P. M., a spout sprung up in the midst 
of the vessels and about a quarter of a mile from us. 
The most of the squadron were not more than half that 
distance from it. But there were two ships which were 
so near as to be in imminent danger. Being in this peri- 
lous condition and the vessels still continuing to draw 
nearer, increasing the danger every moment, they saw but 
one way of escaping, and that was the breaking of the 
spout by firing cannon balls through, it which was 
about 150 feet above the level of the sea. Two ships 
opened a fire into the spout and continued it without re- 
laxation until their efforts were crowned with the desired 
success. We were thus saved from a watery grave. 

Towards evening we were favored with a gentle breeze 
which once more gave motion to the ship by which she 
became governable. We continued on our passage, fa- 
vored with a fine wind, which soon brought us in sight 
of the Isle of Sicily, a large and beautiful isle situated 
about thirty or forty miles to the north of Malta. Ear- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 89 

ly on the following morning we came within sight of the 
west end of Malta which is a small island off the end 
of the main Island of Malta. Having a good breeze we 
soon approached near the land along which we sailed, 
admiring its romantic beauty. As we passed the little 
sound which separates the two isles, the prospect drew 
the attention of most of the crew on that side of the ship 
next to the shore. Being anxious to ascertain the cause 
which led to this attraction I immediately made 
inquiry, and was informed that they were looking 
at the very spot where St. Paul was shipwrecked. I 
had previously been informed that Malta was the island 
on which this indefatigable, early pioneer of Christianity 
had been shipwrecked, but did not, at that time, antici- 
pate the privilege of viewing the spot where he had ac- 
tually been wrecked. I viewed the perilous spot ; it is 
situated on the south end of the island, it is a low and 
black iron-bound shore, which bore no trace of having 
ever been visited by any human being, it being scarcely 
suitable for a sea-gull to put its foot upon. 

We sailed by this ever memorable spot, and slowly 
proceded with a favorable breeze toward^ the harbor at 
which we arrived early in the afternoon and came 
to anchor at the entrance of the middle harbor. On 
the following day, having previously received orders, we 
passed up the middle-branch toward the arsenal, where 
we came to an anchor to discharge our cargo and to take 
in another for England. During our continuance at this 
place, which was some months, we were abundantly in- 
dulged with permission to visit the city of St. John 
and the town of Valetta. 

Malta is a name familiar to the christian world, as 
being the name of a barbarious island, on which the 
great apostle was ship-wrecked while on ship-board, 
bound to Rome to be tried before Ceesar for the faith 
once delivered to the saints. Malta was independent 
until Bonaparte took possession of it while on his pas- 
sage to invade Egypt. Shortly after it was taken by the 
English who still hold possession of it. The island may 
with propriety be denominated a barren 7'ocJc, being of 
itself incapable of producing a sufficiency for the con- 



90 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

sumption of its population. The harbor of Malta is 
scarcely to be surpassed by any in the Mediterranean 
for its adaptation for shipping, beauty, and its fortifications 
at its entrance. On the right is a massive rock rising 
gradually to the elevation of 250 feet above the level of 
the sea, the summit of which is crowned with the city 
of St. John, which extends along the harbor about a 
mile in length. On the declivity of this rock and at a 
distance from each other are three high and terrific 
stone walls, surmounted with cannons sufficient to repel 
almost any enemy. On the opposite side and near Bo- 
naparte's house are other fortifications also situated on 
high rocks which likewise impose a serious impediment 
to an enemy, as he has to receive the fire from both for- 
tifications at once. Asa ship enters the harbor, she 
opens on thejeft hand a long arm from two to three 
miles in extent, which is the first anchorage. The ship 
now bears away three points to the right and opens the 
whole length of the harbor, and on the right the length 
of the city, while her larboard side opens to the town 
and fortifications of Valetta which rise 100 feet above the 
level of the sea. The ship is now completely encircled 
by fortifications, but yet has not opened the arsenal har- 
bor. She proceeds as far as the centre of the city, then 
she opens the arsenal harbor, which is fortified on eithpr 
side and is in the shape of an elbow and from two to 
three miles long from its m )uth to its head, which is in 
the centre of the lowest part of the town of Valetta, at 
which is a large market house close to the water side. 
The town of Valetta includes both sides of the arsenal 
harbor. This town and the city of St. John are walled 
in, and a guard is stationed at the gates to prevent all 
English mariners from passing. On several occasions 
in company with others I endeavored both in the city 
and town to pass through the gates to view the country, 
but we were prevented on every occasion by the senti- 
nel who happened to be a Maltese. One day, being 
on a ramble on the Valetta side and strayed from the rest 
of the boys, having a desire to see the country I pro- 
ceeded toward the gates to endeavor once more to pass 
through them, if possible, and fortunately for me, just 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 91 

as I come to it, a drove of asses which came in another 
direction came up to the gates, and I immediately con- 
ceived the idea of mixing in with them and pass through 
if possible, unobserved by the sentinel. I did so and 
succeeded in my undertaking beyond my expectation. 
I then proceeded along the road which led me into the 
country, and which rose gradually to the general hight 
of the island which is from one to 200 feet above the 
level of the sea. I traveled about three miles in a south- 
erly direction and not finding any thing to attract my at- 
tention, the general aspect of the country as far as I 
could see from my elevated position being rocky and 
barren, I returned into the town by the same rout. The 
general plan and building of the city of St. John do not ex- 
hibit much taste or ingenuity. The streets are irregular 
and paved in the common way. The houses are chiefly 
built of stone and in the oriental fashion, scarcely rising 
two stories high. Having previously heard much said 
about the beauty and riches of St. John's church and 
particularly of the silver and gold gates, we became de- 
sirous of visiting it, to see those great wonders of the 
world. Accordingly, we proceeded to the church. On 
our arrival, by paying a fourpence to the person who 
was intrusted with the care of the building and the duty 
of attending to the visitors, the body of the church op- 
ened to our view. It is large and capacious and in ev- 
ery respect like a Spanish church. Each side is sup- 
ported by a row of marble pillars from two to three feet 
in diameter. The floor is beautifully ornamented with the 
finest of stone, which is richly painted and manufactured 
in such a manner as to be as lasting as the stone. On 
the right is another part of the church one third as large 
as the main building and represents it in every respect. 
After being shown the body of the church we were led to 
the right side of the building near the principal altar to 
a small cavity in the side of the building which was in- 
closed with glass and small iron bars. We were reques- 
ted to look into it, which we did to our surprise and as- 
tonishment. Here we beheld a human skull erect in a 
large silver dish. On its head was a crown of diamonds, 
each of which to the best of my judgment was half of 



92 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

an inch long and in the cavity of each eye was one of 
a larger size. We were informed by the trustee that it 
was in reality the skull of John the Baptist, which he 
affirmed had been there for some hundreds of years. 
This skull is held in great reverence by the Maltese, 
illustrated by the costly gems and jewels with which 
they have superstitiously ornamented it, as if they were 
doing great honor to the departed spirit of the Saint. 
Our guide then took us to the altar wh'ch in every 
eatholic church faces to the door, and there entertained 
us by exhibiting the silver grates or railing which encir- 
cles the altar from one side of the building to the other. 
The bars which were from five to six inches apart, 
spread in a circular form from sixty to seventy feet and 
were about one inch and a half square, and from six to 
eight feet high. He also showed us the place where 
the gold railing of the same size had stood before the 
altar, but which was taken by Bonaparte in connection 
with a gold gun, and sent to France in a French frigate, 
which was captured on her passage home by the Sea- 
horse, an English frigate of the same size and taken 
to England. The gold gate and gun were deposited 
in the Tower of London, where they have been 
exhibited ever since as an ever memorable trophy of the 
war. We were next led to the left of the altar down 
into a large and spacious vault, which borrowed its light 
from two or three windows which were level with the 
street. There we saw the embalmed bodies of the 
Saints which had departed this life some hundreds of 
years ago. They were in metal coffins, placed around 
the wall of the vault on stone butments built for the 
special purpose. The floor of the vault was handsome- 
ly flagged with the best of smooth stone. Beneath this 
large vault were three smaller vaults into which we de- 
scended by removing from each mouth a large stone, on 
which were written the name of those whose bodies had 
been deposited beneath. 

Afier having gratified our curiosity we ascended from 
the vaults and walked out of the church and bid fare- 
well to the trustee whom we visited on a subsequent 
voyage. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 93 

On the following Sabbath we took precisely the same 
rout, and after having satisfactorily visited the most in- 
teresting parts of the city, we proceeded to the Queen's 
garden, which is celebrated for its beauty and magnifi- 
cence. Having entered the garden to which there was 
free admittance, our attention was arrested by a canary 
nursery on the right of the garden which was built against 
the wall. It was constructed of thick wire and in the 
shape of a half moon with a small wall two or three feet 
high for its base. In it were a number of those beau- 
tiful little warblers, which when enjoying the blessing of 
liberty in their native clime, ravish the ear with their 
melodious notes. There were suitable little houses ap- 
propriated to their use. In the middle was a natural 
rock out of which issued a small spring of water which 
fell and splashed on the craggy part of its base. There 
were also small stumps of trees for the little warblers 
to rest upon, and in fact there was every requsitive to 
represent nature within the nursery which was calculated 
to make the little fellows happy ; but still it was a prison. 
On the opposite side was another nursery for another 
kind of bird , equally large and as handsome in every 
respect. We proceeded through the different walks 
amusing ourselves by visiting and admiring the beauty of 
every shady arbor until we had proceeded so far that we 
became apprehensive of missing our way. We imme- 
diately retraced our steps but soon ascertained that we 
had gone beyond prudence. After endeavoring for 
some time to find our w T ay out,our fears were at last re- 
lieved by the presence of the garden-keeper who led us 
out for which services we rewarded him with a few pen- 
nies. 

In this manner we usually spent the Sabbath, regard- 
less of the injunction, which says : " Remember the 
Sabbath day and keep it holy." But we were young 
and ignorant, and this was the example set before us in 
every port we visited, not only by our crew but by every 
crew, no matter of what nation. But since that period 
custom has taken a different course and the friends of 
humanity have great reason to rejoice in the rapid pro- 
gress which civilization and Christianity are making. 



94 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

While lying at Malta a circumstance occurred the par- 
ticulars of which [ cannot easily pass over as they are 
somewhat connected with my narrative. One evening 
just between twilight and dark as we were walking 
along on the outskirts of the town of Valetta, in a 
street which had low and mean looking houses on one 
side and a low stone wall on the other, designed to pro- 
tect the citizens from the dangers of the precipice, we 
heard from a distance in plain English the cry of mur- 
der. At this we took alarm ; notwithstanding we stood 
for a moment to listen,and again we heard the mournful 
voice. We immediately ran to a public house, a resort 
for English sailors. On the information we imparted, 
twenty men immediately proceeded with the greatest 
possible speed, conducted by us to the spot where we 
first heard the alarm. As we approached within a few 
rods of the place a great noise was heard and the cry of 
murder followed it. In an instant one and all ran with 
the greatest impetuosity against the gate which was fas- 
tened and brought it to the ground. The gate being down 
we all rushed into the small yard and sung out at the 
same time : "who is here ?" A voice responded, "save 
me or these villains will kill me." In a moment we 
rushed to his assistance and found an English sailor at 
the foot of a pair of back stairs with the back of a chair 
in his hand, weak and staggering with the loss of blood. 
Close by him was a female and a boy 15 or 16 years 
of age, lying lifeless on the ground with their brains 
knocked out. At the time two men from the upper 
part of the house, were seen making their escape over 
the tops of the houses which they could easily do, the 
houses in this street being very low and the roofs flat. 
Having learned the cause which led to the horrible deed, 
we immediately rushed up stairs to secure the murder- 
en, but we were too late ; they were gone. On enter- 
ing the apartment we discovered the effects of the first 
part of the horrible scene. It was a large room covered 
with clotted blood from one end to the other. On one side 
laid the corpse of a Maltese with his brains strewed all 
over the room. On the other side of the room was a 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 95 

cradle in which was an infant whose skull had been 
broken by a violent blow. Having obtained knowledge 
of all that had transpired, we immediately left the scene 
oi destruction and conveyed the wounded man to the 
water's side, where he was put into a boat and safely 
conducted to his vessel, a store-ship. 

In the course of two or three weeks, having partly re- 
covered from his wounds, he was brought to trial for the 
murder of the four persons we found lying in their blood. 
In his examination, he gave a very lull and satisfac- 
tory detail of the whole transaction from the commence- 
ment to the end. In his defence, he gave conclusive 
and satisfactory evidence to the court of his having 
committed the bloody deed in self-defence. The many 
and dangerous wounds which he received were suf- 
ficient testimony, and left no doubts on the mind of 
the couit, as to the designs of the Maltese, to mur- 
der him. In his examination, the prisoner made the 
following solemn declaration : That he, like ail English 
sailors, while in foreign places, was strolling about, and 
accidentally happened to pass that way ; that while in 
the act of passing by the house, the woman killed, made 

signs to him to come in. He went through the 

. . . ° 

gate into a little yard which led him to the stairs, on tire 

top of which he saw the woman. She then invited him 
up stairs. He accepted the invitation, and was led into 
the room where he was first assaulted and wounded by 
the Maltese. He farther stated, that he had not been 
in the room many minutes, when a man who came out 
of the other part of the house, entered the room and 
spoke to him in broken English, asking him if he want- 
ed some wine. His answer was, ' yes.' The Maltese 
replied ; 'If you give me money, I fetch.' That ac- 
cordingly, he gave him a quarter of a dollar, with which 
he bought two bottles of wine, and brought it to the 
house ; and they all sat down and smoked and drank 
merrily round, until it was gone. The wine being out, 
the Maltese said to him ; ' Jack, wine gone, you want gin 
and wine; 1 fetch, you give me money.' He gave him 
a half dollar, and one of the Maltese went and procured 
two more bottles of wine and a half bottle of gin. They 



96 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

continued drinking until they all became quite merry. 
By this time it had become nearly dark, and he was 
about taking leave of his drunken companions, when one 
of them said ; ' Jack, you no go yet — you got money, 
you give money pay for wine.' " Oh, no," he replied, 
" I have given you sufficient money to pay for it twice 
over !-'■ ' Oh no, Jack, you lie ! you no give money!' 
He was going toward the door, when one of them gave 
him a severe blow which knocked him down ; and then 
they fell upon him, but he, being a stout man, turned 
one of them under him and throttled him very severely. 
While thus engaged, the other wounded him severely 
with a knife. Finding himself wounded, he let go his 
hold and seized a chair, which he broke in pieces in de- 
fending himself against the two, who were now endea- 
voring to stab him with their knives. He defended 
himself for some time against their united efforts to kill 
him. But at last he received another wound, which so 
exasperated him, that he ran furiously at one of them. 
Being closely pursued by the other, from the opposite 
side of the room, he turned quickly on his heel, and 
with a full swing, struck his pursuer on the head, who 
immediately fell. The other, seeing his companion 
down, made his escape through another part of the house. 
Being thus exasperated, wounded, and all over a gore 
of blood, he immediately commenced making his way 
out of the door, which had been previously fastened. 
In his way, he saw a cradle in which was a little babe ; 
and being furiously enraged at the time, he, thoughtless 
of the innocence of his victim, inhumanly deprived it of 
life. This, indeed, was an act of barbarity, and for 
which he was highly censured and condemned. This 
was the only act, as he subsequently declared, which on 
reflection, filled his conscience with remorse ; and to ex- 
piate himself from it, he earnestly declared he would 
have given the world, had it been in his possession. 

Having succeeded in forcing the door and gain- 
ing the little yard, he proceeded to the street-gate to 
make his escape, which was two or three rods from the 
foot of the stairs, but to his surprise, he found it strong- 
ly secured. Finding that he could not succeed in open* 



Or THOMAS W. SMITH. 97 

ing the gate and seeing himself closely pursued by the 
Maltese, he turned and met them near the foot of the 
stairs, and after a terrible conflict he succeeded in driv- 
ing them back. After this, they made several attempts 
to get down, but without effect. Finding it impossible 
to get down without endangering their lives, they com- 
menced a new mode of warfare, throwing down upon 
him every thing that could be found to injure him, 
or to take his life. By these missiles, he was severely 
wounded. Finding that they could not succeed in this 
manner of depriving him of his life, they sent the wo- 
man round to the back of him to attract his attention 
and thus to afford them an opportunity to fall upon him 
and to put an end to his existence. The woman actu- 
ally succeeeded in getting round upon him and slightly 
stabbed him in the back. Finding himself attacked in 
the rear, he turned and with a blow broke her skull. 
This gave the Maltese an opportunity to rush down 
upon him, which they did, but w T ere soon beaten 
back by him. The next thing they contrived to attract 
his attention was the sending of a boy, 15 years of age, 
with a long knife behind him to stab him if possible. 
The boy got behind him, while the Maltese renewed 
their exertions to gain the bottom of the stairs. This 
gave the boy a more favorable opportunity, who was urg- 
ed on by the Maltese who were talking to him all the 
while. After several attempts, the boy succeeded in 
wounding him in the back, he being deeply engaged 
in striving to prevent the men from getting offthe stairs. 
Feeling that he was stabbed, he turned quickly round, 
and at one blow knocked his brains out, and thus termi- 
nated the boy's fate. The Maltese, thus defeated in 
every effort recommenced throwing the things out of the 
house upon him. In this they were engaged, when we 
first heard the noise, and the gate was forced open by 
those of us who came to his assistance. 

The case was brought in manslaughter, and the sen- 
tence was, six month' 's imprisonment. The surviving 
Maltese were also tried and imprisoned. 

The ship being now ready for sea, she was hauled to 
the outward roads to be ready to embrace the first fair 
13 



98 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

wind. Here we laid a week waiting for a fair breeze, 
during which time we exercised, for improvement, with 
the great guns and small arms. 

At last we were favored with the long expected 
wind, and after having laid in this port several months, 
we set sail for the land of our birth. We were several 
weeks on our passage to Gibraltar, where we stopped 
to water our ship for England. 

We sailed with a convoy of eight transport ships, un- 
der our protection and that of a sloop-of-war brig. We 
proceeded on our passage unmolested by dangers until 
we arrived on the skirts of the Bay of Biscay, where, 
*one night, we were put in a state of excitement by the 
appearance of a strange sail in the midst of our convoy. 

There had been a rumor currently reported among 
the navy oflicers, that there was an American frigate 
cruising in those latitudes, and this was supposed to be 
the identical vessel. 

As soon as the information was received, it went 
through the ship like electricity. All hands were im- 
mediately on deck making preparations for action, be- 
fore the word of command had been given by the officers. 
The captain immediately gave orders to beat to quarters 
and clear the ship for action, which was done in a very 
few minutes. 

All hands being now to their quarters, all the guns 
were double-shotted and the lower and top-sail-yards 
were secured to the mast-heads and the preventive brac- 
es were put to the yard-arms. Meanwhile information 
was given to the commodore by nisht-signals, who im- 
mediately bore down upon us and laid by us all night 
with all hands to quarters. Signals were made for the 
convoy to close ; consequently they all closed in and sur- 
rounded us and the commodore, seeking protection. 

All hands felt a deep solicitude for the dawning 
of the day, that we might discover our intrepid ene- 
my, if such there was in our convoy. Before the dawn 
of day our officers were stationed at the mast-head with 
their spy-glasses to catch the first glance at the intruder 
and disturber of our peace. The first rays of light from 
the glittering orb had scarcely darted from the eastern 



OF THOMAS W SMITH. 99 

horizon, when the officer from the mast-head discover- 
ed and reported a strange sail, right a-head, two miles 
distant from us. 

In an instant all hands were called to make sail, and 
in twenty minutes all useful sails were crowded on the 
ship. 

Our commodore had previously advanced a-head of 
the convoy lo cut off the strange sail by the break of day, 
but in this he found himself unexpectedly deceived, 
for instead of being a-head of the stranger, he was actu- 
ally one mile a-stern, but, being a superior sailor, he 
gained upon her slowly. Both vessels crowded all pos- 
sible sail for the chase, which lasted upwards of five 
hours. 

Though the breeze had increased considerably since 
morning, yet it was not sufficiently strong lo benefit us 
on this desirable occasion, as we anticipated that an ac- 
tion would take place, and we felt an anxious solicitude 
to give the commodore all possible assistance against our 
common foe. 

We could perceive the crew of each ship, as we sail- 
ed near each other, crowded on the fore-castle, watching 
with deep anxiety the motions of the two vessels, which 
were now closely approaching within the range of ac- 
tion. Neither of the vessels had as yet displayed its 
national flag. 

The vessels were now parallel, and at a short distance 
from each other, with their guns run out and ready to 
fire. They now commenced to shorten sail, which was 
an indication of a prepartion for action. The studding 
and royal-sails, being in the course, were now hauled up, 
and the c pride of England' was hoisted to the peak. 
Two shot were now fired by the commodore across the 
stranger's bow, which brought him to the conclusion to 
hoist his national flag, which he did, to his peak end. 
We were rejoiced and highly disappointed to see her 
display a Russian flag instead of an American, as w T e 
had anticipated. 

All our anxiety now subsided, and the fearful, antici- 
pated action and bloody slaughter was buried in the 
ocean of peace and serenity. 



100 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

We continued our passage, which on the whole prov- 
ed to be a pleasant one, until we arrived at Portsmouth 
which was our destined port. There we discharged our 
cargo and immediately proceeded to take in another. 

Having taken in our cargo we immediately receiv- 
ed orders to proceed to Spithead to make suitable 
preparations for sea. Accordingly after the usual pre- 
parations were made, we embraced the first favorable 
wind and proceeded to the fortress of Gibraltar. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 101 



CHAPTER VII. 

Departure from England ; arrival off Gibraltar ; abuse of men on 
board of the Admiral's ship ; sails over to Algesiras ; celebration 
of the peace of 1814 ; arrival at Portsmouth. 

FIFTH VOYAGE. 

As my fifth voyage, which was performed in six 
months, consisted only in going to Gibraltar and back to 
Portsmouth, I have deemed it advisable to give a con- 
cise history of the principal transactions only, as a 
minute narration of it would only be a repetition of in- 
formation already imparted to the reader. We sailed for 
Gibraltar and after having enjoyed a prosperous passage 
arrived at that place in two weeks. We proceded to the 
Mole-head, where we moored ship within a few rc-ds of 
the St. Johns, admiral-ship of that port. Here we laid 
four months, discharging and loading , during which we 
were indulged with the usual privilege of visiting the 
shore. 

While lying by the side of this noble bulwark of Old 
England, bearing the flag of Admiral Linsey, who, by 
the by, was proverbially one of the greatest tyrants in 
the British navy, we were under the disagreeable ne- 
cessity of frequently witnessing the most cruel and heart- 
rending scenes of abuse and inhumanity. This hard- 
hearted tyrant was so rigid in discipline, that for ev- 
ery trivial cause, he would flog his men with great se- 
verity. 

Having finished taking in our cargo, the ship was 
hauled out of the Mole to the outward anchorage to wa- 
ter for England, but in consequence of the plague's 
breaking out in the city, we were compelled to leave 
the port and sail for Algesiras, a Spanish port on the 
opposite side of the bay where we came to anchor and 
finished our preparations for sea. % 

Previous to our sailing over to Algesiras, the welcome 
news of peace with France arrived from England, which 



102 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

was received with manifestations of joy and rejoicing. 
The event was celebrated with a magnificent illumination, 
discharges of ordnance and fire-arms, and a display of 
blue-lights and rockets. 

The ship being now ready and being favored with a 
good breeze, we took our departure, and steered for the 
white cliffs of Old England, with the joyful anticipations 
of meeting our relatives and friends once more on the 
shores of time. 

Our passage proved to be the shortest we had ever 
made. 

After arriving at Portsmouth, the ship was immediate- 
ly discharged of her cargo and went through the neces- 
sary repairs. We then commenced taking in her cargo 
for the Mediterranean again. The ship being at length 
loaded and ready for sea, we proceeded to Spithead. 
While lying at that place we took in 400 foreigners, 
of different nations, who in consequence of the peace, 
were liberated from loathsome French prisons. These 
men had been taken prisoners under the English flag, 
and now as peace was concluded, they were returned 
to England, she being under obligation to return them to 
their homes, which task she honorably accomplished. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 103 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Departure from England; becomes conversant with three foreign 
languages; arrival at Lisbon in Portugal • a description of the 
city of Lisbon ; a dangerous place for foreigners ; murder com- 
mitted by the Portuguese boatmen ; arrival at Port Mahon ; de- 
cription of the harbor and its entrance ; description of the city 
and Georgetown ; visited by the Spanish admiral ; information 
of Bonaparte's departure from Elba ; arrival at Malta — ' 
plague there ; arrival in England. 

SIXTH VOYAGE. 

All necesssary preparations being made and the ship 
ready for sea, we once more spread our wings to a favora- 
ble breeze, which swiftly conveyed us to our destined 
haven. During the continuance of this voyage which 
was 14 months, by a strict application and practice, I 
became conversant with the Italian and Portuguese lan- 
guages ; and notwitstanding the advantages of a better 
education which the other boys possessed, and the pro- 
ficiency which they made in the languages, I excelled 
them on many occasions, and was chosen in preference 
to any of them as an interpreter for the officers. At the 
termination of the voyage, I could speak three lan- 
guages besides my own. After a few days we arriv- 
ed at Lisbon and came to anchor opposite the Black 
Horse Square. There we landed the Portuguese whom 
we had on board. In Lisbon we laid several weeks, 
during which I was permitted to visit the shore on 
the sabbath, and frequently, with the officers, as an in- 
terpreter. 

Lisbon is a large city, built on a plain extending be- 
tween two and three miles along a branch of the river 
Tagus. It contains a population of 2 or 300,000, and is 
the capital of Portugal. 

The principal streets are wide and handsomely paved, 
particularly Gold and Silver streets, each of which is 
chiefly occupied by gold and silversmith's shops. 



104 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

The Queers palace is situated between the city and 
Balim castle. It is a large and magnificent building, 
near which are many beautiful gardens. There is a 
square near the water side which is called Black Horse 
Square, which derives its name from a black horse and 
rider which are erected in the middle of the square. 
The horse and rider, as I have been informed, represents 
king Joseph of Portugal on horseback. 

Lisbon is a corrupt city, and dangerous for foreigners 
to walk in after dark. This is in consequence of the 
non-enforcement of the laws on a'set of murderous ruf- 
fians, who as soon as it is dark, lurk about the by-places 
through which the sailor's have to pass to go on board 
their ships and whenever they see an opportunity to rob 
and murder a man they do not hesitate to embrace it. 
Some of our men while returning peaceably to the ship, 
were attacked and wounded by those villains on several 
occasions. 

About this time there were a number of vessels lying 
in the river and there were several men missing from 
the ships. No one could give an account of their dis- 
appearance. At last a discovery was made which put 
every one on their guard. It was ascertained th?t the 
Portuguese boatmen, in many instances, took the advan- 
tage of the boat-keepers. Whenever they found a sin- 
gle man keeping a boat, two or three of them would 
unite in knocking him down and throwing him overboard 
and then rob the boat of all its contents. 

Another discovery was made. A stout-hearted sai- 
lor, who belonged to one of the transports lying down 
the river, having spent the day on shore, employed a 
boatman to take him on board of his ship. The night 
was dark and it was about 10 o'clock P. M. when he 
embarked on board of the boat which was rowed by the 
boatman who appeared to be a lusty fellow. After row- 
ing his boat about three fourths of the way to the ship 
he let go his oars and said, "Jack, I put rudder on 
boat, you steer along side your ship." As he said this 
he walked aft, took the rudder from the bottom of the 
boat and shipped it, then took from the same place a hea- 
vy tiller and struck the sailor on his head which deprived 



OF THOMAS W.SMITH. 105 

him of all physical power for a few moments. He then 
rifled his pockets and threw him overboard, after which 
he took to his oars and rowed his boat on shore. The 
poor sailor was not wholly deprived of strength or rea- 
son, and being a good swimmer he succeeded in gaining 
one of the ship's cables by which means his life was 
preserved. The news of this transaction went through 
the shipping as on the wings of the wind, and every sea- 
man in the harbor was admonished by it. They could 
now go on shore and be on their guard against a similar 
attempt. But the sailor who had been thus maltreated 
without a provocation was determined to have his re- 
venge ; accordingly he went on shore on the following 
Sabbath prepared for the occasion. Having spent that 
holy-day as sailors generally do, he walked down to the 
stairs at the same time of the night as he had previously 
done. There he saw the identical boatman ; he em- 
ployed him as he had done on the previous Sabbath, to 
take him on board. The fellow rowed until he came 
to about the same distance from the shipping as he had 
been when he committed the previous depredation. He 
then as he had done before let go his oars, and repeated 
the same language that he had done before. The sai- 
lor seeing plainly what the fellow was about to do, and 
having a cocked pistol in his left hand and a dagger in 
his right, he immediately stood up and presented the 
pistol to the boatman and commanded him to row the 
boat to the ship or he w 7 as a dead man. The terrified 
boatman immediately obeyed the mandate and rowed the 
boat along side of the ship. The ship's crew being al- 
ready waiting for the long expected boat secured it and 
compelled the man to get on board of the ship and there 
secured him. He was then examined by the crew who 
compelled him to confess the number of men he had 
thus destroyed. The fellow pretended not to under- 
stand but they soon enlightened his mind by tying his 
hands behind him and putting a rope round his neck, 
rove to the yard-arm. This severe treatment brought 
the fellow to a sense of his immediate danger ; finally, 
after a long struggle of begging for mercy, he reluctant- 
ly confessed he had killed four Englishmen in the man- 

14 



106 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

ner previously described. They then took the murder- 
ous ruffian, gave him a most severe beating and threw 
him over board ; and as the tide was, at the time, rapid- 
ly running out to sea, in all probability he was drowned, 
as there were no tidings heard of him after. The boat 
was stove and sent adrift and probabably went to sea. 

Having laid here several weeks, we now received or- 
ders to proceed to the next port of destination, which 
was Malaga, where we soon arrived and came to an- 
chor and landed all the Spaniards we had on board. 

From Malaga we proceeded to Port Mahon where 
we arrived in safety. Whilel going into Mahon a cir- 
cumstance occurred which cannot silently pass over. 
On leaving England my master took it in his head to 
mess with the second master of the ship and two or three 
masters' mates. This union created for me an amount 
of labor and care which did not justly belong to 
me. Instead of attending on one person I had 
now to attend with another boy on six. On leav- 
ing England our duties were divided by the second mas- 
ter in regular order. One was to cook one day while 
the other was to perform the duty of setting the table, 
cleaning the cabin and brushing the officers' shoes, fyc. 
We performed our duties cheerfully and always gave 
general satisfaction to the officers until this unfortunate 
day. I had now been on board nearly three years, dur- 
ing which I had received the kindest treatment with 
one exception, from officers and men. It was ear- 
ly in the morning when the ship made the land and our 
usual breakfast time was at half past 7 o'clock and it was 
evident that the ship- would enter the mouth of the har- 
bor three quarters of an hour previous to the time of 
breakfast. This day it was my unlucky turn to do the 
cooking and I had hung the kettle before the range, not 
being able to obtain a place on the top. The second 
master informed me that we should have breakfast before 
the time this morning and to make haste and get the 
cocoa boiled. I immediately obeyed the mandate and 
commenced like the other boys to blow and poke the 
fire to make it burn, but the fire which was made of 
English coal, was on that morning unusually dull, as 
the old Portuguese cook had paid no particular regard 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 107 

to it. By the time the ship had approached within a 
mile of the harbor, the second master being desirous of 
getting his breakfast before the ship entered, he sent for 
me to know if the cocoa had boiled. I informed him 
that it had not. He then requested me to bring it as it 
was. I did so. Having brought it he took off the cov- 
er of the pot and began to stir it with a spoon. As he 
was stirring it I perceived something white floating in 
the cocoa. He inquired what it was. My reply was 
that I did not know. He then ordered me on deck and 
at the same time ordered the master-at-arms to give me 
-a severe flogging which he did and faithfully performed 
his duty. While he was beating me with the double 
part of the fore bunt-lines, a rope one and a half 
inches in circumference, I cried out like a lusty fellow, 
My noise brought the captain to the quarter deck, who 
instantly called the master-at-arms and the second mas- 
ter to an account for their conduct, and gave them a se- 
vere reprimand, with the injunction never to do the like 
again without his approbation. My master after this 
questioned me with regard to the piece of fat which was 
floating in the cocoa. I gave him to understand that I 
was totally innocent of the crime alledged to me, that 
the second master had wrongfully inflicted a barbarous 
punishment on me, which I did not deserve. He then 
informed me that I was not to perform any more duties 
in the officers' cabin, but that I was to continue attending 
on him. After this he gave me charge of the dispensa- 
ry, to keep it in order and to deliver such medicines to 
the sick as he should direct. I was thankful, in one sense, 
that the circumstance had occurred, as it relieved me of 
a considerable share of unpleasant labor, but in another 
sense I have great reason ever to remember it, as I was 
most shamefully bruised in several parts of my body ; 
the marks were plainly visible 14 months after. 

We entered the harbor and proceeded to the arsenal 
where we came to anchor and fastened the ship to 
the shore. Here I was chosen as one of the crew for 
the captain's gig, as his regular crew were engaged in 
discharging the ship. The care of this boat now con- 
stituted the chief of my employment. Being thus em- 



108 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

ployed on the Sabbath I was deprived of the usual priv- 
ilege, granted to the crew on that day. 

The harbor of Mahon presents an insurmountable 
barrier to an enemy. It would be impossible for all the 
united navies of the world to enter, if it was properly for- 
tified. The land which you are compelled to hug, runs 
out on the left hand as you go in about a mile and rises 
with a rocky shore between one and two hundred feet 
above the level of the sea. This place might be made 
impregnable and impassable by ships as they are under 
the necessity of passing within 300 yards of the shore 
all the way. The entrance is not sufficiently large to 
admit two large ships abreast. After you pass the nar- 
rows you open the lower part of the harbor in a few 
minutes. In the middle of this part of the harbor, which 
is very beautiful is a large flat island with a hospital on 
it from which it derives its name. The harbor on the 
right hand side is in the form of a half circle ; the land 
rises up gradually decorated with its green verdure and 
beautifully, separating into globular hills. The land on 
the left hand side of the harbor from the entrance to the 
town is a perpendicular rock, rising about 200 feet above 
the level of the sea. There is on the opposite side of 
the harbor two or three half moon coves which are gen- 
erally occupied by ships of the line as anchoring grounds. 
On the same side of the shore the surface is level for 
miles excepting where the town is situated which 'is a little 
hilly. The town is considerably large ; the houses are 
built after the Spanish fashion and present a neat ap- 
pearance. The streets are hilly and irregularly formed. 
Some three or four miles distant is another consider- 
able town, which by the Englsh is called Georgetown. 
Being desirous of visiting it, five of us boys started on 
an excursion, mounted upon asses, this being the only 
way of conveyance. With regard to their domestic 
habits and language they differ considerably from the 
Spaniards on the main. Their habits are much cleaner 
and the language bears no resemblance to the Spanish. 
They also differ in their dress, particularly the fe- 
males. At that time the Minorcans were very much 
dissatisfied with the Spanish government, and they felt 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 109 

desirous that the island might pass into the hands of the 
English, as they considered such a change would benefit 
them, as it had done on a former occasion when the En- 
glish possessed it. - 

The same afternoon of our arrival the Spanish Admi- 
ral conferred honors on us by visiting our ship. He was 
welcomed on board with a salute of thirteen guns. He 
was then conducted to the cabin by our captain and by 
him was handsomely entertained, but not being able to 
understand each other I was introduced into their pre- 
sence by the captain's steward, as their interpreter. Af- 
ter some conversation had taken place relative to the 
cargo, the admiral informed our captain, that the Empe- 
ror Bonaparte had made his escape from the island of 
Elba. This unexpected news very much surprised him, 
who not apprehending such an occurrence, exclaimed as 
he arose from his chair, " Can it be possible ?" The 
news instantaneously went through the ship and produ- 
ced considerable excitement among the crew, who ap- 
prehended a recommencement of hostilities. After the 
termination of the visit, the admiral left the ship in the 
usual form and according to his order we proceeded to 
discharge that part of the cargo which was destined for 
the Spanish fleet. 

Having discharged the cargo we proceeded to Malta 
according to orders and arrived there in safety after 
having enjoyed a prosperous passage. 

After our arrival we made no delay, but immediately 
commenced discharging the ship ; but before we had half 
performed this task the plague broke out in the city 
and town, and raged to such a degree, that thousands 
were swept away as with a torrent to the world of spir- 
its. This alarming and disastrous disorder interrupted 
our employment, and broke off our connection with the 
shore. This was a severe trial for sea-faring men; to be 
confined within the wooden walls of a ship and at no 
greater distance than 20 rods from the shore, was more 
than they could well endure. 

This destructive malady having subsided at last and 
the fears of the people allayed, we again commenced 
discharging the ship. We now had the usual privilege 



110 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

of revisiting the shore and viewing those interesting scenes 
in which we had taken great delight on a former occa- 
sion. 1 was highly gratified one day with the pomp 
of one of those catholic processions which passed within 
a few rods of the ship. It was conducted in the same 
order as the one I had previously witnessed while at 
Carthagena in Spain. 

Being at length ready for sea and under orders for 
home we embraced the first favorable opportunity, and 
after a passage of seven weeks we arrived at Spithead, 
where we were obliged, although all hands were in 
good health, to perform a vexatious quarantine of forty 
days. After this detention, having smoked and purged 
the old ship, we weighed anchor and proceeded up the 
the harbor to the arsenal jetty, where we discharged the 
ship. The hired men were paid otT and the ship was 
laid up with the remainder of the crew for a short time, 
to undergo her necessary repairs and then commenced 
taking in caro-o a^ain for Malta. 

During the voyage I had been advised by one of my 
mess-mates to 'leave the ship if I intended to do any 
thing to benefit myself, to bind myself as an apprentice 
for three years to a merchant vessel, in order to become 
acquainted with a mariner's duty, adding that I was a 
good sized boy and that when my time expired I 
should be sufficiently large to go before the mast and 
command a man's wages. I immediately embraced the 
idea and from that time frequently indulged myself with 
the hope of being liberated from a king's ship. Fortu- 
nately for us boys, we were paid at the same time that 
the hired men were. Had we been paid as on a former 
occasion we should not have been capable of carrying 
our plan into operation, as we were penniless at the time 
oi our arrival in England. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. Ill 



CHAPTER IX. 



Escape from his majesty's ship in company with Ellis : trials at 
Post Down Hill; Robin Hood's forest; arrives at the Elephant 
and Castle, London; goes to Greenwich; disappointed in not find- 
ing my parents ; sufferings and trials at London ; becomes ac- 
quainted with two boys who had been paid off from a ship of 
war ; after suffering privations, finally succeeds in obtaining a 
ship and is bound apprentice. 

There was a boy on board whose name was Ellis. His 
parents resided in Greenwich. This boy and I had cul- 
tivated an intimate acquaintance. One day as we were 
walking on shore he disclosed his intention of deserting 
the ship, and making his way home if possible. I then 
disclosed my intentions to him of leaving the ship the 
first opportunity and shipping on board of a transport. 
He advised me to go home with him to his brother and 
assured me of a home until we could get a ship to go to 
sea together. My answer was, that if I could rely on 
his assurance I w 7 ould gladly accept of his offer. Final- 
ly he promised so well and pressed me so earnestly, that 
I came to the conclusion to accompany him and abide 
the consequences. Accordingly we laid our plan in 
such a manner as would excite no suspicion. The ship 
was already loaded and was to sail in two or three days 
on another voyage. This we considered favorable to 
us, as the time being short, it would give no opportuni- 
ty of sending after us. 

At last the appointed day arrived. It was Sunday. 
We took the best of our clothes and put them into a 
bag. I had two common chests full of clothes and three 
uniform hats out of winch I took three suits of blue and 
a few other things. Our bags being ready we tied them 
together and secreted them in a dark place, ready to be 
lowered down into the boat as soon as she arrived under 
the bow port. It was about five o'clock, P. M., and 






112 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

the stage was to start for London at 7 o'clock, and we 
had to get our things on shore with a boat, and no boat 
was allowed to come along side of the ship. We were 
now placed in a very precarious situation, having to pass 
through the dock-yard gates as welLas leave the ship, 
and no sailor from any ship was allowed to pass through 
excepting with an officer, or by his pass. Fortunately 
for us, we being boys, had been in the habit of passing 
the gates, having permission to pass into the town to buy 
such necessaries as our masters might chance to want. 
This was favorable, as we could easily make an excuse 
in case the gate-keepers should make an attempt to stop 
us. Ellis, who was three or four years older and was 
better acquainted with those things than I was, went on 
shore at 5 o'clock to send a boat off for our clothing, 
with the precaution to drop under the bow unobserved- 
ly by the sentry and that he would find some one there 
who would be ready to drop the bags into the boat. I 
was to watch for the boat and make a signal for her to 
drop under the bow, and then after having deposited the 
clothing in her I was to watch for an opportunity to leave 
the ship and make the best of my way out of the navy 
yard into the city, where I should meet the stage at the 
sign of the Sheerhulk. With deep anxiety I watched 
for the boat, it was nearly six when she came under the 
bow and I dropped the bags and she started off unob- 
served by the sentinel for Common-head which was op- 
posite the Sheerhulk where Ellis was to meet her and 
take off our clothes. 

Now came with me "the tug of war." The officers 
were walking on the quarter deck and the sentinel on 
the jetty, I stood by the forechesty watching for an op- 
portunity to escape. The ship was then level with the 
jetty and I could easily step on shore from her. It was 
now nearly dark and my heart beat with deep anxiety 
for fear, that the stage would leave me behind. At last 
the officers went down to their tea and in a little while 
the sentinel walked toward the sentry box,when I imme- 
diately embraced the favorable opportunity, stepped on 
shore and before the sentinel could turn round I reach- 
ed a heap of timber, which was lying on the jetty and 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 113 

which reached along to a small building some distance 
from the ship. Having got safely behind the timber I 
watched the sentinel for a minute or two and then gain- 
ed the rear of the building where T was hid from his vis- 
ion. I now run all the way to the gates, which was 
over three quarters of a mile. But here there was an- 
other difficulty to encounter and that was the gate-keep- 
ers ; fortunately for me, however, they did not as much 
as speak to me ; but if they had, I had a story made up 
for them. It was this : that my master's lady had been 
taken suddenly ill and he sent me for some medicines 
for her. This I thought would pass. 

I had just got through the gates when Ellis met'me. 
" Come," said he, " we are waiting for you ;" and led 
me to the coach which was not more than five rods from 
the gates. It was now dark and we had scarcely got to 
the coach when a boy by the name of Knights, who had 
been watching our movements, came butt against us. 
" Holloa," said the driver, " are you going too ?" 
" Yes," was the reply. "Jump up then," said he and 
away we drove for London. We had not gone over a 
mile or two before the guard of the coach who sat with 
us in the after part of the coach, inquired if we 
had a liberty ticket. We answered in the negative. 
This gave him to understand that we were deser- 
ters. " Then," said he, • ■ I don't know how you will 
be able to manage it, to pass the press gangs without 
detection." Here was a difficulty which we very much 
feared, though we had calculated on it before we took 
the dangerous step. We had previously concluded not 
to deny the name of the ship, and if required to pre- 
sent a liberty ticket we were to answer that we had 
not any, as our captain had gone to Scotland and the 
second master from whom we had obtained our liberty 
thought that there was no necessity for us boys to have 
one,and particularly as we were volunteers in the service ; 
and only going away to stay for a w r eek. By these ans- 
wers we expected to succeed in getting clear. 

We soon came to Newtown, joining Portsmouth ; 
here we stopped at two or three places for passengers, 
and after leaving it, we had to pass over a bridge on 
15 



114 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

which a press-gang was stationed. To avoid this danger 
the guard advised us to get off and walk over the bridge; 
and as the evening was dark they would not be likely 
to hear or see us, and if they did we could tell them that 
we were ashore on liberty. This course was less 
liable to suspicion than riding on the stage, which they 
were sure to examine and all that rode in it. 

To this proposition we instantly agreed and according- 
ly we walked over the the bridge unobserved by any of 
the gang, but at the time, felt a deep anxiety for our pre- 
servation, which led us to walk with great caution so as 
not to betray ourselves. We walked about half a mile's 
distance before the stage came up to take us in. It was 
midnight when we arrived at Post-down-hill and at a little 
distance from its base was an inn, where another press- 
gang was stationed. The road is on the left of the hill, 
as you go toward London. The brow and summit are 
above you on the right and the road continues to encir- 
cle the hill as it descends to the level plain. On the left 
of the hill was a valley full of trees, and extending into 
the plain, and across the valley was a wall from ten to 
twelve feet high. It was deemed advisable by the guard 
that in order to escape detection we should alight, cross 
over this wall and then proceed among the trees over 
hedges and ditches, keeping the main road on our right 
at the same time, until we should pass the inn at which 
the stage was to stop to refresh the passengers and change 
horses. After passing the inn we were to turn into the 
road where the stage was to take us up. But in case 
that we should happen to miss our way and not come 
out to the road so soon as it was expected, he pledged 
his honor that he would stop the stage and blow his horn 
as a signal. 

Accordingly we alighted when the stage was about half 
way down the hill, and at no great distance from the wali. 
We descended by the side of the hill and proceeded 
among the trees to the wall. We were very much puz- 
zled to find a place to mount it. After separating our- 
selves along the wall for the purpose of examining it, 
Knights discovered a sloping projection. He informed 
us of it, and we hastened to the spot with all possible 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 115 

speed and commenced climbing the slope, which was 
about two feet wide. We soon succeeded in gaining 
the summit. We were then at a loss to know how to 
get down, as we were totally unacquainted with the 
depth and the ground on which we had to jump. We 
conceived the idea of tying all our handkerchiefs to- 
gether, for the lightest of us to descend, and as I was 
the smallest and the youngest, 1 was chosen for that 
purpose, and accordingly descended to the ground, 
which was too hard and too far for them to jump. I 
went a short distance along the wall and found a suitable 
place for them to descend without injury. 

The rattling of the wheels and crackling of the whip 
echoing through the valley, soon announced to us that 
the stage had staid at the inn the usual time and was 
again on its way. At this our hearts beat with fear of 
being left behind, as we ran from tree to tree and from 
hedge to ditch. The rattling of the wheels ceased and 
the echo of the guard's horn was heard. It was a 
cheering sound to our desponding spirits, as we were on 
the point of giving up all as lost. We still pressed for- 
ward with redoubled diligence through the thorn hedges 
to reach the object which we bad in view, the main road. 
At last our effort was crowned with success. Rejoicing 
at our deliverance, v<e again mounted on the stage coach. 
We were more than thankful for the kind advice and at- 
tention which we had received from our philanthropic 
guard, who had been the means of our safety and es- 
cape from the grasp of the tyrants, who fain would have 
enslaved us against our will. 

We rode on merrily for the remainder of the night. 
At break of day, we had the pleasure of seeing Rob- 
in Hood's forest ; and we were informed by the guard 
that this extensive forest was the one occupied some 
centuries ago by the intrepid Robin Hood and his gang. 
This forest is about one mile off from the Ports- 
mouth road, at a distance of about fifteen or twenty miles 
from London ; and as far as I could discover, occupied 
a pleasant and level position of ground. About six or 
seven o'clock, we arrived at Elephant's Castle in 



116 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

Southwark, London, where we alighted, this being the 
place lor the coach to put up. 

The guard reminded us of the customary obligations 
of passengers to him and the coachman, for which he 
said we ought to make them compensation. According- 
ly we rewarded him with 9 shillings for his philanthro- 
py, and the coachman 3 shillings for his fidelity and 
caution in the management of the horses. 

Knights who was going to Chatham, immediately got 
on the stage, which was then ready to start for that 
town. We parted and I have never seen him since. 
Ellis and I indulged ourselves with walking about and 
viewing the city until the afternoon, and then we took 
-the stage for Greenwich. 

We arrived at Ellis' brother's house, which was in East- 
street, East Greenwich, and there took up our residence 
for the present. I had not been there long before 1 as- 
certained that Mr. Ellis was merely a lodger in the house, 
and not the landlord, as he had been represented to me 
previous to my departure from the ship. Mr. Ellis oc- 
cupied one room and boarded himself. He was kind 
enough to accommodate us with lodgings, while we 
boarded ourselves in the best way that we could. 

When we arrived at London it was about the time of 
the fairs, which are yearly held in that vicinity, and 
among these the celebrated Greeenwich fair was to com- 
mence on the following Monday. 1 was highly gratified 
to hear of this, as I anticipated the hilarity of the occa- 
sion. The day after my arrival in Greenwich, I was ac- 
companied by Ellis to Lewisham to see if 1 could dis- 
cover my mother and grand-parents. 

My heart thrilled with joyful emotions as 1 approach- 
ed the town of my nativity, with the fond hope of once 
more meeting and beholding my parents, after an ab- 
sence of six years. But alas ! after diligent inquiry all 
over the neighborhood, we at last ascertained that my 
grandfather died two years subsequent to my departure. 
My grandmother and mother returned to Northumber- 
land deeply afflicted, among their friends, despairing of 
ever seeing me again. Pensive and sadly disappointed, 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 117 

1 returned to my lodgings to mourn my loss; but the 
buoyancy of youth soon overcame my sadness. After 
venting my feelings with a flood of tears I again united 
in the amusements of my associates, and have never 
since had the means nor opportunity of knowing w 7 here 
they are, or whether dead or alive. 

The time previous to the arrival of the fair, we spent 
in visiting various parts of the town and vicinity, in 
which excursions we acquired much information, min- 
gled with a degree of exalted gratification. At last the 
appointed day of the fair arrived. It was hailed by our 
youthful hearts with congratulations. Early in the morn- 
ing we visited the scene of bustle to witness the erection 
of swings and show-stands. Early in the afternoon the 
multitude commenced assembling, and at 4 P.-.M. the 
fair-ground was literally crowded with persons of both 
sexes and ail ages. The park is near, — the gates of 
which being thrown open on such occasions — it was 
at this time visited by thousands and thousands of the in- 
habitants of London. 

We spent three days in visiting the various shows, and 
swinging in the lofty swings, an excercise fraught with 
danger, but in which we took great delight. 

We next visited Bow fair, 7 miles from there, and on 
the opposite side of the river. The first day we were 
so much pleased with its various amusements, that, like 
hundreds of others, we totally neglected to provide lodg- 
ings for the night. We left this scene of bustle at 12 
o'clock at night, and then we had to ride about three 
miles before our arrival at the city. At half past 12, 
we alighted near White Chapel. Not a house was open, 
nor a light to be seen, except the street-lights and 
that of the watchman's lantern, and where to go to 
we did not know. We walked through the streets 
to obtain a night's lodging, not knowing of whom to in- 
quire, or where we might be accommodated. We walk- 
ed along with dejected spirits, and quite at a loss to know 
what to do. At last, accidentally, we came in contact 
with Orgeat pump, where we refreshed our drooping spir- 
its with a cool draught. While at the pump, a watch- 
man, going his rounds, interrogated us, as other's had 



118 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

done, and while talking with him, a tall, lusty and 
rough looking old woman came stepping along and as 
she was passing by us, the watchman spoke to 
her and asked if she could make it convenient to lodge 
us for that night. She replied in the affirmative, and 
accordingly we were led by her through a number of 
narrow and crooked lanes into a back street, which was 
dark and lonesome. When we got to the door we were 
commanded to take our shoes off; we did so, and fol- 
lowed the old woman up one pair of stairs in the dark 
without lisping a word. When we reached the top, 
we stood still until a light was got, then we were led 
into a large room which was close by the stairs. We 
looked around us to see where we had landed, and the 
first thing which attracted our attention was a matress 
made up on the floor. The room was furnished with two 
old chairs, one table and a short bench. The room 
was the picture of poverty. The old lady's appearance 
was neat, but her countenance depicted many years of 
sorrow and grief. She informed us, that the bed on 
the floor was the only lodging that she had to of- 
fer us, and to it we were heartily welcome. We de- 
clined the offer, feeling no disposition to go to bed. It 
was a suspicious looking place \ and we chose rather to 
set up the remainder of the night, as it was 2 o'clock, 
and we felt anxious to get clear of this place by the 
break of day. 

At day-break, after spending a night of fearful anxie- 
ty for our preservation under the protection of the old 
lady, we gladly took our final departure, after paying two 
shillings for our lodging. We again visited the fair, and 
frequently the city, but always had the precaution to 
engage our lodging for the night as soon as w 7 e arrived 
in the city. 1 spent two weeks in attending these fairs 
and other amusements, which drew more than half of 
my little store out of my pocket. I became familiarly 
acquainted with the town boys, with whom I usually as- 
sociated, and participated in all their amusements. In 
this manner I spent several weeks without making the 
least effort to obtain a situation on ship-board, boy like, 
and thoughtless of the future. But my money was soon 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 119 

gone, which led us to look for a ship as soon as pos- 
sible. Accordingly, we commenced a course of inquiry 
through the docks, on board of every vessel that lay in 
our way, but all in vain. A more unfavorable time for 
seamen had not been known in London. The cause 
which led to so much suffering and distress among the 
seamen was the disarmament of the navy and the non- 
employment of the transports. This threw thousands of 
seamen out of employment. It was estimated that there 
w T as in London at that time over 30,000 seamen. When 
they were paid off from the ships of war they had money 
in abundance, but spent it foolishly, and freely as wa- 
ter runs to a level. 

The scarcity of employment, led them to adopt a plan 
altogether unjustifiable, and that was to form themselves 
into that ever memorable Blue Ribbon Gang, which 
was the means of banishing thousands of foreign seamen 
out of the land. They marched daily for several weeks 
through every dock and examined every vessel afloat in 
the river or in the dock ; and if they found any foreign- 
ers on board, they immediately compelled them to leave 
the ships, and forbid their shipping in any English vessel 
again. But in this they made one exception, and that 
was in favor of all foreigners who had served on board of 
his Brittanic Majesty's ship three years and could show 
a certificate to that effect. 

We continued our daily exertions for several weeks in 
succession, traveling from six to seven miles per day 
without receiving: the least encouragement. Being now 
out of funds we were under the necessity of pawning all 
the best of our clothes, piece by piece to supply the de- 
mands of nature. 

I had been more frugal with my money than Ellis ; 
and in all probability I should not have been driven 
to this necessity, had 1 not been grossly imposed upon 
bv Ellis' brother, who took the liberty one morning to 
rob me, before my eyes of a £2 note. I was a small 
boy, and among strangers, and dared not open my mouth 
about it. After suffering a great deal from poverty, we at 
last fell in with a ship in Deptford, in a dry dock, bound 
to Russia. We shipped on board of her while she was 



120 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

in the dock, with the design to go the voyage in her, 
but unjustifiable conduct of Ellis toward me, who 
threatened to turn me out of his brother's house as he 
termed it, without any just cause, so affected my feel- 
ings, that I resolved, within myself, not to sail in the 
ship with him. 

1 was on board four weeks previous to her departure. 
The day before her sailing down the river we were paid 
our advance money, — but it was no advance to us 
boys, having already labored on board for one month. 
I received one pound, which was the wages that I was 
to have per month. The ship being in the river, it was 
necessary for us to go on shore to bring our things on 
board, as she was to sail with the ebb-tide the following 
morning. Accordingly I went on shore with the other 
boys, leaving the mate to expect my return early in the 
morning ; but he saw me no more. That pledge I have 
not had the pleasure of fulfilling, nor have I ever seen 
Ellis since. 

After this I associated with one Davis, a boy who re- 
sided in the same street, and who desired to go to sea. 
We traveled for several weeks in succession from twelve 
to fourteen miles per day, endeavoring to obtain a vessel 
together, but to no effect. The pound which I had re- 
ceived for my labor, notwithstanding my economy in 
having allowanced myself with three penny-loaves per day 
and a little butter, had slowly ebbed away and left me 
pennyless and poorly clad. The lady of the house be- 
came acquainted with my distress, and frequently ad- 
ministered to my necessities, by giving me my breakfast 
before I started, and sometimes, a morsel of supper when 
I returned for which I was very grateful. 

One day, while going our rounds in the London docks, 
I fell in with the gunner's mate, belonging to the naval 
ship that I had deserted. He had been paid off from 
the service. He inquired about my circumstances, and 
I gave him satisfactory information in that respect. He 
then took us to a public house which was near, and pro- 
vided a bed for us for the night and as much bread and 
cheese as we could eat, with a quart of strong beer. 

Previous to his leaving us he requested me to call at 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 121 

his house, which he had before shown to me, at 8 o'clock 
in the morning. 1 did so, and he took us to a public 
house and provided a sumptuous breakfast for us. Af- 
ter breakfast he took us with him on board of several 
vessels, and endeavored to the utmost in his power, to as- 
assist us to a ship, but without effect. On the following day, 
we renewed our exertions ; he took us to the exchange, 
where he met with several ship-masters, of whom he in- 
quired if they wanted a couple of smart boys, as appren- 
tices. At last, he fell in with a captain of a little brig 
going, a cod-fishing on the banks of Newfoundland, who 
wanted an apprentice. I agreed with him on the spot, 
and on the following day went on board, accompanied 
by Davis. I staid on board of her four or five days and 
then left, having previously shipped on board of the 
Alfred, bound to the West Indies. 

Davis and I worked on board of the Alfred by the 
week, until the ship should get ready for the voyage. 
We staid on board 6 or 7 weeks and then we were 
discharged, the ship's intended voyage being delayed 
for some weeks. When I was paid off from this ship 
1 received 9 shillings. Out of this sum I paid the lady 
of the house 5 shillings as a compensation for administer- 
ing to my necessities, with which she seemed to be well 
pleased. With the remainder, 1 redeemed some of my 
clothing, and supplied the necessary demands of na- 
ture until 1 obtained a situation in another ship. 

About this time I became acquainted with two boys 
who had been paid from the Elizabeth 74. I had some 
slight recollection of having seen them while lying at the 
rock of Gibraltar. They, like myself were orphans, and 
one of them had been denied even the knowledge of his 
parents. We mutually participated in each other's com- 
pany in our boyish amusements, and in endeavoring to 
obtain a ship to sail together, which we finally ac- 
complished after two weeks exertions. The ship's name 
was the Norfolk, of London, and belonged to Ebenezer 
Thompson, Esq. of Rotherithe, Southwark. She was a 
French built ship-of-war, a very fast sailer of 650 tons, 
and pierced for 42 guns. The report was that she was 
going on the coast of Africa for gold dust and ivory, 
16 



122 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

We were bound apprentices for three years, for which 
time and services we were to be compensated with £33, 
a sum which experience taught us, was inadequate to 
supply us with the necessary clothing for the time 
specified. We both were highly gratified that we had 
been so fortunate as to obtain a situation on board so 
large and beautiful a ship, with whose intended voy- 
age we were enraptured. Our youthful minds were 
highly delighted and exalted with the false visions of 
wealth and prosperity, in the continuation of these voy- 
ages. But our young and credulous minds were soon 
brought by actual experience to discover our delusion. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 123 



CHAPTER X. 

Peparture for the island of Georgia • arrival at the Isle of May • 
disappointed in the voyage of the ship • comes to an anchor 
in Royal Sound Bay ; attacking the sea Elephants 5 des- 
cription of the island ; a man lost in the icebergs ; tremendous 
falling of icebergs; floating icebergs; the Elephant season ; the 
proceedings of the Elephant while on shore ; the Seal season ; 
manner of obtaining our cargo : our sufferings ; the boat 
blown into the air ; starving condition of the boat's crew ; 
arrival at the ship ; proceeds to the east end of the island ; win- 
ter's retreat to the ship ; the snow falls ; Sealing during winter ; 
sufferings of the boat's crew ; sleeping in a cavern ; sleeping on 
the ice ; Spring prosperity ; loss of the small shallop ; succeeds 
in obtaining a cargo; departure for England; suffering of the 
author; encounters a gale and the ship springs a leak, 400 strokes 
per hour; arrives at Rio Janeiro; stops the leak and proceeds 
home ; description of the city and harbor of Rio Janeiro; makes 
lands-end; arrives at London. 

SEVENTH VOYAGE. 

The ship was fitted out in the best possible manner ; 
she had eight boats and two shallops, one of 24 tons 
wmich was half built, the other 36 was carried out in 
frame. Her crew consisted of 52 persons, 36 stout, 
able bodied and well experienced seamen, including the 
officers, and 16 apprentices, the most of them brought 
up at sea from early life. 

The ship being now ready for sea and having her pi- 
lot on board, with a fair wind and tide, she steadily gli- 
ded by the banks of the serpentine Thames. 

We came to anchor at Gravesend, where the crew 
was paid their advance and on the following day with a 
merry song and cheerful hearts we spread every sail to 
the favorable breeze, which soon wafted our gallant ship 
into the blue waters, beyond lands-end. We pro- 
ceeded on our voyage until we arrived at the Isle of 



124 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

May, where we came to anchor to take in salt to use on 
seal skins which were to be part of our cargo. 

Until now, I, and many of the boys had been in total 
ignorance with regard to the ship's port of destination or 
the nature of her voyage. Some of us had still cherish- 
ed the idea that the ship was bound to the coast of Af- 
rica, and this was strengthened by listening to the fre- 
quent conversation which the men held about kill- 
ing huge elephants with lances and shooting them. 
But the ship having put into port for salt, led us to in- 
quire the particular use that we had for such a quantity 
of this article as we had taken in. We now ascertain- 
ed that the ship was going to South Georgia, for 
sea elephants and seals. This was an island that was 
known by only two persons on board; the captain and 
a foremast hand. It is situated in the 55th degree of 
south latitude and 36 west longitude. The Isle of May 
is one of the Cape de Verd Islands, which belongs to 
the Portuguese. It is a poor island, destitute of a good 
harbor and its produce is chiefly salt. 

Having accomplished our purpose in this port we 
again weighed anchor and stretched our course toward 
the South Pole. We passed the island of St. Jago on 
the right, and the next evening the island of Fuego, the 
English of which is firt. It derives its name from a 
lofty volcano, from whose summit issues double volumes 
of curling, scarlet flames, which attracts the attention of 
the passing mariner. 

On the following morning we made the Isle of Brava, 
which signifies fig island. Here we took in some live 
stock and then steered our course again for the South. 

We continued on our voyage without interruption or 
discovering any thing except a strange sail, which ap- 
peared now and then at a great distance off. 

Having reached the 45th degree of south latitude, 
our captain deemed it advisable for the safety of the ship, 
to have four constantly looking out for icebergs, as there 
are a great many floating about to the eastward of Cape 
Horn. The look-outs were stationed,^ on the forecastle 
and 2 on the foreyard. But fortunately we did not 
come any where near them, though we past a great ma- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 125 

ny at a distance, towering up from 1 to 200 feet above 
the level of the sea. 

We had now got so near the island that we were in 
anxious and daily expectations of making this wonderful 
land of ice, rocks and snow. At last we made the Bird 
Islands, three in number and which are situated at the 
west end of the large island. 

It was in December that w r e made land, and it being 
the first month of summer, the lower lands were nearly 
clear of snow and exhibited at various places a degree of 
verdure, which was pleasing and agreeable to the mind, 
while the upper part from the peaks of the mountains, 
half way to the sea-shore, were covered with ice and 
snow, indicating the severity of the winter season. 
We sailed along the land until we arrived off the Royal 
Sound Bay, which was the place of our destination for 
the season. Off this bay we were under the indis- 
pensable necessity of bringing the ship too for the night, 
in consequence of the unfavorableness of the wind and 
the darkness of the night which prevented us from get- 
ting our ship into a safe anchorage. Early on the fol- 
lowing morning, the wind being more favorable, we 
steered our course into the bay and at last came to an- 
chor in safety, in the basin, a place in which the ship laid 
perfectly landlocked and sheltered from the roughness 
of the sea and the severity of the winds. 

We immediately proceeded to secure the ship for the 
summer and winter seasons; this we soon accomplished 
by mooring her with two anchors ahead and two astern, 
and striking down all her masts and yards except the 
lower masts. Having accomplished this we next pro- 
ceeded to haul up the shallop on shore, which was part- 
ly built to finish her ; and to put the other on the 
stocks as soon as possible. My curiosity, was more then 
gratified on the morning of our first landing on Shallop 
point. This was the name of alow point of land within 
the basin, generally used by ships to setup their shallops 
and to store all their spare boats casks and shooks. 

We proceeded toward the shore in two boats fully 
manned, commanded by our chief mate and boatswain, 
the only two acquainted with the mode of attacking and 



126 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

killing those amphibious animals. After landing, by the 
command of our mate we advanced with our lances and 
clubs to the appointed place of slaughter. I walked 
rather in the rear of the men imagining to myself what 
shape these creatures could be in. for as yet, I had not 
been favored with an opportunity of seeing one of them. 
I was soon relieved from my anxiety by an immediate 
attack on the elephants, which to my astonishment and 
disappointment we found lying down asleep between the 
bogs. I took my position on one of the bogs to have a 
good view of them and to keep out of danger, not know- 
ing how they would act on being attacked by the boat's 
crew who were led on by the mate and boatswain. As 
soon as the attack was made on them in different posi- 
tions, they all, being about sixty in number, commenc- 
ed snorting and some of them roaring, at the same time 
the most of them were endeavoring to make their es- 
cape into the water. Poor innocent animals ! I could 
not but pity them, seeing the large tears rolling down 
from their eyes ; they were slaughtered without mercy. 
While the carpenters were building the shallops, six 
boats were manned and sent far and near after all the 
elephants that could possibly be found. In this manner 
50 tons of oil were got on board of the ship during the 
time that the shallops were building, which was four 
weeks. 

The island of South Georgia is about 120 miles in 
length while its extreme breadth does not exceed 1*2 
miles. It exhibits a ridge of high and terrific mountains 
which extend from one end of the island to the other 
and which gradually descends and breaks off in a 
thousand different forms toward the sea. In the 
winter and spring it resembles an immense iceberg 
from its summit to its base. Its appearance is sufficient 
to cause a stout-hearted man to shiver with cold antici- 
pations. The island presents a bold, terrific and iron 
bound shore with many dangerous reefs and sunken 
rocks projecting into the sea. It abounds with large 
bays, which are 22 in number; 14 on the north side, 
which are remarkable for their safe harbors. The south 
side has eight bays which possess very unsafe and dan- 
gerous harbors for vessels to ride in. Out of 22 bays 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 127 

there are fifteen which contain icebergs of the bluest 
kind at their heads. The average sizes of which can 
be no less than a mile in breadth and four miles in length 
in proportion as the creeks, in which they are formed 
extend in-land between the mountains. The depth 
must be from 100 to 1000 feet, as some of them rise 
level with the summit of the mountains. They are dan- 
gerous to cross over in consequence of the many cracks 
which they contain, covered with snow, which prevents 
the traveler from discovering his danger until suddenly 
the snow gives away beneath his feet and he is precipi- 
tated into a terrible abyss. Our captain, who was an 
old voyager to this island, used to warn us very fre- 
quently of the danger in walking over these icebergs, 
as he had been so unfortunate as to lose a man on a 
former voyage. The old gentleman related the manner 
of his loss and the means employed for his recovery in 
the following manner : It was in the Spring of the year 
and they were in great expectations of a ship from Eng- 
land in which they anticipated letters from home, but 
how to obtain them they did not know unless they un- 
dertook a journey across the island where the ship was 
to come to anchor to collect her cargo. A party of the 
crew undertook the journey and in the act of crossing 
one of these icebergs one of the party fell through the 
snow into one of these dangerous cracks. Some of the 
party returned immediately to the ship to give informa- 
tion. On receiving the melancholy information the cap- 
tain immediately repaired to the spot with a tow line to 
let down into the crevice for the unfortunate sailor to 
take hold of, if he still existed ; but finding that one tow 
line was too short to reach the bottom, an additional 
one was procured with as little success. He was reluc- 
tantly abandoned to his melancholy fate. 

The icebergs which crown the head of these bays, 
are also dangerous in consequence of their constant fall- 
ing, which is caused by the presence of ice from above 
toward the water and that part, against which the sea is 
continually beating, being undermined, causes the tre- 
mendous crushes which frequently occur, and sound in 
the ear like the loudest thunder, I have frequently wit- 



128 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

nessed the falling of these icebergs, and on one occasion 
] saw one fall which I judged to be 200 feet above the 
level of the sea. It made a tremendous roar and rose 
the sea on the shore at a distance of three miles over 
thirty feet for a few minutes. The coast is constantly 
visited by a number of these islands of ice which are 
driven in these seas by the prevalent south-west winds. 
They are of such an immense size that they frequently 
ground on the coast and remain in one position for weeks 
at a time. I saw one which wasa-ground at the mouth 
of Royal Bay for several weeks, which was 600 feet 
long and 150 wide. Its shape was square at the ends 
and the sides perpendicular. Its height above the wa- 
ter was about 50 feet on one side and 40 on the other. 
Its top was smooth and sloping, covered with four or five 
feet of snow. On the highest side was an opening which 
was sufficiently large to admit a ship. We rowed into 
it and found it like a spacious dock. I have also seen 
another large iceberg which was a-ground about two miles 
opposite Cape Charlotte. This was a cape in the shape 
of a sugar loaf, whose proud head overlooked the turbu- 
leut sea 500 feet above its level, and it was admitted 
by our officers, who were considered competent judges, 
that the iceberg was full as high above the water as the 
cape. Then according to the general rule the iceberg 
must have been 1500 feet from its summit to its bottom, 
that is 1000 feet beneath the water and 500 above. 
This will probably appear incredible to some of my rea- 
ders who have not had an opportunity of examining 
such things. 

It is of great importance that a ship, going on a sea- 
elephant voyage to any of these islands, should be 
there in what is called " the pupping-cow season," 
which commences in October. The elephants which 
get on shore during this season are the pupping-cows and 
bulls. They come up on sandy beaches which are made 
suitable to their condition at this time of the year. Im- 
mediately after their landing on shore, by peculiar in- 
stinct they form themselves into pods along the beaches. 
This arrangement is made by the bulls, which keep a 
constant look out for those which come out of the water, 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 129 

and immediately drive them to their respective pods and 
keep a constant watch to keep them in this place. 
Sometimes he takes his position in the middle of his 
pod from which he keeps rising now and then to watch, 
at others on the outside, and when this is the case 
they generally go round the pod once in about two hours. 
The largest of the bulls, which are from 20 to 22 feet 
in length and from four to five in height, will fight for 
hours most furiously for the mastership of the pods. 

The next is the " brown-cow season." These are 
large barren cows and come up any-where,wherever they 
can find a chance. 

The next is the " young bull season," so called. 
These come up and lay among the bogs to shed their 
skins, and after two months on shore, they go ofT with 
scarcely any fat on them. 

The next is the " March bull season."* These are 
the largest of the bulls, w T hich have escaped from the 
hunters in October. They generally come up on sandy 
beaches to shed their skins. These bulls are very large 
and fat and three of them generally make two tuns of oil, 
but I have assisted in taken several which have made a 
tun of oil each. 

The season for seal commences in December and lasts 
through the three winter month's. The seal generally 
come up on high, flat rocks w T here there is a great deal 
of surf, which makes it very dangerous to land with the 
boats, in consequence of the great rise and fall of the 
sea upon the rocks at every sweep of the waves. 

As to the manner of making up the voyage I remark in 
the first place, it is essential to choose a good ship-har- 
bor in a central part of the island, to divide the distance 
fairly for the shallops and boats from each end of the 
island to the ship. In the second place the ship should 
be provided with two good shallops to take the blubber 
on board of the ship. These shallops are sent, one to 
the east and the other to the west of the ship. There 
are two or three boats to attend each shallop to kill the el- 
ephants and to take blubber on board of them. The boat's 
crews are so situated at times, as to endure the severest 
of hardships, cold, starvation and hunger. The boats 
17 



130 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

have to pass through breakers, over sunken rocks and 
bars,and to land on dangerous open, sandy beaches,arnong 
ice and tremendous surfs, which often upsets the boats, 
notwithstanding the care and caution of the crews. They 
leave the ship and seldom return under three or four 
months, during which the boat is the house and home 
of the crew. They always sleep under the boat, which 
is turned bottom-up on a sandy or strong beach or rocka, 
which is frequently the case ; but in the winter and 
spring, the ground being deeply covered with snow, the 
boat's crew are under the necessity of sleeping on it. 

When we first arrived in the island, I was chosen to 
row the after-oar in the second mate's boat, which was 
stationed to the eastward of the ship. We left the ship 
some days before the shallop was ready, with the in- 
tention to prepare a cargo for her, and in company wich 
another boat arrived that day at Snow-squall Bay, about 
50 miles from the ship and a good place for young bulls. 
This bay has three long sandy beaches and one iceberg. 
Here we turned our boat over on the sand, close against a 
bluff, which sheltered us from the boisterous winds and 
occasional rains. 

Having killed all the elephants in this bay, the blub- 
ber of which was sent on board of the ship by the shal- 
lop, we proceeded to the next bay, which was Disap- 
pointment, to slaughter the innocent animals there. Hav- 
ing arrived at the bay, we turned our boat up in the mid- 
dle part of a sandy beach, which was open to a great 
valley, through which the wind, when it did blow in that 
direction, was very violent. This we learned to our sor- 
row- when it was too late. After our boat was turned 
over, we partook of a good hearty supper, which 1 had 
provided out of fried elephant's hearts and tongues, and 
coffee, tt then being late in the evening, we retired to 
our sandy bed to repose, as we anticipated, without mo- 
lestation for the night. But we were not long permitted 
to enjoy our sweet repose, before we were aroused by 
the whistling of the wind, which came down the valley 
in gusts, shaking our boat from end to end and threaten- 
ing us with her immediate overturn. The severity of 
the wind continuing to increase, we were under the ne* 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 131 

cessity of setting up under the boat to hold her down, 
every time these severe gusts came down upon us. To- 
wards midnight the gusts became so severe in spite of all 
our efforts to keep her down, that she was blown from 
us about fifty feet into the air. She came down on the 
sand a hundred feet from where she was, and then rolled 
over with the force of the wind a hundred feet more, be- 
fore she reached the water. We came up with the boat 
and took her up with great difficulty and conveyed her 
to one corner of the beach, which was sheltered in some 
degree from the violence of the wind, and there hauled 
her up. In hpr fall, she stove about ten feet of her up- 
per streak, in consequence of which she became useless 
to us until repaired. 

We were now under the necessity of walking the 
beach the remainder of the night to keep us from freez- 
ing. The shallop arrived in a kw days and took in her 
load, and our boat and crew, for the ship, to which we 
arrived in twenty-four hours. 

After our boat had been repaired, we were sent with 
the large shallop to the westward of the ship to search 
every creek and corner for elephants and seals. In the 
afternoon we arrived at the west branch of Royal Bay, 
where after searching for elephants, we discovered a large 
and dry cavern, sufficiently large to accommodate forty 
men. There we t )ok up our lodgings for the night, and 
left it the next morning highly gratified with our discov- 
ery, anticipating its future benefit to our ship's crew. 
After searching this branch, which had two large ice- 
bergs, we proceeded to Cumberland Bay, which also is 
a large and beautiful bay, in each three branches, each 
of which is a safe harbor for shipping. The next we 
came to was Fresh Water Bay. Here we discovered 
another cavern, large enough for two boat's crews. In 
it we took up our lodgings for several days, finding 
enough elephants to fill the shallop twice. From this 
we proceeded to Iceberg and Big Bay, each of which 
contain ) large, tremendous icebergs. We then passed 
over to Crew's Harbor and Hog Bay. 

In searching over these harbors we found elephants 
sufficient to load our shallop two or three times with blub- 



132 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

ber. We next proceeded to the Bay of Islands, which 
is a large bay containing four large and beautiful islands, 
resorted to by numerous albatrosses which build their 
nests there. 

From this we proceeded to Sparrow's Bay, where we 
filled up our shallop and sent her to the ship. We then 
returned to the Bay of Islands, where we expected to 
collect a part of a shallop-load. The other boat went on 
board of the ship with the shallop for a supply of provi- 
sions for both the boats, as the shallop had to go to the 
eastward of the ship, and probably would not have re- 
turned to us in three weeks. We were left with provi- 
sions for a week only, expecting the boat to return with- 
in that time with a full supply. But the north and wes- 
terly winds, which generally prevail at that time of the 
year, setting in for a whole fortnight, prevented the re- 
turn of the boat as soon as it was expected, in conse- 
quence of which, in the course of a week we found our- 
selves in a suffering condition. We had collected 14 
tuns of blubber in less than a week and we dared not 
leave it for fear that the sea-birds would devour it during 
our absence, as it was rather inconvenient and difficult 
to bury it, a mode sometimes adopted to save it irom the 
birds. 

Twelve days had now elapsed since the departure of 
the boat and yet there was no prospect of her return, as 
the winds still continued unfavorable, which occasioned 
us a depression of spirits. 

Since the consumption of the last of our provisions, 
which was now six days, we had been subsisting solely 
on boiled elephant's tongues and hearts, which are carri- 
on, and when they are used for food, alone, are injurious 
to the constitution of man. As we continued to subsist 
on this unwholesome food, our health and strength daily 
declined, and we came to the conclusion to leave the 
blubber to its fate and endeavor to reach the ship as 
soon as possible. We were encouraged to come to this 
determination by a strong wind which was then blowing 
in our favor and which we anticipated would take us 
safely to the ship by sunset, it being sunrise when we 
started for the ship. But in a few hours we experienc- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 133 

ed a reverse wind, and shortly after a calm, which con- 
tinued the best part of the day, and the whole of the 
night, in consequence of which we were under the ne- 
cessity of rowing 22 hours without cessation, excepting 
for a few minutes. We met with a strange boat's crew, 
from whom we obtained a small slice of raw pork and a 
biscuit for each man, which we devoured with great 
avidity. 

After enduring faintness, hunger and great fatigue, we 
arrived on board of the ship on the following morning. 
The captain permitted us to rest that day. When, 
taking a sufficient quantity of provisions we were des- 
patched again to our station, to continue the prosecution 
of our labor. After having departed from the shin we 
caught a slight easterly wind, which wafted us with all 
possible speed to the place that we had previously left 
at which we arrived in the evening and were highly 
gratified at meeting our absent boat's crew there. We 
continued in this place until the arrival of the shallop to 
take the cargo,which we had provided for her, and then 
commenced retracing the grounds towards the ship. We 
returned to the ship after having gone over 100 miles 
twice, during which time we had sent 100 tuns of blub- 
ber on board of the ship. 

Our two boats and shallop were now sent to the east- 
ward of the ship to' assist the other boats and shallop in 
accomplishing the work on that part of the island, which 
abounded with elephants. We left the ship and procee- 
ded to Cooper's harbor, which is the most easterly har- 
bor on the island. Here we carried on the slaughter 
along the coast, during which time we sent several shal- 
lop loads of blubber on board of the ship. 

Having worked over the east grounds we proceeded 
to the ship to lay the shallops up before the ship should 
be frozen in, as it was now the commencement of winter. 

In consequence of the scarcity of the elephants and 
the severity of the winter, which had now commenced 
with its usual rigor, we were confined on board of the 
ship the forepart of the winter, during which we were 
chiefly employed in cutting the ice out of the basin to 
prevent its injuring the ship, and in clearing the decks 



134 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

after heavy snow falls, which frequently occurred. — 
The snow falls having become less frequent and the 
weather more mild towards the latter part of winter, 
our captain sent two boats a sealing. They were sent 
from the ship with a sufficient quantity of provision to 
last them three weeks, the time designated by the cap- 
tain for their absence from the ship. The boats selected 
for this short expedition were the boatswain's and the 
second mate's. 

We proceeded to the eastward examining every creek 
and corner, and killing every seal that we met in our 
way until night overtook us at the entrance of Char- 
lotte's Bay, which in a direct course was twenty miles 
from the ship. What was now to be done to obtain 
shelter from the inclemency of the night's severe, chill- 
ing frost ? We knew the bay to be a rocky, iron-bound 
shore, excepting a small beach about 100 yards wide 
some distance from us, but which at this time of the year 
was inaccessible in consequence of the great hight of 
snow by the water's edge which was from 10 to 15 feet. 
We rowed along the west coast of the bay with our anx- 
ious eyes fixed upon the black irregular rocks as we pass- 
ed them, to see if we could possibly discover a place to 
haul our boat in for the night. At last we came to a 
small strong beach which was about 40 feet square, and 
was overhung by a huge rock, which in some measure 
defended it from the snow, but the traces of the sea- 
weed left no doubt in my mind that the principal agent 
in performing this labor was the dashing of the waves, 
as it was opened to the north and easterly winds. We 
hauled up our boals over the rocks and stones with great 
difficulty and turned one over to shelter us from the 
weather. Several seals which we had in the boats were 
then skinned and piled before the boat and set fire to, to 
keep us from freezing during the night. This was done 
by the men while the other boy and 1 were engaged in 
melting ice to procure some water to make coffee for 
our suppers. After supper we retired under the boat to 
rest our wearied bodies on the huge, round stones from 
the fatigue and labors of the preceding day. Some of 
us laid down on the stones while others sat down and 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 135 

reclined against the thwart. At midnight I awoke from 
my slumber shivering with cold, and by the orders oi 
the boatswain, immediately proceeded to boil some cof- 
fee and fry some seal's liver for our breakfast, of which 
we voraciously partook. Having finished our breakfast we 
were under the necessity of walking the little beach until 
break of day to keep ourselves warm and comfortable. 
At break of day we launched our boats and recommenced 
our search for seals along the coast. We proceeded un- 
til after the sun had descended beneath the western hor- 
izon, at which time we came to a small neck of very 
low land, at the end of which was a small rocky island. 
On this little neck we hauled up our boats over the rocks, 
as it was now dark, and this was the only place within 
our view where we could find shelter. Our boats were 
turned over and a blubber fire kindled to make our cof- 
fee. After having partook of a good cup of coffee, we 
crept under the boats to pass a miserable night, at the 
close of a hard day's labor. As I was small and short, 
which on this occasion proved to be of some advantage, 
1 laid on the inner part of the thwart where I had some 
flying naps during the forepart of the night. At mid- 
night we were greatly alarmed by the crackling of the 
ice beneath the boats. Shortly after it was made ap- 
parent to us that the crackling of the ice was caused by 
an unusually high tide which was a then flowing and 
breaking the ice beneath us to an alarming extent. We 
were placed in a dangerous situation, not knowing what 
was beneath us, whether water and ice alone, or rocks, 
ice and water. But in the midst of our conjectures, our 
anxieties were relieved by the welcome dawning of the 
day, which plainly exhibited to us our unsafe and unfa- 
vorable condition. Without hesitation we immediate- 
ly turned our boats over and proceeded to launch them 
into the sea as the only safe refuge. It was some time 
before we could accomplish this task, as the tide by this 
time had broken up all the ice beneath us, and it was 
with difficulty that we could obtain a foot-hold on the 
peaked rocks, which were far apart and between which 
was ten or twelve feet of water, which made it dangerous 
and difficult for us to convey our boats over them with 



136 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

safety. At last we succeeded in getting our boats safely 
into the water. Having succeeded in this we rowed off 
at a little distance from the shore and laid on our oars, 
while we breakfasted by taking some raw pork and biscuit 
and a glass of spirit, which was then thought to be essen- 
tial to renovate our spirits. We recommenced our 
search along the frightful and dangerous iron-bound shore 
and proceeded until late in the evening, at which time 
we arrived at the east branch of Tamering bay. When 
there we rowed to a strong beach, near which was a half- 
moon cavern dry and free from snow. Here we took up 
our lodgings for the night. After supper, while on the 
point of retiring to our beds, which were composed of 
the huge round stones, the boatswain made some remarks 
respecting our present condition when contrasted with 
the most affluent in England, and jocosely took a white 
pigeon which we had taken, and plucking some of its 
feathers gave two to each individual, advising us to put 
them under us and sleep on them, that on some future 
day we might say we had slept on feathers while enga- 
ged in sealing on the coast of Georgia. 

We continued our daily search, at times sleeping on 
rocks, snow, ice or in caverns, until we obtained a boat 
load of skins and then we proceeded to the ship to dis- 
charge. 

Winter having at length passed away with its multi- 
plicity of toils and innumerable dangers, and Spring hav- 
ing made its welcome appearance; joyous and rejoic- 
ing we commenced the season with cheerful hearts and 
indefatigable diligence, which finally crowned our efforts 
with abundant success, notwithstanding the cloud of mis- 
fortune which impeded our progress and cast a gloom 
over our prosperity towards the latter part of the season. 
This was occasioned by the loss of our small shallop, 
which to us, was an irreparable loss ; and had the acci- 
dent taken place in the middle or commencement of the 
voyage it undoubtedly would have been the means of 
a failure in our enterprize. 

We at last succeeded in filling the ship and sailed for 
England in the latter part of December 1817, with 
3500 barrels elephant oil and 5000 seal skins. On leav- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 137 

fng the island I suffered much with the severity of the 
cold, which affected my feet to a great degree. I had 
neither shoes nor stockings, having previously worn 
them out, and it was impossible to obtain any from the 
slop-chest, as it was empty, or from any of the crew. 
But fortunately for me, we were blessed with a favorable 
wind by which we were soon brought into milder weath- 
er, which relieved me. 

After we had been out about a week, our ship sprung 
a leak in a severe gale of wind, which lasted three days. 
The gale having abated, we bore away, crowding all 
possible sail on the ship, as it was expedient for us to go 
into port to stop the leak, as shs was leaking at the rate 
of 400 strokes per hour. It was ascertained that the 
leak was under the counter near the stern post, which the 
officers thought could be easily stopped by heeling the 
ship on our arrival into port. We had great reason to 
be grateful to that kind and benevolent providence who 
watched over us with incessant care, particularly in this 
dangerous position, by favoring us with a strong and fa- 
vorable wind, which in three weeks from the day of our 
departure from the island, brought us to a safe anchorage 
in Rio Janeiro. Having come to an anchor on the fol- 
lowing day we commenced trimming the ship to stop the 
leak, which was accomplished in two or three days. 

Having stopped the leak in the ship, refreshed the 
crew and renewed our supply of water, we again started 
for old England. 

Rio Janeiro is a city of note and the capital of the 
empire of Brazil. It is situated on level ground, bor- 
dering the water on the left hand side of the bay. The 
city at that time did not exhibit any degree of splendor. 
The principal building in it was the king's palace, which 
is near the water. It is a large building and before it is 
a large square which extends to the water side, where is 
a large fountain and the principal landing place which is 
denominated Palace Stairs. The houses and streets are 
built in the same style as those in Portugal and to all 
1 appearance the city represents a Portuguese town. Its 
population was at that time chiefly made up of whites 
13 



138 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

and blacks,the latter were held as bondmen by the whites, 
who used them with great severity. 

We proceeded on our passage towards England, which 
proved prosperous beyond our expectations. It was at 
length evident that we were on the eve of making land ; 
and having been in anxious expectation of it for some time 
our ears were saluted one morning by a loud shout from 
the man at the mast head, of "land ho ! on our larboard 
bow." Every one now hastened to the forecastle anx- 
ous to catch a glance of the land of our birth, after an 
absence of 18 months from the society and enjoyment 
of relatives and friends. No one, excepting those who 
have experienced such feelings, are capable of judging 
of the degree of ecstacy enjoyed by the sailor, when he 
returns home. 

It was soon ascertained by our officers that the land 
which we had made was the Lizard-point Having thus 
made sure our land-fall, we immediately crowded all pos- 
sible sail on the ship and steered for the Downs, where 
we came to an anchor on the following day. 

At the Downs we took in our river pilot, and on the 
following morning, the wind and tide being favorable, 
we proceeded towards London, where we arrived in the 
course of two or three days, to the joy of all concerned. 

The ship was soon discharged and her cargo sold at 
the rate of £50 a tun for oil and the skins at £2 each. 
The crew, with the exception of the apprentices, made 
a profitable voyage. 

During our stay at home the apprentices were board- 
ed and lodged in the ship, which was to five of us orphan 
boys, our only home. 

While at home the ship went through the necessary 
repairs for another voyage to the same island, on which 
she sailed in the latter part of June 1818. 

Notwithstanding my knowledge and experience of 
the sufferings which I should necessarily have to endure 
in the course of another similar voyage, I was compell- 
ed, being an apprentice through necessity, and with a 
full view of all my future toils and miseries, to remain 
in the ship and go a second voyage to that desolate is- 
land* unfit for human beings to inhabit. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 139 



CHAPTER XT. 

Departure from London ; near being wrecked ; arrival at Georgia^ 
shallops and boats leave the ship in search of elephants ; severe 
trial in rowing into the bay ; discovery of a large cavern ; the 
boats crews sleep in the cavern ; gale of wind ; loss of one 
boat,- the boat's crew walk to the ship; arrival of the boat's crew ; 
landing at Devils-bight ; gale of wind ; sufferings while there ; 
return to Snow-Squall Bay ; arrival of the boats at Cooper's har- 
bor ; the author is invited on board the shallop by his friend 
Johnson ; gale of wind blowing into the harbor ; the sloop parts 
her cable and is wrecked on the rocks ; loss of life and miracu- 
lous escape of the author ; arrival of the schooner and boats at 
the ship ; a voyage of discovery to the Sandwich Islands ; dis- 
appointment of the voyage ; description of the volcano ; arrival 
at the ship ; the boats are dispatched to the westward ; a shallop 
is bought; arrival of the shallop to the boats; employment of the 
boats ; loss of the shallop on a rock ; escape of the author and 
sufferings of the crew ; arrival of the crew to the ship"; gale of 
wind ; the schooner drifts out to sea ; the author sent to her as- 
sistance ; his sufferings during the gale ; attempt to raise the 
shallop 5 winter sealing round the island ; the author falls into 
the sea from an iceberg and from the top of a rock ; sleeping on 
the snow, ice and rocks daring the winter; state of starvation 
is compelled to subsist on Penguin's hearts and livei s : in con- 
sequence of these sufferings our skin came off in tiirg * flakes ; 
departure of the ship for England; touches at the Isle . Fer- 
manda norona ; arrival at London ; poverty of the author. 

EIGHTH VOYAGE . 

The ship sailed from London on her intended voyage, 
accompanied by the schooner Ann, a vessel of 150 tons, 
bought by the owners of the ship for the purpose of 
sailing as a shallop to attend the ship, she being a larger 
and more suitable vessel than the small shallop to brave 
the violent storms and heavy seas on the coast of that 
terrific cold and mountainous land. On our passage out, 



140 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

we touched at the Island of Brava for live stock and 
then proceeded toward our intended port. 

In making our passage in consequence of the south- 
east and trade winds, we drifted on the coast of Brazil 
and came near being lost. No person on board knew 
the true position of the ship,if we may judge from the ex- 
terior appearance of things. If the navigators had known, 
they most undoubtedly would have had confidential look- 
out men at the mast-head to give the alarm of danger 
when danger should appear. But this was not the case. 
The night being very dark, fires, which had been made 
by some of the slaves on the plantation, was distinctly 
observed by some one on deck, and the alarm was in- 
stantly given and the ship was immediately put about for 
her safely. In the morning we found ourselves close in 
shore under the lee of Cape St. Augustine, and the 
navigators could not account for their miscalculation un- 
less it was in consequence of the strong current and 
scanty winds. 

Here was a danger which was merely escaped by the 
accident of the fire. Had it not been for that fire, the 
ship must have been inevitably lost, perhaps with many 
valuable lives. This may be put down to intemperance 
on the part of the officers. 

Having weathered the coast of Brazil, we continued 
on our passage to our destined port, sailing by many 
large, high and terrific icebergs, where at last we moor- 
ed our ship safely in harbor. 

The schooner which sailed from London in company 
with us, parted from the ship four or five days subse- 
quent to our departure from the land's end of England. 
She made a direct passage and had arrived in the bay a 
fortnight before us. 

The boats and shallops crews were chosen,and despatch- 
ed to their respective stations to carry on the work of des- 
struction among the elephants and seals. As I was well 
acquainted with the coast and mode of operation, I was 
chosen by the second mate who was unacquainted with 
the business, to aid him in the knowledge of the coast 
and the mode of killing elephants and getting the blub- 
ber off of the sandy beaches. 



07 THOMAS W SMITH. 141 

We proceeded to the eastward and meeting with good 
success, sent several loads on board of the ship to be 
converted into oil. 

Having thoroughly cleared Tamaring bay of all the 
elephants, we proceeded one cold morning towards 
Snow-Squall bay. It was blowing a fresh breeze when 
we started, and having entered the mouth of the bay, 
we found that the wind was blowing very severe out of 
it. We were at a loss to know what to do. To row in- 
to the bay against a strong wind, and the seaspray flying 
over the boat, was truly discouraging if not impracticable. 
To go back where we started from was painful to think 
of, as by so doing we would have been put back fifty 
miles distance. At last we resolved to go forward, with 
a full determination to gain the desired spot. The day 
was clear and the sun shone bright. But notwithstand- 
ing the brightness of the sun, the piercing wind, which 
blew directly from a large iceberg, caused a heavy sea 
into which our boats plunged at every stroke of the oars, 
which caused the spray to fly continually over us. The 
frost which at the same time preyed on us with its usual 
severity, converted the water which was thrown into the 
boat and on us by the sea into solid ice, and the water 
that lodged on my hair became small lumps of ice. But 
notwithstanding the continual opposition of the windand 
sea, and the severity of the frost, we succeeded in gain- 
ing the weather shore, where we became completely 
sheltered from the wind. We rowed along the iron- 
bound shore until it was nearly dark, to discover a place 
where we could land and turn our boats over for the 
night. At last, after much toil and anxiety, fearing that 
we should be under the necessity of passing the night in 
our boat, we discovered a small beach between the rocks. 
We rowed along into the gulf-way. It was about sixty 
feet wide, high, black and terrific rocks on one side and 
black, low and flat ones on the other. We soon landed 
at its head, on a small beach, which at high water was 
overflown by the sea. From this beach the land rose in 
in high perpendicular and inaccessible rocks. We 
landed to see what discoveries we could possibly make, 
end to our surprise, our hearts were gladdened by tfee 



142 LIFE A.ND TRAVELS 

discovery of a long, large and beautiful cavern, suffi- 
ciently "large to contain our boats and to accommodate 
50 men. Our boat was immediately hauled into the 
cavern and the other was hauled up in safety, as it was 
then thought, upon the flat rocks, close to the cavern. 
After this was done, we sat down by a good fire and 
congratulated each other upon the final result of the day, 
and particularly on the discovery of the cavern, the fu- 
ture benefits of which, as a half-way-house, was then 
anticipated. x\fter supper, we laid down on the flat, 
rocky surface of the cavern, to rest our wearied limbs 
from the toil of the day. 

Towards morning we were aroused by the sound of 
the wind and the roaring and beating of the sea against 
the cavern. We immediately proceeded towards the 
mouth, with fearful apprehensions for the safety of the 
boat, which bad been left on the flat rock. Our appre- 
hensions were confirmed. The boat was lost, and its 
loss was much lamented by her crew, as she was new, 
and the loss was occasioned through sheer neglect. 

In consequence of the gale, we were confined within 
the cavern three days. Upon the fourth day, the wind 
having changed, we left the melancholy spot and rowed 
up some distance to a suitable place, where we landed 
the other boat's crew, to walk to the ship, which task 
they accomplished over the snow-hills in one day and a 
half. 

We then proceeded up the bay, killing the animals as 
we went, securing the blubber from the innumerable 
ravenous birds. We continued laboring for a few days 
until the arrival of the other boat's crew with a new 
boat. 

Having collected at one spot all the blubber taken 
within the bay, it was deemed advisable to proceed to a 
place which was denominated Devil's-bight. It was a 
dangerous place for boats to approach, but a good place 
for elephants. After having buried all of our provision 
in this place, we proceeded to Devil's-bight in search of 
our prey. Here we were employed two or three days 
in killing elephants and securing the blubber. 

It had been our original design to have left this place 



Or THOMAS W. SMITH. J 43 

§s soon as possible, for fear of being blocked in by a 
sudden gale of wind, which would certainly prove to our 
great disadvantage. But, notwithstanding the precau- 
tion which we had exercised for the prevention of this 
foreseen disaster, we were finally hemmed in by a se- 
vere gale, which commenced on the second night after 
our arrival, while our work was unfinished. The wind 
continued to blow for two days with such violence, 
that it raised a tremendous sea, which broke over the 
sunken rocks within the bight to such a degree, that it 
was impossible for us, for nine days, to launch a boat ; 
in consequence of which, on the seventh day of our 
landing, we were brought to a starving condition, our 
provision being then exhausted. This drove us to the 
disagreeable necessity of subsisting on Penguin flesh for 
several days. At length the sea having become more 
quiet, we ventured to make an attempt to launch a boat, 
but our efforts proved ineffectual. Three different times 
we attempted to launch the boats, but they were filled 
and turned over against the rocks. It was with great 
difficulty that we saved a few things from the great suc- 
tion of the surf. One man was severely injured by the 
boat which went over him. At the third attempt 1 was 
very much injured between the rocks and the boat. The 
injury I received left me powerless, and had it not been 
for one of the men, who saw my condition, and who took 
me by the hand and threw me into a boat, 1 should 
undoubtedly have been killed. 

Having been released at last from this horrible place, 
we immediately proceeded towards the place where our 
provisions were buried, where we arrived in a few hours 
and heartily partook of a wholesome meal, after having 
subsisted on carrion for four days. On arrival here, we 
met our shallop, which had been waiting for us several 
days. After loading her for the ship, we proceeded to 
the east end of the island, with the special orders to 
concentrate our blubber at Cooper's Harbor, it being 
the only suitable place for a shallop to come to anchor 
to take in her cargo. We labored with unabated ener- 
gy and collected about twenty tons of blubber at the 



144 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

appointed place previous to the arrival of the shallop. 
Two days subsequent to her arrival, our schooner, which 
was on her voyage round the island, came into this har- 
bor in consequence of adverse winds. 

We had been busily engaged since the arrival of the 
shallop in getting our blubber on board. This task be- 
ing accomplished, I was invited on board to spend the 
night, by a young man, who had been a messmate of 
mine, and with whom I was intimately acquainted. Af- 
ter having spent a few agreeable hours, we retired to 
refresh our wearied bodies. At 10 o'clock the captain 
of the sloop was informed by the watchman, that there 
was a heavy swell and a strong breeze setting into the 
harbor. This information brought the captain on deck, 
who immediately called the crew to take out the small 
anchor. This being done, we retired to our beds, not 
apprehending any danger from the present appearance 
of the weather, but in this we were greatly mistaken. 

At 12 o'clock the captain was again informed by the 
watchman, that the sea and wind were increasing rapid- 
ly, and that it was necessary to give the vessel more ca- 
ble. This was immediately done to the utmost extent, 
in order to prevent the vessel from dragging her an- 
chor. At day-light the sea had risen to such a degree 
that it broke fairly over the vessel with great violence, 
and we began to be alarmed for c*ir safety ; for my part 
I wished more than once that I had been sufficiently 
wise to have staid on shore, under the boat, in safety. 

The gale continued to increase, and it was now evi- 
dent to me, that our hopes and safety hung on a single 
thread in her cable, on which our fate impended. By 8 
o'clock, A. M. the gale had increased to such an extent, 
that it was considered dangerous for any one to be on 
deck. We were now in great anxiety for our preserva- 
tion, as we were in momentary expectation of our ves- 
sel's parting her best bower, our whole dependence ; and 
if this took place, we were confident of our vessel's 
irretrievable loss. While ruminating on our deplorable 
condition, the captain of the sloop, who was the chief 
npate of the ship, and who stood on the cabin steps, 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 145 

watching the vessel, announced to us that there were two 
or three tremendous heavy waves rolling towards the 
vessel, which would certainly strike her, and, in his opin- 
ion, would cause her to part her cables. He then ad- 
ded ; l Be ready boys, to jump on deck, and save your- 
selves, if you can 1" This was scarcely out of his 
mouth, when a tremendous crash was heard and felt by 
the shaking of the vessel. At this the captain ciied ; 
* There it is, boys ! she's gone ! The best bower ca- 
ble's parted — she will soon be on the rocks ! !' At this 
long expected announcement we rushed on deck for our 
lives. We endeavored to go forward to give the vessel 
more cable on the other anchor, but all in vain. This 
was frustrated by a tremendous sea, which swept four of 
us against the tafferel and were nigh being swept over- 
board. The vessel was dragging her anchor and rapid- 
ly approaching the rocks. Soon she struck, and was 
driven by the sea on a rock near the small beach where 
she remained upright with her head towards the sea. 
As soon as the vessel grounded on the rock, the sea op- 
erated more powerfully on her, which made it a great 
deal more difficult for us to keep our hold. The sea 
was now breaking half-mast over us. We had not 
been on the rock many minutes when a tremendous sea 
came rolling in and swept two young men over the taf- 
ferel, and one was landed high on shore ; he saved him- 
self from the retiring wave. Just at this time, the two 
boat's crews arrived, who had been anxiously watching 
us. Seeing the vessel was drifting on the shore, they 
immediately ran to our assistance, but they came too 
late to save the much lamented Johnson, the young man 
that invited me on board. This unfortunate young man 
had been left on the beach, and might have been saved, 
had any one been near to give him assistance. After 
being left by the sea, which carried him on shore* he 
actually got on his feet, but he must have been deprived 
of his reason. Instead of rushing on shore he walked 
along the water's edge*; in consequence of which* he 
gained no advantage over the succeeding wave, which 
came in, roaring furiously, and took him with the retiring 
19 



146 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

wave and carried him among the rocks, where he was 
finally dashed to pieces. 

In ten minutes after the first two had been swept 
away by the sea, the captain and three more of us who 
had been clinging to the tafferel were swept away by a 
tremendous sea. Out of the four, two of us, being light, 
were thrown upon the beach with great violence, and 
immediately secured by the men on shore. The mate 
of the ship, and another man were not carried so high 
up, in consequence of which they were drawn among 
the rocks by the draw-back. Two or three men went 
in among the rocks with long ropes fastened round their 
waists, to save them. Every possible exertion was made, 
and they at last succeeded in saving one of them: the 
other, the chief mate of the ship, w ? as carried in between 
the rocks, where was a dangerous whirlpool, and beyond 
human assistance ; but notwithstanding all this, so great 
were the exertions of the men that they came near sav- 
ing him. They would have succeeded, had it not been 
for a tremendous sea setting in upon them, drawing them 
among the rocks also, and carrying the mate totally out 
of reach. He was seen waving his hand as he was car- 
ried away by the back sea, among the rocks, and he was 
finally overwhelmed and perished. 

Three days after the gale, he was picked up with his 
skull stove in. Of the remains of Johnson, one thigh 
bone and one arm were the only parts of the body that 
could be found. When this melancholy disaster became 
fully known to the ship's crew, the loss of the mate and 
the boy were much lamented, as they were both amiable, 
particularly the mate, who had gained the good will and 
favor of the crew. After collecting the useful remains 
of the wreck, and all the blubber that it was possible for 
us to save, they were put on board the schooner, and she 
sailed for the ship, accompanied by our two boats. After 
our arrival at the ship, being well aware of the scarcity 
of the elephants, it was thought to be a suitable time for 
the schooner to take a voyage for a month of observation 
for elephants, to the Sandwich Islands, which are about 
five degrees to the southward and eastward of Georgia. 

It was thought by our officers, who were well experi- 



Or THOMAS W. SMITH. 147 

enced voyagers in the elephant trade, that the elephants 
which crowded to the shores of Georgia, must of neces- 
sity come from some land situated farther to the south. 

Having prepared the vessel for the voyage, our boat 
and crew were chosen to go in the vessel, to assist in 
loading her in case she should make the desired discov- 
ery. The vessel being ready we proceeded on our voy- 
age in hopeful anxiety for the good success of our enter- 
prize. 

After leaving the bay, we took a good north-wester, 
which in three days took us in sight of Freezeland Peak, 
which was thus denominated by us in consequence of its 
immense bight, and the quantity of ice and snow with 
which its sides were adorned and its summit crowned. 

Having made the land, and being sufficiently near it 
with the vessel, the two boats were sent to examine the 
shore, while the vessel continued sailing along the high 
and terrific iron-bound coast. We continued our exam- 
ination for three days, without discovering a harbor or a 
living creature on the shore. The only place that was 
discovered, resembling a harbor, was a half-moon bight, 
which was open to the sea, with scarcely a landing place 
in it. Here we landed, it being the only place where 
we could get on shore, to see if we could discover any 
traces of elephants or seals, but our efforts proved 
fruitless in this attempt. 

While on shore we picked up several lava-stones, 
which we supposed had been thrown out of a high and 
terrific volcano, which rose eight or nine hundred feet 
above the level of the sea, and at whose base we had 
landed. 

This volcano might, with the strictest propriety, be 
denominated one of the wonders of the world. One 
peculiarity consisted in the Iceburg with which its sides 
were decorated, and which occasionally fell with a crash 
resembling a distant peal of thunder. One side of the 
mountain was covered with white, brilliant snow, on which 
the sun poured its darting and animating rays, adding 
lustre to the sublime scene. Another peculiarity which 
this volcano possesses, is, that it is one of nature's light- 
houses, planted in the midst of a distant ocean by that 



148 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

unseen hand, to serve as a beacon to the fearless mari- 
ner. 

When the sun has descended beneath the western 
and southern horizon; when the dark curtains of night 
are spread over the venerable head of this majestic 
mount, it throws forth from its crater scarlet flames min- 
gled with huge, red-hot, melted lava-stones, which roll 
down its sides to the sea. 

Having faithfully examined the coast, we made sail, 
steered for Georgia, and arrived along side of the ship in 
four days. We were now sent to the westward, to col- 
lect all the blubber that might eome within our reach, 
and to await the arrival of a shallop that our captain was 
to purchase from a ship on the south side of the island. 
As our schooner was going round the island with two 
boat's crews, our captain took passage in her to accom- 
plish this business. 

The shallop was bought for £700, for which he gave 
a draft on the owners in London. She was a new ves- 
sel, a fast sailer of 80 tons burthen. It was now gener- 
ally believed among the crew, that with the aid of this 
fine and beautiful vessel, notwithstanding our ill success 
in losing the other, we should finally succeed in procur- 
ing a voyage before the setting in of the winter. But it 
was not for us to know the events of the hidden future. 

The shallop was entrusted to the command of Mr. 
Maclow, the chief mate of the schooner, and a very effi- 
cient and capable man, but totally unacquainted with the 
coast on the north side of the island. The vessel sailed 
for the ship to take in a supply of provisions for herself 
and our boat's crew, who had now been three weeks ab- 
sent from the ship. After her arrival at the ship, she 
took in her provision and sailed for our boats to sup- 
ply us, and also to take in fifty tuns of blubber which 
our boats had collected. The shallop having arrived 
to our boats at Fresh-water Bay, we put several tuns of 
blubber on board, and proceeded along the coast to the 
several places where we had collected it, and put it all 
on board. We proceeded in this manner into several 
bays along the coast, until we arrived at Hog Bay, which 
is a small bay situated at the foot of the Bay of Islands. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 149 

While the vessel laid off the harbor, we put several tuns 
of blubber on board of her. It being now nearly dark, 
and being favored with a good wind, it was agreed on by 
the officers that the sloop should continue her course un- 
til she should arrive at the safe anchorage, where we had 
12 tons of blubber to put on board of her. Accordingly 
all sail was immediately made on the Lovely Nancy, this 
being the name of the vessel. Having a stiff breeze 
she swiftly glided along the bosom of the deep, uncon- 
scious of her future fate. The night advanced ; it was 
so dark that it was with great difficulty that the land could 
be seen at a distance of one hundred yards from the ves- 
sel. During this time the vessel's crew, seven in num- 
ber, were employed in keeping a lookout to avoid all pos- 
sible danger. 

By nine o'clock the vessel had advanced within three 
miles of the harbor, and there was now but one small 
island for her to pass, which was about one hundred 
yards long, at thein-shore point; off which was aflat sun- 
ken rock about five or six feet beneath the surface of the 
water. As we were in immediate expectation of mak- 
ing this island, all hands were anxiously employed in 
looking out for it. 1 was on the deck at this time, but 
was driven below by a shower of rain, which just at this 
time had commenced to fall. I had scarcely set down 
when I heard the report of "land ho !" It was the ex- 
pected island. At this the captain sung out : "put your 
helm up, ease off the main sheet; steady she goes boy." 
"Steady", replied the helms-man. In five minutes a great 
noise was heard, which proceeded from the bottom of 
the vessel, and it was succeeded in a moment by a tre- 
mendous rocking of the vessel on a rock. In a moment 
we all rushed on deck, and as I happened to be near the 
steps I was the second one on deck. As soon as I gain- 
ed the deck, on viewing the condition of the vessel, I 
ascertained on a moment's reflection that there was no 
time to be lost in making an effort to save ourselves. 
We immediately hauled our boats to the stern of the 
vessel and made all possible haste to get into them. 
While we were endeavoring to get into the boats the 
sloop's crew were engaged in hauling down the sails. 



150 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

Just at this critical period I was within a hair's breadth 
of the termination of my life by the swinging of the 
main boom over my head as I was a dropping into the 
boat along side. I knew not how to account for the 
mismanagement on the part of the boat's crew on this 
occasion, excepting that it was occasioned by the gener- 
al confusion which took place the moment the vessel 
struck. Be it as it may, one thing is sure, and that is 
this, that out of twelve hands which belonged to the 
boats, I was the only one that got into one ofthem. The 
other boat took in eleven hands and immediately de- 
serted the vessel and were out sight, notwithstanding my 
loud calling to them and the entreaties of two boys be- 
longing to the sloop, who had got into the boat. I imme- 
diately got hold of the steering oar and advised the oth- 
er boys to clear the boat from the vessel in order to lay 
her stern on the side of the vessel, and thus shun the 
danger of losing the boat by the rocking of the vessel. 
Having performed this duty the sloop's crew was taken 
off in safety ; but while we were backing off from the 
vessel I perceived her sliding off the rock. I reported 
the fact to the captain of the sloop, who was sitting mute 
and disconsolate, ruminating on our sad misfortune. In 
a moment he was upon his feet and commanded to be 
put on board of her which was immediately done. Ev- 
ery possible effort was made to save the vessel, but all 
our efforts proved fruitless. She went down in eight 
fathoms of water and came near taking her small boat 
down with her and four men in it, who had imprudently 
stayed on board pumping to the last minute. Just at 
this time a terrible rain-storm commenced. We had three 
miles to row before we could arrive at a place where we 
could land in safety. All this while I was bare-headed, 
occasioned by the main-boom's knocking my cap off at 
the time when I was getting into the boat. At last we 
landed on the desired spot in the midst of a cold and 
chilly rain, which had nearly chilled us through ; and 
to add to our present distress, we were under the neces- 
sity of passing a miserable night under the boats. To- 
wards morning the rain-storm turned into a severe freez- 
ing snow-storm which prevented us from proceeding to 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 151 

the ship with the mournful news of our disaster. How- 
ever, the severity of the storm did not prevent me from 
executing my desires in discovering the remains of the 
vessel. Accordingly I prevailed on one of the boys to 
accompany me three miles down the beach to discover 
if possible the remains of the wreck, and w T e had the 
satisfaction of enjoying the reward of our labor. We 
saw at a short distance from the island the top of the 
sloop's mast above water. 

Having made this important discovery we immediately 
returned to our company, and without acquainting any 
one, launched the little boat and proceeded to the sun- 
ken vessel. We found the top of the mast and the 
peak of her gaff above water. Having made this dis- 
covery we returned and gave information to the officers 
to that effect, which in some degree revived their droop- 
ing spirits and raised their fu'ure hopes of her recovery. 

After this we proceeded to the ship bearing the mel- 
ancholy tidings, which so affected the captain that he was 
near putting an end to his existence. Early on the fol- 
lowing morning we were hastily aroused to man the 
boats and proceed immediately to the assistance of the 
schooner which was then drifting on the rocks at the 
mouth of the harbor by the severity of the north- 
west gale which was then blowing out of the har- 
bor. We rowed directly on board of the schooner and 
boarded just at the time when her stern post was twenty 
feet from the perpendicular black rocks, against which 
she must have been inevitably knocked to pieces had it 
not been for oar united exertions in cutting her cable and 
swinging her off clear. She drifted out of the harbor to 
encounter the furious gale, w T hich was then raging with 
unwonted fury. 

We were now in the midst of the mighty deep to en- 
dure the hardship and severity of a tremendous gale, 
which continued to rage over twelve days, during which 
time we were in a state of starvation, there being a de- 
ficiency of provision on board of the vessel. We were 
driven off into the ocean at a great distance and we gave 
up all hopes of ever regaining the land. But at last the 



152 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

wind changed suddenly in our favor, and enabled us 
once more to regain the ship. 

After our arrival, preparations were made to raise the 
sloop. Accordingly all things being ready we proceeded 
to the Bay of Islands, and after waiting a favorable op- 
portunity, the sloop was raised to the surface of the wa- 
ter by the schooner, but in conseqnence of the quantity 
of stone ballast she had in her, which served to increase 
her weight greatly, the cable with which she was raised, 
parted before a preventive could be got round her and 
she again fell to the bottom, and not having another op- 
portunity to raise her in consequence of the severity of 
the weather, she became a total loss which was grie- 
vously felt by us all. The loss of the sloop and sixty 
or seventy tons of blubber, struck a dead blow at the 
prosperity of our voyage. 

After our failure in raising the sloop, the schooner ac- 
companied by two boat's crews was despatched round 
the island in search of seals, the season for elephants 
being then over. 

We continued our unwearied exertions in the midst 
of a severe winter season round this perilous shore for 
three successive months, during which time my life had 
been three different times in most imminent danger. 
Once by falling into the sea from an iceberg over which 
we were launching our boat. At another time I was 
accidentally pushed into the sea by a blundering Irish boy 
from the top of a slippery rock, twenty feet high, but 
fortunately the back surf took me off from the rock, 
which gave the boat that was lying off a chance to pick 
me up and thus once more I was saved from a watery 
grave by an interposition from heaven. 

After we had taken from the south side of the island 
six thousand seals, our provision being short, it was 
deemed advisable to proceed to the ship to prepare for 
the pupping-cowl season, as it was now near Spring. 
Accordingly we proceeded to examine every place on 
our way taking up our lodgings at night on board of the 
schooner ; but in case that we should be separated from 
the schooner by a storm we generally took a week's pro- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 153 

vision in the boat, which was allowed, in common chances, 
to be sufficient to take us to the ship. 

It so happened one day that our boat fell in with a 
number of seals, in consequence of which we were be- 
lated and were unable to reach the schooner that even- 
ing. This compelled us to seek refuge on shore for the 
night, anticipating fair weather in the morning to proceed 
on our way towards the ship, which was then 100 miles 
distant. On awaking in the morning we ascertained that 
our anticipations would probably not be realized, it was 
then blowing a gale from the south-west, which necessa- 
rily compelled the schooner to make the best of her 
way towards the ship as the wind was favorable for her, 
and at the same time compelled us to remain inactive, 
notwithstanding our critical situation for three successive 
weeks, which was the duration of the gale. Our pro- 
vision being exhausted in the course of 6 days,we were un- 
der the necessity of sustaining nature on Penguin's hearts 
and livers, and occasionally on the carcass itself. But 
notwithstanding our necessity I was thankful that our 
lot was cast where it was ; for it happened to be in the 
midst of a large, king-penguin rookery, and had it been 
at any other place we must inevitably have starved to 
death before a favorable change in the weather took 
place. This food although it satisfied the cravings of 
nature, was inadequate to maintain the healthy standard 
of the human constitution, consequently our flesh wasted 
away to an incredible extent. 

After the gale was over we exerted our remaining 
strength and fortitude and again launched our little boat 
into the deep, and having a light favorable breeze pro- 
ceeded towards the ship, to which we arrived in three 
days to the astonishment of the crew, who had given 
us up for lost. We were so altered in our external ap- 
pearance in consequence of our sufferings and privations 
that we were unknown at first sight to many of the crew, 
but what added much to our change and appearance was 
the state of our skins which came off in flakes as large 
as a dollar, and continued to do so until the whole of our 
skin had been completely renewed. 

After a few weeks respite,having recruited our strength 
20 



154 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

we again commenced operation, and in three months, 
notwithstanding the severe losses which we had sustained, 
we finally succeeded in filling our ship, and in the middle 
of January sailed for England with 400 tuns of oil and 
ten thousand seal skins. 

On our passage home we touched at Fernanda norona 
to refresh. It is a Portuguese island on the coast of 
Brazil, a mere rock, where they used then Jo transport 
their convicts from the main. The next place we touch- 
ed at to refresh was at Fayal, one of the Azore islands, 
which is also a Portuguese island with a considerable of 
a town and population, enjoying a prosperous share of 
of trade. 

Having refreshed the ship we proceeded to London, 
where we arrived in ten weeks to the joy of all. 

On our arrival at London we ascertained the failure of 
our owner,in consequence of which the ship and cargo fell 
into the hands of his creditors. 

As my time had now expired, I was left destitute of 
all means to sustain life, having neither money nor friends 
to assist me in my destitute condition. But had I been 
justly treated by the assignees 1 should not have been 
wnder the necessity of suffering privation, as £3 of my 
apprentice money was due to me and five or six more 
justly due me for my over time. But having no 
means to compel them to settle the apprentices' accounts, 
I as well as the rest was unjustly deprived of my hard 
earnings. 

Being placed in low circumstances I was under the 
necessity of pledging my clothes from time to time to 
procure food. 

Four weeks after my arrival in London, I succeeded 
in obtaining a ship going a vovage to the same island, and 
as I had served my time in that trade and possessed con- 
siderable knowledge of the country I was the more read- 
ily accepted by the captain. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 155 



CHAPTER XII. 

Departure from London in the ship Admiral, Coalpoise; touches at 
St. Jago ; arrival at South Georgia ; the ship is secured in the 
harbor ; commences operations ; successful enterprize ; visited 
by an iceberg, which drifted on the ship's anchor ; loss of the 
ship and part of her cargo ; arrival of the author in London. 

NINTH VOYAGE. 

In the latter part of May, 1818, I sailed in the ship 
Admiral, Coalpoise, bound to South Georgia. Having 
left London, we proceeded on our voyage with jovial 
hearts, anticipating a short and prosperous voyage. On 
our passage out we touched at the Island of St. Jago for 
live stock ; and after having sufficiently supplied the 
vessel, we again made sail on our swift little ship and 
proceeded to our destined isle, without meeting with 
any thing of special interest on our passage. At last, 
after great and diligent exertions on the part of the cap- 
tain and crew to make the passage as short as possible, 
we succeeded in making the land in nine weeks from 
the day of our departure from the Land's End of En- 
gland. 

We run down the south side of the island and enter- 
ed a small harbor, denominated the Rookery, in which 
we brought our little ship to anchor and secured head 
and stern, and immediately after proceeded to strike 
down her top-masts and prepare her for the season. 
The ship being now safely secured; the boats were de- 
patched to the nearest beaches, which were lined with 
animals, to commence the slaughter. We continued our 
work with such success, that in 10 weeks we succeeded 
in putting into the ship 1500 barrels of oil, out of 1800, 
' which was supposed to have been sufficient to fill her. 
Thus far we had succeeded well in our enterprize ; but 
notwithstanding the extraordinary success with which we 
were favored, we soon experienced a reverse of fortune., 



156 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

We were now visited by a severe gale of wind ; it 
continued its fury for several days in succession, by 
which means a tremendous iceberg was driven into the 
mouth of our little harbor, which continued its progress 
until it had completely entered the harbor and grounded 
at a short distance from our anchor. This circumstance 
was the cause of producing an unusual degree of excite- 
ment and alarm among the crew for the safety of the 
vessel. 

Every possible means was employed for the preser- 
vation of the vessel. Cannon were fired as a means of 
demolishing the iceberg, but without effect. The gale 
still continued to blow from the south, which was the 
cause of an unusual high tide. This rolled the iceberg 
in, until finally, it rested upon our anchorage and cable, 
the latter of which was soon severed by it and our 
beautiful little ship immediately went on shore and bilg- 
ed on the rocks, with which the unlucky harbor was 
trongly hemmed. 

Previous to this lamentable disaster I had cherished 
exalted anticipations of prosperity, in this voyage ; -but 
my anticipations now vanished. The ship was a 
complete wreck and all hopes of her recovery were 
banished from our minds. A large hole was now cut in 
her lee-side and a great part of the cargo was saved by 
this means and taken by the shallop to another ship 
which belonged to the same owners and which laid 60 
miles from us. In her we obtained a passage to En- 
gland, which was performed in three months. Thus, af- 
ter the absence of nine months, 1 again arrived in Lon- 
don, as poor as I left it. 

The quantity of oil, saved from the wreck, did not 
exceed 7 or 800 barrels. This, according to my lay, did 
not give me a share of more than 3 barrels, and this 
was scarcely sufficient to defray my expenses. But on 
this occasion I did not suffer privations ; having obtain- 
ed a boarding place on the credit of the succeeding 
voyage. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 157 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Departure of the Hetty ; touches at Bonavista ; narrow escape of 
being washed overboard 5 arrival at Falkland islands ; enter 
Barclay's Sound ; arrival at South Shetland » proceed along the 
coast ; come to anchor and narrowly escape being lost ; search 
after seal and discover a ship's harbor, in an opposite island j 
arrival at the harbor and meet several vessels there ; the shore 
lined with seals ; landing of the boats' crews to kill seals • pre- 
vented from killing them by other ships' crews ; search for a 
new sealing ground • strange crews attempt a landing ; they 
are prevented ; they walk overland and succeed in killing 8000 
seals , detected and driven off the beach ■ near escape of being 
drowned ; seized by a large sea lion ; departure for England ; 
arrival at London ; the owners defraud the crew - } law-suit with 
the owners. 

TENTH VOYAGE. 

In the course of a few weeks I shipped on board of 
the schooner Hetty, of London, bound on a whaling and 
sealing voyage, to the then newly discovered islands of 
New South Shetland, situate in latitude 65 degrees 
south. We sailed on this voyage in the summer of 
1820. 

Having sailed down the channel, we took our depart- 
ure from the Land's End, of England, and steered our 
course direct for Bonavista, a Portuguese island, to pro- 
vide the vessel with a sufficient quantity of salt for the 
purpose of salting seal-skins. We were more than 
usually favored with a pleasant and fair wind, which in 
twenty days conveyed us to the destined port in safety. 

Previous to arrival at Bonavista, we took a large whal e, 
which made 75 barrels of oil. At this place, having ta- 
ken a sufficient supply of salt, we again weighed anchor 
and cheefully proceeded towards the south pole, unmo- 
lested, until we approached near Falkland islands, where 
we experienced some rough and severe weather, and 
particularly on the night before our entering the harbor. 
I came near being washed overboard by a tremendous 



158 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

sea, which broke over the vessel's quarter and swept me 
over her lee-rail ; and had I not happened to catch hold 
of the lashing of a water-cask I must have found a wa- 
tery grave. 

Early in the morning, we entered Barclay's sound, at 
the head of which we came to anchor for the purpose 
of renewing our stock of water. Here we remained two 
weeks, during which we spent several days in shooting 
wild geese, with which the island abounds ; and we were 
also successful in shooting three large pigs, and a large 
wild bull, which served to supply us with fresh food for 
some time. These islands are worthy of cultivation, as 
they possess good, rich and extensive tracts of land. 

From Falkland islands we took our departure for our 
destined port, at which we arrived after making a pros- 
perous passage of two weeks. The first island we ap- 
proached was high and terrific in appearance ; it was 50 
or 60 miles in circumference and totally devoid of a 
landing place for human beings. Having examined it, 
we sailed towards the main island, which was a long tract, 
the end of which we did not have the pleasure of dis- 
covering. About sun-down we. came near to several 
small islands which laid about 20 miles distant from the 
main. Nenr one of these we came to anchor for the 
night, and on the following morning we proceeded to 
examine them for seals, but were unsuccesful in our at- 
tempts, not finding any thing except a few sea-leopards. 
Meeting with no successs we immediately weighed an- 
chor and proceeded towards the main island to endea- 
vor to discover some harbor, but finding it be an iron- 
bound shore, as far as we could discover, we stood to 
the eastward in search of a suitable harbor. We sailed 
in this direction for two days passing several rocks, reefs 
and icebergs. On the third day we landed on a small 
island, after rowing round it, which was about 8 mites 
in circumference and about 15 feet above the level of 
the sea. It was nearly flat on its surface and covered 
with ice and snow. But what mostly attracted our at- 
tention and for which we could not account, was the 
number of rocks of different sizes which overspread its 
surface and had not the least visible appearance of be- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 159 

ing united with the soil, but were raised and sustained by 
8 or 10 feet of ice above the ground. Some of the 
rocks which were thus supported were judged to weigh 
20 tons. But the question arises, how came they so ? 
The question which is here propounded is a problem for 
the reader to solve. Having examined the island we 
proceeded to another which lay 15 miles to the east- 
ward at which we arrived late in the afternoon ; and 
finding a small inlet, we came to anchor in supposed 
safety for the night. In the course of the night the 
wind from the west commenced blowing directly into 
the inlet, and by sunrise it blew a heavy breeze, which 
alarmed us for our safety. But fortunately for us, the 
wind abated before it changed, for had it changed two 
points either way, we must unavoidably have gone on 
the rocks, as the inlet would not admit of giving the ves- 
sel more cable. The gale abated on the following day, 
and the sky became clear and the surrounding elements 
serene, which gave us an opportunity to proceed in our 
work of searching round the island. We proceeded 
with our boats to different parts of the island, which was 
10 or 12 miles long, but not meeting with much success, 
after having laid there three days, during which time we 
had taken 300 seals, we left for another island, a short 
distance off, at which we soon arrived ; and after a day's 
search along the coast, we succeeded in discovering a 
ship-harbor, in which were several vessels lying at an- 
chor. Having a favorable breeze, we succeeded in gain- 
ing the harbor in which we came to anchor and were 
congratulated on our safe arrival in port, by the several 
captains, who visited us on the occasion. In the after- 
noon of the day of our arrival, our boats were sent on 
shore with strict orders to slaughter as many seals 
as we could. But on our landing, we were met by 
the crews of three vessels, who forbid us from taking 
any, claiming the beach as theirs, as they had first taken 
possession of it and were therefore determined to de- 
fend it as their own ground to the uttermost in their 
power. This was a difficulty that we had not anticipat- 
ed ; being aware that, by the laws of nations, they had 
no right to prevent us from killing the animals and ap- 



160 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

propriating them to the benefit of our voyage. But be- 
ing unable to enforce our rights against superior numbers, 
we reluctantly left the beach and returned to the vessel ; 
and after having had some deliberation on the course 
to be pursued, we were sent out of the harbor for 
seals. 

We proceeded along the coast, the distance of 25 
miles among the rocks and breakers, searching as we 
went, until our efforts were crowned with abundant suc- 
cess, by the discovery of several beaches along the coast, 
which were thronged with these animals in every direc- 
tion. Having been blessed in our discovery, the next 
question was, how to keep possession of the treasure ; 
how to prevent those ships' crews from landing on these 
beaches, being well aware of our inefficiency to repel 
them. To effect this we divided the land, which was 
then more than we needed, with two other vessels, 
which had subsequently arrived in the bay, and by 
doing this our party became the strongest. 

The other crews, finding that we had succeeded in 
discovering a number of sealing-grounds, superior to 
their own, immediately embraced the idea of land- 
ing, in spite of our opposition, and sharing with us in 
our good fortune. 

Having slain all the seals on their beach, they at- 
tempted a landing on our beach, but having notice of 
their coming, we concentrated our forces, and prevent- 
ed their landing in spite of all their efforts to effect it. — 
Being defeated in their undertaking, they reluctantly 
returned to their ships, which were making ready to sail 
for England. 

Two or three days subsequent to this occurrence, we 
were under the necessity of laboring all night, shipping 
some thousands of skins on board of our vessel, which 
we had previously prepared for her. Having finished 
our work at four o'clock in the morning, we retired under 
our boats to rest, and soon closed our eyes in profound 
slumber, in which we continued until suddenly aroused 
by a messenger dispatched from the ship Indian's crew, 
to inform us of a stratagem which had been played on 
us by the crews of the other vessels, who, taking advan- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 161 

tage of our sleep, had walked over land to our beaches, 
and slaughtered 8,000 seals. 

This news instantly aroused our indignation, and we 
immediately proceeded to the relief of our friends, but 
not without previously having had the precaution of 
sending over the hill to request the assistance of our 
friends there to drive the intruders from the beach. Our 
forces soon arrived at the ship Indian's tent, the place 
where they had slaughtered the most, and where they 
had made a stand to commence skinning the seals they 
had killed. On our arrival they were immediately or- 
dered off the beach by our officers, who at the same time 
warned them on their peril not to touch a single seal.— 
This so exasperated their officers, that they immediately 
commenced skinning, and dared any man to interrupt 
them on the penalty of the law, threatening our officers 
with prosecution on our return to England. 

The leading men of our party, seeing their audacity, 
instantly collared their leaders to prevent them from far- 
ther prosecuting their obstinate design. This act im- 
mediately threw the parties into confusion, which result- 
ed in a general and bloody engagement, in which many 
were severely injured. After they had been dealing out 
their blows for some time, two or three of us, who had 
been standing aloof from the rest, on an elevated posi- 
tion witnessing the bloody encounter, drew near to our 
mate and endeavored to induce him to desist from the 
unprofitable contest, and use his influence to bring about 
a general pacification, but before we had actually suc- 
ceeded in our mediation, the opposite party gave up the 
contest, and retreated over land to their ships, which 
sailed for England in a few days. 

The seals which had been killed were a total loss to 
both parties, as they were left to rot upon the beach, 
our party being apprehensive of the threatened law-suit 
on our arrival home. 

We continued sealing, as our vessel was not as yet 
full. Our task was hard, as we had to row a distance 
of 25 miles on our excursions, a great part of the way 
among rocks and dangerous breakers. 
21 



162 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

In performing one of these trips I came near being 
drowned in the Bay of Plymouth. This happened on 
our return from the vessel to the beach. It was bitter 
cold, and blowing a severe breeze. We were sailing in 
company with another boat, but our companion, owing 
to his good trim, gained three-quarters of a mile ahead 
of us, and we, being desirous of keeping up, carried sail 
to an extreme, and notwithstanding my repeated warn- 
ing to the young man who held the sheet, and who, by 
careful attention might have prevented the accident, he 
held on to the sheet and laughed at my fears, when a 
squall struck the boat. I had just got the word of cau- 
tion out of my mouth, when, in an instant the boat was 
overset by the violent gust, and we floated by her side, 
grasping after her for our lives. Every time that we 
grasped at the boat those of us who could not swim sunk 
down and rose up again to make another attempt at her, 
as she went round and round with us. At last, after 
having been round several times, the mate and two oth- 
ers, who were good swimmers, got to the opposite side 
of us, and balanced the boat bottom up. By so doing 
we were enabled to keep on her bottom until taken off 
by the other boat's crew, who came to our assistance. 

While on the boat trembling and shivering with cold, 
the young man to whom I justly attributed the blame of 
our present misfortune, who a kw minutes before had 
laughed at my fears and my caution, was so fearful and 
cowardly that he could not refrain from crying. I was 
so exasperated with him at the time, that I could not 
avoid striking and upbraiding him for his unmanly con- 
duct in permitting the boat to upset when he could have 
prevented it. Having been taken into the other boat, 
we had now nine miles to row before we could reach a 
beach, and turn over our boat to free her from water. — 
We were between two and three hours rowing to a land- 
ing place, where we lighted our boat, after which we 
went on board the vessel, and it being late in the even- 
ing, remained on board during the night, and in the morn- 
ing proceeded to the sealing ground to our labor, where 
we arrived in safety. 

Two or three days subsequent to this, another accident 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 163 

took place, by which I came near losing my left leg by 
the bite of a large seal, occasioned by missing my blow, 
when it immediately siezed me above the knee, but I 
partly avoided its grasp by stepping backward quickly, 
which prevented it from taking a strong hold on my thigh. 
Two of its tusks went in an inch deep, the other two 
grazed the skin, and had it not been for the immediate 
assistance of one of my ship-mates near me, who knock- 
ed the seal down, it would have succeeded in renewing 
its hold upon my limb, which must have been torn to pie- 
ces or broken off. We continued our work, and in a 
few weeks, accomplished filling our vessel. We then 
sailed for England with 15,000 seal skins and 75 barrels 
of sperm oil, which was considered a good voyage. We 
proceeded on our passage towards England, where we ar- 
rived in safety, performing our voyage from London and 
back to London again, in ten months to a day. 

At the time of our departure from the island for En- 
gland, with a full cargo, our hopes were elevated, and 
our prospects for a profitable voyage w r ere flattering.— 
But during our absence the market prices of skins had fal- 
len from 30 shillings to 6 shillings. 

After the arrival of the vessel in London, the cargo 
was taken by the owners and put into a store-house for 
their future benefit, while the crew, with the exception 
of three of us, who entered an action against them, were 
paid off at a considerable less rate than the market price. 
In consequence of these fraudulent proceedings, the 
amount of their wages was reduced to a mere trifle. 

The suit which we entered against the owners, was 
put into the court of chancery, there to remain for two 
years, before it could be brought to trial. Having been 
on shore for about ten weeks, without the means of de- 
fraying my expenses, I was under the necessity of draw- 
ing ten guineas from my attorney for this purpose. 

As 1 was now about shipping to sail round Cape Horn 
on a sperm-whale voyage, I was advised to give the lady 
with whom I boarded power to draw the balance of my 
voyage after the trial should have taken place, which I 
expected would occur during my absence from En- 
gland. The document was drawn, signed, and left in 
her possession , 



164 LIFE AND TRAVELS 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Departure from London ; arrives at Cape Horn ; sails by Juan 
Fernandez ; arrives off of Arica ; meets with success ; arrives 
at Payta ; departure from Payta ; a large school of whales ; the 
author in the whale'b mouth ; succeeds in killing the whale, 
which makes 85 barrels of oil ; attacks another school ; boat is 
stove ; the whale takes off the cooper of the ship on her back ; 
arrival at the Gallipagos ; takes 300 terrapins ; sails for the wes- 
tern ground ; sails for Chili ; touches at Easter isle ; description 
or the natives, the island and its productions ; arrives at Salango 
bay; disturbance in the ship; arrival at the Gallipagos; des. 
cnption of the island ; sufferings and dangers attending terrapin- 
ning; the author is compelled to drink terrapins blood; arrival at 
Payta ; desertion of an apprentice ; the crew is tried by the cap- 
tain of the port ; the crew honorably acquitted by the captain of 
the port ; the crew put in prison ; sufferings and losses of the 
author ; sails for Guayaquil ; arrives and ships on board the 
Louiza ; the author is attacked by a Bolivian dragoon ; sails with 
the Colombian expedition for Upper Peru ; description of the city 
and the surrounding country; arrival of the expedition at Arica; 
v disembarkation of the army for the interior ; retreat of the royal 
army ; division of the Colombian army ; the royalists attack the 
Colombians ; defeat of the Colombians ; disastrous retreat of the 
Colombians into the ship ; arrival of the disastrous expedition at 
Callao ; the author leaves his ship and ships on board the Perse- 
verance ; arrives at Panama ; goes to Truxillo ; taken by the 
pirates ; lady Mosby and part of the crew are put into a small 
boat at a distance from the land without the means to gain the 
shore ; original design of the pirates ; the author takes passage 
to Guayaquil; the pirates frustrated in their original design; 
they scuttle the vessel, get into the woods and are detected ; re- 
covery of the Perseverance ; she arrives at Guayaquil ; execu- 
tion of the pirates ; the author ships on board of the Per- 
severance and proceeds on a smuggling voyage ; travels to 
the city of Lima; capture of Lima and Callao ; arrival 
of the Peruvian squadron at Callao ,• the author is pressed 



OP THOMAS W. SMITH. 165 

by the Spaniards and put on board of the Pasualla brig of 
war ; the Peruvian attacks the Spanish ships at Callao ; a se- 
vere battle is fought ; ships on board of a Spanish privateer ; 
takes three prizes and escapes being taken by the Peruvi- 
an frigate ; arrival of a Spanish squadron at Callao from 
Spain ; battle off Callao ; return of the squadron to Callao ; the 
author leaves the war brig, and witnesses a severe battle between 
Lima and Callao ; ships on board of the Robert of London ; the 
defence of Callao ; the siege of Callao ; the capitulation of Cal- 
lao ; description of the city of Lima ; departure for England; 
arrival at Liverpool j has a severe fever ; is robbed vhile his 
life is despaired of. 

ELEVENTH VOYAGE. 

Having no other mode of obtaining an honest liveli- 
hood I was under the necessity of shipping on another 
voyage, and accordingly engaged on board of the ship 
Spring Grove, of London. We sailed from London in 
1821 with a stout and jovial crew. We proceeded on 
our passage, which proved prosperous until we arrived off 
Cape Horn, where we met with severe and unfavorable 
winds, which continued to impede our passage round the 
cape for six weeks. Here we suffered much from the 
severity of the weather. At last we were favored with 
clear weather and a good breeze to which we joyfully 
spread our lofty sails and steered our bark for the golden 
coast of Peru. The wind still continuing in our favor, 
we were enabled in a [e\v days to appear within sight of 
the Alpine coast of Chili and soon passed by the roman- 
tic Isle of Juan Fernandez, which gave rise to the inter- 
esting history of Robinson Crusoe. We continued our 
course and we soon arrived off the town of Arica where 
we commenced whaling, and in two months took in 500 
barrels of oil. 

As the whaling season on this ground was nearly over, 
our captain deemed it advisable to take the ship into port 
to refresh the crew and prepare her to sail westward as far 
as 110 deg. west longitude, to take the benefit of the 
season there. Accordingly we sailed down the coast and 
entered the port of Payta, which lies in the latitude oi 5 



166 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

south. After having laid there two weeks, recruiting, 
we made sail for the Gallapagos Islands, where we were 
to take in 500 turtles to accomplish the recruitment of 
the ship for the ensuing season. 

We had not sailed many miles distance from the har- 
bor when we were apprised by the man at the mast- 
head of a large school of whales, being very near the 
ship, which were going, heads out, with great rapidity 
to the windward. We immediately lowered our boats to 
meet them and bring the school to, if possible, but not- 
withstanding the promptitude with which we performed 
this duty, some of the school had already passed the 
ship by the time that the boats had shoved off in pur- 
suit. We had not gone more than 400 yards to wind- 
ward of the ship when all at once we were surrounded 
by hundreds of whales. Among this vast multitude our 
mate perceived one which looked larger than the rest 
and which he took to be the school-master. As he was 
at a short distance from us we immediately rowed to him 
and fastened. The whale instantly cut his flooks and 
darted ahead with the velocity of a cannon ball about 100 
yards, and went down all at once; but at no great dis- 
tance beneath the surface. This was known by the short- 
ness of the time that he was beneath the water, which 
could not have exceeded a minute before we found our- 
selves completely ingulfed in his mouth. How it hap- 
pened it would be imposssible to describe, as the water 
all around us had from the blood which flowed freely from 
the wounds of several whales to which the boats were 
fastened, become a sea of blood, and therefore it was 
impossible for us at the same time to discern any thing 
under water; but had the water been clear we might have 
avoided the danger. Another way by which we might 
have shunned the danger had we had time to have done 
so, would have been by hauling in the line by which 
we were fast to the fish ; it would have shown us the 
exact direction of the whale. But there was no time 
to make our escape, as the whale came up under the 
boat with his mouth open and completely took the boat 
into his mouth. Being thus ingulfed in the whale's 
mouth and threatened with immediate destruction by 



Or THOMAS W. SMITH. 167 

the shutting of his jaws, which stood erect eight feet 
above water exhibiting two tremendous rows of teeth the 
sight of which were sufficient to dismay and terrify our 
hearts, there was but one alternative for us if we would 
save ourselves and that was to take hold of his jaw 
which was one foot from my shoulder, and keep the boat 
from touching his teeth. This was the most important 
thing to be done as he was only waiting for something to 
touch his teeth in order to crush it in a moment ; and 
as I was the nearest to it, it came to my lot to perform 
this most dangerous duty, and seeing our immediate, 
and imminent danger I did not hesitate, but instantly 
rose and stood upon the gun-wale of the boat, placing 
each of my hands and fingers between each row of teeth 
and kept the boat off, and at the same time pushed the 
boat ahead and she cleared the whale. Thus we were 
almost miraculously liberated from this terrible leviathan 
of the sea. As I stood up on my feet upon the gun- 
wale, 1 had a favorable opportunity of seeing the true 
position of this terrible fish, which laid rather inclining 
on his back with his mouth open to its greatest extent, 
which was about fifteen feet from the tip of his lower 
jaw to his upper one, and which spread about six or 
eighth feet in breadth above water. The whale soon 
straightened and was killed by our mate, an excellent 
whaleman. The whale being dead he was towed alone 
side of the ship, cut up, and converted into oil, of which 
he made 85 barrels 

Having secured the oil we proceeded towards the is- 
land, and while on our passage we fell in with the ship 
Leagle of London, bound to the same islands, and while 
in company we raised a school of whales, which were 
attacked by eight boats from both ships. The school 
appeared to have been disturbed by some ship to the 
leeward, as they were going very swiftly to windward. 
All our boats got fast, but in consequence of their hav- 
ing been disquieted we were unable to bring the school 
to. In this attempt our lines and boats became foul of 
each other in consequence of which we got one boat 
stove, and the Leagle two, but what was to be lamented 
more than all, was the loss of the first cooper of that 



168 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

ship. The boat in which he was, was cut in two while 
working on the whale in consequence of which the crew 
became scattered among the wreck of the boat. Unfor- 
tunately the cooper fell on the whale's back and grasped 
the harpoon which was fastened in her back and was 
carried down. He was seen by us several limes on the 
whale's back, as she alternately sunk and rose above 
water to blow. After this we proceeded to Woods' Isl- 
and, and came to anchor in a,suitable harbor. Here we 
lay three days, during which time we collected 200 ter- 
rapins for the cruise and then proceeded to Charles' 
Island, and from thence to Sea bay where we cruised 
several days without seeing the spout of a whale. We 
then proeeeded to the westward. 

Having arrived on what was called good whaling 
ground, we cruised there three weeks without meeting 
with the anticipated success, and then departed for the 
coast of Chili. On our passage, we touched at Easter 
island to obtain some refreshments for the crew. Here 
two boats were sent to trade with the natives, while the 
ship laid off and on. The bartering articles consisted of 
bent needles and pins, buttons, beads and other trinkets, 
for which we received in return potatoes and sugar-cane. 
The pins and needles were used by them to catch fish, 
being superior to the native fish-hooks, which were 
made of hard-wood or stone. 

Easter island is about 60 miles in circumference, and 
densely populated ; the general appearance of the 
soil along the sea-coast is of a dark red, and the soil ap- 
pears to be good. They raise sugar-cane, yams and po- 
tatoes in abundance. These productions of the island, 
together with all kinds of shell-fish, which they procure 
plentifully, constitute their means of subsistence. 

The natives are of a light color, tall and handsome. 
Their chiefs are handsomely tattooed on their faces, 
necks, lips, tongues and arms. But they are in a most 
savage state, in consequence of which we did not ven- 
ture to land, but were under the necessity of laying of£ 
in our boats at a distance from the shore, while the na* 
tives swam to us with their goods. In this manner, we 
obtained a sufficient quantity of potatoes and sugar-cane 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 169 

to refresh the crew, and thus prevent the scurvy, which 
frequently visits whale-ships while performing their long 
and perilous voyages. 

While trading with the natives, we were under the 
necessity of keeping a strict lookout, with lances in our 
hands, to prevent them from upsetting our boat by tak- 
ing hold of the gunwale. An instance of this kind had 
previously occurred at this island, in which the whole of 
the boat's crew were drowned, and the boat was taken 
by the natives. 

We now proceeded towards the coast of Peru to take 
the second whaling season. We arrived off Arica, 
where we took two or three large whales, and then pro- 
ceeded to Salango Bay, to wood and water. 

While lying at Salango, a disturbance took place be- 
tween the officers and the men, which sprang from the 
vilest of personal ill-treatment, which the second mate 
thought fit to inflict on the cooper, without any just 
cause. The disturbance was amicably settled by the 
captain's promise of future kind treatment to the crew. - 

Having watered our ship, we sailed for the Gallipa- 
gos islands to take in a sufficient number of terrapins to 
last for the ensuing season on the coast. In two days 
we arrived at Chatham Island, where we took in 300 
large terrapins. The Gallipagos are four islands, situ- 
ate on or near the equator in the Pacific ocean, at a 
distance of 60 miles from the main. They are rocky 
and covered with bushes wherever there is any soil in- 
termixt with the rocks. They are all destitute of wa- 
ter, excepting Charles' Island, which has one spring sit- 
tuate on the summit of a mountain, denominated Blue 
Morris, in consequence of its resemblance to a well- 
known mountain in Wales which bears that name. 

These islands abound with terrapin, on and in the in- 
terior of the sandy beaches, and with loggerhead-turtle 
which resort to the land, at a certain time of the year, 
to deposit their eggs in the sand, which are hatched by 
the powerful rays of the sun. The terrapin resort to 
the low lands in the rainy seasons, drinking a sufficient 
quantity of water, at that time, to serve them during the 
dry season, which is six months. They then retreat to 
22 



170 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

high ground, in consequence of which the labor of the 
ship's crew, who go there to collect them, is great ; 
as they have to pass through a thicket of bushes for a 
a mile or two before they can fall in with any of them. 

Individuals have strayed away in these thickets, in 
search of terrapins, and not being able to find their way 
out, have perished there for the want of water. My 
sufferings in this particular, as well as those of some of 
my ship-mates, were great ; and we at times were under 
the extreme necessity of drinking the blood of the ter- 
rapin, and even the water of the animal, with which 
they like the camel abundantly provide themselves for 
the season. 

Having succeeded at last in obtaining a sufficient 
number of terrapin, we proceeded to the weather coast, 
to cruise for whales, in the approaching season. In the 
commencement of this season we took several large 
whales, which in the whole, made us 1200 barrels of 
sperm oil. Subsequently we cruised three months with- 
out seeing the spout of a whale. This ill luck unfortu- 
nately for us frequently drew our officers into the indul- 
gence of the inebriating-cup, which had a tendency to 
excite their animal propensities, and they frequently be- 
came unreasonably peevish with the crew, which led to 
a general dissatisfaction and a final separation of the 
parties. 

We had been five months at sea, and it was now 
deemed advisable to enter into port to refresh the crew 
and refit the ship, which was accordingly done. After 
having entered the port, and the ship being ready for 
sea, a circumstance occurred which resulted in the vol- 
untary forfeiture of my voyage. It was occasioned by 
the desertion of one of the apprentices from the ship. 
This first became known to the second mate, who, with- 
out acquainting the captain, had the audacity to take it 
upon himself to chastise one of the crew, whom he ac- 
cused, without any positive proof, of having assisted 
him to desert. 

This act aroused the indignation of every man on 
board. Several of the crew immediately interfered, and 
a general row ensued, but which was quelled by theap- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 171 

pearance of the captain on the quarter deck. To him 
the crew immediately applied for a redress from this 
gross injustice and violation of the civil law and human 
rights. 

The captain not only refused to redress the present 
and past injuries we had received, but also refused to 
promise us future kind treatment, being at the same time 
under the influence of the inebriating cup. On hearing 
this refusal to grant us justice, from his besotted lips, the 
crew retreated to the forepart of the ship, to deliberate 
and decide on a suitable and justifiable course to be pur- 
sued by them. After solemn deliberation, viewing them- 
selves in a critical position, they deemed it advisable to 
leave the ship in an honorable manner, if the captain 
would agree to their proposition. Having arrived at this 
conclusion, the crew imiuediately informed the captain 
of their willingness and desire to leave the ship and for- 
feit their voyage, rather than continue in her and be 
driven to the unpleasant necessity of taking the ship from 
him, and delivering her to the English Commodore at 
Callao, which otherwise would be done in consequence 
of his mal-treatment. 

/To this proposition the captain very readily agreed, 
and he immediately went on shore, leaving orders to 
prepare the boat to take us on shore. We commenced 
packing up our things and taking our chests on deck; 
but while engaged in this business, our captain returned 
on board with the port-master and a number of soldiers, 
to take us to prison. This malicious and evil-mind- 
ed man had been on shore and misrepresented our 
case to the port-master, who being a conscientious man, 
chose to ascertain the truth by a thorough personal 
examination of the case, by the aid of an interpreter, 
whom the captain had provided. The interpreter was 
an Englishman, and a man of no reputation. This man 
misrepresented our case in such a manner as to leave no 
doubt in the mind of the port-master of our mutinous 
conduct. 

This mean and villainous man, was undoubtedly 
bribed by our captain to misrepresent our case, in order 
to have us wrongfully punished, and thus indulge his re- 



. 



172 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

venge, which, to a wicked and malicious man, is a deli- 
cious morsel. But, fortunately, there was one among 
us, who understood every word that was said by 
the interpreter to the captain of the port, and who, to 
the surprise and astonishment of all then present, posi- 
tively and successfully contradicted the infamous misrep- 
resentation. After the interpreter had finished, I cour- 
teously addressed the port-captain, who was surprised at 
my good Spanish, and gave him a full detail of all that 
had transpired between us and the officers during the 
voyage, and the conclusion to which we had arrived in 
consequence of a refusal of better treatment, and the 
acquiescence of the captain to our leaving the ship. My 
relation, to which all the crew solemnly testified, affected 
the moral feelings of the port-master, a religious old man 
and a philanthropist, to such a degree as to draw out the 
sympathies of his moral nature, which he honestly pour- 
ed forth upon our unfortunate heads by saying, "pobias- 
itos, unastadoast.es maltratados" poor fellows, you have 
been maltreated. 

Having finished my narration of facts, he turned to 
the interpreter, who had his malicious eyes fixed on me 
during my relation, and said, "I see no cause for impris- 
oning these men, and if the captain rather than use them 
kindly, as men who have always performed their duty 
with the greatest alacrity, as he himself acknowledges, 
prefers their leaving the ship, I shall not interfere with it." 
So saying he got into his boat, and proceeded on shore 
with all his assistants. 

We then passed all our things into the boat, and went 
on shore, accompanied by two boys and the second mate, 
who were to take the boat back to the ship. We were 
permitted to lodge our things in the house of one Fran- 
cisco, a benevolent and sympathetic Spaniard. 

After having been on shore about two hours, we were 
all summoned by two alcaids or constables to appear im- 
mediately in the presence of the port-master, who was 
then waiting at his house to see us. We immediately 
obeyed the mandate, and proceeded to the house, with 
some anxiety as to the cause and result of this unexpect- 
ed summons. We were conducted by the alcaids into 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 173 

a spacious room into which the captain of the port soon 
came and addressed us in a fatherly manner by the ap- 
pellation of sons. Said he, addressing me, " I have 
now to inform you that I am under the painful ne- 
cessity of committing you all to jail for a short time by 
a special order which I have received from the Gov- 
ernor of this town." This declaration somewhat as- 
tonished us. We expostulated with him on the im- 
propriety and injustice of the act, adding that if they 
took it upon themselves to imprison us and inflict per- 
sonal violence without any just cause, we should be un- 
der the necessity of writing to the British Commodore 
then lying at Callao for his protection, who w T ould imme- 
diately come to our assistance and release usand demand 
redress for our detention and imprisonment. He added 
that there would be no necessity for that, as the gover- 
nor did not intend to injure us, but merely meant to con- 
fine us to satisfy our captain who had made application 
to him to that effect. He then advised us to submit to 
our temporary confinement for two or three days, pledg- 
ing his word and honor that no violence should be done 
to our persons, and that he would see that we were lib- 
erated as soon as the ship sailed out of the port, and that 
after our liberation he would give us passage to Guaya- 
quil where we could easily obtain a ship to sail in. 

Seeing that there was no alternative, we reluctantly 
submitted to our fate, cherishing a hope that our unjust 
imprisonment would finally result to our future advantage. 
Accordingly we w r ere imprisoned. We remained there 
a week during which time we suffered intolerably with 
thirst. This was occasioned by the scarcity of water in 
this town, there being neither well, spring nor fountain 
in it. The inhabitants were under the necessity of bring- 
ing their water on mules from the river Colong, which 
is nine miles from the town of Payta. As w T e were not 
allowed any thing by the town to sustain nature, we were 
under the necessity of purchasing our water and provis- 
ion from the Spanish Indians, who took every advantage 
of us ; and as we had no money with which to purchase 
the necessaries of life, we were compelled by actual ne- 



174 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

cessity to part with the best of our sea clothes, the only 
decent wearing apparel we possessed. 

The captain of the port honorably fulfilled bis word 
by liberating us from the loathsome and filthy prison as 
soon as the ship had got under way. 

I was now left destitute of all necessaries of life, in a 
strange land, whose barren surface and scorching sands, 
bore a strong resemblance to the deserts of Arabia. We 
had no prospect of obtaining employment by which we 
might gain a subsistence, as there was no business of any 
kind carried on in the place. We were in a suffering 
condition, but still it was not to be deplored as we had 
acted under the influence of high and honorable feelings. 
1 had sacrificed $400 of my hard earnings, which was 
my just due, the value of my share of oil on board of 
the ship. 

The captain, who was ihe sole cause of our sufferings 
and sacrifices, put over $3,000 of our hard earnings into 
the owner's pocket by compelling us to leave the ship 
contrary to the law of God, which requires us to do un- 
to others as we wish to be done by. This evil practice 
is extensively, wickedly and designedly carried on by 
wicked men in all parts of the world. We remained af- 
ter getting out of jail in Payta two weeks, during which 
time, through necessity, we were compelled to satisfy 
the cravings of hunger with one meal of boiled rice per 
day. Our bed consisted of the bare ground, which is 
the only floor that houses have in that town. At the 
expiration of two weeks an American ship arrived, in 
which by the intercession of the captain of the port, we 
obtained a passage to the city of Guayaquil. 

On my arrival at Guayaquil I shipped on board of a 
sloop belonging to an English merchant, who resided 
there. I stayed in her three months and then shipped 
on board of the ship Louiza, a troop ship. 

Previously to our sailing from this port, while on shore 
one evening watching for our captain, I came near losing 
my life by the ruthless hand of a Bolivian dragoon, who 
furiously attacked me, sword in hand, while standing on 
the bank of the river watching the boat. The villain 
acccompamed his desperate pass by the demand : " Sa- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 175 

calaplata englas o tamatoF 9 take out your silver, En- 
glishman, or I will kill you. This was his meaning, but 
in this he was soon brought to realize his mistake. I had 
been taught the science of the sword and the stick in my 
youth, while on board of H. M. ship, which in many in- 
stances of self-defence, subsequently I found to be use- 
ful, and particularly so in this case. It had been an es- 
tablished custom of mine since T had become acquainted 
with the malicious and treacherous disposition of the 
Spaniards and the strong hatred which they usually in- 
dulge against the English, to provide myself with some 
weapon of defence, having been unjustly assaulted by 
them on several occasions. On this I had the precau- 
tion of providing myself with the boats' tiller with which 
I carried off his pass and quickly struck him on his arm 
two blows, by which he was compelled to drop his mur- 
derous weapon. This was all done in a moment. But 
what greatly contributed lo my success was the intimi- 
dation with which he was struck at the time he made his 
pass at me by my responding to him in plain Spanish : 
il Picaro que staosta haciendo go led are parte al Leber- 
tador de sto" The meaning of this, is: rogue, what 
are you doing? I will inform the liberator of this. This 
undoubtedly had an influence to relax the power of his 
pass, as he did not expect that I could talk the Spanish 
language, I had but just possessed myself of his wea- 
pon, when he, rinding himself defeated, called some per- 
son by name, and immediately another man stood before 
me, sword in hand and demanded the sword from me 
without hesitation. This I refused to do unless they 
would consent to accompany me to the American house. 
To this proposition they readily complied and we imme- 
diately proceeded to the house which was 100 yards 
from us. On our arrival there I left the sword in the 
hands of the landlord, with the instruction to deliver it up 
to him in the morning, provided he would promise that 
the like should not occur again. Here I met with the 
boat's crew, who had been indulging themselves with a 
glass of wine. With them I returned to the boat and soon 
after the arrival of the captain, we returned to the ship. 
This city about this time was in a state of excitement, 



176 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

caused by the daily arrival of the Colombian troops from 
the city of Quito, which were pouring in, in great num- 
bers. The city squares and broad streets were continu- 
ally thronged with drilling troops, both on horses and 
foot, and there was scarcely any thing to be heard for a 
few days, but the clashing of swords, the report of fire- 
arms, and the heavy trampling of the furious war-horse, 
accompanied by the reverberating sound of the war 
horns. 

As soon as the troops were embarked, the expedition 
sailed with 6,000 men for Upper Peru, to vanquish the 
Spanish army, then commanded by the intrepid and in- 
vincible general, Cantarel. 

The city of Guayaquil is situated on an extensive plain, 
the most of which is covered with woods. The city 
occupies its position by the side of the river, which ex- 
tends forty miles from the city to the island of Puna, 
which is situated at its entrance ; at the north, it unites 
a branch of the Amazon, by the cities of Cuenca and 
Quito. On the east side of the river the land is level, 
and covered with wood as far as the Cordilleras. The 
several branches of the river, above the city, are navi- 
gable only by large canoes and balsas which bring down 
these branches the produce of the interior. The city 
probably contained 6,000 inhabitants ; it did not exceed 
this number at that time. From the city, at a distance 
of 12 leagues, your eye is met by the majestic view of 
Mount Chimborazo, which is the highest of all the An- 
des, and rises 21,000 feet above the level of the sea. 

As soon as the expedition arrived in Arica, the army 
was landed without opposition, and immediately com- 
menced their march for the cities of Cuzco and La Paz, 
which are the two principal cities in Upper Peru. 

The two belligerent armies soon came within sight of 
each other. At first the royal army retreated, inland, 
in two divisions. This compelled the Colombians to 
separate their force into two divisions, pursuing them 
With full confidence of conquering. The royalists con- 
tinued their retreat until they succeeded in drawing the 
Colombian divisions at such a distance from each other 
as totally to prevent the junction of their forces, when 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 177 

attacked by them. They succeeded in their plans, at- 
tacked the divisions of the enemy singly and completely 
gained a victory over them. 

The survivors of the defeated army were driven fu- 
riously back into Arica, and precipitately into the ships 
which sailed for Callao with a Cew hundreds of the re- 
maining; army, to tell the sad tale of their defeat. Be- 
side these, there were 300 horsemen, under the com- 
mand of General Miller, that escaped. The loss was 
estimated at between 4 and 5 thousand men. The 
failure of this army gave the royalists, as the fiuits of 
their victory, the possession of Lower Peru, as far as 
Lima, which they took ; and they obliged the citizens 
to ransom it, by paying $600,000. 

On our arrival at Callao, being displeased with the 
customs and proceedings of the Colombian troop-ship, I 
left as the time for which I agreed had expired. 

I then shipped on board of the Perseverance, an En- 
glish schooner, commanded and owned by captain Mos- 
by. In her I sailed for Panama, at which place we ar- 
rived, and took in part of her cargo of Havana leaf-to- 
bacco and other goods, which were intended to be smug- 
gled on the coast. We sailed for Peru, and in a few 
weeks arrived at the port of the city of Truxillo, which 
is denominated Guanchaco. We arrived late in the af- 
ternoon, and as our captain had business of great im- 
portance to transact, he immediately went on shore in 
one of the landing boats. 

There were several vessels then lying in port, among 
which was the brig Nancy, a Peruvian brig-of-war, which 
had arrived there from Callao, with the Peruvian Con- 
gress on board, that had been under the necessity of 
leaving the capital, in consequence of the near approach 
of the royal army. Having made the vessel safe, all" 
hands were sent to supper, while the mate kept the 
lookout on deck; the evening was very dark ; no 
moving object could be distinguished or heard around 
us, but the rolling waves, the constant motion of the 
vessel and the roaring of the surf, which was breaking 
along the shore ; when all at once, we were all alarmed 
by the mate's hailing a boat, which was close at the 
23 



178 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

vessel's side. The hailing of the mate was succeeded 
by the striking of a boat against the side of the vessel, 
and the noise of jumping on the deck, which indicated 
that the vessel was boarded for some unlawful purpose. 
In a moment after, several muskets were pointed and 
fired down the forecastle. The shot we fortunately 
avoided by retreating into the vessel's side. The pi- 
rates now commanded us, with horrible imprecations, in 
the Spanish language, to come up instantly or they 
would take our lives. We immediately obeyed the 
mandate and went on deck; and immediately ascertain- 
ed that we had been boarded by 40 men, of all colors. 
They were part of the Peruvian crew of brig Nancy, 
which laid at no great distance from us. 

It afterwards appeared that the crew had taken the 
vessel from the officers, and part of them, who knew our 
vessel to be a fast sailer, conceived the idea of taking 
her to the island of Chiloe, to obtain a Spanish commis- 
sion and fit her out as a Spanish privateer, and thus 
make their fortunes by taking prizes along the coast. 

As soon as we had ascended the deck, we were put 
under the care of a strong guard, while the rest of the 
ruffians were earnestly engaged in pillaging the vessel of 
every thing that they could conveniently carry off. 
Several of them went down into the cabin, broke open 
several boxes of silk stockings and of other valuable ar- 
ticles. They took the clothes of the captain, super- 
cargo and mate, and lady Mosby's gold watch ; these 
they divided among them. Lady Mosby was shame- 
fully and indecently treated by the ruffians, who un- 
dressed before her and dressed in her husband's best 
clothes ; and not satisfied with this, a colored fellow at- 
tempted to dishonor her virtue. This gross insult she 
indignantly resented, and declared he could accomplish 
his base purpose only by depriving her of existence. 

The pirates having divided their booty, got into their 
boat and returned to their vessel, excepting 14 of them, 
who kept possession [of our vessel, got her under 
way and steered her out of port. Having got at a con- 
siderable distance from the harbor, they hoisted out a 
small boat, about ten feet long, and in her they put sev- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 179 

en of us, including the captain's lady and thrust us from 
the vessel, to the mercy of the waves, without anything 
to row with to a place of safety. 

We were now in a perilous situation, placed as we 
were in a very small boat, in which we could scarcely 
move for fear of upsetting her, at a distance of 4 or 5 
miles from any vessel, on a heavy, rolling' sea ; en- 
veloped in the midst of a dark, gloomy, foggy night, and 
which refused us even the least glimmering of a star to 
guide us to a place of safety. Being thus deplorably 
situated we tore up the few bottom boards, belonging 
to the boat, and used them as paddles to propel the boat 
into the harbor. At sunrise, after having toiled inces- 
santly and passed a very unpleasant night, we arrived 
along side of an English vessel, which was lying there at 
anchor. By these pirates I lost 200 dollars and my 
clothes. The brig Nancy put to sea also, and was af- 
terwards taken by the Congress, a Peruvian brig-of-war. 

Captain Mosby, on his arrival on board the English 
vessel in which we were, in search of his wife, appear- 
ed to be highly excited in consequence of the loss of his 
vessel, and the abuse which his lady had received at 
the hands of the ruffians. 

It was the intention of the pirates to put us to 
death, but by the interposition of our second mate, who 
was a Swede, and who for the preservation of his life, 
consented to navigate the vessel, we were spared. 

After this I took a passage to Guayaquil, to obtain a 
vessel for the weather coast, but did not succeed on my 
first arrival there, in consequence of which I had the 
privilege granted me from the captain of making the 
vessel my home, until I could succeed in obtaining a 
voyage. 

Two or three weeks had elapsed, since the capture of 
our vessel by the pirates, and no tidings was had 
of her from any quarter, until one day, quite unex- 
pected, the captain of the vessel brought the news on 
board, of the capture of the pirates, by a guard of sol- 
diers, from Guayaquil, headed by the captain of the port. 
This news was soon verified by the arrival of the schooner 
Perseverance into the port, She was found off Dead 



180 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

Men's Island, a short distance from the mouth of Guay- 
aquil river. 

According to the relation of the second mate, the pi- 
rates, after putting the vessel to sea, steered for Chiloe, 
but on examination of the quantity of water on board, 
ascertained that it was insufficient to carry the vessel 
into that port. 

This disappointment gave rise to a variety of opinions 
as to the best mode of operation for their future safety ; 
and knowing that they could not succeed in obtaining 
water in any port on the coast, without being detected, 
they came to the conclusion, by the advice of the second 
mate, to take the vessel near the mouth of Guayaquil 
river, take the most valuable articles into the boat, and 
scuttle the vessel. Having put this plan into operation, 
and gained the desired spot, they scuttled the vessel, and 
proceeded in the boat up Guayaquil river, and landed in 
the thicket at a short distance below the fort. The sec- 
ond mate by these means obtained an opportunity to stray 
away from the pirates in the midst of the thicket, and 
in a short time arrived in the city, and gave information 
to the captain of the port, by whose orders they were 
taken and brought prisoners into the city ; and after a 
short trial they were condemned to be shot on board of 
the vessel, and hung to her yard arms, which sentence 
was speedily carried into effect. 

After the arrival of Capt. Mosby from Lima, and the 
execution of the pirates, I again shipped on board the 
vessel, which had been brought in safely, and sailed 
in her for Callao. 

After our arrival at Callao, having remained there 
several weeks, we took in more cargo for the weather 
coast, and sailed on a smuggling voyage, which we 
continued six months, during which time we were expos- 
ed to a multiplicity of dangers, by night and day, which 
arose from the nature of the voyage. On our arrival at 
Callao from the weather coast, we found the castles in 
possession of the Spaniards, who in consequence of the 
late victories had got possession of the coast as far as 
Lima, and who, at the time of our departure, w 7 ere near 
Lima with an army 3,000 strong. After discharging 



OF THOMAS W. S31ITH. 181 

our cargo the crew left the vessel, and I, suffering my- 
self to be over-ruled by them, left her also, to my sor- 
row. 

I went on shore in a strange place, and among stran- 
gers, from whence 1 was under the necessity of going to 
the city of Lima to receive my wages. I left that place 
for Callao on the following day, after having taken a view 
of the city. The capture of Lima and Callao by the 
Spaniards, was succeeded by a depression of business, in 
consequence of which it was difficult to obtain a ship, and 
I was under the necessity of residing on shore, until I 
was favored with an opportunity of shipping. \\ bile on 
shore the Peruvian squadron arrived in the bay, and all 
communication with foreign ships was cut off. 

The Spanish general, Rodril, anticipating their design, 
made suitable preparation for their reception, by filling 
the vessels with soldiers every night, to prevent their 
being boarded by the enemy, whose intention was to 
take them or set them on fire. 

One night the enemy's boats to the number of twenty 
appeared in sight of the Spanish guard-boats. The 
alaim was immediately given, and many of the citizens 
of Callao assembled on the sea border to witness the 
engagement which was expected soon to commence. — 
Just at this time, when all was in a bustle, the captain 
of the port, with a strong guard of soldiers, commenced 
pressing all the native stragglers and foreign sailors that 
he could find in the town, and I unfortunately was taken 
among the rest, and conveyed to the brig of war Pasu- 
alla, to work her great guns during the action. This was 
harsh treatment, received at the hands of those who, ac- 
cording to the law of nations, had no right to force us 
into their service to fight the battles of their country ; 
but it was done in the middle of the night, in the midst 
of confusion, and no notice was taken of it. 

We had not been on board many minutes, before the 
shipping commenced firing on the castles, in order that 
their armed boats and gun-boats might escape notice, 
and thus afford them an opportunity to shun the fire of 
the castles and get in among the shipping, where they 
would be protected by the ships ) but in this they were 



162 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

deceived. General Rodril was too old a warrior to be 
deceived in this manner. Instead of returning the ships' 
fire, he took no notice of it, but reserved his fire for the 
boats, on whom he opened a dreadful fire, but in conse- 
quence of the distance and the dimness of the night, the 
firing did not take effect, and the enemy's boats finally- 
succeeded in gaining the shelter of the shipping. The 
battle was now commenced with mighty fury by the gun 
boats of both parties, and long and loud did the fierce 
cannon roar, while repeated volleys of musketry alter- 
nately succeeded each other. Finally the enemy suc- 
ceeded in driving the Spanish gun-boats from their posi- 
tion farther in toward the shore, and in consequence of 
this movement, our vessel, being the very one they most 
desired to cut to pieces, was furiously attacked by four 
gun- boats and several other boats ; but after a long and 
obstinate conflict, they were repulsed. After three hours 
of hard fighting the enemy retreated with great loss of 
life, and without a single prize. 

The bloody conflict being over, and daylight having 
appeared, we were liberated from the vessel, without 
even a " thank you," for having exposed our lives for 
their protection. 

This repulse gave a sudden check to the operations of 
the Peruvian squadron in Callao, and they sailed for the 
lee coast a few days after the battle. 

The Spaniards now commenced fitting out several 
vessels of war, among which was a brig denominated the 
Constant, which was fitted out as a privateer, and a great 
bounty offered to obtain a crew for her. She was con- 
sidered by the foreign sailors to be a suitable vessel to 
ship in, as in all probability she would take a great many 
prizes, which would result in the prosperity of the crew. 
A number of English sailors immediately entered on 
board of her for six months, and among them were sev- 
eral of my ship-mates, who over-ruled my judgment, and 
enticed me to enter also. 

The vessel being ready we received our bounty, and 
sailed for the weather coast on a cruise, in which we 
spent five months, during which time we took three rich 
prizes, which arrived safely at Callao, and which would 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 183 

have rewarded each man with $3,000, had we received 
our just dues. After this we returned to Callao and nar- 
rowly escaped being taken, as we run into the harbor by 
a Peruvian frigate which had returned during our ab- 
sence. Several shots were exchanged between us and 
the frigate, but without effect. 

Admiral Guise was so exasperated at our escape that 
he followed us under the batteries and fired several broad- 
sides at the castles and shipping. 

After this we remained in Callao refitting and await- 
ing the arrival of the Spanish 64 and a large sloop-of- 
war brig which had arrived in Chiloe from Spain and 
was daily expected to arrive at Callao. After the lapse 
of a week the vessels arrived. A week subsequent to 
the arrival of these vessels Admiral Guise,who had been 
under the necessity of leaving the harbor, in consequence 
of fear of being attacked by them, now arrived off St. 
Lorenzo, was reinforced by five smaller vessels, with an 
intention of attacking the Spanish squadron which was 
then only waiting for the 64 to refit and recruit her crew 
after her long passage from Spain. 

The squadron at length being ready, got under 
way one calm and foggy night, with a special design 
to bring the enemy to an action within the bay of Callao, 
which if it had been accomplished, must have resulted 
in the complete capture of the Peruvian squadron. But 
their squadron being to an anchor with all there sails up, 
seemingly in readiness to escape, and the fog clearing 
away at sunrise, the Spanish squadron was exposed to 
view of the enemy, who finding themselves upon the 
eve of being attacked in the bay, immediately slipped 
their cables and put to sea, but were closely pursued by 
the Spaniards arrayed in line of battle. We were now 
without the bay, the enemy still continued in line of bat- 
tle, half a mile distant on our lee bow, and not a gun 
had as yet been fired by either party. The fog which 
by its clearing away in the bay had been the means of 
the enemy's escape was so dense out of the bay that it 
was impossible to discern a vessel at a distance of 100 
yards. The enemy thinking to surprise us, took the ad- 
vantage of the density of the fog and put about, expec- 



184 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

ting by this means to gain some advantage over our small 
vessels, but in this they were disappointed, being discov- 
ered in time,their designs were prevented. Several tre- 
mendous broadsides were exchanged in a kw minutes as 
they passed within hail under our lee. Our squadron 
soon went about in pursuit of the enemy which was 
then standing in shore. As soon as we went about they 
bore away. In about an hour after this the sun shone 
forth in its full vigor which completely dissipated the fog, 
by which for some time the enemy had been hid from our 
view. They were now seen lying to, about a mile to 
the leeward of us. We immediately bore away for them, 
who waited for us until we came within grape shot of 
each other. The battle now commenced by the two 
larger sh'p3 in great fury. In a short time the enemy's 
line was broken, after which they bore away w r ith the 
loss of the frigate's mizzen-mast. They were closely 
pursued by us the whole of the day, during which a con- 
tinual firing was kept up on both sides. The frigate suf- 
fered considerable from our fire, having been several 
times raked by our brig,which occasionally came up near 
to her and discharged the long 24 pounder into her stern, 
which carried destruction and confusion before it. Hav- 
ing failed to bring the enemy to a decisive action, we 
returned to Callao to repair damages. Here I left the 
brig, my time having expired. J resided on shore sever- 
al weeks not being able to obtain a ship. 

During my residence on shore two battles were fought 
by the Spaniards and Patriots, as they were called, near 
the walls and in the city of Lima, in both of which the 
latter were severely defeated by half their number. The 
second of these battles, which was conducted by Gener- 
al Rodril, in person, I had the opportunity of witnessing 
from the first onset to the last of the disastrous retreat of 
the defeated, who were closely pursued through the 
streets of Lima and slaughtered without mercy. This 
battle commenced near the halfway house from Lima to 
Callao. Opposite to this house is a large hill which bears 
a small observatory on its summit. At the base of this 
hill the Spanish army which had retreated from Lima, 
were concealed awaiting the approach of the enemy, who 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 185 

were marching triumphantly through the city of Lima 
toward Callao. Near this hill the progress of the ene- 
my was arrested by the first onset of the Spanish troops. 
Both parties of foot were fully engaged when General 
Rodril mounted the half-way house with a spy glass in 
his hand, from which he had a commanding view of the 
field of battle. Having anticipated from the advantageous 
position of his troops the speedy retreat of the enemy, 
he immediately detached two companies of hussars to 
cut off their retreat to the nearest gate of the city. Soon 
after this movement, the enemy's body gave way before 
a heavy discharge of the artillery, and at the same time 
their wings were turned, and before they could recover, 
a general charge of the infantry completely routed the 
whole army, which being now in full retreat, an attempt 
was made by the cavalry to cover the retreat of the in- 
fantry into the Chorillos gate of the city, but being una- 
ble to resist the impetuosity of the Spanish horsemen 
and the discharge of the flying artillery they gave way 
and mixed in with the infantry in their retreat. A gen- 
eral slaughter now ensued by which over 600 lifeless bo- 
dies were scattered across the pampas which surrounded 
Lima. The survivers were pursued to the neighboring 
mountains with slaughter and desolation in their track. 

The trophies of the battle were brought into the cas- 
tles of Callao, and consisted of 1000 stand of arms, 100 
prisoners and 300 horses. 

A few days subsequent to the battle I shipped on board 
of the brig Robert of London, and sailed in her to the 
Chorillos, at which port we stopped during the contin- 
uation of the siege of Callao, which was 17 months, 
and after the capitulation of the besieged castles we re- 
turned to Callao. 

The besieged fortifications of Callao were the last of 
the Spanish possessions in Peru that were conquered by 
the Patriots. The extraordinary obstinacy and intrepid- 
ity with which the besieged General Rodril, defended 
the fortifications to the last moment, together with his 
honorable capitulation, has no parallel in the history of 
warfare. From this conflict the republics of South 
America have arisen. Rodril was highly worthy of the 
24 



186 LIFE AND TKAYEL3 

trust conferred on him, and the honor which his coun- 
try bestowed upon him at his return to his native land. 
He was besieged by 6,000 men who were intrenched 
within hail of the castles and who were provided with 
several strong batteries erected at Villa Vista. Beside 
this he was besieged by ten ships of war. To oppose 
this force he had 1,500 men, and yet his enemies with 
all the odds and advantage which they possessed were 
unable to subdue him by force of arms. So great were 
the distresses and sufferings of the besieged, in conse- 
quence of the deficiency of food and water, that they 
were compelled to subsist on their horses as long as they 
lasted, and toward the latter part of it they drank spirits 
to quench their burning thirst. Hundreds of them paid 
the last debt of nature and their bodies were consigned 
by their comrades to the gloomy vaults of the dead. It 
was frequently the case that the soldiers took their pil- 
lows and walked into the silent vault and there laid down 
to sleep the sleep of death. I saw many lying in the 
vaults in this position after the capitulation of the castles. 
Eleven hundred out of the 1,500 which were first be- 
sieged were consigned to their mother dust, during the 
continuance of the siege. 

Lima is an extensive city, built upon a plain at the 
foot of a mountain and it is situated seven miles from 
the port of Callao. It exhibits a beautiful prospect to 
those on ship-board in the harbor. Its many towering 
steeples from which the bright rays of the sun are re- 
flected, adds grandeur to the beauty of the scene. The 
streets of this city are wide and long and the houses in 
general are large and airy. There is a small river run- 
ning through one side of the city, which flows from moun- 
tains covered with snow and ice, by the melting of which 
it is continually fed. From this river there are three 
small streamSjWhich are connected through the centre of 
three different streets. Its population previous to the 
wars of their revolution was estimated at 70,000, but in 
1324 it was reduced to 30,000. 

Having now been five years from my native land, and 
having a desire to return, I shipped on board of the brig 
Junius, bound to Liverpool. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 187 

We sailed from Callao for Arica where we took in 
twelve tons of silver and then sailed for Liverpool, at 
which place we arrived in safety after a narrow escape 
of being lost at sea. The brig broached to while run- 
ning under close-reefed top-sails, and came near going 
down stern foremost. 

Four days after my arrival in Liverpool I was taken 
down with a severe fever by which 1 came near the 
grave. While in the hight of my fever, I was robbed of 
£70, all that remained of my five years and a half labor. 
The money was deposited by my physician with my land- 
lord^ religious old man and he deposited it in a bureau draw 
in the room in which I laid. The robbery was commit- 
ted by a young man who came home in the vessel with me, 
to whose necessity I had bountifully administered since we 
had been on shore, he being penniless and destitute. He 
decoyed my landlord's eldest son as his accomplice in the 
crime. The rogue was soon discovered by the lady of 
the house who had free access to my money to provide 
such things for me as the physician directed. She im- 
mediately sent an officer in pursuit, who in the course 
of two hours succeeded in apprehending my ship-mate, 
who gave information of his accomplice. He was pur- 
sued but without success, having made his escape to 
London, and there being no measures taken for his pur- 
suit he escaped the hand of justice. Out of the $350 
which w r as taken $50 was recovered by the detection of 
my ship-mate which I did not receive until subsequent 
to his trial and conviction, and with half of this sum I 
rewarded the physician for his attendance on me. 

On my recovery, in the hight of my distress, I wrote 
to my landlady in Loudon, to whom previous to my 
leaving England I had given power to draw my voyage, 
which was pending in the court of chancery, in hopes 
of receiving a satisfactory answer relative to the w r ages 
of a former voyage. But instead of answering me to 
the purpose, she advised me not to come home as the 
times were hard, and added that they all wished to see 
me very much. There was something peculiar in this 
answer which led me to suspect that she had received the 
remains of my voyage and appropriated it to her own use. 



188 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

I immediately proceeded to London and on my arrival 
at the old lady's house my suspicion was fully confirmed 
by the acknowledgemeut which she made to me of the 
payment of $450 which was the balance she had re- 
ceived of my voyage. What her intentions were in wri- 
ting to me thus 1 leave the reader to judge. 

On my arrival in England I flattered myself with the 
idea of staying in my native land, at least one year, and 
apply myself to the improvement of my mind, but in- 
stead of this my hopes and designs were frustrated, by 
being unfortunately deprived of my earnings by dishon- 
est and wicked men, in consequence of which I was re- 
luctantly hurried, through necessity, once more on a 
whaling voyage. 

Being under the necessity of continuing my sea-faring 
life, which I ever detested, I shipped on board of the 
Hibernia, bound on a whaling voyage on the coast of 
Japan. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 189 



CHAPTER XV. 



Leaves London ; arrival at New Zealand, and description of the 
natives ; Cannibalism of the New Zealanders ; cruises off the 
Navigator isles; description of the natives • description of the 
Duke of Clarence and York's isles ; two races of the natives ; 
trading with the natives ; cruises off the King's Mill Group- crui- 
ses off Mathew's isle ; warlike and hideous appearance of the 
natives ; design to take the ship ; cruise off the New Hebrides ; 
appearance of Santa Cruz ; lands on a volcanic isle ; cruises off 
Solomon's He • dangerous attack on a canoe ; loss of life ; ten 
war canoes come off to attack the ship ; raises a school of whales; 
the Alfred's boats and ours are attacked by two fleets of canoes ; 
loss of her captain and second mate ; the natives repulsed by our 
boats and two boats stove ; the author stands on the whale's 
head ; the whale takes the author's boat off while the crew are 
in the water hanging on to her ; cruises off Isabel isle ; attempt 
of the natives to take the John Bull ; discovery of a deep bay ■ 
the ship is attacked by two or three thousand natives ■ defence 
of the ship and slaughter of the natives ; arrival at Guana isle ; 
description of the natives and manner of living ; sails by the 
Ladrone isles • Volcano ; arrives at Japan ■ cruises along the 
coast ; visited by Japanese fishing boats , boarded by Japanese 
junks ; departure from the Japan seas ; a Lascar escapes from 
the natives and gains the ship ; the loss of his vessel and his 
captivity ; the crew eaten by the natives ; mode of roasting their 
victims ; arrives at the New Hebrides ; the natives sieze two of 
the ship's crew ; departure of the ship and the loss of two men ; 
colored men with yellow hair ; discovery of the island where the 
French ship L'Empereur was wrecked ; arrival at the isle of 
Rotemah ; description of the natives ; three men desert the ship 
and remain on the island ; arrival at New Zealand ; war of two 
powerful tribes ; war dances and temporary peace ; invasion and 
landing o( the Whorowrorians with their war eanoes ; prepara- 
tions for defence by the Kivakivians ; battle of Crorica ; landing 
of the missionaries in the midst of the battle j their exposure, 



190 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

interposition, and fearless resolution to appease the natives ; 
defeat of the Whorowrorians ; landing of the author ; departure 
of the Kivakivians and burning of their town ; the Wftorowrori- 
ans reinforce their tribe; again invade the Kivakivians with 100 
war canoes carrying 1,500 men ; their war dances on approach- 
ing each other ; the Whorowrorians are dismayed and dare not 
attack them ; interposition of the missionaries and sea eaptains. 



TWELFTH VOYAGE. 

The ship being ready, we sailed on our passage round 
the cape of Good Hope to New Zealand, where we ar- 
rived after having enjoyed a pleasant passage. On our 
arrival in the harbor of Crorica, the deck of our ship was 
crowded with natives of all ages from the shore, who 
came to trade with us. 

When 1 first beheld these natives, my attention was 
much attracted by their fierce and rude appearance, their 
large, brawny, rugged and naked forms, exposed to the 
inclemency of the weather, strangely contrasted with 
European manners. Shortly after, being totally unac- 
quainted with their customs, while on shore, I was great- 
ly alarmed by several natives, with fire-arms and war- 
clubs in their hands, who came running toward me. 
They run vehemently to the very spot where I stood, 
and instantly formed, two deep, and commenced a terrific 
war-dance, accompanied by the most hideous and stun- 
ning yells that was ever heard, by any civilized being. 
Their yells echoed from hill to hill, around the bay, and 
were accompanied by throwing up their fire-arms and 
war-clubs into the air as a demonstration of oreat joy at 
the arrival and binding of the Queen from Cavacaway 
river. This old Queen, whom they delighted to honor, 
was the widow of a celebrated chief, who was by the 
English denominated King George. He had been 
treacherously killed a few days previous to our arrival 
in Sookyanna, while in the act of making peace with the 
tribe belonging to that place. His death was much re- 
gretted, and lamented by his numerous friends and 
the tribes in the bay of islands ; and particularly by the 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 191 

English, as he afforded them protection from native vio- 
lence. This was owing to the progress which civiliza- 
tion had made in his mind, during his residence in the 
city of Sidney, New South Wales. 

While we were lying at Crorica, a circumstance occur- 
red among the natives, which goes to illustrate the fe- 
rocity and cannibalism of the New Zealanders. An in- 
ferior chief had recaptured a female slave, who had run 
away several times ; and according to the severity of 
their peculiar laws, she was suspended by her master 
from a tree and shot by him. And then, by the custom 
of the New Zealanders, she was roasted and prepared 
as a delicious repast for the tribes to feast on. This is 
also done to inflict a greater degree of punishment on 
the victim than death, and to convey terror to their en- 
emies. 

Having abundantly supplied the ship w T ith wood, w r a- 
ter and potatoes, and thirty hogs, for which we gave 
some muskets and gunpowder, we sailed toward Ton- 
gataboo island, off which we cruised three days ; but 
not meeting with any whales, we bore away and sailed 
through the midst of Tonga islands, which are very low 
and scarcely to be seen above the level of the sea ; from 
the vessel's mast-head at a distance of 10 miles. We 
were informed by our captain, that the natives of these 
isles were in the most barbarous state of cannibalism ; 
and therefore their shores were to be approached only 
on the peril of being roasted and immediately eaten. 

Having passed by these islands, we soon arrived at the 
Navigators, off which we cruised several weeks, with- 
out meeting with any success. While cruising off these 
islands we were visited by a number of natives, who 
came off in their canoes, with all kinds of the choisest 
fruits to trade with us. They were handsome, and pro- 
portionably formed in every respect. Their bodies were 
richly decorated with the handsomest tattoo that my 
eyes ever beheld, while their hair grew straight upwards, 
caused by the continual practice of combing it up. The 
sun of civilization had just commenced its dawn among 
them, and by recent information, there is reason to be- 
lieve that they have bee" n?<mfo jmnroved, both in man- 



192 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

ners and morals, since that day. Missionaries are now 
among them. 

Having unsuccessfully cruised off these islands, we 
proceeded toward the King's Mill Group, and touched 
at the Duke of Clarence, and the Duke of York's isl- 
ands, on our passsage, merely to trade with the natives. 
The first of these islands was a small sandy bank, about 
a mile in circumference, surrounded by coral reefs. It 
was covered with cocoa-nut trees, and was scarcely above 
the level of the sea. 

We were surprised when we first beheld it, and were 
at a loss to know how so many human beings could ob- 
tain a subsistence on a mere sandy spot, and especially 
as it appeared to be lonely in the midst of the mighty 
deep. But subsequently, we became fully acquaitned 
with their means of subsistence, which consisted of cocoa- 
nuts and shell-fish ; the latter they obtained from the 
coral reefs. 

As soon as the ships approached the island sufficient- 
ly near, a number of large canoes, filled with natives, 
came close to her and exhibited a white cloth as a sig- 
nal of peace, and desired to trade with us. We ex- 
hibited a similar signal, and made signs of friendship to 
them. They immediately came along side and on board 
of the ship. Having gained admittance to the ship, 
they according to their custom, — to confirm the friend- 
ship which had been manifested by signs — insisted on 
touching noses with each member of the crew. To 
confirm our sincerity, gratify their desires, and appease 
their fears, we readily agreed to this, and accordingly 
went through the ceremony of touching noses with the 
natives. 

The chief article of trade which we possessed was 
iron-hoops, cut in six-inch pieces, for each of which, we 
generally obtained in many of the islands a dozen of co- 
coa-nuts or any other kinds of nuts or fruit. 

When we first beheld these natives, we were surprised 
to discover two races of men among them. The 
Malay or Asiatic race, which inhabit all the Asiatic 
isles, and another race of men which much resemble the 
Spaniards. Their complexion was nearly while : thei r 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 193 

hair which was light and long, was inclined to curl. 
They were much larger in stature than the Malay race, 
and wore long beards, while the others exhibited no 
signs of this outward distinction of man. 

There is no doubt but this race of white men had 
their origin in these islands from ship-wrecked Europe- 
ans. And what goes to confirm this supposition, is the 
fact that this mixed race is totally confined to these 
islands ; for among all the range's of the Asiatic islands 
and the many thousands of natives seen, we have not 
been able to trace the least resemblance to this class. 

Having finished our trading at these islands we pro- 
ceeded on our passage, and in a few days arrived at 
Kings' Mill Group, off which we cruised several weeks 
and succeeded in obtaining 300 barrels of oil. 

After the expiration of the season at these islands, 
we proceeded to Matthews island, off which we cruised 
several days. The natives appeared to be frequently 
enframed in war with each other, as thev exhibited marks 
of great violence upon their naked bodies, inflicted by 
implements of war, which could be none others than 
those with which they were abundantly supplied, and 
which consisted of straight hard-wood spears, with four 
rows of sharks' teeth firmly fixed in the same shape as the 
teeth of a saw. 

One morning, the ship being becalmed, we were sur- 
rounded by 3 or 400 canoes, each of which contained 
five natives. A number of them traded with us, while 
the others rowed round and round the ship apparently 
looking at us, as though they would make us their 
prize. By their singular proceedings we anticipated 
that they had a design on the ship. To defeat them 
we immediately exhibited our naked lances and spades, 
and this seemingly had the desired effect in coun- 
teracting their designs, and shortly after they dispersed 
and returned to the shore. 

These natives exhibited the most hideous heads of 

hair ever seen on human beings. It was long and woolly 

and grew upwards ; and apparently, by being constantly 

combed in a circular form, it had become in the shape 

25 



194 LIFE AND TRATELS 

of a bee-hive and was nearly as large as a half bushel 
measure. 

Having unsuccessfully cruised among these islands, 
we proceeded to the Mulgraves, Culverts, Browns, and 
Rangers, off which we met with no better success. 

From this we proceeded to the New Hebrides, at 
which we arrived and cruised off Santa Cruz, which is 
the largest, it being 15 miles long. The island, from 
one end to the other, is a long mountain, covered with 
bushes and trees. It contains several valleys, which 
widen as they descend from the summit of the ridge. 
These valleys are occupied by several distinct tribes, 
which occasionally are at war with each other. This 
appeared to be the case with two of these tribes, at the 
time of our cruising there. We were eye-witnesses to 
an engagement which took place between two fleets of 
canoes, close to our ship. This happened immediately 
after we had finished trading with the natives of one of 
the valleys, who had come off to us in 15 canoes. We 
had been observing their motions while the officers were 
trading with them ; and we perceived that some of them 
were continually on the lookout toward the shore, when 
all at once they precipitated themselves from the ship 
into their boats and paddled quickly for the shore ; 
and on looking to ascertain the cause of their hasty de- 
parture, we discovered a fleet of canoes, coming off 
from the other valley. The two parties engaged as they 
passed by each other. A number of arrows were sprung 
from their bows, without effect for a short time, and 
then they proceeded on their way to the shore. 

At the distance of 16 miles from this island is a vol- 
canic island, about 4 miles in circumference, rising to the 
bight of 1,500 feet above the level of the sea. We 
were much amused by the nightly illumination, which 
this lofty volcano frequently exhihited to our view. Its 
summit was crowned with scarlet flame, and showers of 
red hot stones could be seen rising from the crater, fall- 
ing and rolling from its summit to near its base, which 
was abundantly ornamented with cocoa-nut trees. 

We had the pleasure of rowing round it, and of land- 
ing in several places to obtain cocoa nuts, but were un- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 195 

successful in our efforts, the nuts having previously been 
picked by the natives from the neighboring islands, who, 
it appears, occasionally visited the venerable mount. 

Santa Cruz contains two distinct races of men, the 
Malay and African, whose noses are ornamented with 
three shell rings ; their ears, which are stretched three 
inches beyond their natural length, have a large slit cut 
in them, sufficient to admit a hen's egg, which is filled 
with rings and beads. The Malay race wear white hair, 
bleached by some process; they are fearless,active and sly, 
which make them objects of suspicion. Notwithstand- 
ing their friendship while on board of ships, they will 
sometimes rise on the ship's crew. This was attempted 
on board of the Alfred, of Sidney, but their designs were 
discovered, and many of them lost their lives in the 
attempt. Having unsuccessfully cruised three weeks 
off these islands, we proceeded to the Solomon isles to 
take the sperm whale season there. 

On our arrival at the south end of Malanta, being near 
the shore, a number of canoes came off to see the ship. 
Some of them exhibited bunches of bananas, and we, 
being desirous of obtaining some of this delicious fruit, 
exhibited signs of friendship, and manifested a desire to 
trade with them. But our honest manifestations failed 
in the desired effect on their jealous and uncultivated 
minds. Soon the canoes returned to shore, and we made 
sail on the ship. In the afternoon a canoe, with eight 
natives, came very near us, and manifested a great de- 
sire to trade, but their jealousy finally over-ruled their 
desires. Our captain, who was anxious to cultivate 
friendship with them, had embraced the idea that if a 
boat was lowered down they would be more likely to 
trade with her than the ship. Accordingly he com- 
manded a lee boat to be lowered slily. The natives 
immediately perceived the movement, and in a moment 
sprung their bows, and several arrows fell on our quarter- 
deck, one of them within two feet of the captain, which 
had the effect of raising his ungovernable temper to the 
superlative degree, and not exercising moral courage to 
suppress it, he immediately hurried the boat in pursuit 
of the canoe to take revenge. I immediately perceived 



196 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

the danger to which we were to be exposed by this rash 
and unwise course, but being one of the crew, and not 
wishing to be stigmatized as a coward by my ship-mates 
1 reluctantly went into the boat with a full view of the 
danger before my eyes. We shoved off from the ship 
in hasty pursuit. There was a heavy sea and a strong 
breeze at the time, and the natives were paddling with 
all possible speed before the wind toward the land. — 
Soon we discovered the necessity of putting up our sail, 
as the canoe moved with a greater speed than our boat. 
Having done this we soon came up within a short dis- 
tance of her. The natives still continued their flight, 
using the greatest possible exertion, and at intervals fir- 
ing arrows at us ; but in consequence of the strong wind, 
and the roughness of the sea, the arrows being light, 
were prevented from performing execution, and they fell 
astern, or on either side of us. The canoe, finding itself 
closely pursued, and having no hope of escape, gave up, 
and threw itself across our bow, each man seizing his 
bow at the same time, waited for us to near them in or- 
der to make sure of their aim. Our backs, as we were 
rowing, were toward the natives, and this gave them an 
opportunity to kill every one us, before w 7 e could ap- 
proach them, as we had no means of attacking them at 
a distance, having but one musket, and our cartridges 
being expended. Now came the test to those who 
were so eager of pursuit. The mate, seeing his life in 
imminent danger, immediately rounded the boat to avoid 
the danger which was staring him in the face, and the 
natives seeing this, immediately renewed their flight. — 
We had scarcely taken down our sail when we perceived 
that the ship was upon us, and immediately took hold of 
her and hoisted in our boat. The ship, being under a 
pi ess of sail, had come up with the canoe, and several 
of the crew were engaged in firing at the natives in it ; 
and it is with regret I have to record, that out of eight of 
them only three survived the attack made by our captain. 
Having put the ship on the other tack, we fired off 
our cannons at ten large war canoes, which had come off 
to the assistance of the one which had been pursued by 
us. The immoral and inhuman conduct of our captain. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 197 

in this case, is deserving of the highest censure. He 
not only deprived five unfortunate beings of life, without 
having committed a sufficient crime, but he violated the 
law of God, which says, "Thou shalt not kill." He also 
wantonly endangered our lives, for had we been taken 
by those canoes, we most undoubtedly should have been 
slain, roasted and devoured by them. 

Not being able to discover any whales off this end of 
the island, we proceeded to the other end, where we 
arrived on the following day. We stood into the bay 
and proceeded close in shore, until we discovered a 
beautiful harbor, from which ten large war canoes sailed 
out to attack us. At first we imagined they were com- 
ing to trade with us, and accordingly hove the ship to, 
to wait for them ; but on approaching within grape-shot, 
they stopped all at once and stood up, flourishing their 
war clubs in the air, which w 7 as considered a hostile sign. 
At this our captain commanded the cannon to be fir- 
ed at them. It was loaded with cooper's rivets, and 
made a great scattering among them. They were so 
suddenly struck and confused by the report of the gun, 
that they did not know how to direct their canoes toward 
the shore, and for a few minutes paddled them round and 
round, but at last they recovered their minds, and re- 
treated with all possible speed. Some weeks after this, 
we raised a large school of whales, out of which we took 
seven large whales, and while in the act of killing them, 
w r e saw two large fleets of canoes ; one fleet was close 
to the ship Alfred's boats, two miles in shore of us ; the 
others were making their w T ay toward us. From the 
ship they saw the canoes among the boats, but could not 
discover what they were doing. Soon the fleet of ca- 
noes which kept on toward us, came near and commenc- 
ed a dreadful shouting, intermingled with loud and ter- 
rific yells, which were sufficient to carry dismay to our 
every heart. At the same time they commenced firing 
arrows at us. We had been watching their movements 
for some time, and being apprehensive of their coming 
to take the whales from us, we had prepared our lances 
in case we should be attacked by them. Our boats be- 
ing provided with a musket and fifty rounds of cartridges, 



198 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

each, opened a fire on them by which they were ter- 
rified and scattered, and with precipitance proceed- 
ed toward the shore. We pursued them for a short 
distance, firing at them, which caused them to redouble 
their speed for the shore. Several of them were killed 
and wounded by our fire as the just penalty of their ag- 
gression. The other fleet of canoes, having attacked the 
boats of the ship Alfred, we learned the next day that 
several of the natives were killed in the engagement; 
but what was more lamented by us, several of the crew 
with their captain fell in the conflict, and the ship came 
very near being taken. In consequence of this disaster, 
the ship was under the necessity of returning to Sidney 
with a broken voyage. 

We had been cruising here several weeks; and had es- 
caped every danger ; but our good fortune was reversed 
by an unlucky incident, which occurred to our boats 
while closely engaged in a school of whales. One of 
the boats was completely cut asunder and the crew was 
taken up by the captain's boat. The whale which had 
occasioned this misfortune, had two lines fast to her, to 
save which our boat was ordered to fasten to her. She 
was going swiftly through the water and we were rowing 
with all possible speed to get up with her. The whale 
went down close to us and we continued rowing in her 
wake in order to strike her on the next rising ; but all 
at once, without any warning, we were overset by her 
head ; and not being satisfied with this, she continued 
bumping the boat with her head for some time, as though 
determined to finish us. The next man to me and my- 
self jumped upon her head and stood there for a moment 
while she was a bumping the boat. The whale now 
left the boat and we with difficulty succeeded in regain- 
ing the bottom of the boat. The whale laid for a few 
minutes with her whole length out of water, and about 
10 feet from us, and then proceeded ahead, taking our 
shattered boat with her, at the rate of four miles per 
hour. Each one clung to the boat as the only hope of 
life. We were in a most deplorable condition and in 
the highest conceivable degree of danger, and at the rate 
that we were then going, one halfhour would have de- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 199 

cided our fate forever, as it was now nearly sun-down 
and we had lost sight of the ship and only in sight of 
one boat, and she had the stove boat's crew on board of 
her. Had we lost sight of this boat, we must have per- 
ished in the midst of the mighty deep. 

Being thus situated and death staring us in the face, it 
was apparent something must be done to extricate the 
boat from the whale; and this could only be done by cut- 
ting the line. To accomplish this object we had to ob- 
tain a knife and not one of us had one in our possession. 
We were now under the necessity of turning the boat 
over, which we attempted 15 times, as she was going 
through the wa'er to obtain a box knife, to cut the line. 
There was now another unforseen calamity which pre- 
sented itself to our view. Both the knives had been 
washed away, and the next thing that we had to depend 
upon was the boat's hatchet ; if we had failed in this, 
we must have gone forever, but fortunately for us, the 
hatchet had been made fast. With this we finally suc- 
ceeded in extricating ourselves from the whale, and 
then remained on the boat until we were picked up by 
the captain's boat which had now three boat's crews on 
board, the oars and two stoven boats astern of her ; and 
in this manner we proceeded to the ship which was five 
miles to the leeward of us. 

Some weeks after this, we sailed over to Isabel island, 
which is about 30 miles from Malanta. We cruised 
several weeks along its coast and were often visited by 
its natives, who generally came off in their large war 
canoes to trade with us. The general aspect of these 
natives is bold and daring. The hair of the young men 
is generally bleached, perfectly white, but those of mid- 
dle age, have their hair divided into four quarters, and 
each quarter is a different color, as white, red, black and 
yellow. 

Soon we were favored with an opportunity of learning 
the treacherous disposition of these natives, by an at- 
tempt which they made to take the ship John Bull, of 
Sidney, while lying becalmed at a short distance from 
us. Over 3,000 natives in their war canoes were around 
our ships at one time. Many of the canoes were along 



200 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

side of the John Bull, whose decks were soon covered 
with natives, who apparently soon became deeply enga- 
ged in trading with the crew. While thus engaged, one 
of our mast-head men discovered the natives putting 
their war-clubs in her main channels. The alarm was im- 
mediately given by hailing the ship. This surprised her 
crew, who instantly drove the natives from the ship's 
decks into their canoes. It was probably their original 
design to take both ships, but finding ours too high 
to accomplish their designs, they declined meddling with 
us, and directed nearly their whole force to the John 
Bull, she being a sin :\\\ ship and low in the water. 

A kw days subsequently to this we sailed for the other 
end of the island in search of whales, and not meeting 
with any offshore, we sailed in toward the land. Having 
got near a small island close into the shore, we discover- 
ed a large bay from our mast-head, full of whales. The 
entrance was narrow, as the island was in the centre of 
its mouth. Our captain being over anxious, had enter- 
tained the idea of venturing the ship in this unkown bay, 
if the natives, with whom the island and the shore were 
then lined, manifested signs of tranquility. But soon 
he had great reasons to banish this idea from his mind. 
The natives, seeing the ship becalmed and close to the 
shore, kept coming off in their large and small canoes 
until there were two or three thousand around the ship, 
but not one of them attempted to come near us, or ex- 
hibited signs of friendship. Perceiving by their actions 
that their intentions were hostile, we immediately got 
up our arms, loaded our guns and swivels and stationed 
several armed men in each top, while the rest were en- 
gaged in fixing old sails round the ship to prevent the 
natives from boarding us. By this time the natives had 
formed their canoes into a large ring, which completely 
encompassed the ship ; they kept constantly paddling 
round us in this position, leaving several small canoes 
out of the ring at each time they went round, thus mak- 
ing the ring smaller and smaller and drawing nearer to the 
ship. After having paddled round the ship several 
times, their ring which was now 7 composed of large war 
canoes, being sufficiently near for their arrows to reach 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 201 

us, they commenced shooting arrows and slinging stones, 
which fell in and against the ship by showers; at the 
same time they made tremendous and terrific yells, which 
struck the ear with horror and dismay. Amidst this 
hideous and dismal event our hearts continued buoyant 
and undismayed, being well aware that it would be im- 
possible for them to board us. They still continued to 
shoot their arrows and to make their terrific noises, near- 
ing the ship at the same time, thus exhibiting a bold de- 
termination to take the ship. They had approached 
within 60 feet of us when our captain commanded us to 
to be ready ; " ready" was the immediate response of 
every man. "Fire /" was the word of command. The 
command was instantaneously obeyed by the discharge of 
six swivels and £ guns, loaded with grape and canister 
shot. This discharge was followed, while the cannon 
and swivels were loading, by a discharge of 30 muskets 
from the tops and other parts of the vessel. These dis- 
charges were quickly followed by 4 more which overtook 
them before they could succeed in getting out of the reach 
of the grape shot. The effect produced was tremen- 
dous ; 15 large war canoes were totally destroyed and 
most of their crews. Their loss was estimated at 200 
men and as many wounded. The scene of confusion 
and destruction which our first fire produced among the 
natives was at once lamentable and laughable. Ma- 
ny of the natives lost their paddles, and being so terrified 
by the unexpected roaring and destruction which our 
cannon produced, that they did not know what to do 
or how to make their escape. In this confusion they 
paddled one against the other and some of them round 
and round having all their paddles on one side of their 
canoes. 
f Shortly after the encounter a light breeze came off 
the land and conveyed us to the offing where we cruised 
several weeks and took in 300 barrels of oil. 

The whale season being over at this island, we pro- 
ceeded to Japan to take the approaching season there. 
On our passage we ran through the midst of the Caro- 
line isles, continuing our course until we arrived at the 
Island of Guam, a Spanish island and the largest of the 
26 



202 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

Ladrones. It was expedient for us to put into this port 
to recruit the ship with fresh provisions. The island of 
Guam is nearly 100 miles long. Jt is high and moun- 
taneous and its surface is covered with woods. Its chief 
produce is rice and cocoa nuts, and these are scanty, 
not being sufficient to sustain its population, which are 
often in the winter season in a stale of starvation. The 
island, in former years, abounded with deer, but since it 
has become a Spanish colony, the introduction of fire- 
arms has nearly destroyed them. The natives still con- 
tinue to hunt them in the winter season, and to perform 
their work more effectually they build small huts in the 
mountains, to shelter them from the prevalent rains dur- 
ing the continuation of their hunting excursion. 

During the colonization of this island by the Span- 
iards, civilization has not made much progress among 
the natives. The natives of this island, notwithstanding 
that they seem to regard the popish religion, are in real- 
ity surpassed in civilization by many tribes of savages, 
who have never heard the sound of the gospel. 

Having recruited the ship, we departed for Japan and 
proceeded along the whole of the Ladrone isles. One 
of these islands is ornamented with one of nature's light- 
houses, which exhibits a beautiful, a brilliant light from 
the summit of the mount, which seldom fails of attrac- 
ting the attention of the passing mariner. 

At last we made the long expected land of Japan, off 
of which we anticipated filling our ship with sperm oil. 
We made White Point, off which we cruised for some 
time, and then proceeded to the north, close in shore. 
While cruising here we were visited by many of the 
Japanese fishing boats, with which the coast abounds. 
We obtained a number of curiosities from them which 
exhibited their ingenuity and cultivation cf the arts. 

We also visited several of the Japanese Junks, which 
greatly differ in construction from the vessels built by 
more refined nations. My attention was particularly at- 
tracted by the large houses which they have on deck 
for the accommodation of the crew and which oc- 
cupy over one half of the upper part of the vessel, 
rising eight or ten feet above board. I can give no 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. &G3 

better description of them than by comparing them, with 
the exception of their houses, to the ancient Greek and 
Roman vessels. 

The Japanese resemble the Chinese in features and 
costume, but those that I have seen differ somewhat in 
their shape from the Chinese, the former being rather 
shorter and thicker than the latter. 

After having cruised along the shore for several weeks 
in succession, amidst dense fogs, we stood off shore, an- 
ticipating better success on the off shore ground. We 
cruised there for a number of weeks with abundant 
success, having realized our anticipations by the taking 
of several whales, from which we extracted 900 barrels 
of oil. We then took our departure from the Japan 
seas and proceeded toward the Solomon isles, at which 
we arrived to take the ensuing whale season. 

Having cruised for several weeks, we were one day 
becalmed by the shore, and while thus waiting the ap- 
proach of the coming breeze to glide our lonely bark 
over the bosom of the limpid deep, we busied and 
amused ourselves by trading with the natives in two ca- 
noes, which were then lying astern of our ship. Our 
mate, who was acquainted with the Malay language, was 
endeavoring to make them understand by speaking to 
them in that language, supposing that by its similarity to 
ther own, they might probably take his meaning. While 
thus conversing with them, all at once one of their 
number leaped like a dart, from one of the canoes, 
swam along side of the ship and immediately gained the 
deck by the assistance of some of the crew. Instantly 
after he had leaped over board he was followed by two 
others, who with equal speed followed him on 
board of the ship. We were surprised by the unexpec- 
ted visit, and were at a loss to ascertain the cause of their 
mysterious conduct, having previously in vain invited 
them on board, but the mystery was soon unraveled by 
the painful information imparted to our mate by the first 
native that had come on board. There had been an 
English brig lost some ten years before, and a strong 
suspicion had long been cherished by navigators of her 
loss among these islands, and now the mystery which 



204 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

had so long been hid, was fortunately brought to light. 
The man who first swam to the ship, proved to be a 
Lascar and one of the crew of the missing vessel, who 
hearing his own language spoken, and knowing us to be 
English, immediately embraced the opportunity of liber- 
ating himself from the bonds of savage slavery, and be- 
ing confident of our protection, plunged into the sea and 
was quickly followed by two chiefs who endeavored to 
capture him, he being their slave. He gave a full and 
satisfactory history of the vessel and her crew, which ac- 
cording to his relation, had been cast on a small island at 
no great distance from Malanta and had subsequently 
disappeared. The vessel's crew, which consisted of 14 
Englishmen and 6 Lascars, were taken by the natives 
and put on a small island and there kept as the victims 
of their cannibalism. 

The description which he gave of the manner in 
which the natives disposed of the unfortunate crew was 
most appalling. It appears that the natives into whose 
merciless hands they had fallen had certain established 
festivals, which they celebrated by the sacrifice of such 
human beings as they had taken captives in their 
wars with each other; and as cannibals always consider 
white men their enemies, they were reserved as the sac- 
rificial victims of their fury. Whenever the tribe in 
whose power the unfortunate sailors had fallen, assembled 
to celebrate a festival, they proceeded to the small island 
in their canoes where their victims were encircled by the 
foaming billows in hopeless captivity, and made choice 
of a victim in whose blood to imbue their hand and by 
whose flesh to gratify the diabolical cravings of their can- 
nibal appetites. The victim being chosen he was then 
secured hand and foot and barbarously put to death by 
their rude and savage hands. After this the victim was 
roasted by a large fire. During the time that their re- 
past was preparing,they formed a ring around the fire and 
amused themselves by dancing and singing around the 
roasting victim. 

In this manner 17 of the crew were disposed of. Two 
Lascars beside himself, still survived their savage fury, 
and were kept in slavery. He was so overjoyed at his 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 205 

deliverance that he did not know how to express his feel- 
ings for some time. He gave information of the second 
mate of the Alfred, who had been captured by them 
while we were there in company with that ship on our 
previous cruise. He informed us that he was kept 
in slavery by them some ways back in the mountains. 
The Lascar was subsequently sent to Sidney to be taken 
to his native country. 

After having cruised on this ground for two months, 
during which time we had fortunately added 400 barrels 
to our voyage, we took our departure and proceeded to 
the New Hebrides. On our way, we lingered off the 
isle of Santa Cruz three days and then proceeded to 
one of those islands situate in the south of this group, 
to obtain a kw barrels of waler, being rather scanty of 
this precious beverage. We had previously received in- 
formation that by making a few presents to the chiefs, 
we might, with great caution, obtain a few barrels of 
water there. A number of the natives came off to trade 
with us, and among them was a chief, to whom our 
captain made several presents, as an equivalent for per- 
mitting us to obtain some water at the island. As the 
only part of the island, accessible, was guarded by seve- 
ral dangerous rocks and reefs, it was expedient, that we 
should have some one, acquainted with the place, to 
conduct the boats safe through the passages. This the 
chief cheerfully agreed to perform ; and accordingly 
went into one of the boats and conducted her safely to 
the shore. While one boat's crew were engaged in 
filling the barrels, the other were under the necessity of 
keeping under arms at a short distance from the shore, 
being apprehensive of the natives proving treacherous 
and seizing the boats as their prize, and us as their cap- 
tives. After the barrels were filled, two of the men, 
being over anxious of obtaining some fruits from the na- 
tives, imprudently suffered themselves to be decoyed in- 
to the woods by them, against the entreaties and remon- 
strances x)f their shipmates. After the water was put 
into the boats, they waited three hours for them, but 
finding that they could not obtain the information from the 
natives concerning them, they proceeded to the ship. 



206 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

They were again sent on shore in search of the two men, 
but failed of obtaining any information ; after cautiously 
avoiding the shrewd intrigues of the natives, who had 
assembled in great numbers along the shore, to decoy 
them into the woods, by pointing to them where their 
companions were, they pensively and reluctlantly re- 
turned to the ship to mourn their sad fate. 

After the return of the boats, the captain being in- 
formed of the proceedings on shore, immediately put the 
ship before the wind and we proceeded on our passage. 
As the ship receded from the land, we could not help 
reflecting on the unfortunate event, which reluctlantly 
compelled us to abandon those unfortunate ship-mates to 
their fate. Cur hearts were drawn out in sympathetic 
feeling, as we viewed at the distance, this isle of barba- 
rians sinking from our vision. 

This barbarous island, as well as Santa Cruz, is peo- 
pled by two races of men ; the Malay and African, who 
like the natives of Santa Cruz, adorned their noses and 
ears with tortoise-shell rings, and thpir heads by dying 
them with fine colors, which sets them off to good advan- 
tage. But what served to amuse more than any thing 
that we had seen, was the gaudy appearance of the Af- 
rican, whose hair was colored with a lively gold color, 
and at a distance very much resembled that precious 
metal. The scene was one which afforded much amuse- 
ment to our crew, when we first beheld them at a 
short distance from the ship in their catamarans, (a raft 
of logs fastened together with skins) exhibiting their 
well-shaped and jet-black forms, covered with golden 
crowns. This island, which is situated about 50 miles 
from Santa Cruz, was the identical one on which the 
unfortunate ship L'Enpereur was lost, on her voyage of 
discovery round the world. 

This discovery was made by an English brig, which 
happened to pass that way, while on her passage to the 
East Indies. While in the act of passing by the island, 
several canoes came off to trade with her, and among 
the many articles of trade, a sword was brought, which 
was bought by the captain of the brig, together with 
part of the vessel's figure-head. The sword proved to 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 207 

none other than that of the captain of the L'Empereur, 
and the figure-head a part of that which had once orna- 
mented that ill-fated ship. 

In twelve days after our departure from the New 
Hebrides, we arrived at the island of Rotamah, where 
we came to an anchor, to obtain a sufficient quantity of 
water to serve us to INew Zealand. Having cast an- 
chor, we immediately proceeded to provide the ship 
with a sufficient quantity of water and in four days suc- 
cessfully accomplished our object. 

While there we visited a great many of the natives' 
habitations, as we traveled over the island. We weie 
kindly treated by them, and frequently invited into their 
houses, and on several occasions were urged to partake 
of their wholesome repast. While on an excusion on 
the opposite side of the island, we came to a single hut, 
into which we were invited by several young persons, 
who apparently were its inmates. We readily accept- 
ed their friendly invitation, entered their hut and sat 
down on the sandy floor, covered with clean mats, made 
of cocoa-nut leaves. They appeared to be highly grat- 
ified, conversed freely by signs, and endeavored by eve- 
ry means in their power, to make us welcome to their 
hospitality. One strong mark of their sincerity was that 
the young men immediately commenced chewing the 
cassava-root, to make poie, to regale us on the occasion, 
which was a demonstration of their high respect and ap- 
probation. Poie is a liquor with which these natives 
regale themselves and their friends on extraoidinary oc- 
casions. No member of a family can engage in making 
this liquor, except the virgin males, by whom the root is 
chewed and put into a large wooden bowl, into which a 
sufficient quantity of water is then poured, and permit- 
ted to steep for a certain time, and it is strained by the 
same persons ; it is then considered fit for use. It is in- 
dispensable that those engaged in making the poie, be 
virgins, as all other persons are considered defiled, in 
consequence of which they are deemed unsuitable to 
make this extraoidinary beverage. 

The island of Rotamah is 8 miles long and not ex- 
ceeding one in its extreme breadth. It exhibits a grand 



208 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

and picturesque view to the eye scarcely to be surpassed. 
It is a fertile island and produces a variety of the cboic* 
est tropical fruits, and the largest cocoa nuts that 1 eveF 
beheld. The natives are of a very light complexion, 
handsome and well formed in every respect. In their 
general deportment they are generous, kind and courte- 
ous to strangers. 

My attention was particularly attracted by their gen- 
eral practice of loosening their long hair on every occa- 
sion when they visited us on board, or when we visited 
them in their habitations; and being peculiarly desirous 
of ascertaining the particular cause and utility of the 
practice, I made strict enquiry. I was informed that it 
was done as a great mark of politeness and respect to 
strangers. 

Their dress consists of a fine woven mat, fastened 
around their waist?, and extending below the knee. The 
upper part of the body, which is frequently anointed with 
yellow gum, is seldom covered. 

This island is governed by a king, chosen from among 
the chiefs, to reign for the term of three years, at the 
expiration of which another election takes place. There 
were then residing among the natives 23 Englishmen 
and one American, who had been induced by the natives 
to desert their ships and marry there. The marriage 
ceremony is performed by the chief of each tribe, whose 
services must be rewarded by the bridegroom with a 
cotton shiit. The bride is adorned with beads round 
her neck, and a cotton shirt for a wedding dress. Her 
father and mother are each to receive a cotton shirt, as 
an equivalent for their daughter, and then the marriage 
is confirmed. Three of our men, who had no desire to 
return home in the ship, were induced by the natives to 
desert, and unite in wedlock with some of the pretty 
nymphs of the isle. 

Tiie ship being now ready for sea, we took our de- 
parture from Rotamah, and in four weeks arrived in the 
bay of islands at New Zealand, and came to anchor in 
the beautiful harbor of Crorica, to refit the ship for En- 
gland. 

On our arrival we ascertained by the NewZealanders, 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 209 

who had been the voyage with us, that there was a mis- 
understanding existing between the two largest tribes in 
the island, which was likely to break out in hostilities 
and disturb its peace. Both the tribes belonged to the 
Bay of islands, and the greatest harmony and friendship 
had always prevailed between them until the present 
period. So great was their friendship that on various 
occasions their forces had been united and sent on suc- 
cessful expeditions to other parts of the island, from which 
they have returned laden with the trophies of victories 
over their enemies. The tribe which belonged to the 
opposite side of the bay, was headed by the daring chiefs 
Whorowroah and Tetory. The tribe belonging to Cro- 
rica was headed by the celebrated and invincible chiefs 
Kivakiva and Bumaray. It appears that the original 
seeds of their disagreement were sown in a then recent 
jealousy which had arisen among the Whorowrarians 
about the benefit of the trade, which the Kivakivians 
were enjoying from the fifteen ships then lying at Crori- 
ca. The Whorowrarians insisted on a ri«;ht to reside in 
Crorica, to share with them in the benefits to be derived 
from trading with the ships. The Kivakivians opposed 
them in their unjust pretension to a right of residence in 
their dominions, and therefore resolved to resist their at- 
tempts. 

A few days subsequent to our arrival, the ships in the 
harbor, and particularly ours, were crowded with the 
principal families of the Kivakivian and Bumaray tribes. 
They were, under the necessity of taking shelter on board 
of us, in consequence of the daily expectation of the 
Whorowroah tribe, coming to assert their claims by the 
force of arms. 

After the Kivakivians had endured ten days of painful 
anxiety, the long expected tribe arrived in their war 
canoes, and landed unmolested on Crorica beach. The 
warriors, who were 100 in number, immediately marched 
to the village, where they were promptly met by the 
Kivakivians. As soon as they met. both tribes were 
immediately arrayed opposite each other, a few paces 
distant, and in a few minutes commenced the war dance, 
accompanied by their terrific war song, in which all uui- 
21 



210 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

Ced as with one voice. Their tremendous and inhuman 
yells, which reverberated from hill to hill and wave to 
wave, were sufficient to dismay men of common forti- 
tude. After the conclusion of their dance the Whorow- 
rarians embarked in their canoes and returned to their 
respective places, apparently perfectly satisfied, but sub- 
sequent events proved otherwise. 

Having been for a few days in painful anxiety, anti- 
cipating a battle to be fought as soon as the belligerents 
should meet, and being thus happily disappointed, I was 
particularly led to inquire into the cause of these pro- 
ceedings, and was informed by one of our natives, a 
young chief, and a nephew of Kivakiva, that they had 
come with the undoubted design of taking advantage of 
the Kivakivians, but finding themselves outnumbered, 
they made a temporary treaty of peace, which was cel- 
ebrated by the war dance and song. 

Three days after, it was currently reported that the 
Whorowrarians were making great exertions to enlist the 
smaller tribes in their unjust cause, and were preparing 
an expedition against Crorica, which, according to their 
belief, could not lail of conquering the Kivakivian tribe, 

The Kivakivians being informed of their intentions, 
and being aware of the annihilation of their tribe if they 
were defeated, doubled their diligence in concentrating 
their tribe at Crorica from the various parts of the Cav- 
acaway river, to resist their enemies to the uttermost in 
their power. 

In ten days after the pretended treaty of peace, the 
Whorowrarian fleet of war canoes landed on a beach at 
the back of Crorica, about a mile from the village. 

The Kivakivians immediately placed a number of men 
on the hill above the village, to watch the motions of the 
enemy. The tribes continued to watch each other's 
movements for several days, during which time the En- 
glish missionaries and several of the ship-masters in port, 
visited the Whorowrarians, and endeavored to the utter- 
most of their power to adjust the existing difficulties and 
bring about a reconciliation. Their efforts were finally 
crowned with success, and it was agreed to conclude the 
peace with the customary war dance and song. Agree- 



OP THOMAS W. SMITH. 211 

ably to tliis, the Whorowrarians were to march over the 
hill into Crorica, where the ceremony was to take place 
the next day. 

At ten o'clock on the following day we were favored 
with the sight of the Whorowrarian tribe, as it descended 
into the valley of Crorica, from the summit of the hill. 
Soon they arrived at one end of the village, where they 
were received by the Kivakivians. They were arrayed 
in the same manner and went through the same kind 
of ceremonies as on the former occasion, except the war- 
song and the firing of muskets, by far exceeding the 
former occasion which was in consequence of the great- 
er number assembled. It was a calm and beautiful 
morning and the sun shone in full splendor upon the 
green valley and and the surrounding hills, which added 
grandeur to the scene. Being particularly desirous of 
watching every movement of the natives, I took my po- 
sition in the main-top-mast cross-trees, from whence 
could be distinctly discerned every transaction; but what 
added to my advantageous position, was the nearness of 
the ship to the shore and the brightness of the day. 

After the treaty of peace had been concluded in the 
usual manner, the Whorowrarians and Tetories took up 
a line of march to ascend the hill, in order to return to 
their canones, and from thence to their respective homes. 
They had proceeded a distance of 200 yards, when one 
of them very unwisely fired at a girl in the village and 
killed her. The reason he did so was, he claimed the 
girl as his slave ; she denied his claim, and was pre- 
vented by the Kivakivians from meddling with her. The 
shooting of girl unfortunately was the means of involv- 
ing these tribes in a bloody war, which proved disas- 
terous to both. The firing of this musket upon a friend- 
ly people was considered by the high-spirited Kivakivi- 
ans an audacious aggression and a palpable insult upon 
their tribe, and a viulation of the treaty which they had 
just concluded. Viwing the gross insult in this light, 
Bumaray, a high-spirited and intrepid chief, immediately 
returned the fire, by which the aggressor was killed. 

The Whorowrarians, who undoubtedly had artfully 
contrived this plan to break the treaty, seeing the ofFen- 



212 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

der fall, instantly ran furiously down the hill and attack- 
ed the Kivakivians in their village. A general engage- 
ment now ensued. The women and children fled by 
hundreds from their huts and plunged into the sea and 
swam to the ships for safety, while others ran to the op- 
posite end of the beach and embarked in the ship's boats 
and thus many of them escaped the fury of their ene- 
mies. Many were unfortunately wounded as they were 
retreating along the beach from their merciless foes, 
while others but narrowly escaped. Several of the wo- 
men while in the act of going off in the boat were woun- 
ded, and one of them, who was Kivakivers' daughter, 
met with her untimely end on this occasion. Some of 
the sailors were also wounded and several of the boats 
were badly injured by the bullets, which went through 
them. 

The Whorowrarians, who numbered 600 warriors, out 
of which only 200 were provided with muskets, were 
under the necessity of keeping their forces at one end 
of the village as they dared not attack them in front or 
rear, as it would have exposed them to the deadly fire 
of the Kivakivians, who were sheltered by their houses 
encircled by an insurmountable palisade. 

The Kivakivians, who at this time only numbered 
400 warriors with nearly 300 muskets, notwithstanding 
their inferiority of numbers, defended their village with 
heroic bravery which characterized their tribe. 

Soon after the commencement of the attack, I per- 
ceived the misssionaries boats with their white flags fly- 
ing at their bows, coming with all possible speed towards 
the field of battle, at which they arrived in about three 
quarters of an hour from its commencement. I watch- 
ed their progress with anxious intensity, being desirous 
of witnessing and ascertaining the effect which their im- 
mediate presence and influence would exert over the 
natives while engaged in the work of savage fury. They 
landed within J 00 feet of the Whorowrarians, and without 
hesitation, these two faithful servants of the Lord, walk- 
ed into the midst of the battle, seemingly unconcerned 
as to their own immediate safety. I gazed on them with 
deep and fearful solicitude as they approached the dan- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 213 

gerous scene, in full expectation of seeing them shot. 
As they proceeded into the midst of the tribes, I coun- 
ted over fifty bullets which fell near and around them, 
some of them not exceeding the distance of three or 
four feet from them. In fifteen minutes after their lan- 
ding a cessation of arms took place through their instru- 
mentality, and the Whorowrarians retreated over the bill, 
having been worsted in the battle, their total loss being 
60, ten of whom were chiefs ; their wounded amounted 
to an hundred. The total loss of the Kivakivians was 
fifteen and about as many wounded. 

Immediately after the Whorowrarians had left the vil- 
lage we landed on the shore for the purpose of seeing 
the dead and the wounded and to ascertain the losses of 
the tribe. 

On the following day it being the sabbath, we went 
on shore to witness the funeral ceremonies performed 
over the remains of Kivakiva's daughter, who had been 
shot the preceding day in the boat while in the act of 
going to one of the ships. The coffin which contained 
the body, after having remained afloat all night in one of 
their war canoes, was brought on shore and put on the 
ground by the side of her father's house. The mourn- 
ing women then assembled and formed a circle round her 
coffin and commenced singing a low and mournful song, 
at the same time cutting their limbs and faces with sea 
shells in such a manner as to draw their blood from ev- 
ery inflicted gash. By these combined means their 
feelings were excited into a flood of hypocritical tears, 
which continued until nature became wearied, and then 
they ceased operations, whieb left not a vestage of in- 
ward grief in their countenances. The corpse was then 
put into a canoe and taken to the bank of Cavacaway 
river, to be interred. 

The Kivakivians being well aware that their enemies 
would return furiously upon them as scon as they could 
reinforce their strength by the additional number enlisted 
from the inferior tribes, deemed it prudent to leave Cro- 
rica and proceed to Cavacaway river, where the most of 
their property was, to prepare to resist the invasion of 
their enemies to the uttermost in their power. To effect 



214 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

ibis, they embarked all their families and effects, and af- 
ter setting their village on fire, proceeded up the river 
and took up their residence on a commanding peninsula 
from which they could command both branches of the 
river. This peninsula was united to the main by a narrow 
neck of low land, about 50 feet wide, on which their 
canoes were hauled up out of the water. Its surface 
was nearly level and it contained about eight acres of 
good land, while its sides and outer end were composed 
of perpendicular rocks about 60 feet in hight. It was 
quite inaccessable, excepting in one place, that rose grad- 
ually to the summit, and this place was strongly fortified 
by two strong palisades. 

As the tribe had left Crorica we were under the ne- 
cessity of following them to the aforesaid place, to ob- 
tain a sufficient supply of potatoes and hogs for the ship. 
We visited them on the peninsula every day for a week, 
for the pnrpose of trade. We at last obtained the de- 
sired supply for which we gave them ten muskets and 
some powder and balls. The tribe obtained 100 musk- 
ets in trading with the several ships. These they put in- 
to the hands of their slaves and friends, who enlisted 
with them ftom the smaller neighboring tribes. They 
now numbered 500 warriors, fully equipped and ready to 
fight, a service in which they greatly delighted. In ad- 
dition to this, they were in daily expectation of 200 
armed men from Suceanna to strengthen their forces. 

Ten days after the departure of the Kivakivians from 
Crorica, the Whorowraians, who had been as far as 
North Cape, enlisting the tribes in their favor, appeared 
in sight and passed by the ships with 100 war canoes 
carrying about 1,500 men, who at the time of passing 
us were engaged in singing a terrific war-song, the very 
sound of which, it being being perfectly calm, reverbera- 
ted and echoed around the bay from hill to dale. 

After the tribe had passed us, I observed the boats of 
the Missionaries, speedily proceeding up the river among 
the canoes. They were followed by several boats from 
the ships, bearing their respective captains and other of- 
ficers, who were desirous of throwing in their influence 
to bring the unprofitable war to an amicable conclusion. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 215 

We proceeded up the river, and after rowing bard, an 
hour, came abreast of the Wborowrarian fleet of canoes, 
which were brought to a stand, on seeing the Kivakivi- 
ans in their commanding^and impregnable position, ex- 
hibiting a bold and fearless front and seemingly tearing 
up the very ground with their war-dance and making 
ing the air ring with their terrific war-songs, firing off 
at the same time 500 muskets in defiance to their en- 
emies. 

The Whorowrarians, notwithstanding their numbers 
exceeded those of their enemies, three to one, dared not 
approach them. While the two contending tribes were 
thus situated, the missionaries and the captains of the 
several ships were endeavoring to influence the chiefs to 
make an honorable adjustment of their difficulties. They 
finally succeeded in obtaining the Whorowrarians and Te- 
tories, providing that the Kivakivians would permit them 
to land on the peninsula to make peace in the usual way 
by dancing and singing. To this the Kivakivians object- 
ed, mistrusting their treacherous designs. They proposed 
that the chiefs only should land to make peace ; to 
which proposition Whorowrorah reluctantly complied, 
Accordingly, we took the chiefs into our boats and land- 
ed them on the peninsula, where, after a few hours, 
they and the missionaries succeeded in making another 
treaty of peace. In concluding the peace, Whorowrorah 
and Tetory insisted on a right to a part of the Crorica 
beach, as a permanent trading residence. Kivakiva and 
Bumaray would not concede to their unreasonable de- 
mands to any part of their lands ; adding, that if they 
dared to take up their residence on any part of it, they 
would drive them off, as soon as their re-inforcement 
should arrive frpm Sucaana ; and in this manner the 
peace was concluded and rested at our departure from 
New Zealand. This short war between these two pow- 
erful tribes, is one which had no parallel in the history 
of New Zealand, it being the first after the introduction 
of fire-arms into that island. 

Among the actors in this interesting scene, those who 
in my judgment took the most conspicuous and danger- 
ous part, were the missionaries, for which they highly 



216 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

deserve the most cordial commendation of the philan- 
thropic and civilized world. 

The general appearance of the island of New Zea- 
land is mountainous, especially on the sea-coast, but in 
the interior the land is more diversified into dales and 
globular hills, covered with rich soil capable of cultiva- 
tion. The island produces a variety and abundance of 
heavy timber, which the natives convert into the lnrgest 
war-canoes ever known, which carry each from 50 to 
100 men. 

New Zealand enjoys a temperate climate. This is 
evident from the fact that it produces the best of pota- 
toes, sweet-potatoes, corn, and all kinds of sauce, which 
grow spontaneously. 

Since our visit there, the British have planted a colo- 
ny on the island, by which means the beach and valley 
of ancient Crorica has been converted into a modern 
flourishing town of the English stamp. 

Having been at Crorica six weeks refitting the ship, 
and she being now ready for sea, with jovial hearts, we 
weighed anchor and made sail on our trusty bark for En- 
gland, leaving this pleasant isle and its interesting scenes 
behind us and steered our course for Cape Horn, which 
we made, on our passage round it. After a passage of 
14 weeks we arrived in the English channel, having 
gained one day in time in our circumnavigation of the 
globe. 

In a few days we arrived in London, to the joy and 
rejoicing of relatives and friends, after an absence of 33 
months. In the course of a few weeks, the oil was sold, 
of which for my share I received £75 ; with a part of 
which I decently clothed myself, and with the remainder 
I set up a small shop, thinking to gain_a subsistence, but 
not possessing adequate knowledge for a business life, I 
soon failed, and was under the necessity of casting my lot 
again upon the trackless and tempestuous ocean for my 
support. 



OF THOJIAS W. SMITH. 217 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Departure from London ; unfavorable passage ; the vessel springs 
aleak 500 strokes per hour; arrival at Delagoa bay ; trading 
with the natives ; the crew take the Delagoa fever ; gale of wind; 
exposure of the boats to the gale ; loss of one boat and safety of 
the other ; continuation of the gale; loss of the vessel on the 
sandy coast; subsidence of the gale; landing of the boat's crew ; 
travels and arrives at the wreck; death of the captain and sev- 
eral of the crew : the property is taken out of the vessel and put 
in a tent ; the tent surrounded by hundreds of armed natives, 
who keep pillaging its contents ; outrageousness of the natives ; 
the natives seize the property ; retreat from the tent to the Mar- 
tha's wreck ■ the author is attacked by the fever ; continuation 
and sufferings on the wreck ; deliverance from the wreck ; vis- 
ited by the king ; ornaments of the king and his nobles • ships 
on board the Bremen ; whaling and sufferings in the bay ; Por- 
tuguese colony and their progress in civilization; departure of 
the ship ; arrives on her cruising grounds ; a calamity overtakes 
the author which nearty terminates his existence ; unreasonable 
and dangerous requisitions of duty b} r the captain ; unparalleled 
sufferings of the author ; recovery of his health ; the author's 
mind is called to attend to the future prosperity of his soul ; ar- 
rival at St. Helena ; arrival and sufferings in New Bedford ; de- 
prived of his just dues ; manner of killing whales ; convinced of 
wrong religious views ; experiences religion ; call to preach the 
gospel ; trials of his mind ; unfolds the state of his mind to sev 
eral of the brethren ; introduction to Elder Himes ; encourage- 
ment; enters the institution at Beverly to study for the minis- 
try ; falls in arrears and is compelled through poverty to relin- 
quish his studies ; attempts to resume his studies ; he is taken 
ill -with a lung fever ; cessation of the institution. 

THIRTEENTH VOYAGE. 

In 1831, having obtained a vessel going on a whaling 
voyage on the east coast of Africa, then considered a 
good place for whales. I sailed in full anticipation of 
making a short and prosperous voyage. 
28 



218 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

Our passage, until after crossing the equator, was fa- 
vorable, but on proceeding into higher latitudes, the 
winds became unfavorable, and the vessel being a re- 
markable dull sailer, was driven on the Brazil coast. She 
now sprang a leak 500 strokes per hour, which cast a 
veil over our future prospects, and fore-warned us of her 
destruction, and our disappointments and sufferings. At 
last, after the lapse of five months, we arrived at Dela- 
goa bay on the east coast of Africa. 

The first object which we had in view, subsequent to 
our arrival, was the stopping of the vessel's leak. To 
accomplish this, we took her to the safe and beautiful 
harbor of St. Mary, where, after performing two week's 
faithful labor, we accomplished our task. We then pro- 
ceeded to Cow bay, where we came to an anchor to 
await the whale season, which had not as yet commenced. 
During the intermission our captain visited the natives for 
the purpose of trading with them for ivory. In this he was 
abundantly successful, having obtained several hundreds 
of sea-horses' teeth from them. But it would have been 
better for him and us if he had not undertaken this busi- 
ness, which subsequently proved to be the cause of the 
total loss of the vessel and half the crew. Our captain 
and four men, who had been engaged in trading with the 
natives, in consequence of their exposure to the night 
dews, were taken ill with the Delagoa fever. The pro- 
gress of the disease was so rapid, having no medical aid 
to arrest it, that in four days one of them paid the trib- 
ute to nature. 

About this time we were expecting the whales to set 
into the bay, and we, being anxious to get in shore be- 
fore the other ships' boats, left our vessel at three o'clock 
in the morning, the distance being seven miles. 

In the fore-part of the night it had been blowing a 
strong wind from the south, but after midnight the wind 
had abated considerably, which had led us to expect 
that we should be favored with a calm, beautiful day ; 
but in this we were disappointed. At break of day we 
ascertained that we were close in shore, and ten miles 
to the leeward of the ships, which were lying at anchor 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 219 

at Cow bay. As the sun rose it exhibited indications 
of the approaching storm. In an hour so great was the 
progress of a storm, that it was deemed advisable to 
return to our vessel, the hight of the wind and sea ren- 
dering it impossible for us to have killed a whale had 
we fastened to one. 

We rowed toward the vessel with all possible energy 
against a very high sea and wind which was rising rapid- 
ly on us, until we approached within two miles, and not 
being able to proceed any farther, in consequence of the 
raging wind and sea, we came to anchor at no great dis- 
tance from the bark Bremen, of New Bedford, which 
had lost one of her anchors and had driven toward 
us. We laid at anchor, the spray flying continually 
over us, until„4 P. M., at which time the tide had be- 
come favorable for us, and it was thought that we might 
possibly gain the ship by extraordinary exertions, as the 
change of tide had smoothed the sea considerably. Ac- 
cordingly we took up our anchor and endeavored to the 
uttermost in our power to gain the vessel, but in vain. 
After rowing nearly three hours, during which time we 
had encountered the fury of the gale, sometimes gaining 
and at others losing ground. Finding that we had 
gained only a quarter of a mile during our exertions, 
and being aware that the gale was now increasing in pro- 
portion as the night approached, and having no prospect 
before us if we continued in the boat but a w T atery grave, 
we concluded to make the best of our way, if possible, 
towards the bark Bremen, to obtain safety for the night. 
Accordingly we rowed toward the vessel, keeping the 
sea on our bow for fear of being upset by it, and finally 
succeeded in getting astern of her and fastening to a 
buoy which had been let down from the ship for the 
purpose of drawing our boat up, in order to gain the 
ship's deck. Having hauled our boat close to the stern, 
we were taken out by means of ropes fastened to us. 
In consequence of not being able to take our boat up 
she was secured with two tow lines astern of the ship, 
but no one being on board of her to keep her head to 
the sea, she was upset in ten minutes after. 

On gaining the ship's deck we were kindly received 



220 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

and handsomely treated during our stay on board by the 
benevolent Americans. 

The gale continued to rage during the night with una- 
bated fury. On the following day about 10 A. M. the 
fog cleared away ior a short time, which gave us an op- 
portunity of counting the vessels in the harbor, by which 
we ascertained that our vessel and the ship Martha of 
New Bedford were missing from the harbor. There 
was not the least doubt entertained by us, of their being 
a total loss, as it was impossible for them to have gone 
to sea clear of the lee shore, with the wind as it was. 
Our greatest fears were that they might have gone 
on shore in King Majaker's dominions, and if this had 
proved to be the case, their loss of life was inevitable, as 
they undoubtedly would have been roasted and devoured 
by the Majakians, who are cannibals. 

The gale continued to rage for three days, and on the 
fifth we succeeded in landing on the shore, abreast of 
the shipping, to obtain information from the natives con- 
cerning our vessel. We had one native with us, who 
had been shipped to assist during the whaling season at 
this place. He could speak the English language toler- 
ably well, as he had been to England in an English ship. 
Jacky, this being his name, was to conduct us along 
shore, where we could fall in with some of the natives 
from whom we might obtain the desired information. 
Accordingly after having hauled up our boat wr proceed- 
ed along shore and after having walked about three miles 
we met two natives, from whom, through the medium 
of Jack, our interpreter, we ascertained that there were 
two Engar-wallers, meaning two ships, on the shore at 
a distance of 21 miles from us. We proceeded to the 
melancholy spot, where on our arrival we beheld our 
unfortunate little bark high and dry, upon the sand, and 
at half a mile's distance from her lodged the beautiful 
ship Martha, stern on. At our arrival at the wreck, we 
met the other boat's crew, who had been in company 
with us on the first morning of the gale, but they not 
being able to keep up with us, we lost sight of them 
about noon and knew not what had become of them, 
They informed us that finding it impossible to brave the 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 221 

gale, they steered the boat to the shore as their only 
means of safety, but on their landing, they met with a 
great disaster in the loss of one man and the boat, and 
had it not been for the assistance rendered them by the 
natives, they must have all been inevitably lost. They 
also informed us of the much lamented death of our cap- 
tain and two boat-steerers, who had been sick with the 
fever. We were then led to the tent they had erected 
behind a small sand hill, a short distance from the wreck, 
and their we met those who were left in charge of the 
vessel when we left her. We then made every possible 
inquiry of them, to ascertain the cause of the vessel's 
being lost, but received no satisfactory information from 
any of them. The fact of the matter has always been 
obvious to my mind, and that is, there weie 7 persons 
on board when we left ; out of these there were but three 
capable of performing duty ; the boy, cook and carpen- 
ter ; the others w r ere unable to get out of their beds; 
and this brings me to the original cause of the loss 
of the vessel. It was in consequence of the sick- 
ness on board. Had our captain and men been well, it 
would not have occurred, but as it was, these men left 
in charge of her, not being aware of their danger, went 
to sleep on their watch, and while thus buried in slum- 
ber, the vessel parted her cable and was permitted to go 
on shore with a good anchor on her bow, all ready to be 
dropped. Having arrived at the tent, our mate imme- 
diately took charge of it and its contents ; meantime he 
ordered me to get the remainder of the things out of the 
cabin and run and bring them to the tent for safety, as 
we then thought. This task I accomplished by the as- 
sistance of some of the most thoughtful and temperate 
of the crew, as the most of them having access to six 
barrels of Jama ; ca rum, were now r diunk. We had in 
our tent several thousand dollars worth of property, 
which we were desirous of preserving for the benefit of 
the owners. We were in hourly expectation of the ar- 
rival of the boats from the ship Alexandria, which be- 
longed to the same owners, to take the properly off and 
deliver us from our fearful anxiety. 

Finding ourselves continually surrounded by two or 



222 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

three hundred natives, armed with spears and clubs, who 
were pilfering the property at every opportunity, we 
made application to King Mihier to protect us and the 
property from the intrusion of his subjects, who were 
hourly becoming more bold and outrageous. On the 
day following the application we were visited by a num- 
ber of high officers from the king, who brought with 
them an inferior sacaratan, to stay with us to keep the 
natives out of the tent and from embezzling the property. 
Accordingly he took his place in the tent with the mate 
and myself, the only two out of the crew who stayed to 
take care of the tent and its contents. The natives dai- 
ly became more numerous and outrageous in their pro- 
ceedings, and the tent was from time to time assailed by 
them without any regard to the sacaratan, who only 
made a sham attempt to prevent them, and frequently, 
instead of preventing their intrusion, assisted them in 
accomplishing their dishonest designs. 

We had now passed away five anxious days and sleep- 
less nights, and being apprehensive of the safety of the 
property, we deemed it advisable to have it conveyed 
on board of the Martha's wreck, as the boats from the 
ship had not as yet come to our assistance, and the na- 
tives had become drunk and quarrelsome among them- 
selves, in consequence of having taken a barrel of rurn 
out of the brig's wreck. Accordingly we first commen- 
ced by taking some of our own things, in which we suc- 
ceeded without being interrupted. On our return we 
found the sacaratan missing and nearly all the property 
gone. Finding that our chests and beds were gone, two 
of us took the only remaining bale of clothes out of five, 
worth from 5 to $600; but the natives, seeing that 
they were going to be deprived of their remaining booty, 
soon compelled us to relinquish it, claiming it and all on 
the beach as the property of King Mihier. They then 
abused us through the medium of Jack, who said that 
"the English were no good," and that "'the Mihierians 
would kill us if we did not soon leave the shore." In 
a few minutes after, they began to quarrel about the 
property they had stolen from us and we therefore thought 
it prudent for our personal safety to get on board of 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 223 

the Martha, as she stood erect and being high, the na- 
tives could not get on board of her. 

Here we felt safe from any intended aggression from 
the natives, who, notwithstanding their pretended friend- 
ship, evidently would not have hesitated to have ta- 
ken our lives for the sake of gain. 

During the six weeks that I was on board the wreck, 
J was afflicted with a slow fever, that I had taken while 
on shore from the offensive smell of the natives, which 
was so intolerable that it fairly made me sick at the 
stomach. 

While on the wreck I suffered considerable by sick- 
ness, for the want of assistance and a suitable place to 
lie on ; as I was under the necess'ty of lying on a large 
rope cable with my clothes on, instead of a bed. 

While on the wreck we were honored with a visit 
from King Mihier and his two sons, who came to view 
the ship, as she rested on the sand. On his arrival, his 
body guard formed themselves into a large ring and sat 
on the sand, while his majesty, with a few of his nobles 
occupied the central position of the ring. After his sa- 
caratans had prepared the steps for his reception, his 
majesty came on board and apparently was astonished 
at t he size of the ship. He was an elderly man, of much 
lighter complexion than any of his subjects. His naked 
limbs were ornamented, from his wrists to his elbows and 
from his ankles to the middle of his leg, with large brass 
rings handsomely polished. The whole of his fingers 
were also ornamented with rings, and his neck with four. 
Many of his suit were also decorated in the same manner. 

Having, in some measure, recovered from the fever, I 
shipped on boaid the bark Bremen, of New Bedford, 
being desirous of visiting the United States before my 
return home. In her, while in the bay, we suffered 
considerably from fatigue, occasioned by being out at 
night with dead whales and rowing daily at such a great 
distance from the ship in search of them. 

After the whale season had expired, the ship proceed- 
ed to English river ; and after having supplied the ship 
with a sufficient quantity of water there, we proceeded to 



224 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

the whaling grounds to the westward of the Cape of 
of Good Hope. 

The land along the east side of the Delagoa hay, as 
far as King Mihier's and Majaker's dominions, is very 
low and is composed of white sand, along the sea coast, 
covered with small hushes. 

At the entrance of English river, which is to the north, 
is a small Portuguese colony, which has been in exist- 
ence over 30 years, but it has made little progress in 
civilizing the natives, as its influence does not extend be- 
yond King Mihier's dominions. The colony is a well 
known mart for the nefarious African slave trade which 
has been extensively carried on ever since its foundation, 
and from all the information we were enabled to collect, 
it was founded with that intent. 

St. Mary's, which is opposite to English river, is 
mountainous. It has a king and a great number of in- 
habitants, who live at their ease, and shun the very 
sight of a Portuguese vessel, knowing them to be slav- 
ers. They are friendly and honest, and strangers may 
travel all over the island without being molested. 

Having arrived on our cruising grounds, we continued 
cruising for three or four months, during which time we 
took in 6 or 700 barrels of whale oil, after which, the 
ship's time being expired, she proceeded on her passage 
to St. Helena where she arrived and came to anchor for 
a few days to refresh the crew. 

While cruising on the whaling ground, I was overta- 
ken by the greatest calamity that ever befell me during 
the whole period of my life. It came within ^a hair's 
breadth of terminating my existence. The misfortune 
occurred in ignorance and obstinacy of the captain, who 
who against reason and common sense, insisted on bavins; 
a 200 gallon cask of oil rolled over to the weather side of 
the ship, without first securing it in a proper manner to 
avoid accidents, which frequently occur for the want of 
precaution. The ship was under double-reef topsail, 
rolling heavily, and being trying out at the time, the 
spray flying on board, which mixed with grease and 
water on deck, rendered it difficult for a person to go from 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 225 

one part of the ship to the other in safety. While thus 
laboring under these disadvantages, the unreasonable 
man insisted in having his own way, notwithstanding the 
expostulations of the men. The cask was taken from 
the lee-side of the try-works, according to his wish and 
rolled nearly to the weather-side of the ship ; the ship 
rolled to the leeward which caused the cask to slide 
back and the men, not being able to keep their feet, slid 
back also. Three unsuccessful attempts were made ; 
and he, not being satisfied with having exposed our lives 
thus far, ordered the fourth attempt to be made, in 
which we all fell. Seeing the cask was near killing 
three or four of us, he exclaimed ; " if it is likely to 
come over you, let it go overboard !" This was enough 
to say to the green hands, who immediately let go the 
cask, now near the ship's side, to be supported by two 
of us who happened to be in the middle. Finding our- 
selves deserted, we endeavored to make our escape al- 
so ; but in attempting this, my feet slipped on the 
grease, and I fell between the cask and a timber head, 
against which I was nearly crushed to death. The breath 
left my body, with a moan, and did not return until a 
few seconds had transpired. The captain now cried 
out ; " pull him out !" as though by this, he was going 
to recompense the injury which had been caused by 
his agency. The men, who stood by aghast, immediate- 
ly obeyed the mandate, and I was taken out apparently 
lifeless and laid on the after hatch. Soon my speech fee- 
bly returned, and I requested the captain to bleed me 
immediately. I was then taken below and bled, after 
which I was laid on a bed which belonged to one of 
the men, not having one of my own. I had been under 
the necessity of sleeping on the sailors' chests for 14 
weeks previous to the accident. That night, by the 
captain's request, a young man of sympathetic feelings, 
watched over me, expecting I should depart this life be- 
fore the dawn of another sun. In consequence of the 
great injuries on several parts of my body 1 was 
confined three months to my bed, seven weeks of which I 
laid on my back, not being able to lie in any other po- 
sition. I suffered the most excruciating pains that hir- 
29 



226 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

man language can express. These injuries were inflict- 
ed on my left haunch-bone, which is yet lame, my right 
shoulder-blade, which is out of place with my collar and 
shoulder bones ; the lower part of my neck and lungs were 
injured, and three libs broken. The medical assistance 
which I received during my illness to allay my pains, con- 
sisted of bleeding onl) by my request, and being bathed 
with camphor twice ; such was the humanity of our cap- 
tain and officers ! My recovery, laboring under so many 
hindrances, was considered by all very doubtful ; and 
now, to me, seems almost a miracle. 

While thus afflicted my mind was called to reflect on 
my past life, and the prospect of the future. It had been 
previously impressed with this subject, while lingering 
with the slow fever on the wreck. 1 then promised God 
that if he would spare me, I would serve him the re- 
mainder of my days. I now renewed my promise, and 
since that time I frequently read my bible, and tried to 
pray, but notwithstanding my sincerity I was deficient of 
that spirit w r hich characterizes the followers of the meek 
and lowly Son of God. 

The ship, having sufficiently recruited, took her de- 
parture from the island of St. Helena for the United 
States, and after a favorable passage arrived at New 
Bedford on the 7th of March, 1832. The crew went 
to their respective homes or boarding houses, to receive 
the congratulations of their relatives and friends, after 
an absence of 14 months from their native land. 

It now became the subject of inquiry with me. how 
was I to proceed, and which would be the most suitable 
course to pursue, as I was lame, destitute, and a stranger 
in a strange land, and no one seemed to be willing to be 
burdened with me or my afflictions, seeing no future 
prospect of reward, as 1 was unable to labor. 

Being situated in this deplorable condition, I was un- 
der the necessity of taking the ship's forecastle as my 
boarding house until the owners should settle with the 
crew, when 1 expected to have something coming to me 
as a reward for the hard labor I had performed on board 
of her in assisting to take in 400 barrels of oil previous 
to the accident happening to me. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 227 

As I had no place to visit, I employed my time in 
walking the streets and viewing the town, and at night I 
would return to the ship and make my meal of some 
very small pieces of hard bread, dirty and greasy, and 
fit only for hogs. In this manner I lived nine days on 
bad bread and cold water. By this time the ship being 
discharged, I was under the necessity of providing my- 
self with a boarding house, but how to get one, in the 
condition that I was in, I did not know. At last I met 
w r ith an Englishman, an old acquaintance of mine, and 
by his assistance I succeeded in obtaining a boarding 
place. 

I took the few remaining things out of the vessel, 
which I had left when I was wrecked. I met the cap- 
tain of the ship, who informed me that the owners were 
not willing to pay me any thing for my share of the oil, 
and that they had compelled him to go to the custom 
house and sign some papers, to testify that I was a pas- 
senger on board, and had worked my passage in the ship. 
On being thus informed, I was surprised that a man of 
his standing in society, claiming to be an honest man, 
should debase himself so low as to comply with the re- 
quest of the owners, if such request was made, for the 
purpose of defrauding a poor, destitute sailor, as I was, 
of my just dues. I did not say much to him, being 
aware that I could not remedy the evil which had been 
done. 

Being thus deprived of the expected trifle, all my de- 
pendence to defray my expenses until I could go to 
Boston, where I intended to aro to obtain assistance from 
the English Consul, I was compelled, through necessity, 
to go to work in my feeble condition, in consequence of 
which I took a severe cold, which settled on my lungs 
and laid the foundation for a consumptive disease in my 
system. 

As I have led the reader by my side, exhibiting to him 
the various scenes of my past life, with which I trust 
he has been interested, and as I am now about closing 
the narrative of my voyages, I have deemed it advisable 
to give a concise description of the mode of taking whales. 

As soon as the ship arrives on her whaling ground, 



228 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

three men are constantly stationed at the mast's head to 
look out for whales. As soon as the whales are discov- 
ered at a distance blowing; the water several feet above 
the surface of the sea, the men at the mast's head im- 
mediately cry out : " there she blows !" This well 
known sound electrifies the whole ship's crew. Every 
thing of less consequence is instantly dropped, and the 
hands are engaged in making preparations for lowering 
the boats at a suitable time. As soon as the whales are 
sufficiently near, the boats are lowered and fastened to 
them, with a harpoon to w 7 hich is fastened 250 fathoms 
of tow line, which is coiled into two large tubs, carried 
in the boat for the purpose. This line is let out or ta- 
ken in as circumstances may require. 

I once had the misfortune of being fastened to a large 
whale which sounded out four lines, and finally after toil- 
ing with her half a day, we cut from her aft>r sun-down; 
however, these cases are rare. At other times I have 
been engaged in killing whales equally as large and lar- 
ger in a short time without letting 20 fathoms of line out 
of the boat. 

The most expeditious way of killing a whale is this : 
as soon as the boat is fastened, the whale feeling her inju- 
ry immediately starts ahead or down like a dart ; at this 
time she goes but a very short distance, then stops to cut 
and thrash with her (looks and to look out for her enemy. 
The boat meanwhile should not slack out any more line 
than she can possibly help. While the whale is thrash- 
ing, the boat should go as near to her as possible, to 
embrace the first opportunity of lancing the whale before 
she starts off. If the head's man succeeds in doing this, 
she will be killed very easy, because the whale is sick- 
ened, but if you fail of embracing the opportunity you 
generally have trouble with her. I have seen many 
whales killed with only being lanced once, and particu- 
larly school whales, and have been fastened to others 
when the sea has been rough, that have taken the boat 
like a dart to windward for miles, during which the crew 
would be under the necessity of holding themselves down 
to the bottom of the boat to prevent going overboard, 
the boat leaping over one or two seas without touching 
them with the centre of her bottom. 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 229 

By school whales, I mean small ones, which traverse 
the ocean by hundreds and thousands. When a school of 
whales is discovered by the ship, it is soon ascertained 
whether they are feeding or making a passage ; if the 
latter, they are then moving together like a flock of sheep, 
spouting once in about 15 minutes, but if going swiftly 
they spout almost continually. If feeding, they are scat- 
tered six or eight miles apart, frequently changing their 
direction, going slow, and when they come up to blow, 
they lay on or near the surface sometime and spout about 
thirty times; this is an indication that they are perfectly 
undisturbed on the ground. When whales are thus sit- 
uated, the boats have a good chance, and they fasten to 
the first whale that comes to hand. It is then the duty 
of the head's man to let the whale alone for some time, 
until the school is gathered around her. As soon as the 
whale is stuck to the harpoon, the school take the alarm, 
and you may see them from the ship's mast-head, at a 
distance of 6 or 7 miles round the horizon, coming, 
heads out, to sympathize with their unfortunate fellow 
creature, around which they will thickly gather. When 
the head's man of the several boats ; whose duty it is to 
keep round the fast whale to wait for the school, sees 
that the school has collected, he should strike and drug 
as many as he can, as the school will, after collecting;, 
move in a body to escape their common enemy. By 
drugging I mean a piece of thick flat wood, 18 inches 
square, with five fathoms of line fastened to it, which is 
fastened to a harpoon thrown to the whale, to prevent 
her speed and to designate her from the others. Some- 
times the boats of one ship will drug ten whales, which 
together with their fast whales make perhaps fourteen. 
The progress of these fourteen whales being impeded 
exerts a great influence over the school, which delays its 
progress, and this delay gives the boats still more op- 
portunity to kill them. When the school takes off im- 
mediately, it makes it more dangerous and difficult for 
the boats to take them, as in this case the fast whale 
often gets in the centre of the school, and there is no 
possible way of getting to her in safety, while she thus 
occupies that position, as the whales keep so near round 



230 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

the boat, that you may frequently touch them with 
your hand, and at times come with their noddles quite 
easy against the boat and settle down without attempting 
to injure you in the least. At other times the fast whale 
will take the boats through the school with great rapidity 
over their backs, which makes it very dangerous as they 
sometimes strike furiously with their flooks at the boat as 
she passes. When this is the case the greater the speed 
the less is the danger. 

It may be imagined that the boats could easily escape 
all this danger by slacking off their lines. This would 
be inconsistent with the nature of wha!ing,for if they did 
this they would soon lose their lines and their whales. 
It is therefore indispensable that they hold on to the line 
and keep as near to die fast whale as possible, in order 
to kill her with the lance. After the several boats have 
killed their fast whales which they raft, in order to find 
them again, they then pick up the drug whales one after 
another and kill them, if they have not previously been 
killed by some of the boats. It frequently occurs that 
schools are brought to. When this is the ease, the boats 
are highly favored with the best of chances, as they can 
then kill a gieat many more, if they only work wisely 
and smartly. I once had the pleasure of taking eight 
whales at one lowering with the boat that I then belong- 
ed to; but such cases are rare. At another time I was in 
company with a ship belonging to Port Jackson, which 
with three boats took sixteen whales out of a school, and 
one of them bore no sign of a wound, having been 
drowned by the lines of the boats with which it got so en- 
tangled that it deprived it of power to rise to the surface 
to breathe, which w 7 as the occasion of its death. After 
the whales are dead, they are taken along side of the 
ship and cut in, which is done by cutting around her 
body, commencing near the eye, and taking up the end 
of the blubber by a purchase which is hove by the wind- 
las until it can go no farther, and then another purchase 
is put to the blubber above deck and the piece above is 
cut off and swings over the main hatch- way, and is low- 
ered down into the blubber room, as it is called. 

Of the dangers, trials and amount of sufferings endur- 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 231 

ed by sailors engaged in this business, I will not attempt 
to describe ; they are numerous and almost indescribable* 
After I had resided in New Bedford about two years, 
living as 1 then thought in the full enjoyment of religion, 
agreeable to the notion of the community of English 
people, my attention was arrested by a great revival at 
one of the churches, which greatly attracted the atten- 
tion of the citizens. I was informed that a discourse 
was to be delivered on the non- scriptural command of 
of infant baptism, and the impropriety of the practice ; 
and as I was a full believer in the doctrine, having been 
sprinkled in my infancy after the manner of the English 
church, I went to hear the discourse, to see what the 
preacher would make of it. After I had heard the 
discourse, I became fully convinced of my error. This 
led me to search the scriptures more strictly than I had 
previously done which labor eventually resulted in the 
conversion of my heart to God. 

On the following evening, I went to meeting again. 
It was a crowded house. The discourse was preached 
by Elder Simon Clough. His text was the following 
words : " Why stand ye here all the day idle?" The 
discourse was solemn and searching, and well calculated 
to soften the strong heart and deeply impress the mind 
of man with a sense of his duty to God. His appeal to 
my conscience had the desired effect, and from that 
moment until the day of my conversion, I felt a burthen 
on my mind that language cannot describe. 

A few months after my conversion, my mind became 
deeply impressed with a belief that I was called of God, 
to preach the gospel. I expostulated with myself on the 
propriety of my call to the ministry, being illiterate and 
having no means of educating myself for the important 
work. I made it a subject of daily prayer, and the 
morel prayed for God's enlightened spirit and guidance, 
the deeper I felt the impression. While laboring under 
these solemn views, I applied myself diligently to the 
study of the scripture by night, as I was under the ne- 
cessity of laboring hard by day to obtain a subsistence. 
In this state of mind I lingered for seventeen months, at 
the expiration of which I fortunately fell in with a small 
tract, which perfectly described the nature of a call. It 



232 LIFE AND TRAVELS 

was so applicable to my condition, that I could not avoid 
imagining that I had been favored with it by the spe- 
cial providence of God. I wrote a letter to the pas- 
tor of the church, asking for an explanation of the 
nature of a call to the ministry, and whether it could be 
possible for an illiterate person, to be called of God in 
this enlightened age to that important duty. Sabbath 
after sabbath rolled over my head without receiving the 
desired information, from the reverend brother, in con- 
sequence of which delay my mind became unusually de- 
pressed. Being tried in my mind, I visited my pastor, 
at his residence, and sought the desired information, and 
his advice in the case. He coolly and disinterestedly 
said, that if I thought that my mind was impressed with 
the duty of preaching, an education was indispenable, 
which I might acquire in the course of three years at 
the Christian Manual Labor Academy, which was then 
about being established at Beverly. 1 then inquired of 
him, if I could not be assisted by the church, in case I 
should not be able to defray my expenses at school by 
the product of my labors. He answered my inquiry in 
an indirect manner, saying that there would be no neces- 
sity for that; as I should be able to earn fifty cents per 
day, after being there awhile, and that would be more 
than sufficient, as the terms were reasonable. 

Subsequently I was introduced by a respected brother, 
the force of whose sympathy, i still feel impressed on my 
heart,- to Elder Himes, of Boston, one of the trustees of 
the institution, and the principal operator in rearing it 
up. To him L unfolded my feelings. He advised me 
by all means to enter the institution immediately, and 
greatly encouraged me in my difficulties. Agreeably to 
his advice, I entered the institution and commenced my 
studies, and my daily manual labor, which consisted of 
making shoes, which I ascertained, after having labored 
at the business six months, not to be as profitable as I 
had previously anticipated. 

After having labored at shoe making nearly a 
yeai, I felt that the sudden change from active life to 
that of a sedentary was rapidly making inroads on my 
constitution and particularly on my lungs, which hid 
not recovered the injury received. Soon I found 



OF THOMAS W. SMITH. 233 

myself twenty dollars in arrears, and not being able to 
pay, I was under the necessity of leaving the institution 
to labor at my former business, to recruit my means in 
order to renew my studies. On leaving the institution 
a letter was given me by the principal to convey to the 
pastor of the church, in which he invoked him to enlist 
his influence with the church, in order that I might be 
assisted to finish my education, in which I had made 
great proficiency. But it appears that the Rev. brother 
did not enlist his influence with the church, in my be- 
half, as there was nothing done. He did not feel so 
much engagedness for the w r orth of souls as he had done 
on a former occasion, when, in delivering one of his dis- 
courses, he exhorted the church to do her duty, to search 
out her young men who might be impressed with the 
duty of preaching and educate them for the church, as 
the church was in a suffering condition for the want of 
watchmen to sound the alarm upon the w~alls of Zion, 
stating at the time that New 7 England alone was deficient 
of five hundred ministers. 

After having labored at my business some time, I paid 
up my arrears in the institution, and w r aspreparing to re- 
turn to it, when, unfortunately, I was taken ill, with a 
disease on my lungs, by which I was confined within 
doors three months. I was again left penniless, and on 
the following Spring was obliged to go to work to recruit 
my means, with an intention of once more returning to 
the institution, but while thus engaged, I was again vio- 
lently attacked by my old disease, which came near tak- 
ing me ofTthe stage of life. About this time the infant 
institution, not receiving sufficient support, failed, and 
with it all my hopes of preaching the gospel went down, 
but principally in consequence of the feeble state of my 
health, and my poverty. 

Thus human life is a short, a checkered scene of good 
and evil, of hope and fear, of prosperity and adversity, 
and he only is wise who lays up his treasures in heaven, 
and becomes rich toward God. This is the wisdom, 
the patience, and blessing of the true children of God, 
and may the dear reader share in the blessings promised 
to the pure in heart. 

30 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 

The birth of the author ; the early death of his father ; he and his 
widowed mother are taken into her father's family ; the author 
put out to service and deprived of education ; his labors and suf- 
ferings while with Moore ; his return home ; is put out the se- 
cond time to a Mr. Miles ; his cruel treatment while there ; is 
induced by young Link to run away with him ; they lodge in a 
gravel pit ; are taken out by a company of Gipsys and carried 
to a cave in a wood ; conversation with the Gipsys, and his 
adoption by them. Page 9 

CHAPTER II. 

Departure from the cavern ; travels with the Gipsys • description of 
places ; description of a body of smugglers and their galleys; the 
condition of the common classes of societv ; the cause of smug- 
gling in England ; encamps at Rochester city ; visits to the 
Sun-tap ; cultivates an acquaintance with Willie the sailor-boy ; 
conversation with a sea-captain ; induced to go a voyage to 
North Shields ; absconds from the Gipsys ; character and habits 
of these singular people. 18 



CHAPTER III. 

First voyage to sea in the brig Venus ; arrival at Shields ; depar- 
ture ; comes to anchor near the Sands ; driven on shore by a 
French lugger ; the lugger leaves the vessel unmolested ; hap- 
py congratulations ; failure in getting the vessel off' prepara- 
tions for the gale ; discovery of her situation ; the gale com- 
mences ; the crew take refuge in the vessel's tops ; sufferings 
during the gale ; termination of the gale ; loss of the vessel ; 
taken off from the wreck; arrives in the lower hope and comes 
to an anchor ; ships on board of the brig Paragon bound to 
Spain. 28 



CHAPTER IV. 

Ships on board the Paragon ; sails from the Downs with a convoy; 
taken prisoner by a French lugger ; efforts to escape imprison- 
ment ; recapture of the vessel and our liberation; arrival at 
Spithead ; embarkation of the troops ; departure of the convoy j 
description of the scene ; ancient tradition of the moon ; arrival 
at Portugal and disembarkation of the troops ; retreat of the 
French army out of Portugal ; arrival at Cadiz, and disembark- 



CONTENTS. 235 

ation of the troops ; arriTal at Carthagena and disembarkation 
of the troops ; arrival at Alicant ; junction of the forces ; attack 
on the city and landing of the army ; description of the attack ; 
capture of the city ; retreat of the French army, pursued by the 
English; return of the army to the city ; embarkation of the 
army; departure from Alicant; arrival of the army in the 
south of Spain ; landing of the army ; defence of the enemy; at- 
tack on the French redoubts and fortification ; dislodgement of 
the French ; evacuation of the fort and retreat of the French, to 
the plain ; general engagement on the plain ; the French are re- 
pulsed and retreat ; embarkation oi the army ; the Paragon leaves 
the fleet and returns to Carthagena ; arrival in England ; the au- 
thor is induced to leave the ship ; enters on board of a ship of 
war. 36 



CHAPTER V. 

Sails in H. B. S. Hindostan ; arrives at Gibraltar ; from thence to 
Carthagena ; visits the English soldiers and fortifications ; ar- 
rives at Mahon and meets part of Sir Edward Pillow's fleet 
there ; description of a sailor's trial and horrible punishment ; 
arrives at Carthagena ; gains knowledge of the city ; descrip- 
tion of the city and its fortifica'ions ; public execution of three 
English deserters ; description of the Spanish G-ipsys ; departure 
from Carthagena ; meets the Victory 74 with her prize of 90 ; 
description of the battle ; arrival at Gibraltar ; attack of the 
French on Tariffa, Algesiras and St. Roche ; description of the 
rock of Gibraltar, its fortifications and the town ; description of 
St. Michael's cavern ; arrival on the summit of the mount; the 
Moorish Castle ; arrival at Cadiz ; description of the Carraques : 
departure from Cadiz ; short allowance of water ; the suffering 
of the author ; arrival in England ; takes in 15 American pris- 
oners ; conversation with one of the prisoners; departure from 
Spithead ; preparations for an engagement with a supposed ene- 
my ; arrival at Chatham , chosen by the captain's lady to be ed- 
ucated and is disappointed by a misrepresentation of his dispo- 
sition. 52 



CHAPTER VI. 

Departure from England ; encounters a gale in the bay of Bis- 
cay ; dangerous position off Cape Palos ; turtle soup ; water 
spouts amid the convoy ; makes the island of Malta ; descrip- 
tion of the place where St. Paul was wrecked ; enters the harbor ; 
description of Malta and its harbor; position of the city of St. 
John and the town of Valetta ; description of St.. John's church; 
John the Baptist's skull ; the embalmed bodies in the Vaults ; the 
Queen's Garden ; horrible murder ; departure from Malta ; ar- 
rival at Gibraltar ; departure for England with a convoy ; prep, 
aration for action ; chases the supposed enemy ; arrival at Ports- 
mouth. §§ 



236 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VII. 

Departure from England ; arrival off Gibraltar ; abuse of men on 
board of the Admiral's ship ; sails over to Algesiras; celebration 
of the peace of 1814 ; arrival at Portsmouth. 101 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Departure from England; becomes conversant with three foreign 
languages ; arrival at Lisbon in Portugal ; a description of the 
city of Lisbon ; a dangerous place for foreigners ; murder com- 
mitted by the Portuguese boatmen ; arrival at Port Mahon ; de- 
cription of the harbor and its entrance ; description of the city 
and Georgetown ; visited by the Spanish admiral ; information 
of Bonaparte's departure from Elba ; arrival at Malta — 
plague there ; arrival in England. 103 



CHAPTER IX. 



Escape from his majesty's ship in company with Ellis : trials at 
Post Down Hill ; Robin Hood's forest ; arrives at the Elephant 
and Castle, London; goes to Greenwich; disappointed in not find- 
ing my parents ; sufferings and trials at London ; becomes ac- 
quainted with two boys who had been paid off from a ship of 
war; after suffering privations, finally succeeds in obtaining a 
ship and is bound apprentice. Ill 



CHAPTER X. 



Departure for the island of Georgia ; arrival at the Isle of May; 
disappointed in the voyage of the ship ; comes to an anchor 
in Itoyal Sound Bay ; attacking the sea Elephants ; des- 
cription of the island ; a man lost in the icebergs ; tremendous 
falling of icebergs; floating icebergs; the Elephant season; the 
proceedings of the Elephant while on shore ; the Seal season ; 
manner of obtaining our cargo : our sufferings ; the boat 
blown into the air ; starving condition of the boat's crew ; 
arrival at the ship ; proceeds to the east end of the island ; win- 
ter's retreat to the ship ; the snow falls ; Sealing during winter ; 
sufferings of the boat's crew ; sleeping in a cavern ; sleeping on 
the ice ; Spring prosperity ; loss of the small shallop ; succeeds 
in obtaining a cargo ; departure for England ; suffering of the 
author; encounters a gale and the ship springs a leak, 400 strokes 
per hour ; arrives at Rio Janeiro; stops the leak and proceeds 
home ; description of the city and harbor of Rio Janeiro; makes 
lands-end; arrives at London. 123 



CONTENTS. 237 

CHAPTER XL 

Departure from London; near being wrecked; arrival at Georgia; 
shallops and boats leave the ship in search of elephants ; severe 
trial in rowing into the bay ; discovery of a large cavern ; the 
boats crews sleep in the cavern ; gale of wind ; loss of one 
boat; the boat's crew walk to the ship; arrival of the boat's crew ; 
landing at Devils-bight ; gale of wind ; sufferings while there ; 
return to Snow-Squall Bay ; arrival of the boats at Cooper's har^ 
bor ; the author is invited on board the shallop by his friend 
Johnson ; gale of wind blowing into the harbor ; the sloop parts 
her cable and is wrecked on the rocks ; loss of life and miracu- 
lous escape of the author; arrival of the schooner and beats at 
the ship ; a voyage of discovery to the Sandwich Islands • dis- 
appointment of the voyage ; description of the volcano; arrival 
at the ship ; the boats are dispatched to the westward ; a shallop 
is bought; arrival of the shallop to the boats; employment of the 
boats ; loss of the shallop on a rock ; escape of the author and' 
-sufferings of the crew ; arrival of the crew to the ship ; gale of 
wind ; the schooner drifts out to sea ; the author sent to her as- 
sistance ; his sufferings during the gale ; attempt to raise the 
shallop ; winter sealing round the island : the author falls into 
the sea from an iceberg and from the top of a rock ; sleeping on 
the snow, ice and rocks during the winter; state of starvation; 
is compelled to subsist on Penguin's hearts a T, .d livets: in con- 
sequence of these sufferings our skin came off in In 1 2"* flakes ; 
departure of the ship for England; touches at the Isle of Fer- 
mando norona ; arrival at London ; poverty of the author. 

139 

CHAPTER XII. 

Departure from London in the ship Admiral, Coalpoise; touches at 
St. Jago ; arrival at South Georgia ; the ship is secured in the 
harbor ; commences operations ; successful enterprize : visited 
by an iceberg, which drifted on the ship's anchor ; loss of the 
ship and part of her cargo ; arrival of the author in London. 

155 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Departure of the Hetty ; touches at Bonavista ; narrow escape of 
being washed overboard ; arrival at Falkland islands; enter 
Barclay's Sound ; arrival at South Shetland ; proceed along the 
coast ; come to anchor and narrowly escape being lost ; search 
after seal and discover a ship's harbor, in an opposite island; 
arrival at the harbor and meet several vessels there ; the shore 
lined with seals ; landing of the boats' crews to kill seals ; pre- 
vented from killing them by other ships' crews ; search for a 
new sealing ground ; strange crews attempt a landing ; they 
are prevented ; they walk overland and succeed in killing 8000 
seals , detected and driven off the beach ; near escape of being 
drowned ; seized by a large sea lion ; departure for England ; 
arrival at London ; the owners defraud the crew , law-suit with 
the owners. 157 



2*'J8 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIV. 



Departure from London ; arrives at Cape Horn ; sails by Juan 
Fernandez j arrives off of Arica ; meets with success ; arrives 
at Payta ; departure from Payta ; a large school of whales ; the 
author in the whale'b mouth ; succeeds in killing the whale, 
which makes 85 barrels of oil ; attacks another school ; boat is 
stove ; the whale takes off the cooper of the ship on her back ; 
arrival at the Gallipagos ; takes 300 terrapins ; sails for the wes- 
tern ground ; sails for Chili ; touches at Easter isle ; description 
or the natives, the island and its productions ; arrives at Salango 
bay; disturbance in the ship; arrival at the Gallipagos; des- 
cription of the island ; sufferings and dangers attending terrapin- 
ning; the author is compelled to drink terrapins blood; arrival at 
Payta ; desertion of an apprentice ; the crew is tried by the cap- 
tain of the port ; the crew honorably acquitted by the captain of 
the port ; the crew put in prison ; sufferings and losses of the 
author; sails for Guayaquil; arrives and ships on board the 
Louiza ; the author is attacked by a Bolivian dragoon ; sails with 
the Colombian expedition for Upper Peru ; description of the city 
and the surrounding country; arrival of the expedition at Arica; 
disembarkation of the army for the interior ; retreat of the royal 
army ; division of the Colombian army ; the royalists attack the 
Colombians ; defeat of the Colombians ; disastrous retreat of the 
Colombians into the ship ; arrival of the disastrous expedition at 
Callao ; the author leaves his ship and ships on board the Perse- 
verance ; arrives at Panama ; goes to Truxillo ; taken by the 
pirates , lady Mosby and part of the crew are put into a small 
boat at a distance from the land without the means to gain the 
shore; original design of the pirates; the author takes passage 
to Guayaquil ; the pirates frustrated in their original design; 
they scuttle the vessel, get into the woods and are detected ; re- 
covery of the Perseverance ; she arrives at Guayaquil ; execu- 
tion of the pirates ; the author ships on board of the Per- 
severance and proceeds on a smuggling voyage ; travels to 
the city of Lima; capture of Lima and Callao ; arrival 
of the Peruvian squadron at Callao ; the author is pressed 
by the Spaniards and put on board of the Pasualla brig of 
war ; the Peruvian attacks the Spanish ships at Cailao ; ase- 
vere battle is fought; ships onboard of a Spanish privateer ; 
takes three prizes and escapes being taken by the Peruvi- 
an frigate ; arrival of a Spanish squadron at Callao from 
Spain ; battle off Callao ; return of the squadron to Callao ; the 
author leaves the war brig, and witnesses a severe battle between 
Lima and Callao ; ships on board of the Robert of London ; the 
defence of Callao ; the siege of Callao ; the capitulation of Cal- 
lao ; description of the city of Lima ; departure for England; 
arrival at Liverpool ; has a severe fever ; is robbed while his 
life is despaired of. 164 



CONTENTS. 239 

CHAPTER XV. vfi 



Leaves London ; arrival at New Zealand, and description of the 
natives ; Cannibalism of the New Zealanders ; cruises off the 
Navigator isles ; description of the natives ; description of the 
Duke of Clarence and York's isles ; two races of the natives ; 
trading with the natives ; cruises off the King's Mill Group; crui- 
ses off Mathew's isle ; warlike and hideous appearance of the 
natives ; design to take the ship ; cruise off the New Hebrides ; 
appearance of Santa Cruz ; lands on a volcanic isle ; cruises off 
Solomon's i^le ; dangerous attack on a canoe ; loss of life ; ten 
war canoes come off to attack the ship ; raises a school of whales; 
the Alfred's boats and ours are attacked by two fleets of canoes ; 
loss of her captain and second mate ; the natives repulsed by our 
boats and two boats stove ; the author stands on the whale's 
head ; the whale takes the author's boat off while the crew are 
in the water hanging on to her • cruises off Isabel isle ; attempt 
of the natives to take the John Bull ; discovery of a deep bay ; 
the ship is attacked by two or three thousand natives ; defence 
of the ship and slaughter of the natives ; arrival at Guana isle ; 
description of the natives and manner of living ; sails by the 
Ladrone isles ; Volcano ; arrives at Japan ; cruises along the 
coast; visited by Japanese fishing boats , boarded by Japanese 
junks ; departure from the Japan seas ; a Lascar escapes from 
the natives and gains the ship ; the loss of his vessel and his 
captivity ; the crew eaten by the natives ; mode of roasting their 
victims ; arrives at the New Hebrides ; the natives sieze two of 
the ship's crew ; departure of the ship and the loss of two men ; 
colored men with yellow hair ; discovery of the island where the 
French ship L'Empereur was wrecked ; arrival at the isle of 
Rotemah ; description of the natives ; three men desert the ship 
and remain on the island ; arrival at New Zealand ; war of two 
powerful tribes ; war dances and temporary peace ; invasion and 
landing of the Whorowrarians Adth their war canoes ; prepara- 
tions for defence by the Kivakivians ; battle of Crorica ; landing 
of the missionaries in-the midst of the battle ; their exposure, 
interposition, and fearless resolution to appease the natives ; 
defeat of the Whorowrarians ; landing of the author ; departure 
of the Kivakivians and burning of their town ; the Wnorowrari 
ans reinforce their tribe; again invade the Kivakivians with 100 
war canoes carrying 1,500 men ; their war dances on approach- 
ing each other ; the Whorwrarians are dismayed and dare not 
attack them ; interposition of the missionaries and sea eaptains. 

189 



CHAPTER XVI. j^TK 

Departure from London ; unfavorable passage ; the vessel springs 
a leak 500 strokes per hour ; arrival at Delagoa bay ; trading 
with the natives ; the crew take the Delagoa fever ; gale of wind; 
exposure of the boats to the gale ; loss of one boat and safety of 
the other ; continuation of the gale ; loss of the vessel on the 
sandy coast ; subsidence of the gale; landing of the boat's crew ; 



240 CONTENTS. 

travels and arrives at the wreck ; death of the captain and sev- 
eral of the crew ; t e property is taken out of the vessel and put 
in a tent ; the tent surrounded by hundreds of armed natives, 
who keep pillaging its contents ; outrageousness of the natives ; 
the natives seize the property ; retreat from the tent to the Mar- 
tha's wreck ; the author is attacked by the fever ; continuation 
and sufferings on the wreck ; deliverance from thej&j^:; vis- 
ited by the king; ornaments of the king and his nob p- ships 
on board the Bremen ; whaling and sufferings in theory ; Por- 
tuguese colony and their progress in civilization ; departure of 
the ship ; arrives on her cruising grounds ; a calamity overtakes 
the author which nearly terminates his existence ; unreasonable 
and dangerous requisitions of duty by the captain ; unparalleled 
sufferings of the author; recovery of his health; the author's 
mind is called to attend to the future prosperity of his soul ; ar- 
rival at St. Helena ; arrival and sufferings in New Bedford ; de- 
prived of his just dues ; manner of killing whales; convinced of 
wrong religious views ; experiences religion; call to preach the 
gospel ; trials of his mind ; unfolds the state of his mind to sev- 
eral of the brethren; introductionto Elder Himes ; encourage- 
ment ; enters the institution at Beverly to study for the minis- 
try ; falls in arrears and is compelled through poverty to relin- 
quish his studies ; attempts to resume his studies ; he is taken 
ill with a lung fever ; cessation of the institution. 



